Amy Butler's Style Stitches: 12 Easy Ways to 26 Wonderful Bags (12 page)

• Cut 2 main panels on the fold*

b. Using a ruler and fabric marker, measure and mark these dimensions directly onto the
Right
side of a single layer of fabric. Then, cut along the marked lines.

• Cut 2 bands: 5½″ (14 cm) wide × 2″ (5.1 cm) long

• Cut 1 tab: 2″ (5.1 cm) wide × 2½″ (6.4 cm) long

• Cut 2 main panels on the fold

• Cut 2 pocket panels on the fold

c. Open the fabric. Measure and mark these dimensions directly on the
Right
side of a single layer of fabric. Then, cut along the marked lines.

• Cut 2 bands: 5½″ (14 cm) wide × 2″ (5.1 cm) long

d. Use the panels you have cut out as full-size pattern pieces to cut the interfacing on a single layer.

• Cut 2 main panels

• Cut 1 pocket panel

• Cut 2 bands

a. Place the
Wrong
side of the first exterior main panel onto the fusible side of the corresponding interfacing panel. Using a damp pressing cloth,* fuse the interfacing in place. Turn the panels over and press them again, making sure there are no puckers.

b. Repeat step 3a to fuse the interfacing to the second exterior main panel, both exterior bands, and one pocket panel.

a. Fold the first exterior main panel in half,
Right
sides together, matching the side raw edges. Gently press a crease on the fold along the top of the finished edge only. Pin the top edges together.

b. Stitch ½″ (1.3 cm) from the folded edge, 1″ (2.5 cm) in length down from the top edge of the panel, and backstitch* at each end.

c. Open the panel. Press the pleat that forms on the
Wrong
side of the fabric flat, centering it evenly over the stitching line. Pin and then machine baste* a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam across the top edge of the pleat to hold it in place.

d. Press the pleat on the
Right
side of the main panel the full length of the panel. This will give the bag its shape.

e. Repeat steps 4a through 4d to make a top center pleat on the other exterior main panel.

Figure 1

a. Place one exterior band and exterior main panel
Right
sides together, matching the top edge of the main panel to one long edge of the band, and pin in place. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam across the pinned edge. Backstitch at each end.

b. Press the seam allowance* toward the band. Then, edge stitch* the band just above the seam.

c. Repeat steps 5a and 5b to attach the other exterior band to the second exterior main panel.

a. Fold the first lining main panel in half,
Right
sides together, matching the side edges. Gently press a crease on the fold along the top and bottom edges. Pin the edges in place.

b. Repeat steps 4b and 4c to make a pleat on both the top
and
the bottom edges. Press the pleats flat, centering the fabric evenly over the stitching line.

c. Repeat steps 6a and 6b to pleat the second lining main panel.

Repeat step 5 to attach the lining bands to the lining main panels.

a. Place the pocket panels
Right
sides together, matching all of the edges. Pin along the top edge. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam across the pinned edge. Backstitch at each end.

b. Turn the pocket
Right
side out and press along the top edge. Then, topstitch ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the edge. Backstitch at each end.

c. Match the outer curved edges and pin all around the panels. Machine baste ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the pinned edges.

d. Place the pocket onto the
Right
side of one lining main panel, matching the bottom and side edges, and pin in place. Machine baste ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the edge of the pocket.

a. Place the zipper face down onto the
Right
side of the first exterior panel with the zipper head ½″ (1.3 cm) from the side edge of the band. Place the long edge of the zipper tape ¼″ (0.6 cm) from the top edge of the band and pin it in place.

b. Using the zipper foot for your machine, stitch ⅛″ (0.3 cm) from the zipper coils, starting and stopping ½″ (1.3 cm) from each side edge. Backstitch at each end.

c. Place the first lining panel
Right
sides together with the exterior panel, sandwiching the zipper in between. Pin them in place along the top edge.

d. With the
interfaced
side of the exterior panel facing up, sew over the stitching that attached the zipper, starting and stopping ½″ (1.3 cm) from each side edge. Backstitch at each end.

e. Flip the lining over the zipper, matching the
Wrong
sides of each panel. Pin them together. Press the panels away from the zipper, pressing under the ½″ (1.3 cm) unstitched fabric at each end.

Figure 2

Figure 3

f. On the
Right
side of the exterior, topstitch a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam across the top of the exterior band, starting and stopping ½″ (1.3 cm) from each side edge. Backstitch at each end.

g. Repeat steps 9a through 9f to attach the second exterior and lining panels to the other side of the zipper.

h. With the exterior panels facing up, lay the panels on a flat surface, spreading each set of exterior and lining panels away from the zipper. Measure ½″ (1.3 cm) in from the side edges along the bottom of the zipper and make a mark on the zipper coils. Bar tack* over the coils to make a new zipper stop.

i. Use your scissors to trim the excess zipper, leaving a 1″ (2.5 cm) tail beyond the new zipper stop. Open the zipper and remove the pins from the panels.

Figure 4

a. Fold the tab in half,
Wrong
sides together, matching the short ends. Press a crease along the folded edge.

b. Open the tab and fold each side in to meet the center crease, and press.

c. Fold the tab in half again at the center crease to enclose the raw edges, and press. Pin the folded edges.

d. Edge stitch down the folded edges and backstitch at each end.

e. Fold the tab in half, matching the short ends, and pin.

f. On the
Right
side of one of the exterior main panels, measure and mark 1¼″ (3.2 cm) down from the top edge of the band at the end with the top of the zipper.

g. Place the pinned ends of the tab even with the side edge of the exterior main panel just below the mark, and pin in place. Machine baste a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam to secure the tab.

a. Separate the exterior from the lining panels. To keep the lining out of your way while you stitch the exterior panels, place the lining panels
Right
sides together, matching the raw edges, and pin them in place. Then, fold the unstitched edges at the top of the lining bands in toward the center and pin in place.

b. Place the exterior panels
Right
sides together, matching the edges and the seam that attaches the bands. Pin in place. Starting and stopping at the top folded edge on each end of the zipper, stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam down each side. Pivot at the seam on the band and around the curve of the main panel. Backstitch at each end.

c. Trim* the top corners in the seam allowances at the top edges of the exterior panels, making sure not to clip your stitching.

d. Clip* into the seam allowance at the seam that attaches the band to the main panel, being careful not to clip your stitching. Trim the seam allowance to ¼″ (0.6 cm) along the curved edge below the clip. Press the side seam allowance on the band open.

e. Then, unpin the unstitched top corners of the lining panel.

f. Repeat steps 11b through 11d to attach the lining panels, leaving a 4″ (10.2 cm) opening centered on the bottom for turning the bag
Right
side out.

Figure 5