How to Cook Indian (80 page)

Kaleji Ka Salan

Liver curry

In my early years of chef training, I was taught about “tandoor garnish,” which is basically a fresh salad that contains some mint sprigs. The salad varies from restaurant to restaurant, but it usually has slices of tomato, onion, and cucumber or a mixture of shredded cabbage, carrot, and other vegetables. But the mint sprig is in all of them, and there’s a reason why. Mint cleans the palate while you enjoy your meaty kebabs or tandoori chicken. It readies the taste buds for the next bite, and it is also a digestive aid. I have used the same principle in garnishing this dish, as liver tends to linger on the palate and the mint will be a welcome refreshment between bites. Serve with
roti
(page 18) or
parathas
(page 18).

Serves 4.

14 ounces (400 grams) lamb or chicken livers

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons table salt

1 teaspoon fresh ginger paste (page 12)

1 teaspoon fresh garlic paste (page 12)

1 teaspoon red chile powder

¾ cup (190 grams) plain yogurt

½ cup (100 ml) vegetable oil

2 medium red onions, thinly sliced

1½ teaspoons ground coriander

A few sprigs fresh mint

1. Cut the liver into ½-to 1-inch (1-to 2½-cm) pieces.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat and add 3 cups (600 ml) water. When the water comes to a boil, add the liver, ½ teaspoon of the turmeric, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cook over high heat for 10 minutes, skimming the foam from the surface with a slotted spoon occasionally. Drain in a colander and let cool.

3. Combine the ginger paste, garlic paste, chile powder, the remaining ½ teaspoon turmeric, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, the yogurt, and liver in a large bowl and set aside to marinate for 15 minutes.

4. Place a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the onions and cook for 6 to 8 minutes or until well browned.

5. Add the liver with the marinade and sauté for 8 to 10 minutes or until the excess water has evaporated. Add the coriander and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes.

6. Add 2 cups (400 ml) water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to low and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes or until the liver is cooked through.

7. Garnish with sprigs of mint and serve hot.

Kashmiri Gushtaba

Meatballs in yogurt curry

Most Indian regional cuisines have at least one dish of
koftas
—meatballs or vegetarian versions. This particular recipe is from the state of Kashmir and forms the concluding part of an exclusive ceremony called the Wazwan, a feast that can have up to thirty-six courses. This dish is served piping hot, and no one ever refuses it. It is often the last savory bite of the meal, followed by dessert and Kashmiri tea.

Serves 4.

1 quart (800 ml) vegetable oil

3 small red onions, sliced

1½ cups (375 grams) plain yogurt

1 teaspoon fresh garlic paste (page 12)

10 ounces (300 grams) boneless lamb from leg, fat reserved, cut into small pieces

1 teaspoon ground green cardamom

1 teaspoon table salt

3 tablespoons ghee (page 37)

3 cups (600 ml) lamb stock (page 35)

4 or 5 green cardamom pods

2 black cardamom pods

6 whole cloves

3½ teaspoons ground fennel seeds

1 tablespoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon dried mint

1. Place a wok over high heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the wok, add the onions and cook until browned. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Let cool, then transfer to a food processor with 3 tablespoons water and process to a fine paste.

2. Put the yogurt in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Add ½ cup (100 ml) water and whisk again.

3. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the yogurt mixture. Lower the heat to low and cook, stirring continuously, for 5 minutes.

4. Put the garlic paste in a small bowl, add ¼ cup (50 ml) water, and stir. Let stand for 10 minutes.

5. Put the lamb, 3 ounces of the reserved fat, the ground cardamom, and ¼ teaspoon of the salt on a cutting board, and pat with a meat mallet until the mixture becomes very soft and smooth.

6. Dip your hands in chilled water and divide the lamb mixture into 12 equal portions. Shape them into round balls.

7. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat. Add the yogurt mixture, the meatballs, ghee, and stock, and bring to a rapid boil. Lower the heat to medium, add the green and black cardamom pods, cloves, fennel, and ground ginger. Cover and boil for 10 to 12 minutes.

8. Add the garlic water and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt, and boil for 8 minutes. The mixture should have a souplike consistency.

9. Add the browned onion paste and cook until the meatballs are tender to the touch and the sauce has thickened.

10. Sprinkle with the mint and serve hot.

Khade Masale Ka Gosht

Lamb curry with whole spices

This is a basic lamb recipe that would be a good introduction for someone who is unfamiliar with Indian cooking. It uses most of the important spices
(khade masale
means “whole spices”), and the base is the onion-tomato sauce that is so essential to master when learning to cook Indian food.

Serves 4.

14 ounces (400 grams) boneless lamb, cut into 1-inch (2½-cm) cubes

2 teaspoons table salt

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

3 dried red chiles, stemmed and broken

10 whole black peppercorns

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

2 green cardamom pods

1 black cardamom pod

2 whole cloves

1-inch (2½-cm) cinnamon stick

1 bay leaf

1 medium red onion, chopped

1½-inch (4-cm) piece fresh ginger, chopped

7 or 8 cloves garlic, chopped

3 green chiles, stemmed and chopped Small pinch of ground mace

½ cup (125 grams) plain yogurt

1 medium tomato, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Place a nonstick saucepan over high heat and add 2½ cups (500 ml) water. Add the lamb, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and the turmeric. When the water comes to a boil, lower the heat to medium, cover, and cook for 45 minutes or until the lamb is cooked through.

2. Put the coriander, red chiles, and peppercorns in a spice grinder and grind to a coarse powder.

3. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cumin, green and black cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and bay leaf. Sauté for 1 minute or until fragrant.

4. Add the onion and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes or until golden brown.

5. Add the ginger, garlic, and green chiles, and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the lamb, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, the ground spices, and the mace.

6. Lower the heat to low and sauté, stirring continuously, for 6 to 8 minutes or until the lamb is browned. Remove from the heat, add the yogurt, and stir well. Return the pan to low heat and sauté for 6 to 8 minutes.

7. Add the tomato and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes or until the oil comes to the top.

8. Add 1 cup (200 ml) water, stir, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 12 minutes or until the lamb is tender and the sauce becomes semidry.

9. Garnish with the cilantro and serve hot.

Kheema Hara Dhania

Ground lamb cooked with cilantro and served with hard-boiled eggs

I remember my dad making this when I was as young as seven years old. He would sauté the ground lamb very patiently until it was aromatic and then he would tap the spatula on the side of the pan, giving us a signal that dinner was just about ready. Mom would proceed into the kitchen and quickly make a batch of hot
rotis
(page 18). Fresh, wonderful food made lovingly–these are my fondest memories.

Serves 4.

2-inch (5-cm) piece fresh ginger, chopped

4 cloves garlic, chopped

3 tablespoons ghee (page 37)

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

3 or 4 green cardamom pods

1-inch (2½-cm) cinnamon stick

4 to 6 whole cloves

3 medium red onions, chopped

5 green chiles, stemmed and chopped

14 ounces (400 grams) ground lamb

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1½ teaspoons table salt

¼ teaspoon ground turmeric

7 or 8 black peppercorns, crushed

1 teaspoon
garam masala
(spice mix; page 27)

1 cup (60 grams) chopped fresh cilantro

4 eggs, hard-boiled, peeled, and quartered

1. Put the ginger and garlic in a spice grinder with 1 tablespoon water and grind to a paste.

2. Place a nonstick saucepan over medium heat and add the ghee. When small bubbles appear at the bottom of the pan, add the cumin seeds, cardamom, cinnamon, and cloves, and sauté for 30 seconds or until fragrant. Add the ginger-garlic paste and sauté for 30 seconds.

3. Add the onions and chiles, and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes or until the onions are golden brown.

4. Add the lamb and increase the heat to high. Cook, stirring continuously, for 10 minutes.

5. Add the coriander, salt, and turmeric, and stir well. Stir in 1½ cups (300 ml) cups water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 40 minutes or until the lamb is cooked through.

6. Add the peppercorns and
garam masala,
and stir. Add the cilantro and stir well. Cook until the excess liquid has evaporated.

7. Transfer to a serving bowl. Garnish with the eggs and serve hot.