1.
Roast the tomatoes and onions on the grill until charred evenly. Remove them from the grill and chop them. In a small pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté until lightly browned. Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, add the lemon juice, bay leaves, pickled chiles, juice, olives, capers, sugar, cinnamon, and cloves and simmer until thickened. Season with salt and pepper and remove the bay leaves.
2.
Place the fish on a serving platter and pour most of the sauce over it. At the table, carve the fish and serve it with some sauce spooned over each portion. Garnish with the parsley. Serve with heated corn tortillas and the additional sauce on the table.
Cuban Two-Chile Stuffed Grouper with Creole Sofrito
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
The stuffing is mild, but watch out for the Creole Sofrito. Yes, there is a debate about the presence of chiles in traditional Cuban food, but since I spice up everything as a matter of course, this recipe is how I would prepare Cuban seafood if I owned a restaurant (shudder) in, say, Santa Fe or Austin. Serve with avocado and mango salad, black beans and rice, and coconut flan.
For the Two-Chile Stuffing:
1 tablespoon (15 mL) olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 small onion, peeled, cut in slivers, and separated
4 cubanelle chiles, stems and seeds removed, cut into strips (or substitute yellow wax hot peppers)
2 rocotillo chiles, stems and seeds removed, minced (or substitute
½ habanero chile)
½ cup (118 mL) fresh bread crumbs
2 tablespoons (30 mL) lemon juice
1 tablespoon (15 mL) distilled white vinegar
½ cup (118 mL) chopped green olives
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried thyme
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) grated nutmeg
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1.
In a small pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic, onion, and chiles and sauté until softened. Transfer the sautéed mixture to a bowl, add the remaining ingredients, and mix well.
For the Grouper:
1 (3-pound [1.36 kg]) grouper, snapper, or other favorite fish, even large-
mouth bass, cleaned
Olive oil for basting
Fresh parsley for garnish
1.
Stuff the cavity of the fish loosely with the stuffing, and secure the fish shut with toothpicks. Brush the fish with olive oil, place in a hinged grill basket, and grill over a medium fire for about 15 minutes, turning occasionally. The fish is done when it flakes easily or reaches 135°F (60°C) in its thickest part.
For the Creole Sofrito:
1 small onion, peeled, cut in rings, and separated
½ small green bell pepper, cut in strips
½ small red bell pepper, cut in strips
1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced habanero chiles
2 tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil
1 tomato, peeled and chopped
3 tablespoons (45 mL) dry sherry
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) dried thyme
Salt, to taste
1.
In a saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, peppers, and chile and sauté until the onion is soft, about 3 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer until it forms a sauce, about 10 to 15 minutes.
2.
Serve the fish with the stuffing on the side, topped with the sofrito and garnished with the fresh parsley.
Spicy Grilled Coconut Shrimp Kebabs with Jalapeño-Cilantro Couscous
Yield: 4 servings
Heat Scale: Medium
A staple in North Africa, couscous is wheat in granular form that is usually steamed. It is often combined with meats or vegetables, and of course we’ve added chiles to it. The marinade is quite sweet, but it works well with the shrimp. This is a re-creation of a dish Nancy Gerlach was served in the British Virgin Islands. Serve with a salad of star fruit, avocado, and grapefruit and a cooling Key lime sorbet for dessert.
For the Sweet-Hot Coconut Marinade:
¼ cup (59 mL) brown sugar
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground habanero chile
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 teaspoons (10 mL) chopped fresh thyme (or substitute ½ teaspoon [2.5 mL] dried)
2 tablespoons (30 mL) honey
¼ cup (59 mL) coconut milk
3 tablespoons (45 mL) vegetable oil
1 tablespoon (15 mL) lime juice (fresh preferred)
2 dozen medium shrimp, shelled and deveined, tails on
1.
In a bowl, combine the brown sugar, chile, garlic, thyme, honey, and coconut milk and mix well. Slowly whisk the oil into the marinade. Place the shrimp in a separate bowl and pour the lime juice and the marinade over them, coating them well. Cover and marinate the shrimp for 1 hour at room temperature.
For the Jalapeño-Cilantro Couscous:
1 tablespoon (15 mL) vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 shallots, peeled and chopped
1 jalapeño chile, stem and seeds removed, minced
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried thyme
2 cups (473 mL) chicken broth
1 cup (236 mL) couscous
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon (15 mL) chopped chives
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1.
In a sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic, shallots, and jalapeño and sauté until soft. Stir in the thyme and remove the pan from the heat. In a saucepan, bring the chicken broth to a boil. Put the couscous in a bowl and pour the chicken broth over it. Cover the bowl and let sit for 15 minutes. Drain off any excess liquid and fluff the couscous with a fork. Add the shallot mixture, cilantro, and chives and toss to mix well. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.
For the Kebabs:
1 green or red bell pepper, stem and seeds removed, cut in wedges
1 small onion, peeled, cut into wedges and separated
3-4 jalapeño chiles, stems and seeds removed, cut in slivers
8 cherry tomatoes
1.
Remove the shrimp from the marinade. Thread the shrimp onto skewers alternating with the vegetables. Grill the kebabs over a medium fire, basting frequently with the marinade and turning occasionally, until done, about 6 to 8 minutes.
2.
Spoon the couscous onto a warm serving platter. Lay the kebabs over the couscous and serve.
Smoked Oysters with Ancho Chile Sauce
Yield: 2 dozen
Heat Scale: Medium
This recipe requires hot smoke, and a lot of it, for a short period of time. Instead of 200°F (100°C) smoke from your smoker or grill, try for about 400°F (200°C). Oysters can also be grilled by placing them on the grill over high heat until the shells open, about 6 to 10 minutes.
24 large oysters
½ cup (118 mL) clam juice
3 tablespoons (45 mL) vegetable oil, divided
Juice of 1 lime plus 1 tablespoon (15 mL), divided
1 ancho chile, stems and seeds removed
1 chipotle chile in adobo sauce
3 tablespoons tomato sauce
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped onions
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons (30 mL) vinegar
⅛ teaspoon (.6 mL) ground allspice
1 pinch ground cloves
1 tablespoon (15 mL) vegetable oil
Chopped cilantro for garnish
1.
Shuck the oysters, reserving the liquid. In a bowl, combine ½ cup (118 mL) of the reserved oyster liquid, the clam juice, 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of the vegetable oil, and the juice of 1 lime. Place the oysters in a shallow pan and pour the marinade over them. Marinate the oysters for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Drain the oysters and return them to the refrigerator until ready to use.
2.
Soak the ancho chile in hot water for 20 to 30 minutes until soft, then drain. In a blender or food processor, combine the soaked ancho chile, chipotle in adobo, tomato sauce, onions, garlic, and vinegar purée until smooth. Add a little water if necessary. Add the allspice and cloves and purée until smooth. In a saucepan, heat the remaining oil over medium heat. Add the sauce and sauté until almost dry, about 15 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat and stir in the lime juice and cilantro.
3.
Build a hot fire in the smoker or grill and add hickory or other hardwood chips or chunks, as you will need a lot of smoke.
4.
Put ½ to 1 teaspoon (2.5 to 5 mL) sauce on each oyster. Set the oysters on the grill, close the cover, and smoke for 10 minutes
5.
Serve immediately with any remaining sauce on the side. Oysters remaining on the grill too long will overcook.
TEN
Powerful Poultry
If any mass-produced food needs chiles, it’s chicken. Certain meats, like an aged fillet mignon, can be grilled as is with no rub, marinade, or finishing sauce, and they will be superb. But bland chicken and other poultry need some help. It needs to be marinated, spiced up, combined with other ingredients, and otherwise altered. Duck is perhaps the most flavorful bird for the poultry consumer, but for some reason it is rarely used.
Please note that the recipes in this chapter work well with all types of birds, so you can interchange all the poultry, but take into consideration the size of birds or pieces of birds that you are working with. Obviously, a 20-pound (9 kg) turkey will take longer to cook than a 3-pound (1.5 kg) chicken.
Some birds have more fat than others, so it is important to grill poultry slowly and watch it carefully so that the fatty skin doesn’t flare up and burn. The food police will order you to remove all the skin from poultry before cooking it, but I buck that trend because of one simple reason: As bland as chicken is, once it’s treated with the right marinade and sauces and cooked correctly, few things in the world taste better than a perfect, crispy piece of chicken skin. My mom, Barbara, used to insist on eating only the skin of grilled chicken—provided that my father didn’t burn it.
There has been a lot of interest lately in specialty birds such as ostrich, emu, and guinea hen. They are very lean and need marinades and sauces to make them palatable. They are also rather expensive when you can find them. I like them, but I doubt that they will become overwhelmingly popular
Pollo al Ajo Estilo Peruano (Peruvian Garlic Chicken)
Yield: 6 servings
Heat Scale: Hot
Garlic, a member of the onion family, is one of the oldest vegetables used by mankind. There are records of garlic being consumed by the workers who built the pyramids. When this allium was transferred to the New World, it was eagerly added to dishes such as this one. Serve this garlic chicken garnished with boiled potatoes and topped with a dollop of yogurt.
½ cup (118 mL) vegetable oil
3 onions, peeled and chopped
6 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
4 rocoto chiles, stems and seeds removed, minced (or substitute jalapeños)
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon (15 mL) cumin seeds, crushed
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried basil
2 cups (473 mL) unsalted roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
½ cup (118 mL) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 (3½-4 pound [1.6-1.8 kg]) chicken, poached, meat removed from the bones and chopped
¾ cup (177 mL) low-fat plain yogurt, at room temperature
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Boiled potatoes for garnish
1.
In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until the onion is soft. Add the chiles, cinnamon, cumin, basil, peanuts, cheese, and chicken meat to the saucepan and fold gently. Cook to heat through.
2.
Two or three minutes before serving, stir in the yogurt and correct the seasonings. Serve with the boiled potatoes.
Aji de Gallina (Piquant Creamed Hen)
Yield: 6 servings
Heat Scale: Hot
Here’s another version of Peruvian chicken, in a cheese sauce spiced with hot aji chiles. It is served over sliced boiled potatoes and garnished with hard-boiled eggs.
1 carrot, peeled and sliced
2 onions, peeled; one sliced, one minced
1 (4-pound [1.82 kg]) chicken, quartered
½ loaf white bread, crust removed
1 (12-ounce [336 mL]) can evaporated milk
¼ cup (59 mL) vegetable oil
8 fresh aji chiles, stems and seeds removed, puréed in a blender (or substi-
tute yellow wax hot or red jalapeños)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 cup (236 mL) grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup (59 mL) chopped walnuts
6 to 8 potatoes, boiled in their skins until tender, peeled, and sliced
3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and halved
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1.
Bring 1 quart (.95 L) salted water to a boil in a large pot. Add the carrot, sliced onion, and chicken. When the chicken is poached (about 45 minutes), remove it from the water, let it cool, and shred it into small strips. Strain the broth into a bowl. Reserve the carrot and onion. Reserve 3 cups (708 mL) of the broth.
2.
Break the bread into pieces and soak them in the milk. In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the minced onion, puréed chiles, and garlic and sauté for a few minutes. Add the reserved broth, soggy bread, chicken, cheese, walnuts, and the reserved carrot and onion. Add pepper to taste. Cook, stirring, over medium heat for about 20 minutes, until thick. Place the potatoes on serving plates and pour the chicken sauce over them. Garnish with the hard-boiled egg halves.
Chicken Cazuela
Yield: 10-12 servings
Heat Scale: Mild
This Andean chicken recipe features
Capsicum pubescens
, the hairy-leafed chile pepper, better known as the rocoto. Rocotos are typically apple shaped, and they are said to be hot enough to wake the dead. Substitute jalapeños, as they have a similar thick wall.
1 (3-4 pound [1.36-1.82 kg]) chicken
1 tomato, chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried basil
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried marjoram
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) dried oregano
10 cups (2.36 L) water
1 cup (236 mL) vegetable oil
1 clove garlic, peeled
½ cup (118 mL) chopped onions
½ cup (118 mL) diced carrots
½ cup (118 mL) diced leeks
½ cup (118 mL) thinly sliced fresh string beans
½ cup (118 mL) fresh peas
½ cup (118 mL) diced celery
½ cup (118 mL) shredded cabbage
2 bay leaves
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) freshly ground black pepper
1 rocoto chile, stem and seeds removed, grated (or substitute jalapeño)
Salt, to taste
Sliced oranges for garnish