India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (29 page)

It’s likely you’ll have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance (see “Insurance” in chapter 16).

We list
hospitals
and
emergency numbers
under “Fast Facts” in the individual chapters.

Pack
prescription medications
in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—otherwise they won’t make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

6 Safety

Considering its poverty and population size, India enjoys an amazingly low incidence of violent crime, and the vast majority of visits to India tend to be trouble-free. That said, the usual rules apply—no wandering around back alleys at night, for example, no flashing of valuables or wads of cash. Foreign visitors may be targeted by corrupt cops looking to get a handsome bribe or payoff, so you’d best steer clear of any suspicious behavior such as purchasing illegal drugs. If you’re caught, even with marijuana, there is a good chance that you could be thrown in prison. If you’re involved in a car accident, have your hotel manager report the incident immediately. Avoid provocative debates and arguments where alcohol may be involved. Exercise caution during festivals and religious processions, where crowds are usually overwhelming and can become unruly.

TERRORISM & CIVIL UNREST
The ugly multipronged assault by Pakistani-trained gunmen on Mumbai in November 2008 (known in India as 26/11) devastated not only two of the city’s most celebrated luxury hotels, but also targeted several other key tourist spots, including the historic Victoria Terminus train station. Indian authorities have taken these attacks—and earlier incidents, such as the bombing of Mumbai commuter trains on July 2006, and the bombing of the Indian Parliament in December 2001—to heart, and security has been visibly beefed up not only in Mumbai but in key centers around the country. This has meant that India is in fact a great deal safer than before. The exception to this is the northernmost state of Jammu and Kashmir, where the terrorist organization Harakat Ul Mujahideen has issued a ban on Westerners, including tourists. With the exception of the eastern district of Ladakh, avoid travel in this volatile and unsafe war-torn region, no matter what tour operators and tourist offices have to say; regular terrorist attacks continue to occur in Kashmir, and civilians are often targets. Travelers should also exercise extreme caution when undertaking treks and travel to remote parts of Ladakh, where solo travelers are not permitted and can potentially be targeted by terrorist factions; in isolated cases, unaccompanied trekkers have been kidnapped or simply disappeared. Travelers to Goa and Himachal Pradesh should stay clear of any drug-related activity—the trade has begun to attract nasty criminal elements. Travel to the northeastern states of Assam, Manipur, Nagaland, Tripura, and Meghalaya remains risky due to sporadic incidents of ethnic insurgent violence. These areas—and Kashmir—have not been included in this guide.

Almost anywhere in India, communal violence can occur without advance warning, but such incidents rarely involve foreigners, and thus far there have been no attacks by Indians directed against Americans or other foreigners. That said, the threat here—as anywhere in the world—should not be ignored completely: Exercise vigilance and caution if you find yourself near any government installations or tourist attractions that might be regarded as potential terrorist targets; avoid political demonstrations, read the local papers, heeding any relevant reports and travel advisories. Access up-to-the-minute travel warnings at
www.travel.state.gov
. U.S. citizens can also contact the U.S. Embassy
or the nearest U.S. Consulate for more information about the current situation in areas you plan to visit.

CRIME
India is one of the safest destinations in the world when it comes to violent assault or threat, but petty crime, like pickpocketing, can be a problem. Apply
common sense at all times. Don’t carry wallets prominently; and keep a firm hand on purses (women have reported having their purse straps cut or purse bottoms slit). Don’t wear flashy jewelry or carry around other valuables. Most hotels have in-room electronic safes where you should stash valuables, including passports and most of your cash. Be discreet about your money, and never take out large wads of cash in public; exercise modesty at all times. Solo travelers are at greater risk of becoming victims of crime; unless you’re relatively streetwise, touring India alone may be more pain than pleasure. But know that it is as a victim of a scam that you are most at risk, which at least hurts nothing but your pocket and your pride; see “Surviving Scams & Con Artists,” below.

DISCRIMINATION

Africans, African Americans, and other black travelers may sometimes face discrimination, particularly in smaller towns or nightclubs in larger cities, though this is not widespread. Some blacks and travelers from other Asian countries have also faced racist name-calling in India, usually from groups of young men in the street, completely ignorant of difference, and who are best ignored. Single female travelers do need to be careful (see section on “Women Travelers,” below.)

Surviving Scams & Con Artists

In India, scamming is an art form—and you, the tourist, are a prime target. Although it’s okay to have a heart, don’t fall into the costly pit of naiveté.
Politeness is likely to be your enemy.
If someone tells you upfront that he’s not interested in your money, the warning bells should begin to sound; 9 times out of 10, a casual conversation or unintentional tour will end with a request for payment. Remember:
Don’t pay for services you have not requested.
And when you do ask for help, ask if there’s going to be a demand for money at the end, and
decide on a help fee upfront.
Rude as it seems, often the only way to get rid of a persistent tout, beggar, or con artist is to
ignore him and
keep walking without pause.
Here then is a guide to India’s most common scams:

* Street touts
Touts operate under guises of initial friendship, wanting to practice their English or making promises of cheap accommodations or shopping. Often (but not always), the initial kindness turns sour when you don’t comply with a suggestion that you buy something or check in at a crummy hotel. When browsing a street or market, you will be accosted by what appears to be the owner of the shop but is in fact one of a host of men to whom shopkeepers pay a commission to bring you inside—“to look, no buy, madam.” Since scam artists know that foreigners rely on hired transport, you also need to be particularly wary when considering car hire, taxis, guides, sightseeing tours, or travel agents. The rule is: Never jump into a deal.

* “Official” unofficial operators
Even more annoying than the slippery-tongued con artists of the street are those who operate under the guise of perceived legitimacy by calling themselves “travel agents” or “tour operators”—and a sign saying “government-approved” often means anything but. Before purchasing anything, you need to know in advance what the going rate is, and preferably deal with someone who comes recommended by this book or a reputable operator recommended by your hotel. Time allowing, shop around.

* Dealing with drivers
Taxi drivers are notorious for telling passengers that their hotel does not exist or has closed for some reason. Never allow yourself to be taken to a hotel or restaurant unless it is the one you’ve asked to be taken to (specified by exact name and address). Note that any successful establishment will soon have competition opening with a similar or almost identical name. Drivers also moonlight as restaurant and shop touts and receive a commission for getting you through the door. If a taxi driver is very persuasive about taking you to a particular shop, this is a sure sign that you’re about to be taken for a ride. Taxi drivers often have meters that have been tampered with, or refuse to use fare-conversion charts issued by the city authority. Whenever you’re suspicious about a driver’s conduct, ask to be let out of the vehicle immediately, or seek the assistance of your hotel manager before paying the cab fare. When arriving at major airports and train stations, make use of
prepaid taxis
(the booths are clearly marked) whenever possible. Whenever you hire a local taxi, make sure that no one but the driver is riding with you. Even if you are just one person in the back seat, do not under any circumstances agree to allow the driver’s friend to ride along. Get out and take another cab if necessary.

* Bargains
Beware of unmarked wares—this means the goods are priced according to the salesperson’s projection of your ability to pay. Also beware of the ultimate “bargain.” Any deal that seems too good to be true, is. If this all sounds too tedious, head for the government shops, where goods are sold at fixed prices that are not a rip-off despite sometimes higher prices (see “The Battle of the Haggle,” earlier in this chapter). But again, beware of imitations, such as Cottage Industries Exposition, often only marked “CIE,” which are seriously overpriced outlets that cash in on the fame of the good-value government-owned Central Cottage Industries Emporiums.

* Credit card fraud
Beware of unscrupulous traders who run off extra dockets, then forge your signature. Never let your credit card out of sight.

* Creating needs
Sometimes a trickster will create your need for certain goods or services. One common Delhi scam is run by shoeshine boys who suddenly appear with their polishing equipment and point to your shoes which, when you look down, suddenly have poop on them. Of course he’ll offer to clean it off for you, which you should refuse; the source of the poop is almost certainly the little guy himself or his accomplice.

* Noting your notes
Recognizing the insecurity that comes with dealing with an unfamiliar currency, swindlers will switch your Rs 500 note with a Rs 100 note and then claim that that’s what you gave them. When handing out a fare or paying for a purchase, preferably give the whole amount together rather than handing over each note as you dig it up from your purse or pocket. Also, when you hand over a Rs 500 or Rs 1,000 note, state aloud how much it is.

* Getting the goods on precious goods
If you’re shopping for
silk carpets,
ask the salesman to razor a small sample and light it with a match. Unlike wool, silk does not burn, it smolders. Tricksters will mix silk and wool—which is why you’ll need to ask for a sample across the whole color range. And don’t fall for anyone who tries to persuade you to purchase
precious stones
on the premise that you can resell them at a profit to a company they supposedly know back home (a Jaipur scam). Note that
gold
is imported and therefore hugely overpriced, so cheap gold jewelry is exactly that.

* Drugged foods and scam doctors
Be wary when offered food or drink by a stranger. There have been isolated incidences of travelers being drugged or poisoned in order to rob them. Worse still, there are well-documented (though again isolated) accounts of these scammers who then recommend a fraudulent doctor, who will contact your medical insurance company and keep you ill while running up a substantial medical bill.

7 Specialized Travel Resources