Encyclopedia Gothica (2 page)

ABSINTHE
Liqueur of green colour and anise flavour distilled from wormwood, a potent psychedelic. Long favoured by Goths for its elegant preparation ritual and associations with madness, death and decadent creative types (
POE
,
BAUDELAIRE
, Wilde, etc.). Popularized in the 1990s after appearing in the
NINE INCH NAILS
video for “The Perfect Drug” and
POPPY Z. BRITE
’s novel
Lost Souls
. Also known as “The Green Fairy” or “La fée verte.”

ABYSS, AZRAEL
Fictional co-host of
GOTH TALK
, a cable access TV spoof produced as a recurring sketch on
Saturday Night Live
(1997–1999). Portrayed by comedian Chris Kattan, he was the melodramatic Goth persona of high school student Todd Henderson, who worked a
MUNDANE
day job at
CINNABON
and tried to avoid beatings by his jock brother. Sporting cliché white face make-up, black clothing and
BACKCOMBED
hair, he spoke in a high-pitched voice, often screeched like a cat and signed off with “Stay out of the daylight!”

ADDAMS FAMILY, THE
Fictional “creepy and kooky” family created by American cartoonist Charles Addams in the 1930s. Father Gomez, mother
MORTICIA
, daughter
WEDNESDAY
, son Pugsley, Uncle Fester and Cousin Itt were obsessed with the macabre and displayed a funereal style that could be considered proto-Goth. (The Addams Family Mansion has inspired many a home décor project.) Originally appearing as a cartoon in
The New Yorker
and adapted for several films in the 1990s, the clan’s most beloved incarnation remains the black-and-white TV series (1964–1966), featuring its trademark theme song composed by Vic Mizzy.
See also:
Munsters, The

AGF
Abbreviation for alt.gothic.fashion, a Usenet group for the discussion of Goth fashion and beauty that splintered off from
ALT.GOTHIC
in 1995 after one too many posts about pointy shoes. Typical post subjects: “How can I keep my clothes black?” or “How do I make a
PARASOL
?” At one point, it was used to identify community members in other online activities (e.g., including AGF in the title of an eBay auction). Members may be referred to as AGF-ers, although this is, like those baggy
TRIPP
pants, quite out of style.

ALCHEMY GOTHIC
Jewelry design company founded in 1977 by British punks Geoff Kayson and Trevor Phillipson. Their
MEDIEVAL
-inspired pewter pieces were an immediate hit with ’80s Goths, rockers and bikers alike; soon Alchemy became the go-to gang for spiders, skulls, bones and
BAT
s on rings, necklaces and such. Having since expanded their empire to include clothing and lifestyle items (
SILVER
dragon goblet or
ABSINTHE
glassware set, anyone?), Alchemy’s signature styles remain rooted in historical, Ye Olde English designs, from Victoriana to
STEAMPUNK
.

ALIEN SEX FIEND
British
GOTHIC ROCK
band formed in 1982 in London. Generally considered the ultimate representation of the early ’80s
BATCAVE
sound and style, so named for the first
POST-PUNK
nightclub night in London, at which singer Nik Fiend worked and ASF regularly performed. Fiend is best known for his horror-themed appearance, including ghoulish face make-up and
FISHNET
clothing. Hits include “Now I’m Feeling Zombified” and a cover of Johnny Cash’s “I Walk the Line.”
See also:
Specimen

ALLEY, THE
Chicago indoor mall of alternative retailers, offering more than 40,000 square feet of T-shirts, boots, jewelry, leather goods and other hallmarks of subcultural style at the corner of Belmont and Clark streets. Yes, you can buy this stuff cheaper at
HOT TOPIC
, and yes,
RECOVERING GOTH
s and other adults may not appreciate the punker-than-thou attitude of some staff, and no, it might not be the best place to get an extreme piercing or
TATTOO
. But many a teen has been very happily outfitted here. And they used to have a
COFFIN
in the shop full of band pins. (On a personal note, I bought the best pair of
LATEX
stiletto boots ever on sale here once. Thanks!)

ALT.GOTHIC
Usenet group dedicated to the general discussion of Goth culture, founded (around
HALLOWEEN
1991) as a spinoff of Dominion, the electronic mailing list for
THE SISTERS OF MERCY
. In general, Goths were early adopters of the net, and the forum acted as a social hub for hitherto far-flung
FREAK
s of all persuasions to discuss music, fashion, art as well as those Big Questions about life and death. Alt.gothic became the repository of much Goth news and lore and a significant source of slang, in-jokes, etc. Members launched the annual
CONVERGENCE
convention, which they organized when not busy typing catty replies to the question “Is
MARILYN MANSON
Goth?” In 1995, separate groups were created for Brits (uk.people.gothic) and fashion (alt.gothic.fashion). Like most such newsgroups, its use and influence have dwindled since the rise of social networks.
See also:
Net.goth

AMBIENT
Musical genre encompassing a wide range of styles, most of them instrumental and electronic in nature, with an emphasis on atmosphere and non-musical elements, as popularized by Brian Eno in the 1970s and in chillout rooms at 1990s raves. More experimental ambient music is often sold by the same mail-order catalogues as underground Goth/Industrial records, and Goths often describe certain bands of a softer, more “exotic” nature —
DEAD CAN DANCE
, for example — as ambient, but it’s not quite accurate to compare or confuse them.
See also:
Dark ambient

AMERICAN GOTHIC
Despite its title and the prominent presence of a pitchfork, this iconic 1930 painting of rural America by Grant Wood is not Goth. The production company for Chicago DJ
SCARY LADY SARAH
is though.

ANDROGYNY
Blame it on
BOWIE
and
BAUHAUS
, but boys have been donning make-up and ladies’
FISHNETS
since before Goth was even called Goth. So common a sight is males pinching feminine style that nobody would bat a heavily mascaraed eyelash at boys in black
EYELINER
, nailpolish or even a
CORSET
at a Goth bar. Furthermore, few would assume anything about their sexual orientation as a result. Academics muse on how guys in skirts form part of Goth’s overall gender transgressions while those in question simply enjoy the ritual of dressing up with friends of any gender and pissing off most jocks and parents.

ANKH
Ancient Egyptian hieroglyphic symbol for eternal life, displayed as a cross with an oval head. Ever since
DAVID BOWIE
’s character whipped out a gold ankh pendant especially designed with a blade to slice into necks in the horror flick
THE HUNGER
, it’s been especially associated with
VAMPIRES
. A must-have in every wannabe vamp’s chest of jewels.

ANNE RICE VAMPIRE LESTAT FAN CLUB
As it sounds, a fan club for author
ANNE RICE
and her vampire chronicles. Formed in 1988 in New Orleans, the ARVLFC’s greatest contribution to Gothdom was producing the annual Vampires Ball, a lavishly themed costume party which gave you an excuse to buy that $1,000 velvet cloak you’ve always wanted.

ANT, ADAM
British singer (né Stuart Leslie Goddard, b. November 3, 1954). Leader of punk band Adam and the Ants (1977–1982) and best known for 1982’s #1 hit song “Goody Two Shoes.” Ant personified the
NEW ROMANTIC
era of
ANDROGYNOUS
, glammed-up pop music. His pirate costumes, a suggestion of manager Malcolm McLaren, were probably responsible for the spread of
POET SHIRT
s to America.

APOPTYGMA BERZERK
Norwegian
INDUSTRIAL
band formed by Stephan Groth in 1991, sometimes abbreviated as Apop. Alongside
VNV NATION
, part of the first wave of European acts mixing
EBM
with melodic
SYNTHPOP
that conquered North America’s club playlists in the early 2000s, mostly through re-releases on
METROPOLIS RECORDS
. Peaked with 2002 album
Harmonizer
, but continue to enjoy heavy rotation at
CYBERGOTH
events.

AQUA NET
Brand of American aerosol hairspray favoured by those wanting exceptionally strong hold at a budget price. Popularized during the 1980s for use on mohawks,
DEATHHAWKS
and other extreme styles requiring its tortoise-like shellac.

ASH, DANIEL
British guitarist and singer (b. July 31, 1957), founder of Original Goth band
BAUHAUS
and its off-shoots
TONES ON TAIL
and
LOVE AND ROCKETS
. Atmosphere and aggression are his musical trademarks, plus spiked hair and a penchant for psychedelia. His solo albums never quite hit the charts, but with the royalties from his bands’ “
BELA LUGOSI’S DEAD
” and “Go!” he can enjoy a life of leisure and occasional stints as a special guest DJ. His latest release is the 2009 solo EP
It’s a Burn Out
.

ASTBURY, IAN
British singer (b. May 14, 1962) best known as leader of
THE CULT
. Wolf child, howler of hymns, shaker of hips and tambourines, Astbury is one of many credited with the first use of the word Goth in a musical context, although by the time he called singer Andi Sex Gang and his followers “Goth” in 1982, the term was already in use so it’s probably a bit revisionist on his part. His contributions instead came from writing classic songs like “She Sells Sanctuary” and making it acceptable to wear aviator sunglasses and fur hats to a Goth show. Less influential: his post-Cult project Holy Barbarians and a stint fronting The Doors (“of the 21st Century”). Still, the man’s got attitude, soul and a vocal style that’s unmatched. Don’t count him out for a resurrection.

AUTUMN, EMILIE
American singer and violinist (née Emilie Autumn Liddell, b. September 22, 1979). A self-proclaimed Wayward Victorian Girl, her vaudevillian performances and songs about asylums have attracted a rabid fanbase of young girls into striped tights, brightly coloured hair and heavy metal–type vocal screeching over
INDUSTRIAL
beats. Her debut CD,
Enchant
, was released in 2002 and has become a kind of classic for the kids. She has performed with rock stars like Courtney Love and Billy Corgan, not that her legions would be particularly impressed by that. No, they like her for being a Goth Girl for their generation, not so much related to
HAMMER HORROR
and punk rock as to anime and cabaret. She’s very cute.