Mastering the Craft of Making Sausage (41 page)

1 tsp. (5 ml) brown sugar—packed in the spoon

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) onion granules

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) white pepper

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) garlic powder

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) allspice

4 tsp. (20 ml) cold water

MIXING AND STUFFING

Note: Half of the sausage filler is emulsified and half is not. Because of this, and in order to avoid confusion, instructions are given in more detail than are given for other emulsified sausages.

1. 
Grind the pork butt with a
-inch (4.8 mm) or smaller plate—the smaller the better. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes.
Important:
Do not grind the previously cured ham hunks.

2. 
Measure the seasoning into a large stainless steel mixing bowl. Add the cold water to make a thin paste. Stir until the mixture is uniform. Refrigerate for about 15 minutes.

3. 
Add the chilled ground meat to the chilled seasoning mixture, and knead until it is well mixed. This will require about three minutes. Place the sausage paste in the freezer, and stir the meat about every 10 minutes while the food processor is being set up and Step 4 is being accomplished. The goal is to chill this sausage paste in the freezer until most of it is crunchy, but not frozen hard.

4. 
Prepare at least ½ cup (120 ml) of crushed ice by processing about five large ice cubes in the food processor. It is better to have a little extra rather than not enough. Refrigerate.

5. 
When the sausage mixture has become crunchy, put it in the food processor with ½ cup (120 ml) of crushed ice. Process the sausage paste in the food processor for 30 seconds, and then measure the temperature with an instant-read thermometer. If the temperature is under 40° F (4.4° C), process it another 30 seconds. Continue to process 30 seconds at a time until 40° F (4.4° C) is reached.

6. 
When the temperature reaches 40° F (4.4° C), process it again for 15 seconds, if necessary. Continue to process 15 seconds (or less) at a time until 55° F (12.8° C) is reached or until the paste is emulsified. Do not exceed 60° F (15.6° C); if this temperature is exceeded, the emulsion will probably
break
—the fat will liquefy and separate from the emulsion. Refrigerate.
Note: Do not over-process the sausage. When it is obvious that emulsification has been accomplished, the processing should be stopped, even if the temperature of the paste is below 40° F (4.4° C).

7. 
Remove the previously prepared ham hunks from the refrigerator, and fold them into the emulsified sausage paste so that the cubes are coated with the paste and are uniformly distributed.

8. 
Stuff the emulsified sausage and ham cube mixture into the prepared fibrous casings. If an electronic thermometer will be used when the sausage is cooked, insert the cable probe into one of the chubs. Close the ends of the chubs with twine. Refrigerate overnight (or for at least a few hours) to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. Use an uncovered container with a paper towel placed over the chubs.

9. 
If the ham sausage will be smoked, please see Chapter 7. (Cold smoking followed by steaming is recommended.) If it will be cooked without smoking, please see Chapter 6.

Knockwurst

In German, the spelling is
knackwurst
, and
knacken
means “crackle.” Probably it was given that name because of the sound it makes when someone bites into it. It is usually stuffed in large size hog casings and twisted into short links. Knockwurst is often, but not always, emulsified. It is steamed, poached, or hot smoked—never fried. The German version of this sausage uses about 60 percent veal and 40 percent pork. This version uses 30 percent turkey, 30 percent beef, and 40 percent pork. Knockwurst (or
knackwurst
) is most often used as an ingredient when preparing other dishes; it goes very well with braised cabbage or sauerkraut.

CASINGS

Hog casing is recommended. If small-diameter hog casing will be used, prepare 8½ feet (255 cm). Rinse the casing, and refrigerate it overnight in water. Rinse again, and soak in warm water a few minutes before using.

THE MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF KNOCKWURST

Prepare ¾ lb. (340 g) of boned turkey thighs (the skin and fat may be included), 1 lb. (450 g) of pork shoulder butt, and ¾ lb. (340 g) of beef chuck. Cut the meat into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Refrigerate this meat until it is well chilled. While the meat is being prepared, chill the grinder and sausage stuffer in the refrigerator.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2 tsp. (10 ml) salt

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) Cure #1

1 Tbsp. (15 ml) white pepper, ground 1½ tsp. (7.5 ml) paprika

¾ tsp. (3.75) mace

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) coriander—packed in the spoon

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) garlic granules

⅛ tsp. (0.625 ml) allspice

2 Tbsp. (30 ml) light corn syrup ¼ cup (60 ml) cold tap water

½ cup (120 ml) finely powdered skim milk

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. 
Grind the three kinds of meat with a
-inch (4.8 mm) or smaller plate— the smaller the better. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes.

2. 
Measure the seasoning, water, and powdered milk into a large stainless steel mixing bowl. Stir until the mixture is uniform; it will be a thin paste. Refrigerate.

3. 
Follow the instructions in
HOW TO EMULSIFY SAUSAGE
near the beginning of this chapter.

4. 
Stuff the emulsified sausage into the prepared casings, and twist into short links. Refrigerate the links overnight (or for at least a few hours) to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. Use an uncovered container with a paper towel placed over the sausage.

If the knockwurst will be smoked, please see Chapter 7. (Cold smoking followed by steaming is recommended.) If it will be cooked without smoking, please see Chapter 6. It should be steamed or poached—it should not be sautéed.

Leberkäse

Leber
is German for
liver
, and
käse
means
cheese
; but true leberkäse contains neither. Leberkäse was first made in the 1700s and, undoubtedly, there was a

good reason for calling it “liver cheese” at that time. The American headcheese is made from the meat attached to the head of a pig, but it, too, contains no cheese. Nevertheless, this American sausage concoction somehow acquired the name “headcheese.” The etymology of sausage names is interesting, but this book is about sausage making, so we’ll get on with the job of explaining how to make this most unusual German sausage with the ill-fitting name:
leberkäse
.

Many people have facetiously described sausage making as the art of making many flavors of meat loaf. The making of leberkäse is not far from this description; leberkäse is, undeniably, a type of cured and emulsified sausage, but it is cooked as a meatloaf.

Leberkäse should be served as the main course for dinner, but leftovers make great snacks and sandwiches. If you have some leftover, try a German
strammer max
: Toast a slice of rye or whole wheat bread, place a thick slice of leberkäse (heated in the microwave) on it, and top it with a fried egg and a garnish of fried onions.

THE MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF LEBERKÄSE

Prepare 1¼ lbs. (570 g) of pork shoulder butt and 1¼ lbs. (570 g) of beef chuck. (Lean wild game and extra pork fat may be substituted for the beef.) Cut the pork butt and beef chuck into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. Refrigerate these two meats until they are well chilled. While this meat is being prepared, chill the grinder in the refrigerator.

SEASONINGS AND OTHER INGREDIENTS

2 tsp. (10 ml) salt

1 tsp. (5 ml) lemon juice

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) Cure #1

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) onion granules

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) white pepper, ground

½ tsp. (2.5 ml) sugar

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) garlic granules

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) ginger powder

¼ tsp. (1.25 ml) coriander—packed in the spoon

⅛ tsp. (0.625 ml) nutmeg

⅛ tsp. (0.625 ml) allspice

¼ cup (60 ml) cold tap water

½ cup (120 ml) finely powdered skim milk

MIXING AND STUFFING

1. 
Grind the pork butt and the beef chuck with a
-inch (4.8 mm) or smaller plate—the smaller the better. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes.

2. 
Measure the seasoning, water, and powdered milk into a large stainless steel mixing bowl. Stir until the mixture is uniform; it will be a thin paste. Refrigerate for about 15 minutes.

3. 
Follow the instructions in
HOW TO EMULSIFY SAUSAGE
near the beginning of this chapter.

4. 
Grease a bread loaf pan with margarine, butter, or shortening. Put the emulsified sausage paste in the loaf pan, and shape the mass into a loaf by using a rubber bowl scraper dipped in water. Cover the loaf with plastic food wrap, and refrigerate it overnight (or for at least a few hours) to permit the seasoning to be absorbed by the meat. (If necessary, this emulsified sausage paste may be frozen for up to two months either before or after it is put in the loaf pan.)

5. 
Preheat the oven to 300° F (150° C). Remove the plastic food wrap, and bake about 1½ to 2 hours until the internal temperature is a little below 160° F (71° C). (The cooking time will vary with the thickness of the loaf.) Remove the loaf from the oven, and let the loaf rest a few minutes (the internal temperature will continue to climb). Slice and serve.

Liverwurst

This is one of the most popular German sausages, but only liver lovers appreciate it. Next to Braunschweiger, it is my favorite liver sausage. A sandwich made with slices of either one of these liver sausages, together with a slice of sweet white onion, is a popular way to eat them.

This sausage is traditionally made with pork liver, but calf, beef, wild game, or poultry liver may be used. Pork liver has the strongest taste of any kind of liver and, because of that, it is not popular and is difficult to locate; try ethnic grocery stores if you want to buy pork liver. Beef liver is milder than pork, but stronger tasting than calf. Poultry liver is the mildest tasting liver. Usually, I use pork or beef liver.

CASINGS

If 2½-inch (6.4 cm) diameter fibrous casings are used, three 12-inch (30 cm) casings will be required. Fibrous casings must be soaked in water for 30 minutes before stuffing. Be sure to fill the casings with warm water.

Liverwurst is traditionally made with about 60 percent fatty pork and 40 percent liver. Some of this pork can be replaced with lean venison or venison heart, together with pork fat.

THE MEAT FOR 2½ LBS. (1,150 G) OF LIVERWURST

Prepare 1½ lbs. (680 g) of pork shoulder butt and 1 lb. (450 g) of liver. Cut the pork butt into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes. If large livers are being used, cut the liver into pieces that will fit into the hopper of the meat grinder. Refrigerate the liver in a separate dish from the pork. While this meat is being prepared, chill the grinder and sausage stuffer in the refrigerator.