Americana (27 page)

“Where the fuck have all the flowers gone,” he sang, hurrying the words to make them fit.

Pike turned onto a side road and eventually pulled into an A&P parking lot, fitting the camper between two station wagons waiting to be gorged. We entered by the great glass omniscient door, which knew we were coming and opened of itself. Brand and I peeled off from the others and followed a dark attractive woman down a side aisle to the peaches and plums. Her fingers skipped among the peaches, testing and prodding, and we moved alongside, our cart nudging her cart.

“Peaches,” Brand said.

She gave us no sign.

“Look at the word come out of my mouth all moist and fuzzy. Peaches. It’s the perfect word for the perfect thing. Now we’re all standing here. If we all watch my lips, we’ll all see it come out. Peaches. What do you think, miss, if that’s your name. Should we pick up a pound or two? We’re just a couple of good-looking guys from the East Coast, especially him. Listen, I’ve got some grass back at the plastic bitch.”

She moved over to the plums and we followed. She was tall and her hips swung terrifically behind the shopping cart.

“Come on back to the truck with us and let loose for a while. We’ll eat plums and smoke dope. I’m writing a novel using the direct interior monologue technique.”

She looked around for a rescuer and I studied the plum in her fine Mediterranean hand. She was the kind of woman you imagine meeting in Port Said, older, wiser than you, pigmented of earth and made of many bloods, amused at your blond boyish Yankee ways, dispensing shattering truth in short sentences, and here she was, incredibly, among the plums of Middle America.

“Air is not invisible,” Brand said.

She soon vanished. We put our cart into reverse. The shelves were long and brilliant, and I thought of my father. This was his spangled ark, cans of dessert-whip with squiggly pricklike tops, mythology and thunderbolts, the green giant’s loins, buckets of power and white beyond white, trauma in the rectangles of evangelistic writ. (You have to move the merch off the shelves.) A baby sat in a grocery cart, crying; his mother gave him a stalk of celery to play with and he was content. “Who loves mommy,” she said. “Say who loves her, stinky-pants. Baby loves mommy. Yes, baby loves mommy. Say it, stinky-pants. Baby loves mommy. Yes, yes, yes.” Women put their heads into monstrous freezers and came out alive. Checkout girls moved their hips against the cash registers. An old lady fell down.

In time we came to a town called Fort Curtis. I was alone up front, driving slowly, wearing my green shades and a pair
of old khaki trousers with huge back pockets that might have been designed to conceal rope, flashlights and barbwire cutters. It was late afternoon, an unseasonably warm day, bug juice all over the windshield, an idle insect hum coming from the tall grass by the river. The river might have been the Wabash or the Ohio or the Mississippi for all I knew. I drove slowly through the town’s shady dead streets. Brick and frame houses stood under large elms. The porches had carved posts. There were lilac bushes in the gardens, moss at the base of telephone poles and a bandstand in the park at the edge of town. I drove around a little longer and then stopped in front of a three-story white frame hotel. We needed baths.

There were four elderly people sitting in the lobby, turning the pages of identical magazines. I got a room with a bath and then went back out to the camper. Brand and Sullivan were asleep on cots. Pike was sitting at the table in his World War I side-button shorts, drinking bourbon and smelling his armpits. I woke up Sullivan. She put some things into an overnight bag and went into the hotel. I waited ten minutes and went up to the room. As I reached for the doorknob I heard water running in the tub. The door was open. Some of her clothes were on the bed. I studied the plain brown robe, an item suitable for Lenten mortification. The room was painted a surly municipal green. Dust, paper clips and scraps of plaster had been swept into a corner. There was no TV set. The fabric on the armchair was thinning out. I heard Sullivan sink into the tub.

“Those dear old things in the lobby,” she said. “What’s the name of this place—the Menopause Hilton?”

“How did you know I was here?”

“My secret will die with me, Igor.”

“Listen,” I said. “When you wash your legs, do you lift one leg way up out of the water and sort of scrub it slowly and sensually like the models in TV commercials?”

“No.”

“Can I come in and watch?”

“No, she said.”

“Why not? We’re adults.”

“Exactly.”

“If I promise to keep one hand over my eyes, can I come in and scrub your back?”

“Where are you sitting?”

“On the bed.”

“See if you can find my cigarettes.”

“They’re not here,” I said. “Want me to go down and get them?”

“Don’t bother.”

I tossed the cigarettes and matches under the bed.

“Sully, would you mind if we stayed around this town for a couple of days?”

“For your movie?”

“I’ll look around this evening and then decide.”

“What’s so special about this place?”

“It seems old and simple and dull.”

“I don’t mind. Have you asked the others?”

“I think they’ll go along with it. Everybody’s pretty exhausted. We can use a few days of rest.”

“Where are we anyway?” she said.

“It could be Indiana. But it could be Illinois or Kentucky. I’m not sure.”

“I guess it doesn’t matter. I don’t know why I ask, but what’s west of here?”

“Iowa, I think. Although maybe Iowa is further north. I’m trying to remember what’s below Iowa.”

“Never mind. It doesn’t matter. I don’t know why I asked.”

I sat on the bed listening to the room tone, or general background noise, and filming in my mind a line of light and shade across the armchair. The room seemed beyond time, beyond present tense at any rate, in tone, in appearance, in the very quality of its light and air. I thought of it as the kind of room which, years before, or decades, had little purpose but to await the hardware salesman and his whisky flings.
Most likely the room had looked as shabby then as it did now. Maybe that was the dream in those days, a touch of cluttered lust, long gone now, for a new image had awakened our instincts, brides and bawds and gunmen of the West, an image to fit our ascetic scheme, the rise of the low motel, neat and clean at ground zero, electronic rabbit at the end of the bed. An arm and breast hung from the open door of the bathroom. I picked her robe off the bed and tossed it toward her wrist. The room’s mood was dead. It was thirty years or more dead and gone.

That evening I got out my camera and went for a walk. It was a 16mm Canon Scoopic, modified to work as a sync rig with my tape recorder, a late-model Nagra. The camera didn’t have an interchangeable lens but it was light, easy to handle and went to work in a hurry. Originally all I had wanted to do on the trip west was shoot some simple film, the white clapboard faces of Mennonite farmers, the spare Kansans in their churchgoing clothes. But now my plans were a bit more ambitious, scaring me somewhat, at least in their unedited form. I clutched the handgrip, rested the camera on my right shoulder and walked through the quiet streets. Soon a small crowd was following me.

Remarkably the bench wasn’t green. It was light blue and it faced the yellow bandstand. The playground area, off to the side, was even more cheery in color, perhaps to counterbalance the stark forbidding nature of much of the apparatus. I sat on the bench and watched a small girl sail a book of matches in a puddle below the water fountain. I waited and slowly they approached, six welcomers in two loosely joined teams of three. First came an old man and two old ladies; then a teen-age boy leading two men who looked as though they might have shared a watch or two on a tin can off Guadal (in the Warner Brothers forties) and talked about the body-and-fender shop they would open when they got back to the States. Of course it was the camera they were interested in, that postlinear conversation piece, and they gathered around me in stages, introducing themselves, asking questions, being exceedingly friendly, secretly preparing their outrage for the moment of my incivility. But I remained well-mannered throughout, a guest in sacred places.

The old man was Mr. Hutchins, who said he liked to be called either Mr. H or Hutch, the latter name being favored
by his Florida cronies. The women were his wife and his sister, Flora and Veejean, and they appeared to be in their mid-sixties, beautiful, smiling and silent, a pair of lace curtains fixed in sunlight. Hutch had once owned an Argus that he’d sent away for. He said the whole works only cost him one hundred fifty dollars—camera, projector, tripod screen, camera case, roll of film. His footage of the Everglades had been shown to a packed house in the basement of the Methodist Church.

The other men were Glenn Yost and Owney Pine and the boy was Glenn Yost Jr., who preferred to be called Bud. It turned out that each group knew the other only by sight, living in different ends of town, having been collected here, as it were, by the sight of the camera, the boy’s curiosity equal to the old man’s.

“How much the camera cost?” Bud said.

“Twelve hundred and change.”

That was good for a whistle from Mr. H.

“I might get a super 8 this summer,” the boy said. “I’m hoping the Bolex 155. We have a club at school. So far I haven’t done much because the equipment they have is pretty limited. But if I can get a Bolex, I’d go right out of my mind. What kind of diopter range that thing give you?”

His father stood behind him, reflective and gloomy, left eye jumping, head tilted far to one side, almost resting on his shoulder, and I was reminded of the ancient relief pitcher Hoyt Wilhelm standing on the mound waiting for the sign to be given, fingers knuckling along the seams of the ball, men on first and third and none out, nobody caring anywhere in the world. There was a young man with a guitar sitting on the edge of the bandstand.

Mr. Hutchins described himself, in no particular context, as a stickler for accuracy. He and the ladies said goodnight then, time to catch Bob Hope on TV, and we watched them walk past a huge skeletal flywheel and out into the street. Bud and I tried to top each other and intimidate the two older
men with all sorts of insane technical data. Owney Pine finally put one of his fat white arms around the boy’s head, muffling him in jest and holding him that way for a minute or so, a quality of mutual affection informing the little scene as the man quietly jostled and bumped, barely aware of the struggling boy, who, at an overgrown fifteen or sixteen, could not have been easy to hold.

“Plan to be here awhile?” Glenn said.

“A few days maybe. My camera seems interested in this place.”

“Are you one of those people from the mass media?” Owney said, still keeping Bud from wriggling out.

“I’m an independent filmmaker. I’m scouting locales at the moment. How’d you like to be in the movies?”

“Sheee.”

“You think about it,” I said.

Bud cut in then with another question and Owney released him. We talked a bit longer. The young man eased down off the bandstand and headed toward us. He carried the guitar over his shoulder and dragged a knapsack along the ground behind him. He seemed a skinny broken kid in decomposing clothes, enormously happy about something. The others backed off slightly at his approach—an ethnologic retreat really, one that I sensed rather than actually witnessed.

“Hey, what’s that? That an 8 or 16?”

“It’s a Scoopic 16. It’s basically a news camera.”

“I’m walking to California,” he said.

He stood there, smiling, in ankle-high basketball sneakers. Glenn Yost said he and Bud had better be getting on home to have a look at the bloodworms. He said the boy dug up worms and sold them for bait. They were kept in large jars in the basement. He and Bud liked to look in on the worms every evening about sundown because that was the time the worms did most of their writhing and both father and son got a special kick out of seeing worms writhe, especially in masses. Glenn’s left eye stuttered again. I couldn’t be sure whether
or not this was some local brand of double-reverse sophisticated humor. The boy’s face was noncommittal and I thought they might be playing games with me, satirizing the outsider’s conviction that smalltown life is a surrender to just such tiny deaths, worm-watching and Masonic handshakes. (Or were they trying to negate the serpent power of the longhair, distract him with worms while the townspeople put their torches to his guitar?) Owney Pine said he would tag along with them. The park lights came on.

“I started walking about three months ago,” the young man said. “I started out from Washington, D.C., so it’ll be almost a coast-to-coast walk. I’ve been trying to do it in a straight line, D.C. to Frisco, but I’ve strayed a little south. There’s plenty of time to adjust, I guess.”

“About two thousand miles. I’m Dave Bell. What’s your name?”

“Richard Spector. Sometimes I have trouble remembering it. It seems so long ago that it meant anything.”

He sat next to me, feet up on the bench and knees high as he huddled against his own legs. He was very frail and his hair covered much of his face. He looked directly at me when he spoke but with no implication of challenge in his eyes, no sense of ideologies about to clash, and I felt he had whittled these things out of his way, settling down to a position defined only by the length of each footsore day.

“People have been taking good care of me,” he said. “They feed me and sometimes give me places to sleep. At first I get a lot of strange what-is-it looks. But when I tell them I’m walking to California, they get all caught up in the craziness of the thing. People are real great if you can get them off details and onto something crazy. They’ve really been taking tremendous care of me. I brought along all the savings I had, about seven hundred dollars in cash and traveler’s checks, and in three months I’ve had to spend only about a hundred and fifty dollars for food and for sleeping in hotels whenever
it was too cold at night for outdoor-type sleeping and I couldn’t find anywhere else to stay.”