India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (256 page)

The Gateway Hotel Fatehbad Road Agra
Don’t be put off by the unattractive exterior of this, one of the first big tourist hotels to be built in Agra; what looks a bit like a 1970s apartment block offers a wide range of amenities and comfortable guest rooms, the best of which offer views of the monument you’re in town to see—at a fraction of the cost of both ITC Mughal and Amarvilas (though in truth, there’s no comparison in terms of design, luxury, or proximity). It’s worth reserving a Taj-facing room (room 518 has the best view) but bear in mind that it’s around 1km (1⁄2 mile) away. Generally, the deluxe rooms have more appeal, with marble floors and colorful throws and cushions, but they aren’t that much different from the slightly smaller, cheaper superior rooms. With extensive landscaped lawns and a marble pool with its own swim-up bar, this is a fair place to come home to after the rush of sightseeing.

Fatehabad Rd., Taj Ganj, Agra 282 001.
0562/223-2400
through -2418. Fax 0562/223-2420.
www.tajhotels.com
. 100 units. Rs 7,100 standard double; Rs 7,850 superior double; Rs 8,850 executive double Rs 19,000 executive suite; Rs 1,200 extra bed. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; bar; airport transfer (Rs 750); astrologer; babysitting; cultural performances by arrangement; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; health club and spa; Internet (Rs 250/hr., Rs 750/day); outdoor pool; putting green; room service; outdoor tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Trident Agra
This is our second favorite hotel in Agra, predominantly because of the service levels, which are a great deal slicker than anywhere else in this price category—hardly surprising given that Trident is part of the distinguished Oberoi group (of which Amarvilas is their Agra flagship). In a low-key attempt to emulate Agra’s architectural heritage, this hotel uses the same red sandstone favored by the Mughal kings, but that’s where the similarity ends. In fact, the moment you step into the lobby, you’ll feel thoroughly located in the 21st century. Guest rooms use vibrant colors to inject energy into the otherwise ordinary spaces; the effect is refreshing, although hardly a stand-in for a bedside view of the Taj. Accommodations are arranged around a central garden, with manicured lawns, trimmed hedges, and a swimming pool; try to reserve a room facing this.

Taj Nagri Scheme, Fatehabad Rd., Agra 282 001.
0562/233-5000
. Fax 0562/233-1827.
www.tridenthotels.com
. 138 units. Rs 8,500 deluxe garden view double; Rs 9,200 deluxe pool-view double; Rs 14,500 suite; no extra beds. Actual rate varies daily. Taxes extra. A friendly child policy is offered. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; airport transfer (Rs 790); babysitting; doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 200/hr., Rs 700/day); kids club; outdoor pool; room service; table tennis. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr., Rs 700/day).

Inexpensive

If you’re watching your rupees but want to be near the Taj, the Hotel Sheela (reviewed below) is less than 2 minutes’ walk from the entrance; it’s ideal for travelers who can put up with absolute basics. But our budget preference is for
Hotel Amar
(Tourist Complex Area, Fatehabad Rd.;
0562/233-1884
through -1889;
www.hotelamar.com
). Away from the main hype, but around a 10-minute walk from the Taj, it offers clean but basic rooms with en-suite bathrooms; amenities include a pool, and there’s regular hot water. All the rooms may be noisy given the proximity of traffic: Be sure to insist on an upstairs room looking toward the pool, which is well maintained and sets the Amar apart from the other faceless options along busy Fatehabad Road. Doubles start at Rs 3,600. (It may be worth checking the Howard Park Plaza rates before booking anywhere else though, as they sometimes offer specials that beat even the budget lodgings—for contact details see above, under moderate options.)

Hotel Sheela
The best (and only) reason to stay here is its proximity to the Taj Mahal. This peaceful ocher-colored complex offers very basic accommodations in a pleasant garden courtyard surrounded by trees. Guest rooms are very spartan, and bathrooms tiny (no hot water). Beds are firm with thin mattresses, but you’re provided with bedding. Reserve well ahead for one of only two units that have A/C. Rooms are en-suite and are relatively clean but hot water is only available in winter. Cheaper guest rooms have fans and mosquito screens over the windows, and a few more rooms have aging air coolers. Service standards are generally in keeping with the ultralow tariffs; keep in mind that you will have to lug your luggage about 300m (984 ft.), as the hotel is now in the no-vehicle zone.

East Gate, Taj Ganj, Agra 282 001.
0562/233-1194.
www.hotelsheelaagra.com
. 22 units. Rs 400–Rs 500 double; Rs 600 air-cooler double; Rs 800 A/C double. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Restaurant. In room: A/C (2 rooms), air cooler (some).

WHERE TO DINE

Dining (and nightlife) options are limited in Agra, with little stand-alone choice. Even if you’re not staying at Amarvilas,
Esphahan
(reviewed below)
is definitely worth a splurge. Among the dining options in the other big hotels, one of the finest remains
Peshawri
in the Mughal Sheraton, still a firm favorite among locals in the know, or
Mughal Room
in the Clarks Shiraz, where live
ghazals
(poetry readings) add to the experience, although needs a bit of an acquired taste.