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Authors: Amitav Ghosh

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Eight annas! This was more than Kesri had ever paid for an article of clothing. But the price did not seem excessive – if the buttons had been made of real gold they could not have been brighter or more becoming.

At the throat of the koortee there was another set of laces, and before tightening these Hukam Singh took out a bead necklace. He put it on Kesri so that the brightest beads were framed by the koortee's stiff, gold-edged collar.

The beads too were paid for by the Company, Hukam Singh explained. The officers insisted that sepoys wore them. If lost, two weeks' wages would be deducted from your salary.

With the laces at the neck drawn taut, the collar was like a yoke. When a
kamar-bandh
was tightened around his waist, it was as if he had been trussed like a chicken. Kesri could barely turn his head, and his chin was pushed up in such a way that his throat hurt when he tried to talk.

How could a man fight all bundled up like this?

Hukam Singh showed him how to stand erect, with his head tilted back.

When you're in a koortee, you can't let your head droop, he said. Your eyes have to be up and your shoulders have to be straight.

As he squared his back, Kesri caught a glimpse of the upcurved yellow extensions on the shoulders of the koortee. They were like the tips of an eagle's wings, and it seemed to Kesri that his shoulder had never seemed so broad or so strong.

All through this Kesri's head had been covered, as usual, by a cotton bandhna. His hair was tied up under it, in a coil.

Now Hukam Singh reached up and whipped off the bandhna so that his hair fell down over his shoulders. You'll have to cut your hair shorter, he said. The officers won't let you tie it in a coil under the topee.

Then, reaching into another bag, he produced a huge, two-foot-high, cloth-covered object that looked like a beehive.

When the topee was placed on his head, Kesri's chin sagged into the points of the collar, almost choking him. It weighed as much as a pile of bricks.

Hukam Singh laughed at the expression on Kesri's face. Removing the topee from Kesri's head, he showed the recruits what was inside: hidden under the outer wrappings of cloth was an iron frame.

It's heavy when you're marching, he said, but you'll be glad of it in a fight. It protects your head.

The recruits took it in turn to try the topee and afterwards they fell silent: its weight conveyed to them more graphically than anything they had yet heard, how different the future would be from the life they had known before.

*

As the anniversary of her English tutor's death drew closer, Shireen grew increasingly nervous about her planned meeting with Zadig Karabedian. Thinking back, she could not understand why she had so readily agreed to meet with him – and that too without having the least idea of what he wanted.

Never before had she contemplated meeting a virtual stranger without the knowledge of her family. She knew that if any of her relatives – even her daughters – came to know of the assignation there would be much untoward talk. But nor could she forget how warmly Bahram had spoken of his old friend, Zadig Bey. To have him arrive on her doorstep was like being presented with a messenger from Bahram himself: it was almost as if he were reaching out to her from his grave.

Nossa Senhora da Gloria was only a short distance from the Mestrie mansion but to walk there, even with an escort of maids and khidmatgars might have excited comment, so Shireen decided to ask her brothers for a buggy instead. When the morning came she was glad she'd done so, for the sky was heavy with threatening banks of cloud.

The rain came pouring down as the carriage was pulling up to the churchyard gate. Fortunately the syces had come prepared and one of them escorted Shireen down the path with an umbrella.
Leaving him to wait under the portico, she bought a few candles and made her way to the church's doorway. It was dark inside: the tall windows were shuttered against the rain and the interior was lit only by a few flickering lamps.

Shireen's face was covered with one of the loosely knitted shawls that she used as veils when she left the family compound. Now, looking through the shawl's apertures, she spotted a tall figure sitting in a pew halfway between the entrance and the altar. She advanced slowly up the nave, holding her veil in place with her teeth, and on drawing level she checked her step for just as long as it took to ascertain that the man was indeed Zadig Bey. Then she made a gesture to let him know who she was, and motioned to him to move further back, to a dark corner that was screened by a pillar. He answered with a nod and she proceeded towards the altar.

The candles had begun to shake in her hands now; she tried to calm herself as she lit them and stuck them in place. Then she turned around and went slowly to the spot where Zadig's tall figure sat hidden among the shadows. Seating herself at a carefully judged distance, she whispered through her veil: ‘Good morning, Mr Karabedian.'

‘Good morning, Bibiji.'

The rain had begun to drum on the church's metal roof now: it struck Shireen that this was a lucky thing because they were less likely to be overheard.

‘Please, Zadig Bey,' she whispered. ‘I do not have much time. My brother's coach is waiting outside – you can imagine the scandal if I am found here, with you. Please tell me why you wanted to meet me.'

‘Yes, Bibiji … of course.'

She could hear the uncertainty in his voice, and when he fell silent she prompted him again: ‘Yes? What is it?'

‘Please forgive me, Bibiji,' he mumbled. ‘It is a very difficult thing to relate, a very personal thing, and it is especially hard …'

‘Yes?'

‘Because I do not know who I am speaking to.'

‘What do you mean?' she said in surprise. ‘I don't understand.'

‘Well, Bibiji, I have seen pictures of you in Bahram-bhai's rooms
in Canton – yet I do not think I would recognize you if I saw you on the street. And there are some things that are hard to speak of with someone whose eyes you have never seen.'

Shireen could feel her face growing flushed. As she fumbled with her shawl, she had a vivid recollection of another time when she had parted her veil to show her face to a stranger: it was on the day of her wedding. Sitting on the dais, she had been so overcome with shyness that she had been unable to raise her head: it was as if a great weight had suddenly descended on her. No matter how hard she tried, she could not make herself look into the eyes of the man with whom she was to share her life. In the end her mother had been forced to reach over and tilt her head back. Years later Shireen had herself done the same for both her daughters – yet now it was as if she were once again a girl, presenting her face to a man for the first time.

There was something unseemly about this train of associations and she forced herself to put them out of her mind. Parting her veil, she held Zadig's gaze for just long enough to see his eyes widening in surprise. She had already turned away when she heard him exclaim, in surprise:
Ya salaam!

‘What is the matter, Zadig Bey?'

‘Forgive me – I'm sorry. I did not expect …'

‘Yes?'

‘That you would look so young …'

She stiffened. ‘Oh?'

He coughed into his fist. ‘The pictures I saw in Bahram-bhai's rooms – they do not do you justice.'

She gave him a startled glance and drew the shawl over her face again. ‘Please, Zadig Bey.'

‘I am sorry,' he said. ‘That was not right –
maaf keejiye
– please forgive me.'

‘It's not important. But please. You must be quick now. Tell me why we are here – why did you want to speak to me in private?' ‘Yes of course.'

With great deliberation he folded his hands in his lap and cleared his throat. ‘Bibiji, I do not know if what I am doing is right – what I have to say is not easy.'

‘Go on.'

‘Bibiji, you remember when you were talking to me the other day, about Bahram-bhai and how he had left no son to fill his shoes?'

‘Yes, I do.'

‘I felt that there was something you should know. That is why I asked to meet you here.' ‘Go on.'

She heard him swallow and saw the Adam's apple bobbing in his thin, leathery neck.

‘You see, Bibiji – what I wanted to tell you is that Bahram-bhai
did
have a son.'

The announcement made no immediate impression on her: the sound of the rain was so loud now that she thought she had misheard.

‘I think I did not hear you properly, Zadig Bey.'

He shifted uncomfortably in his seat. ‘Yes, Bibiji, what I say is true. Bahram-bhai was the father of a boy.'

Shireen shook her head and uttered the first words that came to her, in a rush. ‘No, Zadig Bey, you do not understand. What you are saying is impossible. I can assure you of this because we once visited a man who knows of these things, a renowned Baba, and he explained that my husband would not be able to have a son without undergoing a long treatment …'

She ran out of breath and fell silent.

Zadig spoke again, very softly. ‘Bibiji, forgive me, but I would not say it if I were not certain. Bahram-bhai's son is a young man now. He has had many difficulties over the years. That is one of the reasons why I thought you should know about this.'

‘It's not true. I know it's not.'

Under the cover of her shawl, Shireen dug her fingers into her ears. They felt unclean, defiled, and she was filled with disgust at herself for having agreed to meet this man – this man who felt no qualms about uttering such obscenities in a place of God. She thought she might vomit if she continued to sit where she was, within touching distance of him. Struggling to her feet, she said, in as steady a voice as she could muster: ‘I am sorry, sir. You are a liar – a foul, filthy liar. You should be ashamed of yourself, telling such lies about a man who believed you to be his friend.'

Zadig said nothing and sat frozen on the pew, with his head lowered. But as she was pushing past him, she heard him whisper: ‘Bibiji, if you don't believe me, ask Vico. He knows everything. He will tell you about it.'

‘Please,' she responded, ‘we have nothing more to say to each other.'

It occurred to her that he might try to follow her outside, in which case he would be seen by the Mestrie coachmen and word would get back to her family.

‘If you have any honour at all,' she said, ‘you will not move from here until I am gone.'

‘Yes, Bibiji.'

To her relief he stayed seated as she hurried down the nave and out of the door.

September 30, 1839 Honam

Only after I had accepted Zhong Lou-si's offer did began to worry about the practicalities: what would I do about lodgings? About food? Working for Mr Coolidge was very dull but the job did at least provide me with a place to sleep and eat. What was I to do now?

I decided to speak to Asha-didi, the proprietress of the only Achha eatery in Canton: she is the kind of woman who is known here as ‘Ah Je' – someone who can manage everything. Although she is from Calcutta's Chinese community, Asha-didi knows many people here since she is Cantonese by origin. Her husband, Baburao (I've tried to get into the habit of using their Chinese names but it's difficult since they usually speak Bangla with me), also has extensive connections among the boat-people of Canton: I thought for sure they'd know of a place that I could rent. And I was not wrong: no sooner had I mentioned my problem than Asha-didi said that there was a spare room in her own place of residence – the houseboat that she and Baburao share with their children and grandchildren. It is moored on the other side of the Pearl River, at Honam Island. Asha-didi warned
me that the room was being used as a storage space and would need to be cleaned out. I told her that I didn't mind in the least.

But it turned out that the room was being used as a poultry coop as well as an attic. I was completely unprepared for the blizzard of feathers and chicken-shit that was set a-whirl by the opening of the door. When the storm subsided, I saw that the birds were roosting on stacks of oars, yulohs, battens, sprits, rudders, sweeps and coils of bamboo-rope. I thought to myself: How could anyone possibly live here? There isn't even a bed.

The look on my face made Asha-didi laugh.
Bhoi peyo na
, don't worry, she said in Bangla (I have yet to get over the wonder that seizes me when this thin, brisk woman, whose clothes and manner are indistinguishable from that of other Canton boatwomen, addresses me in Bangla, and that too in the dialect of Calcutta – it seems marvellous to me, even though I know very well that it should not be. After all, her family home in Calcutta was separated from mine by only a few streets).

Yet, in some ways Asha-didi is completely Cantonese: she doesn't like to waste words or time. Minutes after she had shown me the room, she was busy seeing to its cleaning and refurbishment. A poultry-keeper tied the chickens into bunches, by their feet, and carried them away like clusters of clucking coconuts. Then a half-dozen of her sons, grandsons and daughters-in-law got to work, scraping feathers and excrement off the deck, mopping the bulwarks and moving lumber and equipment. Soon, bits of furniture began to appear: chairs, stools and even a charpoy that had travelled all the way to Canton from Calcutta.

Only after the furniture had been arranged did Asha-didi open the door at the far end of the room. That was when I le arnt that the bedroom had a little appendage. There's a little
baranda
here, said Asha-didi. Come and have a look!

The ‘veranda' was heaped with rotting beams, spars
and ropes. I stepped out gingerly, expecting another unwelcome surprise – geese maybe, or ducks. Instead, the panorama of the city burst upon me like a breaking wave.

It was a clear day, and I could see all the way to Wu Hill, the ridge that overlooks Guangzhou; I could even see the great five-storey edifice at the hill's peak: the Zhenhai Lou or Sea-Calming Tower. In the foreground, on the other side of the river, was the foreign enclave; the channel in between was crowded with vessels of many shapes and sizes: Swatow trading junks could be seen towering over rice-boats and ferries; and everywhere one looked there were circular coracles spinning from one bank to another (it is in these that I cross the river every day, for the price of a single cash-coin).

I could not have asked for more: to step out on that veranda is to have a perpetual tamasha unfolding before one's eyes!

At night, when darkness falls on the city, the river comes alive with lights. Many of Canton's famous ‘flower-boats' float past my veranda, lanterns blazing, leaving behind sparkling wakes of music and laughter. Some of the flower-boats have open-sided terraces and pavilions, in which women can be seen entertaining their clients with songs and music. Watching them I can understand why it's said of Canton that ‘young men come here to be ruined.'

The location too could not be better. The houseboat is moored by the shore of Honam Island, which is much quieter than the heavily built-up northern side, where the city of Guangzhou lies. The contrast between the two banks is startling: the north shore is densely settled, with as great a press of buildings as I have ever seen. On this side we have mainly woods and farmland, along with a few hamlets, monasteries and large estates. The surroundings are peaceful, yet Compton's print-shop is within easy reach.

The houseboat is itself a constant source of diversion. Asha-didi's sons sometimes come to chat with me, and often the talk turns to Calcutta. Most of them were very
young when their family left Bengal to return to Guangdong but they've all preserved a few memories of the city. There's not one of them who doesn't remember a few words of Bangla and Hindustani and they all have a taste for masala. The little ones – Baburao and Asha-didi's grandchildren – also ask about Calcutta and Bengal. The strength of their ties to India is surprising – I think it must have something to do with the fact that their grandfather and grandmother are buried by the Hooghly River, in the Chinese cemetery at Budge-Budge. This creates a living bond with the soil, something that is hard to understand for those such as myself, whose forefathers' ashes have always been scattered on the Ganga.

Of Asha-didi's children the one who lived longest in Calcutta is their eldest daughter, who everybody calls Ah Maa. She is perhaps a year or two older than me and has never married. She is very thin and her face has more lines than is merited by her age. Much like the unmarried
aiburo
aunts of Bengal, she looks after the young children and takes on much of the responsibility for the running of the househo ld. She is never idle for a moment, yet there is something a little melancholy about her. When I first arrived she was the only member of the family who seemed to resent my presence. She would never speak to me or even look at me; instead she would avert her face in the way that a Bengali woman might do with a stranger. This struck me as odd, because here in Canton women of the boat-people community do not keep purdah or bind their feet or observe any of the constraints that prevail among other Chinese. Nor indeed does she display any shyness in dealing with other strangers.

I had the feeling that the sight of me had re-opened some old wound. And just as it sometimes happens with an old scab, she seemed unable to ignore me. Sometimes she would bring me food from Asha-didi's kitchen-boat. She would hand it over without a word: I could tell that there was something about me that troubled her but I could not think what it might be.

But two days ago she began to speak to me in Bangla, haltingly, as though she were dredging pebbles out of the silt of memory. Her ‘Calcutta name', she told me, was ‘Mithu'. Then she told me her tale: as a young maiden in Calcutta she had come to know a Bengali boy, a neighbour. But both families had objected; her parents had tried to marry her off to a man from Calcutta's Chinese community, but she, being stubborn, had refused him.

And so the years had gone by until it was too late for her to marry.

BOOK: Flood of Fire
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