Around the Passover Table (18 page)

Mozzarella in Matzoh Carrozza

yield:
6 to 7 appetizer or light lunch servings

This variation on the Neapolitan
mozzarella in carrozza
—a luscious golden-fried sandwich of molten mozzarella, sauced with a blend of garlic, lemon, and anchovies—may seem unusual, but softened matzoh works remarkably well as a substitute for the fluffy, sliced white bread frequently used. The absorbent matzoh pairs beautifully with the assertive citrusy sauce.

I especially like the subtle way the slightly sweet egg matzohs soften the saline edge of anchovies, but plain matzohs are very good, too.

The anchovies are essential here. They energize the flavors, bringing needed dimension to the dish, and when minced fine, will dissolve into the sauce virtually undetectable.

6 or 7 whole matzohs, egg or plain

Salt

About
¹
⁄
₂
pound mozzarella cheese, shredded or thinly sliced and then diced

6 to 12 fresh basil leaves, shredded (optional)

2 large eggs

Olive oil, for frying

Accompaniment: lemon quarters; fresh parsley sprigs, for garnish

FOR THE SAUCE

2 teaspoons finely minced garlic

2 teaspoons best-quality extra virgin olive oil

3 anchovy fillets, finely chopped

Juice of 1 lemon (3 to 4 tablespoons)

Freshly ground black pepper

MAKE
the matzoh carrozzas: break each matzoh into 4 equal pieces. Fill a large, shallow dish or pan with well-salted water. Dip 2 matzoh quarters into the water until just softened and pliant. Place some of the cheese, and basil, if using, on one of the matzoh quarters and top with the second piece of matzoh. Pat this mozzarella sandwich into a hamburger patty shape, molding it nicely with your hands and gently squeezing out any excess water. The cheese should be completely covered by the matzoh coating. Place the finished patty on a platter to dry slightly as you continue making more, using the rest of the matzoh.

PREPARE
the sauce: in a very small skillet or saucepan, cook the garlic in the oil over gentle heat until it is just tinged with gold, about 2 minutes. The garlic should remain quite soft—don't let it turn crisp or brown. Immediately add the anchovies, stirring and mashing until they have dissolved completely. Whisk in the lemon juice and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, to blend all the flavors. Keep warm until ready to serve.

BEAT
the eggs in a shallow bowl with 1 tablespoon water. Heat
¹
⁄
₄
inch of oil in a 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet until hot, but not smoking. Just before frying, slip each patty into the egg, immersing it completely, then letting the excess egg drip back into the bowl. Slip as many egg-coated patties into the hot oil as possible without crowding the pan and fry them until crisp and golden on both sides. Avoid turning the patties more than once. Fry the remaining patties, in batches, if necessary. Drain lightly on paper towels.

ARRANGE
two carrozzas on each plate and spoon some of the sauce over them. Serve with lemon quarters and fresh parsley sprigs, as garnish.

Salad of Bitter Herbs and Oranges

yield:
8 servings

Gnarled horseradish root in its native state may look positively prehistoric, but it was not the original maror, or bitter herb, of the ancients. Biblical scholars surmise that greens like chicory, dandelion, sorrel, and hyssop, which grow wild in Egypt and the Sinai Peninsula, first symbolized the bitterness of bondage at seders.

Many Jews still use bitter greens, especially romaine, not only for maror, but also for hazeret, the other bitter herb called for on some seder plates. Why eat two different bitter herbs? According to the Mishnah, since the Bible speaks of bitter herbs in the plural, we are required to eat more than one kind.

This salad, combining several of these bitter herbs with chunks of fresh orange, offers a lovely contrast to a lush brisket or braised lamb.

FOR THE DRESSING

¹
⁄
₃
cup fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons minced shallot

1
¹
⁄
₂
tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

2 teaspoons grated orange zest

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

FOR THE SALAD

12 to 14 cups mixed greens (choose three or more of the following: arugula, sorrel, watercress, Belgian endive, romaine, radicchio)

¹
⁄
₂
cup thinly sliced radishes

4 to 6 thinly sliced scallions (use white and pale green parts)

¹
⁄
₂
cup snipped fresh dill

2 blood or navel oranges, peeled and white pith removed, quartered lengthwise and sliced widthwise

MAKE
the dressing: combine the lemon juice, shallot, thyme, and zest in a medium bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil. Season with salt and pepper.

PLACE
the greens in a large bowl. Top with the radishes, scallions, and dill. Toss with enough of the dressing to coat. Add the oranges and toss again.

Roasted Asparagus Bundles with Toasted Matzoh Crumbs

yield:
8 servings

When the freshest spring asparagus hits my local markets, I could eat it every day—and often do, roasting the spears to unleash their best flavors. Minutes to prepare, good hot or at room temperature, they're excellent for the quickest weekday dinner.

But for the seders, I primp them up a bit. Instead of merely snapping off the tough ends, I usually trim the lower stalks with a few shaves of the vegetable peeler and tie them with scallion ribbons into pretty bundles for easy serving. And sometimes I cloak them with savory toasted matzoh crumbs for contrasting crunch. While matzoh meal works well here, coarse crumbs
home-prepared
from whole matzohs really make this dish shine. If you can steal the time, it is worthwhile making a large batch to have on hand throughout the holiday.

FOR THE TOPPING

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

¹
⁄
₂
cup matzoh meal or coarse matzoh crumbs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

FOR THE ASPARAGUS

2 or 3 scallions

2 pounds asparagus, tough ends trimmed (and peeled, if desired)

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

PREHEAT
the oven to 475°F.

MAKE
the topping: heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté 1 minute. Add the matzoh meal or crumbs, season generously with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until the matzoh meal is light golden brown. Remove the skillet from the heat, stir in the tarragon and lemon zest, and set aside.

CUT
8 long strips from the green part of scallions (reserve the white parts for another use, such as the
Salad of Bitter Herbs
). Poach the scallion strips in boiling water for 1 minute to make them pliable, then remove them and pat them dry. Divide the asparagus spears into serving size portions and use the scallion strips to tie each portion with a knot or bow into a flat bundle.

ARRANGE
the asparagus bundles on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with the oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast until tender, 10 to 12 minutes.

TRANSFER
the bundles to a serving platter. Drizzle with lemon juice and dust with the toasted matzoh crumbs.

  

Garlicky Swiss Chard and Mushroom Matzoh Kugel

yield:
About 8 side-dish servings

A combination of mushrooms, chard leaves' mellow, earthy edge and its succulent stems beautifully balance this eggy matzoh pudding. But this recipe will take well to other big flavors too. Try sautéed fennel or braised celery root (enhanced with crushed fennel or celery seeds), roasted garlic, or a dose of crispy fried shallots mixed with mushrooms. Prepared with diced artichoke hearts, the kugel would be especially delicious topped with toasted crushed hazelnuts. Serve the kugel cut into squares as a side dish with dinner. It also makes an excellent brunch or lunch main course.

¹
⁄
₂
cup dried wild mushrooms, preferably boletus (porcini or cèpes; shiitakes won't work well here) (about 1 ounce)

6 tablespoons olive oil, plus additional for greasing the pan

2 cups chopped onion

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

About
¹
⁄
₄
pound fresh shiitakes or other fresh wild, exotic, or cultivated mushrooms, stems removed and reserved for another use or discarded, caps wiped clean with a damp paper towel and thinly sliced (1
¹
⁄
₂
to 2 cups)

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh garlic

About 1
¹
⁄
₂
pounds green Swiss chard, well washed but not dried, leaves separated from stems using a knife or scissors and coarsely sliced, stems trimmed and cut into
¹
⁄
₂
-inch pieces