India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (373 page)

GETTING THERE & AWAY
By Air
Kolkata is served by domestic flights from most major destinations in India. The websites
www.yatra.com
(
98-7180-0800
) and
www.ezeego1.co.in
(
1800-22-0177
) are reliable airline reservation sites with both online and phone facility. Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport,
formerly Dum Dum Airport (
033/2511-6026
or -8299;
www.calcuttaairport.com
) is 15km (9 1⁄3 miles) northeast. You can exchange currency and get tourist information from two separate booths here. Use the prepaid taxi stand; the 40-minute trip into town should cost Rs 500.

By Train
Kolkata’s
Howrah Junction
(
033/2660-2518
), just south of Howrah Bridge,
connects the city with most other parts of the country. It’s made up of the adjoining Old and New Howrah stations. You should purchase tickets through your hotel or a travel agent, but there is a section specifically for foreigners in the main
reservations office
(daily 10am–5pm). For general inquiries, call
1310;
for prerecorded information, call
1331.
Trains to destinations farther east and to the northern areas of West Bengal often depart from
Sealdah
Station
(Bepin Behari Ganguly St.;
033/2350-3535
or -3537); check your ticket to confirm which station you need to be at. Also arrive with time to spare so that you can navigate through the crowds and find out about any changes to the schedule. You can also log on to
www.indianrail.gov.in
for information (see chapter 3).

By Road
Don’t consider getting to or from Kolkata by motor vehicle (either driving yourself or by bus); otherwise you’ll waste a great deal of your vacation time.

GETTING AROUND
By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw
The full-to-capacity streets of Kolkata can be the very devil to get around, but a jaunt in a hired Ambassador is a good way to experience the city. Taxi drivers here are notoriously keen on ripping you off, even after you’ve negotiated a fare. Ask your hotel concierge for an approximate idea of the fare for your route, check that the meter is reset, and make sure that the driver knows where you’re going (use a street map to ensure you aren’t taken on a detour). You can hire a good car and driver through
Avis
(The Oberoi Grand;
033/2217-0147
) or through
Orix
(6, Royd St.;
033/2227 -5531
). See “Car Rentals” under “Fast Facts: Kolkata,” below. Note that rickshaws are outlawed from entering many of the city’s major streets.

The Metro
India’s first underground railway was started in Calcutta in 1984; it currently connects Tollygunge in the south with Dum Dum Station in the north. It’s a reliable, clean, and surprisingly uncrowded transport option (except for peak office hours), and tickets are cheap (Rs 4–Rs 8). The Metro operates Monday through Saturday from 7am to 9:45pm, and on Sunday from 3 to 9:45pm. For information, contact the
Metro Rail Bhavan
(33/1 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd.;
033/2226-7280
or -1054).

By Bus or Tram
To experience India at its most confusing, claustrophobic, and unpredictable, by all means hop aboard one of Kolkata’s battered buses or road-clogging trams. If you’re looking for a joyride, take a tram around Victoria Memorial.

On Foot
If you don’t mind breaking a sweat and rubbing shoulders with the
aam janta
(common man), Kolkata is quite a walkable city, at least in parts, with its pavements lined end to end with makeshift shacks selling practically anything that is sellable! Early morning is the best time to get out and stroll through the streets; it’s still relatively quiet, and the air is cooler and less choked by pollution. Pick up a cup of tea from the
chai-wallas
who serve their sweet brew in tiny unfired clay cups—India’s answer to the polystyrene cup, these are simply discarded after use. A great way to get acquainted with Kolkata is to pick up a copy of
Ten Walks in Calcutta
by Prosenjit Das Gupta (Hermes Inc.) from a bookstore (see “Shopping,” later).