India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (130 page)

The Grand Pavilion
INDIAN Okay, this may not be grand in the decor sense, but the Keralite and Indian food is delicious. And cheap. Which is why the place is always jam-packed with locals, and apparently has been since the ’60s when The Grand really was. Seafood is superb, with the signature
karimeen pollichathu
a definite must-have. If you’re not feeling that hungry, start with a plate of
chemeen ularthiyathu
(tiny prawns; ask that they not be too spicy), then follow with vegetable stew to be mopped up with the most delectable crisp-edged, soft-centered
appams,
and a plate of tender
malai
chicken, prepared in the tandoor, and served with mint sauce. All that food, and still the bill won’t top Rs 700 for two. A huge dining hall, filled to the brim with a loyal Indian clientele, and faultless food makes this 20-minute trip from Fort Kochi most definitely worth it. Make sure you book ahead.

M.G. Rd., Ernakulam.
0484/238-2061.
www.grandhotelkerala.com
. Main courses Rs 75–Rs 150. MC, V. Daily 12:30–4pm and 7–11:30pm.

The History & Terrace Grill
KERALITE Two restaurants in one, more or less. The Terrace Grill (closed during the monsoon) has a great location overlooking busy Vypin boat jetty and the waterfront, and you can spend hours watching the passing parade while you feast on the superb signature seafood platters, filled with lobster, tiger prawns, scampi, squid (a little tough), and the catch of the day. Order a combination of “Mattancherry Spiced,” for some local flavor, and the more subtle lemon garlic butter. If the mosquitoes become bothersome, you may decide to move inside to The History where you can continue your meal to the accompaniment of live traditional classical music. The History feels like a large, elegant old-world dining hall, and has a much more varied menu (although you can’t
order
the Terrace Grill’s seafood platter here), with most of the recipes borrowed from the kitchens of Kochi families. New chef Ajeeth Janardmanan has spent much of 2009 visiting local Kochi families to unearth recipes that might otherwise end up lost to the world—if you’re at all interested, call him over and find out about his discoveries, and then let your taste buds decide.

Brunton Boatyard, 1/498 Fort Kochi.
0484/221-5461
through -5465. Main courses Rs 300–Rs 750; seafood platter Rs 1,200–1,400. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7:30–10:30pm.

Malabar Junction
MEDITERRANEAN FUSION Along with
Rice Boat
(Taj Malabar’s pretty restaurant), this is Kochi’s answer to fine dining, though here it is alfresco, with guests seated in the small, lush courtyard area, watching (at night) a performance on the adjacent stage, the hotel and plants lit up to great effect. The atmosphere is very romantic, and if you can’t decide between Indian, Keralite, or European food, this is the place to be—there’s good variety, from the decadent Fisherman’s Dream (a plate of tiger prawns and red snapper) to the gourmet Malabar burger (prime beef with green pepper and chili sauce, served with okra and ginger-flavored tomato sorbet). Chef Biju also likes to show off his diverse talents with a couple of degustation menus; we’d opt for the six-course classical version, which includes a wonderful tiger prawn curry. Top the evening off with homemade ginger and pepper ice-cream, and then slink upstairs to
Divine,
the hot new wine lounge (see “Kochi After Dark,” below).

The Malabar House, 1/268–269 Parade Rd., Fort Kochi.
0484/221-6666.
Main courses Rs 380–Rs 600, seafood platter Rs 1,500, degustation menu Rs 1,100–Rs 2,000. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7am–midnight.

1788
KERALITE/FUSION This breezy inside-outside restaurant at Old Harbour Hotel has the most intriguing menu in Kochi; the chef hails from Puducherry and clearly has a profound love of experimenting with local traditions, gearing them up for a fine dining experience by giving them an international spin. You might be tempted to dive head first into the seafood platter (you can even preorder a specific fish and hope it’s caught the day you dine), but it would be a shame not to taste crab
ularthiyathu,
cooked in an earthenware urn with a spicy masala (so not really for delicate palates), or the Cochin shrimp curry, or home-reared Kerala duck curry, or the coconut fish. If you’re keeping away from the spices and curries, then there’s a marvelous crab risotto, or pumpkin
olan,
which is typically Keralite, made with semiripe pumpkin and lentils. Finish off with chocolate soup, made with homemade ice cream and nuts and flavored with cardamom and ask for a table near the lotus pond—on most nights in season you’ll be serenaded by flute and tabla players.

Old Harbour Hotel, 1/328 Tower Rd., Fort Kochi.
0484/221-8006.
Reservations essential Dec and Jan. Main courses Rs 330–Rs 550, tiger prawns Rs 660, jumbo prawns Rs 770, mixed platter Rs 1,050, seafood platter Rs 1,350. MC, V. Daily 7:30–10:30am, noon–3pm, and 7:30–10:30pm.

SHOPPING

With the exception of Cinnamon (see below), where Bangalore-based buyers show off their exceptional eye for modern Indian design, and a small branch of the ever-popular
Fabindia
(1/279 Napier St.;
0484/221-7077;
www.fabindia.com
), Fort Kochi itself caters primarily to mass tourist tastes. The goods for sale are neither cheap nor exceptional. You’ll have far more fun exploring the antiques dealerships in neighboring Mattancherry, most of which are jam-packed with weird, wonderful, and genuine pieces from Kerala’s multifangled past; catch a rickshaw to Crafters (see below), then wander around this area. The biggest outfit in the area, Crafters is less likely to offer discounts, but dig around the dark corners of the little shops tucked around this legendary antiques shop, and bargain hard: Try offering half of the quoted price, and settle halfway between the two. If you’d like to do your shopping in slightly more salubrious environs, then definitely set aside some time for
Ethnic Passage
(see below). Also in Jew Town and worth popping into is
Galleria Synagogue Art Gallery
(
0484/222-2544
), where local artists are well represented; art and antiques lovers should also check out
Lawrence Art Gallery
in Synagogue Lane (
0484/222-3657
). Finally, do stop off at
Traveller’s Paradise
(see below)—you may go in only to support a worthy cause, but you’ll probably emerge with bulging eco-friendly bags.