My Journey to Freedom and Ultralight Backpacking (15 page)

   Mainframe is heading up, we shake hands, and he tells me he is tired of this shit. I laugh. A true purist, we have followed the rules. We are ready to go home.

   The peak bagger catches up to me again, and I follow him down. It’s not nearly as hard following someone, letting them help find a sensible path down insensible rocks. We reach the campground at 2:30. I still have water. Shaking hands, and best of luck, we part. That is the way of the trail. You meet great people, enjoy their company, and never see them again. Rainmaker, freshly shaven, looking young and handsome, is waiting at a picnic shelter; enjoying a new CD he bought. Life is so good. “Congratulations! Let’s go home,” he smiles.
   August 15
th
and 16
th
were spent driving back to Georgia. I recognized on the road signs the names of the places I had resupplied: Cheshire, Mass. Pine Grove Furnace State Park, Pennsylvania, Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia, Perrisburg, Virginia. Last time I headed south on I-81, there was unfinished business. Now, there is no unfinished business. I am done. I am a thru-hiker. I started to cry as that fact finally sank in. My emotions could no longer be contained. David understood. He, too, is a thru-hiker, and knows what it took, what it cost in soul and spirit.

Reflections

The things we believed would never fade have already been abandoned by your memory
--
found in a magazine on top of Sugarloaf Mountain.

The only lasting memories will be of the humor, stubbornness,
strength, and friendships. The pain, loneliness, fear, and worry, at one time so overwhelming, have already been abandoned. Did those bad things ever really happen? There will never be a doubt about the wonder, amazement, resolve and growth.

Thoreau said,
“A man generally attains what he aims for, therefore, though at first he fail, he ought to aim high.”
I accepted nothing less than a pure thru-hike for myself.

And finally the quote I found in a rare PCT water cache register
“In the end you find that no one wins, and that the race was only with yourself”.
It matters not who finished before or after me, but that I finished at all.

My Resupply Points for the Appalachian Trail

I don't like to hitch hike, and town stops take extra time and money. For these reasons, I chose to hike more miles between resupply points. Because of the season, and time of day, sometimes I was able to buy food at concession stands, which supplemented my food supplies. Those places are noted in this list. Whenever possible, I obtained information from southbounders and section hikers of upcoming trail resources.

Neel’s Gap, GA-
Trail goes right past the store. They hold drop boxes for hikers and charge $2 for this service. Some food is sold at the store, but it's expensive. There was a hostel right next door in 2002, where many hikers stayed overnight.  A coin operated washer and dryer were also available.

Dick’s Creek Gap, GA-
I went home for a day, but it is an easy hitch into Hiawassee, a town with lots of motels, and fast food restaurants.

Nantahala River, Wesser, NC-
Trail goes right through this complex. I bought some supplies, and used the hiker box. The restaurant has great food.

Fontana Dam, NC
- I went home for two days; most hitch into the resort area.

Newfound Gap, TN
-Rainmaker brought me home for a day, but one may hitch into Gatlinburg, TN or Cherokee, NC.

Hot Springs, NC –
Last time home, so I stayed two days. Trail goes right through town with full supplies, including an outfitter and hostel.

Erwin, TN-
Trail goes within sight of resort (hiker hostel, with supplies). I caught a ride into town with many amenities, good resupply. Town with a hiker-turf war, be prepared to hear negative comments about the competition. There are motels in town, if you would wish to stay out of the fray.

Dennis Cove, TN-
A reasonably priced resort half mile east, decent supplies, hot food, and bunks, showers and laundry facilities. Very friendly management, who gave free popcorn with the free videos for the evening entertainment. They also make a great breakfast, but they do want hikers to register for supper, due to limited space in the restaurant.

Damascus, VA –
The trail goes right through town, has full supplies including outfitters. One outfitter has Internet access available. The Place, a hostel run by the Methodist Church, has many rooms full of wooden bunks. Donations recommended.

Atkins, VA-
Trail goes right past inexpensive motel, convenience store with adequate resupply, and restaurant. It’s not really in town, but had all the facilities that I needed.

Pearisburg, VA-
Trail goes within one-tenth mile of an inexpensive motel, called the Rendezvous. Very good resupply one mile into town, with a library, Internet access, Pizza Hut and more.

US 220, near Troutville, VA, -
Trail goes within sight of shopping center, supermarket, motels, and restaurants.

Jennings Creek, VA-
Weekenders took me to a convenience store to resupply; most hikers went into Glasgow, which is 30 trail miles north.

Waynesboro, VA
-Easy hitch into town from Rockfish Gap, and there are plenty of stores of all kinds. Free camping at YMCA.

Big Meadows, VA
- Had lunch, and bought some supplies, a decent camp store and grill. There is a pay phone outside, and they do accept credit cards. Watch for the one-tenth mile turnoff by the cemetery, this is easy to miss. If you get near the lodge, you have gone too far, and it will be a mile down the nature trail to the grill.

Elkwallow Gap, VA-
Great grill and scanty, but sufficient, resupply one-tenth east of trail, last of the Shenandoahs. This one can be seen from the trail.

Ashby Gap, VA, U.S. 50
-We walked one-tenth mile east to a taxidermist shop and bought candy bars, raisins, chips and soda. There also were dehydrated suppers for sale, if you need them.

Harpers Ferry, WV –
Trail winds right along edge of town. There is a hiker box at ATC headquarters where they take your photo and tell you what number you are southbounding, northbounding, or section hiking. The 7-11 has adequate resupply. This is a good place to send a drop box with data sheets, fuel tablets, etc. This is considered the half way point, emotionally. The post office is about 3 blocks from the ATC. There is a library with Internet access, too.

Pine Grove Furnace State Park, PA-
A small camp store with groceries, and hot food, not well marked, just past the huge white house (hostel). There was a concession stand in the park further up as well that the trail went right past.

Boiling Springs, PA-
The trails goes right through, takes a right turn, and starts through a farmer's field. There's a hiker box at ATC Mid Atlantic Regional Office, restaurants within a few blocks (turn left off trail) with great Italian food. You don't need much, it's only 26 miles to Duncannon.

Duncannon, PA-
Trail passes through town where hikers can stay at the sleazy, 4-storied Doyle. A free shuttle to a fantastic grocery store, convenience stores, restaurants, and bars help this town to be a favorite among hikers.

Port Clinton, PA-
Just bought a candy bar, but the outfitter there has sufficient food for a resupply. Bring cash. Not a good town to do anything else in, no phones, no ATM. The motel does not take credit cards, and the rooms don’t have air conditioning, private bathrooms, or phones.

Delaware Water Gap, PA –
Motels with hiker rates, all the amenities, and a convenience store with adequate resupply, and great restaurants. This is the place to spend money on a motel, if you are so minded, because it has the luxuries you have been waiting for.

Mohican Outdoor Center, NJ-
Only 10.5 miles from Delaware Water Gap, it’s a great stop. Fresh sandwiches made to order, and some snacks, are found a quarter mile left from the trail.  There’s also a phone and a bunkhouse.

Unionville, NY-
The town is just four-tenth west of the trail, has a small but very adequate grocery store.

NJ Hwy. 94-
I could see the store from the road crossing. This place is only 12 miles north of Unionville, and one tenth left of the trail. They sell pastries, ice cream, fruit, and much more. Great place to snack and get some additional treats. No phone available, in 2002.

Bear Mountain, NY-
Trail goes right behind this fancy motel, great place to eat lunch. Let the waitress know if you drink a lot of coffee. They don't open until 11:30, though.

Kent, CN-
A walk of eight-tenths mile into town. Great resupply at the IGA, by the post office. Little shops are quite expensive, so is the lodging. Not easy to hitch, the locals seem wary.

Dalton, MA-
Walk through town, with convenience stores, but with Cheshire only 9 miles away a person doesn't need to carry much food.

Cheshire, MA-
Hike along edge of town on the AT. There’s great pizza, sub sandwiches, and convenience stores five-tenths west of trail. Pay phone at the gas station.

Mt. Greylock, Bascom Lodge, MA
-I went in to use the phone. A friend bought a pack cover, and there was candy, hot food and snacks available. Hikers could rent a bunk if they wanted to. Just 6 miles to Mass. 2 where you decide between North Adams to the east, and Williamstown to the left.
North Adams-
It’s expensive, but had all one could want in food, restaurants, and amenities. Great interconnecting bus system to nearby Pittsfield.

Manchester, VT-
An easy hitch 5.5 miles west, with a fabulously large supermarket, lots of restaurants, and a Laundromat. The whole town was quite crowded with tourists, even on a Monday
.

Killington, VT-
Stayed at the Long Trail Inn, adequate supplies and post office (shuttle bus available) 2.2 miles east.

West Hartford, VT-
Walk right past great restaurant/deli with adequate food supplies. Hanover is just 10 miles away.

Hanover, NH-
Trail goes right through this fancy college town. There is a fraternity house, which allows 6 thru-hikers to spend the night free. Town has good resupply, and there’s a hiker box at the frat house.
Glencliff, NH
-Sent a drop box with food for the White Mountains, extra layer of clothing, data sheets, fuel tablets, hygiene, vitamins.

White Mountains, NH-
If you hit it right, like we did, plenty of food at the huts. We left Glencliff with four days of food
.

Pinkham Notch, NH-
I rented a bunk with complete bedding, and had the room to myself, got two fantastic All You Can Eat (AYCE) meals, showers and phone access for $50. It didn't seem expensive after a long hard day.

Gorham, NH-
An easy hitch 3.6 miles west, adequate resupply at drug store next to post office and Laundromat. Great restaurants.

Rangley, ME-
An easy hitch 9 miles west. Has a good but very busy grocery store, pay phone outside the store, several grills, and a Laundromat, with no change or soap machines
.

Caratunk, ME-
Spent the night, day hiked to Monson. Great store to resupply at the ferryman’s cabins.

Monson, ME -
Stayed at Pie Lady’s, adequate resupply at small store. Another town with a turf-war. She rents rooms, and makes breakfasts, for a reasonable fee.  There’s also a mini-mart with great deli sandwiches (made to order) on the edge of town. Internet access at the small public library near the mini-mart.
Abol Bridge, ME-
Small store just past the bridge, which the trail goes right past. I went with Rainmaker to Millinocket for the night, and then carried snacks for the day-hike up and down Mt. Katahdin .

My Ultralight Tips and Techniques

   Backpacking veterans have seen vast changes in gear,
especially over the last five years. I have been backpacking only since 1999, so the wave of new ultralight gear does not amaze me as much as others. What amazes me is the weight hikers carried previously when they went into the backcountry.

   I had my first real taste of pack weight variations while hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. The first year I went with Rainmaker, there were times we hauled 5 quarts of water (each) and 7 days of food. As the water was used, the two pounds per liter could definitely be felt. When we neared town, and our next resupply, the food weight was down to a pound or two. It felt like I could really cruise. Then a thought struck me. What if my pack was always this light?  

   Ultralight backpacking doesn’t have to be expensive. Using alternative gear can result in substantial savings for both weight and money. Suggestions for inexpensive, recycled, or free gear are given in the appropriate categories that follow. Of course, all of it is light, and weights in grams or ounces listed when possible.

  Most of the time, a change in personal habits can save weight. For instance, if you are willing to eat out of your pot, and drink from a plastic home made cup, forego the extra eating utensils, repackage your food, and cook on an ultralight soda can stove, several pounds can be shaved on the cooking system alone. Part of ultralighting is about self-restriction, self-reliance, and self-discovery, but never self-denial. After all, backpacking is about enjoyment. I find the whole subject totally fascinating, and love to experiment.

   There are many brands and types of commercial gear. Also, there are the emerging cottage industries offering homemade gear. What you chose to buy, or make, depends on your own preferences and needs. This chapter is devoted to helping individuals lighten their packs to suit themselves. What works for me may not work for you. My hope is that you can achieve the lightest possible pack weight, and still have everything that you need for a safe and enjoyable trip. Some of the information presented here is just my own opinion, and based on personal experience, observations and research. Please share your ideas with me by e-mail. I look forward to hearing from you, and learning additional ultralight techniques.

Base Pack Weight
is defined as all your gear without food and water. The systems for carrying food (stuff sacks) and water (water bottles or bags) are included. Some people differentiate with
Skin Out
base weight, which is another way of emphasizing that the stated weight includes clothing worn as well.

Gram Weenie
is a term coined to identify people so focused on pack weight that even a few grams (28.5 grams per ounce) would be pared from the lightest of gear. Some gram weenie techniques include cutting down the handle on a Lexan spoon, removing name tags and icons from gear, making sandals from shoe inserts and replacing a cooking pot lid with aluminum foil.

The
Volume
or
Bulk
of an item is very important for an ultralighter, as well as weight. If you only have 2,500 cubic inches of pack space available, the amount of space that the various items occupy is going to be crucial. The final choice between a synthetic or down sleeping bag might be made for this reason alone.

Silnylon
is a 1.1-ounce, siliconized, rip-stop fabric. Once treated with silicone to make it water repellent, it weighs approximately 1.3 ounces per square yard. Sometimes called parachute cloth, it is difficult to find in fabric stores, and often it is necessary to order it from companies offering specialized materials. Ultralight gear made from this fabric is very light and amazingly strong. However, it is not flame retardant.

Vapor Barrier
is an item designed to trap body heat and hold in body moisture as well. Vapor barrier bags can be used in emergency and survival situations. Vapor barrier clothing can be worn in or out of a sleeping bag, lowering the bag’s rating by as much as 10 degrees. Clothing and fabric is said to
Breathe
if body moisture can escape through the fibers. A waterproof fabric will not allow such transfer, while some fabrics (like silk and cotton) will. By their very nature, vapor barrier bags and clothing do not breathe. In high humidity situations, and pouring rain, anything breathable becomes a study in semantics at best.

Wicking
refers to the transfer of body moisture to the clothing, thereby allowing evaporation into the atmosphere. A thin wicking layer, sometimes called a base layer, is usually made of polyester. It is recommended for use under rain clothing in cold weather, or when perspiration is considerable. The clothing itself will not hold much moisture, but dries quickly. Hiking shorts and tops that wick will allow the perspiration to evaporate quickly, unlike cotton.

A
System
is a set of components that work together to achieve one goal. These components may change with climate or personal needs. Several systems needed for backpacking include a cooking system, a sleeping system, shelter, and pack system.

Footprint
refers to the exact shape a tent floor makes. When cutting a custom ground cloth, set up the tent on plastic sheeting and mark its base. Remove the tent, and cut the sheeting one-inch smaller (on all sides) than the outline you just traced.

Pitching
a tarp or tent refers to setting it up
. Striking or dropping
tarp or tent means taking it down.  

Tarp
-
A water resistant shelter without a floor. It may have an overhanging panel, sometimes called a beak, or no-see-um netting attached. Variable pitch and floor area result from different configurations. Partially because of recent concerns over West Nile Virus (transmitted by mosquitoes) and Lyme Disease (transmitted by ticks) a new breed of
Tarp-Tents
has been developed. These tarps have sewn in floors, some still maintaining the variable pitch option. The floors can be of no-see-um netting, or waterproof fabric such as silnylon.

The word
Shelter
is now used in place of tarp or tent because of the various designs now overlapping in those structures. Different definitions of tent-tarps cause confusion, so the word
Shelter
may be used frequently instead.

Variable Pitch
is a major reason people choose tarps over tents. Nearly every tarp can be configured in a triangular pattern. Height will vary with length. This is geometry simplified. If a storm threatens, the tarp is spread, keeping the windward side low. This gives the shelter a low center height, but provides the occupant a longer area of coverage. In good weather, the tarp is pitched higher, and the area covered will be less. One exception would be a canopy, or nearly horizontal configuration. This style could be used for protection against desert sun, or windless, drizzling rain.

Single wall/double wall tent
-
A single wall tent is constructed with one layer of water resistant or water proof fabric. It may have screen doors and vents, with storm doors, beaks or windows. A double walled tent has much of the top sewn-in mesh (no-see-um netting), with a door opening, stitched to a waterproof or water resistant floor. A fly or tarp is then fitted over the top to protect against wind and rain. A double walled tent is heavier, but will have less condensation problems.

Seam sealing
is recommended for all shelters, tents and tarps. Even factory-taped seams have been known to leak on new shelters. Seams sewed into shelters with needles form tiny holes every time a stitch is taken. If a sealant is smeared along (and into) the seam over the holes, leaking will stop. The best seam sealant we have found, which even sticks to 1.3-ounce silicone treated, rip stop nylon, is 100% silicone, manufactured for exterior use. Apply according to directions, and allow it to dry for at least 24 hours.

Condensation
occurs in fabric shelters because the shelter usually is warmer than the outside air. As we exhale, moisture from our breath rises to condense on the inner walls. In single wall tents, this moisture can be wiped away with a bandana or pack towel. With double wall tents, the moisture passes through the top mesh, collects on the underside of the fly, and then drains downward. Generally speaking, the moisture will not fall back through the mesh. Exceptions occur when rain hits the canopy. Condensation is directly related to airflow. The more closed and waterproof a shelter is, the greater the moisture buildup will be.

Zero Day
in the truest sense of the word means a day when no time is spent hiking trail miles. Having a low pack weight, and a complete system that works can substantially reduce the need for zero days.

A
Resupply
is when a hiker replenishes food, medical and hygiene items, and then resumes the hike. A resupply can be done by buying directly from local stores, using a bounce box, or drop box. A
bounce
box is a box with supplies intended to be mailed ahead after needed items are chosen from it. It is “bounced” ahead to the next post office and the container is generally of a much studier construction. A
drop box
is intended to be a one-time shipment, and ideally should only include the items needed for that next section of trail.

   There are many reasons for backpacking. When assembling gear, those reasons need to be addressed. Perhaps the excursion into the backcountry is to take fantastic photos. One good friend took a 4-pound camera on his Pacific Crest Trail thru-hike. When teased about its weight, he simply stated, “I am taking photos that will last a lifetime.” Photography was his passion, and he won awards with some of those photos he took in 2001. I have brought disposable cameras, weighing 4 ounces. At times, I carry a 6-ounce digital camera. Ultralight backpacking is not about deprivation, but about choosing the lightest weight gear for your own needs.

  The trip’s purpose may be fishing, or perhaps it includes fishing, at a remote spot along the way or at the destination. Some long distance hikers bring just a line, hook and sinker. Others include a light reel as well. They find poles in the vicinity. However, it is not appropriate to cut live vegetation for your fishing rod. Then, there are those who bring their entire rod and reel, along with a tackle box. I have seen these left in hiker boxes, when the hiker tired of fishing. Do not forget to check about the permits necessary for the areas you are traveling to and through. 

  If the reason for backpacking is just about hiking, and enjoying the trail, then a light pack will enhance the journey. With every mile, and every foot of elevation gain or loss, the work involved in backpacking is increased proportionately to the weight carried.

  Perhaps time is limited and long high mileage days are crucial. Paring down every last gram is important. This actually can be quite fun, and looked upon as a personal challenge. I would never criticize anyone who does not want to go this far, but it is an extremism that I enjoy.

   The formula that one should not carry more than 25% of their body weight is a good starting point. This figure is used with one’s ideal body weight, and includes food and water. That 25 % should be considered maximum weight, including food and water. If one were hiking the desert, where water is an issue, temporarily exceeding that maximum may be unavoidable. Each liter of water weighs two pounds. At times, 6 liters are carried, for a total of 12 pounds.

   But generally speaking, the 25% is applicable in most backpacking situations. As a 120-pound woman, that translates into 30 pounds for me. If I have to carry two liters of water (4 pounds) and four days of food (about 6 pounds) that gives me 20 pounds of base weight to work with. As an ultralighter, I would look at getting to a 15% maximum weight, or below. That translates into 18 pounds, maximum. I was able to do this on my AT thru-hike in 2002. In Port Clinton, PA, the outfitter weighed my pack at fourteen pounds, which is 11.6% of my body weight. That included food for four days, and 12 ounces of water. My gear list for this hike, complete with adjustments, can be read in Chapter 5 of this book.

   The philosophy of ultralight backpacking is to bring innovation and problem solving strategies into the backcountry with us. One way to really lower pack weight is to have carefully planned strategies concerning water.

   Some strategies concerning water in well-watered areas include carrying two water bottles, one that is drunk as soon as purification is complete. The other one is kept full until another water source is located. At the water source, the other one is drunk, and both bottles refilled and treated. As you continue hiking, this cycle is repeated, drinking one bottle of water as soon as purification is complete, and reserving the other one until a water source is located.  This way a person stays well hydrated, without running out of water.

   In the desert, this strategy changes. Compute the miles to the next sure water source, and divide the amount of water carried among the hours necessary to reach that source. The most I carried was 5 liters of water. Try to get started at daybreak, while it is still cool. Then, during the heat of the day, it is a good idea to rest in the shade, preferably at a water source. You may have to create your own shade but hopefully there will be a rock overhang or Joshua tree. Cook and wash the dishes, brush your teeth, and wash your body at a water source if possible. If there is still a lot of daylight when that source is reached, you can hike until dark. Whenever you reach water, tank up, that is, drink as much as you can hold, resting and waiting, then drinking more. This method will get you through a lot of desert miles on a daily basis.