Mastering the Craft of Making Sausage (20 page)

cup (80 ml) celery, finely chopped

4 tsp. (20 ml) salt

1 tsp. (5 ml) minced garlic

1 tsp. (5 ml) red pepper flakes

1 tsp. (5 ml) black pepper

1 tsp. (5 ml) cayenne

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) sage—packed in the spoon ¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) bay leaf powder ¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) allspice ¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) thyme

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. Except for the meat, mix the seasonings and all other ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Next, add the ground meat and mix again. Before stuffing, chill the sausage mixture for at least 30 minutes—longer is better.

2. Stuff the sausage. Make 6-inch (15 cm) links. Wrap the sausage links in plastic food wrap and put them in plastic bags, expelling as much air as possible. Freeze or refrigerate immediately; this sausage is very perishable. If it is frozen, it will keep for 2 months, but refrigerated sausage should be eaten within two days.

3. To cook, steam the thawed sausage links at 180° F (82° C) until the internal temperature is 160° F (71° C). Continue steaming the links at the same temperature for an additional 30 minutes. This additional steaming will tenderize the vegetable ingredients.

Carl’s Italian Sausage

A friend of Italian ancestry helped me tailor this sausage so that it closely matches the flavor of the sausage that he ate so often as a child. Carl Preciso was raised on a farm near the Columbia River in Northern Oregon, and his grandfather, a farmer who was born in Northern Italy, raised hogs on this farm. Whenever a hog was butchered, Grandpa made sausage of the type presented below.

The following is the mild version that is popular in Northern Italy; it is also called sweet Italian sausage. To make the hot type, add more cayenne and, if you like, more paprika.

This sausage is traditionally stuffed into hog casings, but it can also be processed as bulk sausage, made into patties, or used as a pizza topping.

THE CASINGS

Prepare 7 feet (210 cm) of hog casings. Rinse the casings and soak them in water overnight. Before using, rinse the casings again, and soak in warm water for a few minutes.

THE MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare 2½ lbs. (1,150 g) of pork shoulder butt that contains about 20 percent fat, or use 2 lbs. (910 g) of lean pork and ½ lb. (225 g) of back fat; cut the meat into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Refrigerate the meat, and put the meat grinder and sausage stuffer in the refrigerator, too.

OTHER INGREDIENTS AND SEASONINGS

2¼ tsp. (11.25 ml) salt

2 tsp. (10 ml) black pepper, coarsely ground

2 tsp. (10 ml) ground coriander—packed in the spoon

2 tsp. (10 ml) anise seeds, cracked

2 tsp. (10 ml) fennel seeds, cracked or powdered 1 tsp. (5 ml) garlic powder

1½ tsp. (7.5 ml) paprika

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) cayenne

¾ tsp. (3.75 ml) thyme, powdered

⅛ tsp. (0.625 ml) bay leaf powder

¼ cup (60 ml) lemon juice

3 Tbsp. (45 ml) light corn syrup

½ cup (120 ml) powdered skim milk ¼ cup (60 ml) cold water

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. Grind the pork with a ¼-inch (6.4 mm) or smaller plate, and refrigerate it for 30 minutes.

2. Except for the ground pork, mix the seasoning and other ingredients in a 5-quart (5 liter) mixing bowl. Refrigerate this seasoning mixture for about 15 minutes.

3. Add the chilled ground meat to the seasoning mixture, and knead until it is thoroughly mixed and uniform. This will require about three minutes. Chill this meat and seasoning mixture again while the sausage stuffer and hog casings are being prepared.

4. Stuff the sausage into the hog casings, and twist into 5-inch (13 cm) links. Refrigerate the links overnight to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. Use a covered container.

5. Sausages that will not be eaten within two days should be wrapped in plastic food wrap individually, placed in a plastic bag, and frozen.

6. Please see Chapter 6 for cooking suggestions. (Sometimes Italian sausage is browned in a frying pan, and then a little red wine is added; the sausage is covered and steamed in the wine until fully cooked. This is one of Carl’s favorite methods of preparation.)

Chaurice (Creole)

This sausage probably came to Louisiana with the Spaniards. It is also believed that its name is related to
chorizo,
the well-known family of sausages popular in Spain and Mexico.

Chaurice has many variations and different levels of heat. The ingredient formula below is typical. The level of heat in this formula will be considered hot by most of us. However, a native of Louisiana would consider this sausage only moderately hot. If it needs to be hotter, increase the amount of cayenne and crushed red pepper flakes. This is an easy-to-make and flavorful sausage; the challenge is to get the heat adjusted to suit your taste.

Chaurice is good on a hoagie roll, and it works well for seasoning beans, potatoes, and sauerkraut. Louisiana natives say it goes well with eggs for breakfast.

CASINGS

This sausage is sometimes made into patties, but stuffing it into hog casings is more common. If small-diameter hog casing are used, prepare 7½ feet (225 cm) of casing. Rinse the casing, and refrigerate it in water overnight. Rinse again, and soak in warm water a few minutes before using.

THE MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare 2½ lbs. (1,150 g) of fatty pork shoulder. Cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Refrigerate. While this meat is being prepared, chill the grinder and sausage stuffer in the refrigerator.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2½ tsp. (12.5 ml) salt

½ cup (120 ml) onion, minced

¼ cup (60 ml) parsley, finely chopped

2 Tbsp. (30 ml) chili powder

2 tsp. (10 ml) garlic, minced

1 tsp. (5 ml) thyme

1 tsp. (5 ml) red pepper flakes

1 tsp. (5 ml) cayenne

1 tsp. (5 ml) sugar

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) black pepper

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) allspice

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) bay leaf powder

cold water to make a seasoning slurry

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. Grind the well-chilled pork with a coarse plate. A coarse grind will give the sausage an authentic bite texture. Refrigerate the ground meat for about 30 minutes.

2. Except for the ground pork, measure the seasoning and other ingredients into a large mixing bowl, and add enough cold water to make a slurry. Stir until it is uniformly mixed. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes.

3. Add the chilled ground meat to the seasoning mixture, and knead until it is thoroughly mixed and uniform. This will require about three minutes. Chill this sausage paste while the sausage stuffer and casings are being prepared.

4. Stuff the sausage paste into the casings, and twist into 5-inch (13 cm) links. Refrigerate the links overnight to permit the seasoning and flavors to be absorbed by the meat. Use a covered container.

5. Sausages that will not be eaten within two days should be wrapped in plastic food wrap individually, placed in a plastic bag, and frozen.

Sautéing or grilling the links is suggested. Please see Chapter 6 for cooking details.

Cheeseburger Sausage

This sausage is perfect for cheeseburger lovers. Grill, or cook in a covered frying pan. Serve on a hotdog bun with your favorite hamburger garnish.

CASINGS

Rinse 8 feet (240 cm) of small-diameter hog casing, and refrigerate it overnight in water. Rinse it again, and soak the casing in warm water a few minutes before using.

THE MEAT AND CHEESE FOR 2 LBS. 11 OZ. (1,200 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare the meat listed below; cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes and refrigerate. Cut the cheese into ¼-inch (6 mm) cubes. (Any kind of cheese is acceptable, but many people prefer American cheese for use in this sausage.) While this meat and cheese is being prepared, chill the grinder and sausage stuffer in the refrigerator.

2 lbs. (910 g) of lean beef and ½ lb. (225 g) of beef or pork fat— or
2
½ lbs. (1,150 g) of fatty beef. (Part of the beef may be replaced with wild game or pork.)

6 oz. (170 g) of cheese

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

1 tsp. (5 ml) salt

1 tsp. (5 ml) seasoned salt

¼ cup (60 ml) onion, minced

1 tsp. (5 ml) ground black pepper

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) ground mustard—packed in the spoon

2 tsp. (10 ml) dried parsley flakes

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) liquid smoke (optional)

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) garlic granules

½ cup (120 ml) finely powdered skim milk

¼ cup (60 ml) water

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. Grind the meat with a
-inch (4.8 mm) or smaller plate. Refrigerate the ground meat and cheese cubes for about 30 minutes.

2. Mix the seasoning, powdered skim milk, and water in a large mixing bowl. Refrigerate this seasoning mixture for about 15 minutes.

3. Add the chilled ground meat to the seasoning mixture, and knead until it is thoroughly mixed and uniform. This will require about three minutes. Fold in the cheese cubes. Chill this meat, cheese, and seasoning mixture again while the sausage stuffer and hog casings are being prepared.

4. Stuff the sausage into the hog casings, and twist into 6-inch (15 cm) links. Refrigerate the links overnight to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. Use a covered container.

5. Sausages that will not be eaten within two days should be wrapped in plastic food wrap individually, placed in a plastic bag, and frozen.

Please see Chapter 6 for cooking suggestions.

Chicken Breakfast Patties

Boned chicken thighs or turkey thighs will make the best sausage, but it will be good even if it is made with ground turkey sold at supermarkets.

THE CASING

This sausage is best made into patties, but if it will be stuffed into 24 to 26 mm (1 in. to 1
in.) sheep casing, prepare about 14 feet (420 cm) of casing. Rinse the casing, and refrigerate it overnight in water. Rinse again, and soak it in warm water a few minutes before using.

MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF SAUSAGE

Prepare 2½ lbs. (1,150 g) of boned chicken or turkey thighs; be sure to use the skin and the fat. (If commercially ground poultry is used, and it appears to be deficient in fat, be sure to use the optional vegetable oil listed below.) Cut the meat into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Refrigerate the poultry and put the meat grinder in the refrigerator. If the sausage stuffer will be used, refrigerate it as well.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2½ tsp. (12.5 ml) salt

¼ cup (60 ml) dry breadcrumbs

2 tsp. (10 ml) dried parsley

1 tsp. (5 ml) poultry seasoning—packed in the spoon

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) garlic granules

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) ground ginger

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) thyme