1,000 Indian Recipes (319 page)

1.
Prepare the dessert masala. Place the milk and ricotta cheese in a large microwave-safe bowl and, with an electric mixer or whisk, mix well. Place in the microwave and cook on high power 30 to 45 minutes, stopping first after 15 minutes, and then every 5 to 7 minutes, to stir, scrape the sides of the bowl, and mix everything together. Do this until you are left with about 2 cups of liquid. Every time you stop to stir, a thin skin will have formed on the surface; break it, but carefully, to avoid giving yourself a steam burn.

2.
Mix in the sugar, cardamom seeds, and dessert masala, then cook in the microwave on high another 5 minutes.

3.
Transfer to a serving dish, let cool, then mix in the rose essence. Garnish with the dessert masala and refrigerate at least 4 hours until chilled. Serve cold.

Creamy Milk Pudding with Almonds and Saffron

Kesari Rabdi

Makes 4 to 6 servings

This dish, called
kesarirabdi
, cooks faster than milk
rabdi
because you start with half-and-half, which is much thicker than milk to begin with. The higher fat content, though worrisome for some in today's health-conscious world, contributes tremendously and imparts a richer flavor.

¹
⁄
₂
cup shelled raw almonds

¹
⁄
₃
teaspoon saffron threads

¹
⁄
₄
cup whole milk

1 quart half-and-half

¹
⁄
₄
cup sugar, or to taste

¹
⁄
₄
teaspoon ground green cardamom seeds

1 to 2 drops rose essence

1.
In a bowl, soak the almonds in water to cover by 2 inches. Drain and peel the almonds and, in a blender or a food processor, coarsely grind them. Meanwhile, in another bowl, soak the saffron threads in the milk about 30 minutes.

2.
Place the half-and-half in a large microwave-safe bowl and cook on high power 25 to 30 minutes, stopping to stir after the first 10 minutes, then every 5 minutes, until the half-and-half is reduced by at least half. Every time you stop to stir, a thin skin will have formed on the surface; break it, but carefully, to avoid giving yourself a steam burn.

3.
Mix in the sugar, ground almonds, and saffron-infused milk (reserving the saffron threads for garnish) and cook on high power another 3 to 5 minutes.

4.
Transfer to a serving bowl, mix in the cardamom seeds and rose essence, and cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally while it cools. Refrigerate at least 4 hours and serve chilled. If the pudding is thicker than you wish, add more half-and-half or milk until you get the consistency you desire. Scatter the reserved saffron threads as a garnish and serve.

Variation:
To give this rabdi another authentic touch, mix in 1 cup part-skim ricotta cheese after the first 10 minutes. Adjust the sugar before serving.

Creamy Milk Pudding with Summer Fruits

Phallon vaali Rabdi

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Make this dessert with a mixture of fruits, as in this recipe, or only with mangoes, as they do in India, where mangoes are in abundance and are beloved. To add more interest to the pudding, grill 1- to 1
¹
⁄
₂
-inch chunks or slices of ripe mangoes, ripe peaches, nectarines, or pineapples until golden and lightly caramelized, then cool and mix into the
rabdi
(thickened milk pudding).

2 tablespoons
Dessert Masala

2 cups (1 recipe)
Creamy Milk Pudding with Almonds and Saffron

2 large ripe mangoes

2 large ripe peaches or nectarines, cut into
³
⁄
₄
-inch pieces

1 cup mixed berries, such as blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and boysenberries

Prepare the dessert masala. Then prepare the milk pudding. With a vegetable peeler, peel the mangoes and cut the fruit around the center seed into
³
⁄
₄
-inch pieces. Place in a serving bowl and mix in all the remaining fruit. Add the pudding and mix well. Sprinkle the dessert masala on top and serve.

Custards and Mousses

Indians make a kind of dessert that is similar to what Americans think of as a custard or mousse. But, unlike Western custards, which use eggs and gelatin as thickening agents, Indian custards are made with whole grains and milk or yogurt (the exception being caramel custard, which comes from the Anglo-Indian tradition).

It goes without saying that a very different set of flavors and garnishes are to be expected in Indian custards and mousses, as well—in particular cardamom, saffron, and rose water along with pistachios, cashews, and almonds. And don't forget the most important, tell-tale Indian ingredient:
verk
, or pure silver leaves.

Basmati Rice Custard

Chaval ki Firni

Makes 4 to 6 servings

The White House served this classic custard from north India when then Prime Minister Rajiv and his wife, Sonia Gandhi, visited the United States in the 1980s. The custard is made with
basmati
rice, as opposed to eggs, and is traditionally presented in huge terra cotta bowls, or as individual servings in small terra cotta cups, garnished lavishly with silver leaves, colorful nuts, and saffron. A well-made
firni
will bring exotic flavors to any table.

1 cup basmati rice, sorted and washed in 3 to 4 changes of water

1
¹
⁄
₄
cups +
¹
⁄
₂
gallon whole milk

¹
⁄
₃
teaspoon saffron threads

2 tablespoons
Dessert Masala

³
⁄
₄
cup sugar

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon ground green cardamom seeds

2 drops rose essence

4 to 6 (4-inch) squares silver leaves (optional)

1.
Soak the rice overnight in water to cover by 2 inches. Drain and place in a blender (not a food processor) along with 1 cup milk and blend, about 1 minute. The mixture will still appear grainy. Reserve. In a small bowl, soak the saffron threads in
¹
⁄
₄
cup milk about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the dessert masala.

2.
Place
¹
⁄
₂
gallon milk in a large, heavy wok or saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring and scraping the bottom and sides of the wok often, until the milk has slightly thickened, 5 to 7 minutes.

3.
Add the blended rice to the simmering milk in a slow, steady stream, stirring constantly to prevent the formation of lumps. (If any lumps develop, let cool and mix again in the blender until smooth. Then return everything to the pan.) Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring and scraping the bottom and sides of the wok constantly, until the custard is thick and creamy, about 5 minutes.

4.
Add the sugar and cardamom seeds, reduce the heat to low, and cook another 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Remove from the heat, add the rose essence, and bring to room temperature, either uncovered (stir often to prevent a skin from forming) or covered with plastic wrap. Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with silver leaves and dessert masala. Sprinkle with the saffron threads and pour the saffron-infused milk over the top. Refrigerate at least 4 hours and serve chilled.

Corn Custard

Makki ki Firni

Makes 4 to 6 servings

My guests are always surprised to find humble corn kernels at the base of a custard dessert. It is an age-old Indian way of eating corn, and the cooking method extracts the corn essence out of each kernel. The resulting custard is very delicate, smooth and creamy, but with just enough texture to give character to each mouthful.

¹
⁄
₄
cup
Dessert Masala

1
¹
⁄
₂
cups fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels

2 cups whole milk

¹
⁄
₂
cup condensed milk

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon ground green cardamom seeds

1.
Prepare the dessert masala. Then place the corn kernels and 1 cup milk in a blender or a food processor and process until the mixture is as smooth as possible, about 1 minute.

2.
Transfer to a bowl and mix in the remaining 1 cup milk. Pass the mixture through a food mill or a fine-mesh strainer lined with muslin (not cheesecloth, because its weave is too loose). Squeeze out all the juices, then discard whatever remains in the muslin.

3.
Transfer to a large, heavy wok or saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring and scraping the bottom and sides of the wok often, until slightly thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Mix in the condensed milk and cardamom seeds and continue to cook, stirring, until thick and creamy, 7 to 10 minutes.

4.
Transfer to a serving bowl and mix in most of the dessert masala, reserving some for garnish. Serve warm, or refrigerate at least 4 hours, sprinkle the reserved dessert masala on top, and serve chilled.

Pressure-Cooked Caramel Custard