India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (161 page)
Getting the Most out of Kozhikode
Since tourism in Kozhikode has never been a major industry, it takes local smarts to get the lowdown on the city, learn about its historically significant places and know how to bargain properly in its best markets and shops. The best local guide is
Mr. Mohan,
and you’ll need to book him in advance to accompany you as you explore by car (which you must arrange); he’ll charge around Rs 500 for half a day; call him at
94-4607-8996,
or have the folks at Harivihar make all the arrangements.
In the Wyanad
It takes about 2 hours to drive the 90km (56 miles) from the coastal city of Kozhikode to
Vythiri,
the nearest village to many of Wyanad’s resorts, the best of which is
Tranquil
(reviewed below). Note that the owners of Green Magic Nature Resort—once considered “the best tree-house experience in Asia,” but which received some bad press in recent years—have recently launched a sequel to their first project.
Green Magic Nature Resort 2
offers an altogether more rustic treetop stay than you’ll get at Tranquil, but if you choose to investigate further, start at
www.tourindiakerala.com
. Besides Tranquil, which is a marvelous place to discover plantation life while chilling out (and eating well) in a veritable rainforest, you may want to check out the 36-unit
Vythiri Resort
(04936/25-5366
or -5367;
www.vythiriresort.com
), not least for its excellent Serena spa with Ayurvedic facilities. If it’s not too crowded, the atmosphere can be enchanting (if totally resortlike), with monkeys playing in the trees, and a rope bridge over the fast-moving stream leading to the restaurant and pool. Doubles cost around Rs 6,500 but for an extra Rs 1,000 you can stay in a suite; all meals are included, as is morning yoga and meditation. There’s also a chance to stay in one of their ingenious treehouses, smartly decorated and taking full advantage of their setting right in the midst of the forest; Rs 12,500 gets you a memorable night high above the forest floor, with matchless morning views into the thick, slowly clearing mist.
One drawback:
This resort is extremely popular with large family and tour groups, especially in the summer, so if you’re looking for a little more peace and quiet, head instead to
Edakkal Hermitage
(reviewed below), which really puts you far off the beaten track and in the lap of mesmerizing scenery just 12km (7 1⁄2 miles) from the town of Sultan’s Battery. Another good choice that’s wonderfully intimate is
Fringe Ford(Cherrakarra P.O., Talapoya Post, Mananthavadi;98-4544-2224
), a colonial bungalow situated on a 400-hectare (1,000-acre) estate that’s fabulously cut off from the world, but doesn’t hold back on home comforts and excellent scenery. Built by a British settler almost a century ago, Fringe Ford was initially cultivated for pepper, cardamom, and coffee but the current owner has let the jungle reclaim most of that—now, once again, elephants, leopards, and giant Malabar squirrels call the rain-soaked hills home. Doubles run Rs 4,000 to Rs 5,700, including all meals, tea, and snack, and a pickup from Thalapoya, the nearest village; the rate also includes the services of a guide for treks within the estate.
Edakkal Hermitage
Located near the Edakkal Caves (where Neolithic carvings are a fleeting distraction from natural beauty), this is a rustic hermitage in the true sense. Each of the simple, neat cottages (with wooden floors and basic tiled washrooms) is named after a world-famous cave site; most have huge windows affording extraordinary views of the Western Ghats. Although the rooms themselves are nothing special (except perhaps for the giant naturally occurring boulders that burst through the wall), you should book either Lascaux or adjacent Chauvet—the gigantic rocks out front form natural terraces. Or, for better privacy, ask for the hilltop twin cottage, but prepare for a serious climb up. The treehouse is more suitable as a thrilling adventure for youngsters than a place you want to relax in (there’s no hot water). Meals are for some the biggest joy here—on your first night, you dine by candlelight in a natural cave; it’s an utterly romantic experience. A laid-back, battery-recharging kind of place—bring a pile of books and prepare to lose track of time.
Wyanad 673 592.04936/26-1178.
Reservations:04936/22-1860,
04936/26-0123, 98-4700-1491 or 94-4726-2570.
www.edakkal.com
. 7 units. Rs 3,450–Rs 4,500 double, Rs 1,000 extra person. Rates include all meals and taxes. MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant, TV lounge; transfers (Rs 15/km.); Ayurvedic massage center; badminton; table tennis. In room: No phone.