How to Cook Indian (46 page)

1 tablespoon fresh garlic paste (page 12)

9 ounces (250 grams) ground lamb

1-inch (2½-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled

2 green chiles, stemmed

15 to 20 fresh mint leaves

1 large egg

1 cup (110 grams) dried bread crumbs

¼ cup (50 ml) vegetable oil

1. Pat the chops dry with an absorbent towel. Use a meat mallet to flatten them.

2. Stir together the vinegar, papaya paste, 1 teaspoon of the salt, the chile powder, ½ tablespoon of the
garam masala,
the ginger paste, and garlic paste in a large bowl. Add the chops and stir so that all the chops are evenly covered with the mixture. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator to marinate for 2 hours.

3. Put the ground lamb, remaining ¼ tablespoon
garam masala,
the ginger, chiles, mint, and the remaining ½ teaspoon salt in a food processor, and process until all the ingredients are well incorporated.

4. Coat the chops on one side with the ground lamb mixture and flatten them again with the meat mallet so they are evenly coated with the mixture.

5. Break the egg into a bowl and whisk it well. Spread the bread crumbs in a plate. Dip the chops in the egg and then roll in the bread crumbs until they are well covered on all sides.

6. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, put the chops in the pan and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, turning once or twice so they are evenly cooked on all sides.

7. Serve hot.

Chops Kari Varuval

Lamb chops marinated in yogurt and cooked with southern spices

Indian cooking is about amalgamating spices and then cooking them correctly. This recipe is a fine example of this. I suggest making this dish when you have plenty of time, as the cooking requires some care.

Serves 4.

1 pound (500 grams) lamb chops

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

3 tablespoons plain yogurt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 medium red onions, sliced

1-inch (2½-cm) piece fresh ginger, chopped

10 cloves garlic, chopped

5 or 6 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2½ teaspoons coriander seeds

30 whole black peppercorns

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

1-inch (2½-cm) cinnamon stick, broken in half

6 whole cloves

4 green cardamom pods

2 bay leaves

1½ teaspoons table salt

1½ tablespoons ghee (page 37)

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Pat the chops dry with a kitchen towel and then flatten slightly by beating with the blunt side of a knife or with a meat mallet. Place them in a bowl. Stir the turmeric into the yogurt, rub the mixture on the chops, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and put in the refrigerator to marinate for 1 hour.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add 2 teaspoons of the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add one third of the onions, the ginger, garlic, chiles, cilantro, coriander, peppercorns, fennel, half the cinnamon, 4 of the cloves, and 2 of the cardamom pods, and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes or until fragrant. Cool and place in a food processor with 2 tablespoons water. Process to a fine paste.

3. Place another nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the remaining oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the bay leaves, remaining cinnamon, remaining cloves, remaining cardamom pods, and remaining onions. Sauté for 4 to 5 minutes or until the onions are lightly browned.

4. Add the ground spice mixture and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the chops and continue to sauté for 8 minutes or until the chops are well covered with the spices and the oil comes to the top.

5. Add 1 cup (200 ml) water and the salt, and stir well.

6. Add the ghee and reduce the heat to low. Cover and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Add another ½ cup (100 ml) water if the lamb is not yet cooked through. Continue to cook for 1 hour or until the lamb is tender.

7. Uncover and simmer until the sauce is thick. Sprinkle with the lemon juice and serve immediately.

Dum Ke Kabab

Oven-baked lamb kebabs

These oven-baked kebabs are silky smooth in taste and get their great depth of flavor from all the spices that are dry-roasted and ground before being added to the meat.

Makes 24.

1 quart (800 ml) vegetable oil

2 onions, sliced

1-inch (2½-cm) cinnamon stick 4 green cardamom pods

3 whole cloves

½ teaspoon allspice berries

1 teaspoon
magaz
(melon seeds)

½ teaspoon white poppy seeds

3 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken in half

½ teaspoon caraway seeds

3 green chiles, stemmed and halved

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

4 cloves garlic

½-inch (1-cm) piece fresh ginger, chopped

1½ teaspoons
besan
(chickpea/gram flour)

1 pound (500 grams) ground lamb

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon table salt

½ cup (125 grams) plain yogurt, whisked

½ teaspoon red chile powder

¼ teaspoon
garam masala
(spice mix; page 27)

1½ tablespoons ghee (page 37)

For the garnish:

1 medium onion, peeled and cut into rings

A few sprigs fresh mint

1 lemon, cut into wedges

1. Put the oil in a deep-fryer and heat to 375°F/190°C. Add the sliced onions and fry until golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Set aside.

2. Place a medium nonstick pan over medium heat. Add the cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves, and dry-roast, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes or until fragrant. Transfer to a dry bowl and let cool to room temperature.

3. Dry-roast the allspice in the same pan for 1 to 2 minutes or until fragrant. Transfer to the bowl with the other roasted spices and let cool to room temperature. Transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a fine powder. Set aside.

4. Place the same pan over medium heat. Add the
magaz
and roast over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes or until fragrant. Transfer to a dry bowl. Add the poppy seeds to the same pan and dry-roast for 1 to 2 minutes and add to the
magaz
in the bowl. Add the red chiles to same pan and dry-roast for 2 minutes or until little brown specks form on them. Transfer to the bowl with the other spices. Last, dry-roast the caraway over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes or until fragrant. Add to the collected spices and let cool to room temperature.

5. Put the spice mixture (from steps 2, 3, and 4), green chiles, cilantro, garlic, and ginger in a spice grinder with 2 tablespoons water and grind to a smooth paste. Transfer to a small bowl.

6. Place the same nonstick pan over low heat. Add the
besan
and roast, stirring continuously, for 4 to 5 minutes or until lightly browned and fragrant.

7. Put the lamb, fried onions, roasted
besan,
and ground spice paste in a food processor, and process until smooth. Transfer to a deep bowl.

8. Add the lemon juice and salt. Stir well. Cover and put in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

9. Preheat the oven to 425°F/225°C. Whisk the yogurt, chile powder, and
garam masala
until well blended.

10. Divide the chilled lamb mixture into 24 equal portions and shape into balls. Grease your palms with a little oil and form each ball into a sausage shape 1½ inches (4 cm) long. Arrange them on a greased baking sheet and spoon a little of the yogurt mixture onto each. Bake in the center of the oven for 20 minutes, basting every 5 minutes with the ghee.

11. Garnish with the onion rings, mint sprigs, and lemon wedges, and serve immediately.

Kabargah

Lamb ribs dipped in a spicy yogurt batter and deep-fried

While working with teams who served prime ministers like Mrs. Indira Gandhi and Mr. Rajiv Gandhi, I found that Kashmiri food was always favored at state banquets. It was during this time that I picked up little nuances of the region’s cuisine and learned how to perfect this dish.

Serves 4.

1 pound (500 grams) lamb ribs, cut into pieces with 2 or 3 ribs in each

2 cups (400 ml) milk

3 green cardamom pods

1-inch (2½-cm) cinnamon stick

4 whole cloves

Generous pinch of saffron threads

2 teaspoons ground fennel seeds

1 teaspoon ground ginger

Pinch of asafetida

3 bay leaves

1½ teaspoons table salt

6 tablespoons plain yogurt

2 teaspoons red chile powder

1 quart (800 ml) vegetable oil

1. Place a deep nonstick saucepan over high heat and add the ribs, milk, 1 cup (200 ml) water, the cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, saffron, fennel, ground ginger, asafetida, bay leaves, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. When the mixture comes to a boil, lower the heat to medium, cover, and cook for 50 minutes or until the lamb is tender and most of the liquid has evaporated.