India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (290 page)

The cutting, polishing, and selling of gems and the making of silver jewelry take place in the predominantly Muslim area of Pahar Ganj in the
Surajpol Bazaar.
Jewelry designers from all over the world continue to nurture the superlative gem-cutting and -setting skills of these craftspeople, but here, as in Johari Bazaar, be aware that bargains are hard to come by—more often than not, you really do get what you pay for. If you’re knowledgeable enough, shop for gems and jewelry in the bazaars, but for most, a trip to the shops listed below is recommended.

Fabric is another must-buy, as the finest quality silk, chiffon, and cotton are transformed through traditional block printing and tie-and-dye techniques into intricately patterned fabrics with vibrant contrasts and colors. The finest tie-dye process is known as
bandhani
(literally “to tie”): Tiny circles are made by tying the cloth with thread in a detailed design; the cloth is often sold with the thread still tied on (to be removed before first use) and is traditionally worn unironed, showing off the crinkly circles.
Bapu Bazaar
(around the corner from Johari Bazaar; closed Sun) is where you can bargain for a wide range of textiles and ready-made garments, as well as traditional camel-leather shoes
(jootis)
and bangles of glass and lacquer; it’s also by far the most pleasant shopping street because it’s pedestrianized. If you’re looking for great inexpensive gifts, take a look at the tiny workshops producing beautiful bangles in
Maniharon Ka Rasta,
an alley off Tripolia Bazaar (closed Sun).

For block-print fabrics, a trip to Sanganer, a village 16km (10 miles) south of Jaipur, is a must—here printing takes place in the courtyard of almost every house. Famous as the birthplace of block-work (and home to the largest handmade-paper industry in India), this is where you’ll find the most refined block-print work in the world. Visit
Shilpi Handicrafts
(
0141/273-1106
) or
Sakshi
(
0141/273-1862
) for fabrics, and
Salim Paper
(
0141/273-0222
) for a range of handmade paper you’ll be loathe to write on! If you are really serious about picking up block-printed fabrics, make an appointment to visit the colorful workshop of
Surabhi Exports
(
0141/237-2202
), where creative powerhouse, Gitto, works with renowned interior designers to come up with looks that are unique and totally fabulous. Also visit
Anokhi
(reviewed below) for lovely block-print garments.

One of the most reliable shops for knickknacks is
Neelam Handicrafts
at the Arya Niwas (
0141/237-2456
or 0141/510-6010). This little shop stocks maps, postcards, and books on India as well as some music CDs. It also has a small collection of silver jewelry, Indian teas, handmade paper, and souvenirs—all good quality and sold at a fixed marked price (a rarity in Jaipur); incidentally, they are half the price quoted at most other city shops.

Finally, if you’d like to find all the finest jewelry, designer wear, Pashminas, books, and selected homewares under one roof and aren’t against traveling some distance out of town, consider undertaking the 90-minute drive to
Amanbagh,
in the Ajabgarh valley. This remote, beautifully situated resort has one of the finest boutiques we’ve encountered. Christina Patnaik (a Mexican who married locally) sources exceptional items from all over India, and some of the clothing and jewelry displayed here costs marginally less than what you’d find in Jaipur (only here you won’t have to contend with heavy traffic, the commission system, or trying to figure out high quality from average items; everything at Amangagh is top-notch). There’s some extraordinary jewelry (including chunky tribal ankle bracelets), and funky Indian twists on Western garments by sought-after Delhi-based designer Malini Ramani; check out her colorful miniskirts with mirror-work and detailed
sitara
(sequin) designs—gorgeous, if pricey, at around Rs 9,000. Pashmina shawls of the highest quality start at Rs 1,500.

Blue Pottery

Kripal Kumbh Singh Shekhawat
If you want to make sure you’re purchasing top-quality blue glazed pottery, make an appointment to view the work of Jaipur’s most famous ceramist, Kripal Singh, often credited with reviving this dying art. Made from ground blue quartz stone, glass, borax, and clay, and utilizing traditional designs, his work is nothing short of exquisite. Open 10am to 7pm. Closed Sundays. B-18A Shiv Marg, Bani Park.
0141/220-1127.

Books

Books Corner
You could easily miss this corner shop, but even though it’s tiny, it’s chockablock with magazines and books. If you’re looking for more information on India, coffee-table books on Rajasthan, or just a good paperback read, this has the best selection around, at the fairest prices. M.I. Rd.
0141/236-6323.