India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (221 page)

C. L. Badari, Malakpet.
040/2452-3211.
www.salarjungmuseum.in
. Admission Rs 150. Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm, 4:15pm last entry. There is also a separate entrance to view the famed jewels of the Nizams for which the admission is Rs 500, Sat–Thurs 11am–6pm. Cameras not allowed.

Asthmatics Say “Aaah!”

One of the world’s largest alternative medicinal gatherings takes place annually at
Nampally Exhibition Grounds
in Hyderabad, usually on June 7 or 8. Just as the monsoon sets in and brings with it all sorts of seasonal respiratory illnesses, hundreds of thousands of asthmatics from all over India flock to the city to receive an unusual cure administered orally by the Bathini Goud brothers. A special herbal medicine, prepared by using water from the family well only, is stuffed into the mouth of a 2- or 3-inch murrel (sardine). The fish is then slipped into the patient’s mouth, who swallows the slithering creature alive (the Gouds claim that the wriggling fish increases the efficacy of the medicine because it clears the patient’s throat; for those who are strict vegetarians or particularly squeamish, a banana acts as a substitute, albeit a poor one). The result: For more than 162 years, countless people have reported relief from a variety of respiratory-type disorders. Said to have been given to an ancestor of the present-day Gouds by a Hindu holy man back in 1845, the secret formula has been passed down through the generations and administered free of charge in accordance with the saint’s wishes. Visit
www.bathinifish.com
for details.

WHERE TO STAY

At press time, exquisite
Falaknuma Palace
(Tank Bund Rd.), a work of astonishing architectural opulence that has hosted the likes of King George V, was in the process of being converted into a heritage hotel by the Taj hotel group. This is likely to be the best place to stay in Hyderabad when it opens in 2011; visit
www.tajhotels.com
for ongoing developments. Other than our recommendations below, you could opt for
Green Park
(Begumpet;
040/2375-7575;
www.hotelgreenpark.com
; doubles from Rs 6,250), which is very good value for its location and excellent service and facilities—all that’s missing is a pool.

Aalankrita
A doctor couple infatuated with antique furniture went on a buying spree almost a decade ago until they found they had no more space to keep their treasured finds, so they bought some land, built one room styled as a typical village house, with antique stairs, frames, and doors—all this multiplied, and today they own a full-blown resort. Lovely antiques, mostly from the Chettinad region in Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Rajasthan, are in all the rooms (sadly a dearth of art), and there’s also an Ayurvedic massage center, beautiful gardens, friendly staff, and good cuisine. Accommodation is available as independent cottages (Gruha) as well as rooms in a main block (Devkrupa). Designed to resemble a village, it’s replete with a traditional
mandapam,
where Indian marriages can take place—if you’d rather not become an inadvertent wedding guest, check before confirming your booking.

20 min. from Secunderabad Club, Shameerpet Rd., Thumkunta Village, Shameerpet Mandal, R.R. District 500 078.
08418-247464/161/162.
Fax 08418-247013/014.
www.aalankrita.com
. 112 units. Rs 3,000 standard room; Rs 3,500 executive room; Rs 3,750 studio cottage; Rs 4,000 penthouse; Rs 4,500 deluxe cottage; Rs 8,500 crystal suite; Rs 12,000 presidential suite; Rs 1,000 extra bed. Rates include breakfast and taxes. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
3 restaurants; lounge bar; airport transfer (Rs 1,250); arts and crafts gallery; Internet (Rs 100/hr.); meditation center; playground; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (on request).

Hyderabad Marriott Hotel & Convention Centre
Yet another bid to appeal to their target—the business traveler—Marriott now boasts the largest convention center in the country. Given its location next to the Hussain Sagar Lake, it’s almost a sure shot that most rooms will have a good view. Combine that with plush decor, prompt service, and the recently introduced Revive bed—sink into luxurious comfort bedecked in the finest linen and designer duvets—and you’ve got a good deal in hand, albeit in an environment repeated everywhere in the world. As the rooms are a little small, you may want to fork out a little extra to stay at the exclusive executive level, with a very beautiful lounge offering all possible amenities to pamper you and spacious rooms done in earthy tones, dark wood and marble.

Opposite Hussain Sagar Lake, Tank Bund Rd., Hyderabad 500 080.
040/2752-2999.
Fax 040/2752-8888.
http://marriott.com
. 293 units. Doubles from $212—$273. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; bar; airport transfer (Rs 3,385); doctor-on-call; fitness center; pool; Wi-Fi (Rs 441/hr., Rs 882/day). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet broadband connection (Rs 414/hr., Rs 827/day).

Ista
As you drive to this brand-new business hotel, an amazing paradox greets you—massive cranes shape steel-and-chrome giants for the biggest companies in the world, amid century old boulders and shrubbery dotting the landscape—it is by far the most interesting place to stay if you want to be anywhere near what is shaping up to be as the future Hyderabad. Under the flagship of the award winning Ananda in the Himalayas, Ista is spread over 7 hectares (17 acres) of greenery and boulders. It’s functional and smart, although a wee bit dull. Rooms are a bit small and need better soundproofing—opt for the luxury category which come with porches, wooden floors, large walk-in closets, stylish lighting, and for once, a terrific office chair at the desk. It may be a good half-hour away from the city but you have the best spa in town to come back to!