James Beard's New Fish Cookery (3 page)

Where French wines are available, fish lovers have this advantage: Generally speaking, the finest of France’s dry white wines and rosés are less costly than the very great reds. Superb white wines, the greatest in the world, may be had for less than $15–$18, and many excellent white wines of less distinction may be obtained for around $4–$6.

Champagne.
Complementary to all fish, but never cheap. Among the famous names are Pommery and Greno, Dom Perignon, Louis Roederer, Bollinger, Veuve Clicquot, Pol Roger, Taittinger. The dryest champagne is labeled
brut
and
English Market.
Despite the implication,
extra dry
is not the dryest.

White Bordeaux.
The white wines of Graves, once popular in England and the United States, are no longer so eagerly sought by wine lovers. A notable exception, almost a curiosity, is the very dry Château Haut-Brion Blanc, regrettably scarce and expensive. A good dryish Graves is Château Olivier. In general, sauternes and Barsac are too sweet for fish dishes.

White Burgundy.
Perfect with fish. The communes that are world-famous for dry whites include Vougeot, Aloxe-Corton, Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligay-Montrachet. In a special class of its own is Chablis, greenish golden and dry as flint. It is superb with oysters. Not sufficiently appreciated by Americans is Pouilly-Fuissé, excellent with all fish and quite reasonable.

Rhone.
The Hermitage white wines are excellent with fish. One of the most charming white wines in the world is Clos de Chante-Alouette. Try it with a delicate sole dish.

Loire.
For a pleasant experience with fish, try Pouilly-Fumé, which is fresh and fruity, with a taste of the soil. Also pleasant, and very reasonable, is Muscadet.

Alsace.
For wonderful summer drinking, especially with cold fish try Gewurztraminer, Traminer, Riesling.

Rosé wines.
The Travel rosé wines are delicious when chilled. To a somewhat lesser extent than champagne, they are congenial with nearly all fish dishes.

GERMAN WINES

The Rhine and Moselle districts of Germany produce some of the world’s most famous white wines. Rhine wines tend to be full-bodied and long-lived, while the Moselles are lighter and often delightfully fragrant and delicate. Personally, I have never considered German wines to be the equal of the fine French white wines, yet I must acknowledge that they are highly prized and that the renowned bottlings, such as Schloss Johannisberg and Bernkasteler Doktor, command exceptional prices. Many of the dry German wines are excellent with fish, and the Moselles, especially, are delicious with cold fish dishes served on warm summer days.

Some of the most expensive Rhine wines are exceedingly rich and sweet, and these, of course, are not congenial with fish. German wines labeled
Auslese
(selected picking of the grapes) and
Spätlese
(late picked) tend to be dryish.

AMERICAN WINES

The white wines produced in the United States must be judged and enjoyed in proper perspective. In the last ten years they have increased in stature and in quality and are now equal to fine white wines in any country of the world. American wine is interesting, varied, and delicious and goes especially well with fish dishes. Their prices do not differ much from those of imported wines, but in many communities one finds inexpensive and good American wines that are perfectly reasonable table wines.

There are some interesting wines in New York State and there are great developments in Oregon and Washington and in many other states, but we find the greatest number of available wines from California. The best ones are named for their variety, such as Johannisburg Riesling, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sylvaner, Traminer, and Gewurztraminer. Most of these come from the counties around San Francisco Bay and the Livermore, Napa, Sonoma, and Santa Clara valleys. These geographic names are also generally clues to quality.

The native wines of New York are distinctly different from those of California. There has been a great deal of work done with hybrid grapes to banish the rather foxy, or grapy, flavor that was distinctive to the wines of New York State and one finds some excellent white wines coming along.

The same varietals that are used in California are used to great advantage in Oregon and Washington. If you find them, give them a sampling.

With American wines, it’s true that the label describes what you’re buying. Varietal wines are tops, although there are some bulk bottled wines called Chablis or Rhine wines that are not too bad and should be tasted. They can be considered as everyday table wines, to be enjoyed without spending a great deal of money. If in doubt, consult your wine merchant or the many books that have recently been published on American wines.

ITALIAN WINES

Italian wines have become more and more popular in this country within the last ten to twelve years. We have some deliciously simple, rather romantic wines such as Verdicchio. Also good are the white Chiantis, red and white Corvo, and red and white Orvieto. Italian wines are generally not as distinguished as French ones, nor are they always as good as fine American wines, but they’re gay, enjoyable wines to drink, especially in the summer and they lend themselves to fish beautifully. If you eat cold fish or take fish on a picnic, remember good Italian wines.

OTHER WINES

There are some very interesting wines from Hungary and Yugoslavia that use the same varietals as the Rieslings and Pinot Chardonnays of California, France, and Italy. Some of them are excellent buys and offer great drinking pleasure. Don’t be afraid to experiment.

Court Bouillons and Essences of Fish

Fish differs greatly in flavor, texture, gelatinous content, and delicacy of meat. Some fish and shellfish need strong bouillon to bring out and complement their flavors. Others have such distinctive flavors in themselves that they need practically nothing to enhance them.

SIMPLE COURT BOUILLON I

Sea bass, striped bass, red snapper, and other similar fish should be poached in a simple salt and water bouillon. They have distinction and flavor in themselves and should not be assaulted with artificial seasonings. Other flavors and seasonings will come directly from the sauces served with these fish.

SIMPLE COURT BOUILLON II

This bouillon can be used for whiting, halibut, cod, and many of the small white fish. Combine equal quantities of milk and water with just a little salt. Bring to a boil before adding the fish. Reduce the bouillon over a fairly brisk flame after the fish is cooked and you can use it for sauces.

COURT BOUILLON FOR COLD FISH DISHES

If you are doing a large piece of salmon, or a whole one, or a large piece of any fish to be served cold, you then want a bouillon that has a pleasant blending of flavors and is well punctuated with herbs and seasonings. Such a court bouillon may be used as the basis for a remarkably good aspic. Reduce the court bouillon after removing the fish. Clarify by adding white of egg and eggshell to the broth.
^*

For a large fish:

3 quarts water

1 quart white wine

1 cup wine vinegar

2 stalks celery

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon thyme

3 onions

9 cloves

4 carrots, finely cut

4 to 5 sprigs parsley

1 tablespoon salt

Put 3 cloves in each onion. Combine all ingredients and bring to a boil. Simmer for an hour before adding the fish.

RED WINE COURT BOUILLON

This is really an essence of fish, for it uses the bones and heads to make a richer bouillon. It is an excellent base for aspics or sauces, or it may be cooked down to about a third of its volume and used as a flavoring agent or glaze for fish dishes.

2 pounds fish bones and heads

3 quarts water

1 quart red wine

Bouquet garni (thyme, parsley, leck)

2 stalks celery

1 onion stuck with cloves

3 carrots cut in quarters

1 tablespoon salt

Cook the bones and heads of fish in 2 quarts of water for 30 minutes. Add the remaining water and all the other ingredients and continue cooking for 20 minutes. Add the fish and cook according to the recipe.

RICH WHITE WINE COURT BOUILLON FOR ASPICS

1 pound fish bones and heads

1 quart water

1 quart dry white wine

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 onions stuck with cloves

2 carrots, diced

2 cloves garlic

1 bay leaf

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Cook the fish bones and heads in the water for 30 minutes. Strain through fine cloth. You should have about a quart of bouillon. Add all the other ingredients, bring to a boil, and simmer for 20 minutes before adding the fish. For aspic, reduce the bouillon over high heat after the fish is removed. Clarify it with egg white and shells (page 18).

COURT BOUILLON FOR SHELLFISH

Use either the red or the white wine court bouillon for any of the shellfish. If, however, the shrimp, lobster, langouste, or crayfish are to be served with a highly flavored sauce, it is often more desirable to poach the fish in a plain salt and water bouillon — or in seawater, if available.

FISH ESSENCE

This can be used for flavorings, aspics, soups, and — if reduced to a heavy jelly — glazes.

2 cups mirepoix (carrots, onions, celery)

3 tablespoons butter

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 quarts white wine

2 pounds fish bones and heads

4 sprigs parsley

1 teaspoon thyme

Make the mirepoix by cutting the vegetables in very fine julienne and cooking them in the butter until they just begin to color. Salt and pepper to taste. Add the wine and the fish bones and heads. Bring to a boil, remove any surface scum, and add the parsley and thyme. Simmer for 2 hours.

Clarify and strain through a very fine sieve or linen napkin (page 18).

Sauces for Fish

SAUCE VELOUTé

2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons butter

1 cup fish stock

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Combine the flour and butter and cook together until they are slightly browned or yellowish in color. Gradually stir in the fish stock; continue stirring until it thickens. Simmer 10 minutes and season to taste. This makes 1 cup of velouté.

It is customary when you serve a plain velouté to add cream and egg yolks to the sauce. To 1 cup of velouté add 1 cup of cream and 3 egg yolks. Beat the cream and egg yolks together well and gradually stir into the basic sauce; continue stirring until the sauce is properly thickened and heated through. Be careful not to let the mixture boil after the egg yolks have been added. This will make 2 cups of sauce velouté.

VARIATIONS

Shrimp Sauce.
To 1 cup sauce velouté add 1/2 cup finely chopped cooked shrimp.

Lobster Sauce.
To 1 cup sauce velouté add 1/2 cup finely chopped cooked lobster meat.

Oyster Sauce.
Use 1/4 to 1/2 cup oyster liquor in making the basic sauce velouté and add 1/2 cup chopped oysters.

Clam Sauce.
Use 1/2 cup clam liquor in making the basic sauce velouté and add 1/2 cup minced clams.

Crabmeat Sauce.
To 1 cup sauce velouté add 1/2 cup flaked, cooked crabmeat.

SAUCE AURORE

1 cup sauce velouté

1/2 cup tomato paste

1/2 cup cream

2 egg yolks

Combine the sauce velouté with the tomato paste. Gradually add the cream and egg yolks, which have been well mixed. Stir until thickened and smooth, but take care the mixture does not boil. Taste for seasoning.

SAUCE MORNAY

11/2 cups sauce velouté

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup (more or less) cream

Few grains cayenne pepper

When the sauce velouté has thickened, stir in the grated cheese and continue stirring lightly until the cheese is melted. Dilute with cream, if needed. Season with cayenne and taste for salt.

FRENCH CURRY SAUCE

This is a good choice if you like a mild flavor of curry. It is also easier to make than the regular curry sauce.

2 cups sauce velouté

1/2 cup cream

Curry to taste

Combine the sauce velouté with the cream and as much curry as you like; heat well. Use on any type of fish.

SAUCE SOUBISE

1 large onion, finely chopped

Butter

1 cup sauce velouté

Steam onion in butter until soft and transparent. Add to sauce.

BASIC SAUCE BÉCHAMEL

4 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons flour

1/2 cup fish broth

1 cup milk

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Nutmeg

Melt the butter, add the flour, and cook until slightly colored. Add the fish broth and stir until smooth. Gradually add milk and continue stirring until nicely thickened. Cook 5 minutes and season to taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

VARIATIONS

Tomato Sauce.
Add 3 tablespoons tomato paste.

Tomato-Curry Sauce.
To the tomato sauce add 1 to 11/2 tablespoons curry powder.

Anchovy Sauce.
Add 2 or more tablespoons anchovy paste, 1 tablespoon butter, and the juice of half a lemon.

Cheese Sauce.
Add 1 cup grated Cheddar or Gruyère cheese, a few grains cayenne, and 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard.

Egg Sauce.
Add 3 hard-cooked eggs, thinly sliced.

Parsley Sauce.
Add 1/3 cup finely chopped parsley. Flavor, if you wish, with 1 tablespoon onion juice.

Piquant Sauce.
Add 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion, 1 finely chopped hard-cooked egg, 1 finely chopped dill pickle, and 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley.

Mustard Sauce.
Add 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard and 1 teaspoon or more dry mustard.

White Wine Sauce.
Stir in 1/2 cup white wine and 2 egg yolks. Heat through, stirring constantly, but do not let the sauce boil.