Around the Passover Table (25 page)

Classic Matzoh Brie

yield:
2 to 4 servings

Not just for Passover. Like matzoh balls and potato latkes, matzoh brie now makes regular appearances at the table year-round.

And not just for breakfast. Tony Manhattan restaurants feature entrees of fluffy matzoh brie, chockablock with smoked salmon and sautéed sweet onions, fragrant with dill, or layered with exotic wild mushrooms.

Like the best soul-satisfying starchy foods, matzoh brie is a chef's canvas, reflecting the image and nuances you choose: served like French toast, flavored with vanilla, cinnamon or almond extract and doused with maple syrup; or frittata-style, sautéed with onions, mushrooms, and sapid tender vegetables like artichokes or asparagus. In fact, I often add some soaked and drained matzoh to frittata recipes—it stretches the number of eggs used, reducing that insistent egginess that spells breakfast to so many of us.

No sweet/savory matzoh brie fault line runs through our house: though I grew up on the sweet, we thoroughly enjoy all versions. Instructions for both follow, and see the Cook's Note for a buttery caramelized onion matzoh brie, with or without smoked salmon.

4 whole plain or egg matzohs

4 or 5 large eggs (use 5 for a softer, eggier matzoh brie)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

Optional accompaniments: Cinnamon-Vanilla Sugar (recipe follows), apple or other fruit sauces or compotes (see
Spring Compote
), maple syrup, jam, honey,
sour cream, yogurt cream
, fresh (unaged) goat or sheep's milk cheeses, farmer cheese, or cottage cheese

PLEASE
read “
Making Matzoh Brie
” and choose the preparation and cooking style you prefer. Break the matzohs, wet them with cold water, and squeeze them dry, according to the instructions, and place them in a large bowl.

BEAT
the eggs until light and foamy. For sweet matzoh brie, season the eggs with
¹
⁄
₄
teaspoon salt; for savory matzoh brie, season generously with lots of salt and pepper to taste (keep in mind how bland plain matzoh tastes). Stir the eggs into the matzoh mixture and combine well. If preparing either fluffy or pancake-like matzoh brie, allow the matzohs to soak in the eggs for a while.

IN
a 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet (nonstick works well here), heat the butter over medium heat until it sizzles. Add the matzoh batter, either adding it in all at once, like an omelet or frittata, or dropping by heaping tablespoonfuls, like pancakes. Fry until golden brown on the bottom, then turn and fry until done to taste on the other side: either golden and fluffy or more well-done and crisp, according to preferred method. While hot, sprinkle with Cinnamon Vanilla Sugar, or serve with one or more of the other suggested accompaniments.

COOK'S NOTE
: For those who crave whole grains during the holiday, try matzoh brie, savory or sweet, made from whole-wheat matzoh (available kosher-for-Passover). No, it won't summon up taste memories of McCann's old-fashioned Irish oatmeal, but it can be a wonderful comfort food when needed.

Caramelized Onion Matzoh Brie
In a large, heavy skillet, sauté 1 pound very thinly sliced onions (4 cups) in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter and 1 tablespoon mild oil until softened and golden, about 15 minutes. Salt and pepper generously, and if you want to include some smoked salmon, stir in 4 ounces, cut in slivers (you'll probably want to reduce or eliminate the salt if the salmon is salty). Raise heat, and cook, lifting and turning the onions until they are a rich gold, speckled lightly with bronze. If you'd like, add 3 to 4 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (such as parsley or chives; include some fresh snipped dill if you've added smoked salmon), and let cool slightly. Stir the onion into the prepared matzoh brie mixture from the recipe for Classic Matzoh Brie and let stand 5 minutes, then proceed with the directions for frying. If desired, serve with
yogurt cream, sour cream
, or any of the suggested cheeses.

Cinnamon-Vanilla Sugar

yield:
¹
⁄
₂
cup

¹
⁄
₂
cup granulated light brown or white sugar or a combination

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¹
⁄
₂
vanilla bean

COMBINE
the sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and, using the tip of a small paring knife, scrape the seeds into the sugar. (Reserve the pod for another use or discard.) Stir well, and set aside at least 20 minutes to mingle the flavors. Store in an airtight container and shake well before using.

  

Savory Artichoke Matzoh Brie

yield:
4 servings

I usually prepare this delicious, well-seasoned version in the homey, scrambled egg–style for brunch or a casual meatless main course at lunch or dinner. But I've also brought it to the table whole like a poufy frittata, to be served in wedges as a dressy side dish. For a lovely starter, prepare this matzoh brie as individual “pancakes” (see
Fried Pancake-Like Matzoh Brie
, topped with smoked salmon or caviar (kosher fish roe), with or without sour cream or yogurt cream.

3 cups very thinly sliced onion

5 tablespoons olive oil, or 4 tablespoons olive oil and 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1
¹
⁄
₂
cups lightly precooked fresh or thawed frozen artichoke hearts, sliced (if using frozen, pat them dry between layers of paper towels)

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon minced garlic (optional)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar or fine-quality red wine vinegar

4 whole plain or egg matzohs

5 large eggs

3 tablespoons finely snipped fresh dill, plus additional for garnish (also delightful and fresh-tasting with finely chopped mint leaves, added to or in place of the dill)

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Optional accompaniments:
yogurt cream
or yogurt, plain or mixed with finely chopped scallions

IN
a 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet (preferably well-seasoned cast-iron or nonstick), sauté the onions in 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat, lifting and turning them occasionally, until soft and golden at the edges, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the artichokes and garlic, if using, and continue lifting and scraping for 5 to 7 minutes, until the artichokes are cooked through and the onions are dotted with dark gold. Generously season with salt and pepper and add the vinegar. Cook for a few minutes over high heat, stirring, until the vinegar is completely evaporated and just a soft, acidic sparkle remains. Taste again for seasoning, then remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

BREAK
the matzohs into 2- or 3-inch pieces and place in a bowl. Cover with cold water and soak for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, beat the eggs in a large bowl until light and foamy. Drain the matzoh in a colander, pressing out all the water with your hands or the back of a spoon, and add to the eggs. Add the dill and oregano, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the artichokes and onions and combine thoroughly.

PLEASE
read “
Making Matzoh Brie
” and choose the cooking style you prefer. Wipe out the skillet thoroughly, add the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil or 2 tablespoons oil and 1 tablespoon butter and heat until sizzling. Add the matzoh batter all at once, and cook either frittata-style (in one piece, waiting until the the entire piece is golden brown before turning, or break it into sections with the spatula to turn it) or scrambled egg–style (lifting and turning pieces as different egg-soaked matzohs begin to set). Or drop it in by heaping tablespoonfuls, like pancakes, and fry over medium heat, until golden brown on the bottom, then turn and fry until done to taste on the other side (either golden and fluffy or more well-done and crisp).

SERVE
matzoh brie as soon as it is done, accompanied, if desired, by the yogurt cream or yogurt and sprinkled with additional fresh dill or mint.

Cinnamon Matzoh Brie with Toasted Pecans and Warm Vanilla-Maple Syrup

yield:
2 servings

Homey matzoh brie takes so well to flavorful additions it's easy to turn this simple breakfast treat into something special. Here I bathe the matzoh in apple juice and sweet spices before frying, then serve it with warm, vanilla-scented maple syrup to accent the crunchy pecan studding. Other suggestions for improvisations follow.

3 whole plain or egg matzohs

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon ground cinnamon

About
¹
⁄
₈
teaspoon salt

1 cup pure, unsweetened apple juice

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract

3 large eggs

3 tablespoons chopped toasted pecans

2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the Vanilla-Maple Syrup

¹
⁄
₃
cup pure maple syrup

¹
⁄
₂
teaspoon kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract