India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (141 page)

Marari Beach, Mararikulum, Alleppey.
97-4429-7123.
www.abeachsymphony.com
. 4 units, all with shower only. Nov–Mar Rs 10,000–Rs 12,500 double, Apr–Oct Rs 7,500 double. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. MC, V.
Amenities:
In-house dining; airport transfers (Rs 1,700–Rs 2,500);
bicycles; large outdoor pool; room service; yoga. In room A/C and fans, hair dryer (on request), no phone.

Marari Beach
This is a truly great eco-friendly resort, with easy, direct access to a 25km (16-mile) beach shared only with fellow guests, local fishermen, and the resort’s vigilant lifeguards. Spread over 15 hectares (36 acres) of lawns and pathways enveloped by coconut groves, it has a big-resort vibe, with 62 comfortable and very spacious stand-alone thatched cottages, designed like fisherman’s houses—interiors are pretty simple and unfettered and with partially alfresco showers. For environmental reasons, everything is set very far back from the beach; you can hardly see the sea, even from the best rooms (which happen to be nos. 18–20, located along the beach-facing front, and conveniently located near the bar, restaurants, and pool), although the dull roar of the ocean is ever-present. But the sea is just one of Marari’s many laid-back charms, from great tours to Kochi, Alleppey, and further afield to slick cooking demonstrations. The extensive Ayurvedic center (Green Leaf) is also considered one of Kerala’s best, serviced by excellent doctors and therapists who offer wonderful pampering at really reasonable rates.

Mararikulam, Alleppey 688 549, Kerala.
0478/286-3801
through -3809. Fax 0478/286-3810.
www.cghearth.com
. 62 units. Nov–Apr 329€–349€ garden villa double, 509€–579€ garden pool villa double, 579€–649€ deluxe pool villa double, 82€ extra person; May–Oct Rs 9,210 garden villa double, Rs 12,545 garden pool villa double, Rs 14,385 deluxe pool villa double, Rs 2,860 extra person. Rates include all meals and taxes. Breakfast-only rates available. Discounts for stays of 7 nights or more in high season. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants, TV lounge w/DVD library, 2 bars; airport transfers (Rs 2,000–Rs 3,200); Ayurvedic center; badminton; beach volleyball; bicycles; cooking demonstrations; cultural workshops; library; huge outdoor pool; recreation room; 2 tennis courts; Wi-Fi (in recreation room; Rs 100/hr.); yoga. In room: A/C, hair dryer, minibar.

It’s a Homestay, But That’s Not All . . .

Visitors to
Motty’s Homestay Villas
tend to fall in love with their hosts, Motty and Lali, and many return time and again to experience the warmth and authentic Keralite welcome to their Syrian Christian heritage home in Alleppey. There are four spacious wood-floor rooms, with family heirlooms (Motty is a collector), antique beds (although mattresses and pillows could be better), and private veranda (Rs 6,000 double with breakfast and dinner). Lali is a guru in the kitchen, preparing awesome Keralite feasts and sharing her recipes with you before you leave; Lali will even show women how to don a sari so they can look the part. This couple seems to genuinely love having you around, and Motty regularly bundles guests into the car for a short orientation of the town. Children are well looked after and treated as part of the family. Besides the Alleppey homestay which is just 4km (2 1⁄2 miles) from the beach, Motty also has a stake in
A Beach Symphony,
four wonderfully renovated fisherman’s cottages at right on Marari beach—perfect if you’re looking for a more independent, escapist vibe (reviewed). Then, for the complete Kerala Backwater’s experience, you can top off your visit with a night aboard Motty’s
houseboat,
manned by a duo that also cooks up a storm (Rs 5,500 double, including all meals; A/C extra). Although at press time his website was still a bit of a muddle, you can check it all out at
www.alleppeybeach.com
—click on “Stay with Host,” for the homestay—or call Motty at
0477/224-3535
or 98-4703-2836.

In Alleppey

Raheem Residency
A great little guesthouse, located opposite the main Alappuzha beach, with a very organized travel desk to arrange all your sightseeing, be it shopping for temple umbrellas in town, arranging a four-stop temple walking tour, riding an elephant, or booking a short- or long-term houseboat cruise. The bungalow, built in 1868 by Gujurati traders, was skillfully renovated in 2003 to create seven gracious bedrooms catering to guests looking for low-key boutique-style digs. The highlight of your stay is likely to be dinner, taken early on the covered rooftop and the perfect theater seat from which to watch locals thronging to the beach at sunset (particularly on a Sun) or, on the other end, spy on young adults receiving their first driving lessons, carefully avoiding the boys playing cricket in the dusty park. By no means a five-star hotel, but with attentive and helpful staff, the only drawback can sometimes be noise from revelers on the street—ask for one of the newer superior deluxe rooms around the internal courtyard to avoid any such disturbance.

Beach Rd., Alleppey 688 012.
/fax
0477/223-9767
or -0767.
www.raheemresidency.com
. 10 units, most with tub. Oct–Apr 140€–170€ deluxe double, 170€–210€ superior deluxe double; May–Sept 90€ deluxe double, 110€ superior deluxe double; 30€ extra bed. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. 2-night minimum stay Dec 15–Jan 15; no children under 15 Oct–Apr. MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant, library lounge; airport transfers (Rs. 1,700); Ayurvedic center; babysitting; bicycles; Internet (broadband; free); outdoor pool; room service; yoga. In room: A/C and fans, TV (in Begum’s Nook only), hair dryer.