How to Cook Indian (74 page)

2. Place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Add the cumin and coriander, and dry-roast for 2 minutes or until fragrant. Let cool, then transfer to a food processor with the dried chiles, the remaining ½ teaspoon turmeric, the coconut, half of the onions, the peppercorns, tamarind pulp, and 1 cup (200 ml) water, and process to a smooth paste.

3. Place a medium nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the remaining onion and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes or until lightly browned. Add the tomato and green chiles and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes or until the oil comes to the top. Add the coconut paste and cook over high heat for 1 minute. Add 1½ cups (300 ml) water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium, add the marinated fish, and cook for 5 to 6 minutes or until the fish is cooked through. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve hot.

Mamallapuram Kal Erra

Tamil-style
masala
shrimp in banana leaves

Chennai, formerly known as Madras, is one of the major metropolitan cities of India. Some miles away on a well-built state highway is Mamallapuram, which is also known as Mahabalipuram. This place is famous for its ancient carved stone temples. I once drove down there on a day trip after doing a show in Chennai to relish a bit of India’s rich heritage. This shrimp preparation is a souvenir of that short visit years ago.

Serves 4.

16 large shrimp

8 teaspoons brown mustard seeds

2-inch (5-cm) piece fresh ginger, sliced

4 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

1 teaspoon tamarind pulp

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon red chile powder

1¼ teaspoons table salt

2 teaspoons anise seeds

½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 banana leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F/175°C.

2. Peel the shrimp, but keep the tails intact. Devein and wash thoroughly under running water. Drain well in a colander.

3. Put 6 teaspoons of the mustard seeds, the ginger, chiles, and tamarind pulp in a spice grinder. Add 2 tablespoons water and grind to a smooth paste. Transfer to a bowl, add the turmeric, chile powder, and salt, and stir.

4. Put the anise, fenugreek, cumin, and the remaining 2 teaspoons mustard seeds in a spice grinder and grind to a powder. Transfer to another small bowl.

5. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the spice powder. Sauté for 15 seconds, then quickly pour it over the ground paste and stir well.

6. Rub this paste liberally on the shrimp. Wrap them up neatly in the banana leaves, half in each leaf, and fold the leaves into tight parcels.

7. Place the parcels on a baking sheet and bake for 20 to 30 minutes.

8. Unwrap and serve immediately.

Meen Nirappiyathu

Mackerel stuffed with coconut masala and shallow-fried

We have used mackerel here because it is a nice oily fish. But you can use any oily fish, preferably one with a single center bone. And instead of pan-frying, you can broil them. Traditionally, the fish is roasted directly over a charcoal fire.

Serves 4.

8 (3-ounce/85-gram) mackerels, heads removed, cleaned

¼ cup (30 grams) grated fresh coconut (or frozen unsweetened coconut)

1-inch (2½-cm) piece fresh ginger, chopped

4 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

4 dried red chiles, stemmed

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

15 fresh curry leaves, chopped

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp

1 teaspoon table salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 lemons, cut into wedges

1. Trim off the fish fins with scissors, wash well, and drain. Slit each fish from the side and remove the center bone without damaging the fish, if possible. Make ¼-inch-deep (½-cm-deep) cuts on both sides of each fish.

2. Put the coconut, ginger, green chiles, dried chiles, cilantro, mint, curry leaves, tamarind pulp, salt, and 3 tablespoons water in a mini food processor, and process to a fine paste.

3. Stuff most of the paste into the fish and rub the rest on the outside. Arrange the fish on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and put in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour to marinate.

4. Place a medium nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, gently place the fish, two at a time, in the pan and cook each side for 3 to 4 minutes or until both sides are evenly golden brown. Drain on paper towels.

5. Arrange the fish on a platter, garnish with the lemon wedges, and serve hot.

Meen Vattichattu

A Kerala-style fish curry

Kerala is famous for its exotic
payasam
(rice dessert) as well as for its banana wafers and a vast variety of fish preparations such as this mildly tangy and spicy curry. Serve it with steamed rice.

Serves 4.

1 pound (500 grams)
surmai
(kingfish), cut into 2-inch-thick (5-cm-thick) fillets

Lemon-size ball of tamarind

1 tablespoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

¼ teaspoon ground fenugreek

5 tablespoons red chile paste (see Note page 13)

2 teaspoons table salt

2 teaspoons coconut oil

½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds

½ teaspoon
dhuli urad dal
(split skinless black gram)

10 to 12 fresh curry leaves

2 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken in half

1. Wash the fish under running water and drain well in a colander.

2. Soak the tamarind in 1 cup (200 ml) warm water for 15 minutes. Squeeze to remove the pulp, then strain it into a nonstick saucepan and discard the seeds and stringy solids. Add 2 cups (400 ml) water and stir well.

3. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil.

4. Meanwhile, combine the coriander, turmeric, and fenugreek in ¼ cup (50 ml) water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add this paste to the boiling tamarind water along with the chile paste and stir until all the ingredients are thoroughly combined. Simmer for 6 minutes or until the liquid is reduced by half.

5. Add the fish and cook for 7 minutes or until the fish is cooked through.

6. Place a small nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the coconut oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the mustard seeds. When they sputter, add the
dal,
curry leaves, and chiles. Sauté for 15 seconds, then add to the fish. Cover immediately to trap the flavors.

7. Serve hot.

Podichapa

Fish cooked in the Andhra style

Crisp pieces of fish briefly marinated in garlic and ginger are perfect for a quick snack. In Andhra Pradesh, this is enjoyed as a side with
dal
and rice.

Serves 4.

1 pound (500 grams)
rawas
(Indian salmon; see Note page 167) or regular salmon fillets, cut into 2½-inch (6-cm) pieces

1½ teaspoons table salt

5/8 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons red chile powder

4 teaspoons fresh garlic paste (page 12)

1 tablespoon fresh ginger paste (page 12)

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1½ teaspoons ground black pepper

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 quart (800 ml) vegetable oil

1. Put 5 cups (1 liter) water in a deep bowl, add ½ teaspoon of the salt and 1/8 teaspoon of the turmeric, and stir. Wash the fish pieces in the seasoned water and drain well in a colander.

2. Pat the fish pieces with an absorbent towel and put them in a bowl. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, remaining ½ teaspoon turmeric, the chile powder, garlic paste, ginger paste, coriander, pepper, and lemon juice, and stir well. Let stand for 10 minutes.

3. Place a nonstick wok over high heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, slide in the fish pieces, a few at a time. Cook, stirring with a slotted spoon, for 4 minutes. Remove with the slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

4. Serve hot.

Rawas Ambotik

Hot-and-sour salmon curry

Ambotik
is a combination of two words:
ambot,
meaning “sour,” and
tik,
meaning “spicy.”
Ambotik
preparations are Portuguese in origin, and the strong influence of that cuisine in India is evident in Goan cooking. Serve this dish with steamed rice.

Serves 4.

1¾ pounds (800 grams)
rawas
(Indian salmon; see Note page 167), or regular salmon fillets, cut into ½-inch-thick (1-cm-thick) slices

1½ teaspoons table salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 cup (120 grams) grated fresh coconut (or unsweetened frozen coconut)

2 large red onions, chopped

8 to 10 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken

1-inch (2½-cm) piece fresh ginger, chopped 8 to 10 cloves garlic, chopped

5 whole cloves

2-inch (5-cm) cinnamon stick

1½ tablespoons white vinegar

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 or 5 green chiles, stemmed and slit

1½ tablespoons tamarind pulp

1. Put the fish in a large bowl, add 1 teaspoon of the salt and the turmeric, toss to coat, and set aside to marinate for 20 minutes.

2. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat, add the coriander and cumin, and dry-roast for 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool completely.