My Journey to Freedom and Ultralight Backpacking (23 page)

  This is what I bring on long hikes:

  Super-Glue
, the kind that is free flowing, and can be reclosed. Although I wouldn't recommend it to others, Super Glue has been used instead of stitches to close wounds on animals and humans. It also secures a piece of electrical tape to silnylon packs and shelters, for emergency repairs.

  Cotton balls and Isopropyl alcohol
. The 100% cotton is preferable to any synthetic blend because it will burn, and can be used as fuel. The alcohol is for cleaning and sterilizing hands and wounds. I usually list this in my hygiene category, and carry just one 6 or 8 ounce capacity bottle, which is sufficient for these purposes. Some well-respected hikers bring hydrogen peroxide for this instead, because it is not damaging to tissue.

  Tweezers,
the standard kind with the angled edge weighs 6 grams. I found one in a Red Cross toothache medication kit that did not even register on the electronic gram scale. Tweezers are useful for removing ticks, splinters, and small tablets from vials (if you use Iodine tablets, for instance).

  Sewing Needle
with a medium size eye, to use with the dental floss for sewing gear, removing splinters, and popping blisters if you do that. There are other applications for advanced emergencies.

  A
Nail Clipper
, weighing 16 grams, is much better than a knife for trimming nails that could become ingrown, have blackened and died, or become ragged and snagged. By maintaining short nails, you will cut down on dirt, possible infections, and pain associated with torn finger and toenails.

  An
ultralight mirror
, especially for a soloist, can be used for examining your body for ticks and removing things from the eye. It could also be a signal mirror, if necessary.

   Electrical tape
wound tightly around water bottles can be used for repairing gear, and taping cotton over wounds when necessary.
Some hikers use duct tape, but I find duct tape to be heavier, less dependable in wet or humid conditions, and leaves a sticky residue.
I use electrical tape with cotton for anything that would require a large band-aid. I don't bring band-aids.

  A
9-foot length of 1/8-inch diameter cordage
can be used in a multitude of ways. It doesn't take up much space in the pack, and weighs only 6 grams. A 9-foot length of 1/4-inch diameter cordage weighs 10 grams, and takes up twice the space. Use nylon or polyester, and heat seal the ends to keep it from unraveling. Do not bring a three-ply braid; it will fray when you need it most, fulfilling Murphy's Law of Backpacking.

  Ibuprofen
should not be underestimated. It relieves pain, reduces swelling, and can help you hike out should the need arise. Always take these with a few bites of food, to avoid stomach problems. Some hikers bring Aleve, because it is a more concentrated pain reliever. Sometimes I vary the dosage, using as little as 200 mg to a maximum of 800 mg at once. With tablets of 200 mg, I can self-medicate as needed.

  A
cutting implement
, such as a knife or scissors is important. A dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one. I use a tiny retractable razor, designed for cutting envelopes, and found at office supply stores. It weighs 5 grams, but is sharp enough to cut fabric, paper, and dental floss. I do not bring a pocketknife, for various reasons. Some say a knife is a defense weapon. I feel that it would probably be used against me if the attacker ever saw it. The razor knife is small enough to be hidden in one's hand, yet do some real damage should the need arise. Some use a knife to cut their bread and cheese. Food items taste just as good broken into pieces. Knives are definitely not needed for snakebites. Snakebite kits are not recommended, because studies show that most methods of self-treatment cause more harm than good, leaving a dangerous wound without solving anything.

  A bandana or synthetic camp towel
, measuring 12 x 8 inches is already listed in the hygiene category. I bring only one, and it has multi-purpose use. It can be used to stop bleeding, clean larger areas, and provide a compress when cold stream water is available. A bandana can also be used for straining water at murky sources. Rinse it well as often as possible, and subject it to bright sunlight whenever you can.

  Two photon lights
, one red, the other white, and each one weighs 6 grams. I use them sparingly and both have lasted for over 10 months of trails, the PCT and AT, besides numerous short trips. So far, I’ve not changed the battery on either one. The minimalist way of utilizing light is to rise with daylight, hike, write journal entries, read maps and books, set up the shelter, cook and wash before dark. When it gets dark, you talk, sleep, or otherwise entertain each other. When there is a full moon, one seldom needs additional lighting. Applying these methods will prolong the life of batteries and photon lights, saving money and weight. When there is a lot of darkness, one gets plenty of rest.

Luxury Items

 
Cell phones, radios, and Pocket Mails are becoming quite common on the trails now.  A case can be made for each one. Remember, they all take batteries, which can add up in weight and expense. When the batteries go dead, they are worthless weight.

  Cell phones have many calling plans. If yours is geared towards local use, you will probably use it only for emergencies when out of your calling range. I decided after a week that its 6 ounces of weight didn’t merit any perceived advantage. If you get the nationwide plan while hiking, you may find that the folks at home expect you stay in touch. That has its own set of obligations, which again may not merit the advantages.

  There are ultralight radios, weighing a few ounces, but reception and headphones aren’t always good. Some hikers use theirs only in camp for weather and news updates. I finally sent mine home after falling asleep with it on, battling commercials in the quest for music, and general disgust with reception. Remember, it is poor trail etiquette to play or use any electrical device that makes noise without checking with the other human inhabitants of your campsite.

  A Pocket Mail, an electronic e-mail and document-keeping device, is handy for those who keep online journals, have e-mail correspondents, or have bad penmanship. They are very useful when you are in areas with only satellite phone access. By writing e-mails, then downloading on the satellite phone for one minute, you can contact everyone with one call, saving vast amounts of money.

  Almost everyone brings a camera, though it is not strictly necessary, so I have placed it in this luxury category.  A 5-ounce digital camera has the advantage of instant confirmation that the photos taken are acceptable. These photos can be kept on memory cards, downloaded to your computer’s hard drive, and e-mailed later. These cameras will not work without batteries, however, and you will not have a hard copy unless you chose to print.

  A disposable camera is a neat item, weighing about 4 ounces, and is self-contained. They can be mailed home when finished, and if lost or destroyed it is only a matter of $5 and your lost photos. They are susceptible to light and heat, so do not set them in the sun, or leave them in a hot car for any length of time.

  Camera buffs will bring their own special model, regardless of weight. Of course, there is always the risk of losing it. Mark all your gear with real name, trail name, address and phone number. One thru- hiker I know left his $400 camera in a car when he hitched into town.

  The portable CD players, with various music disks and headphones, are carried by hikers who cannot or will not do without their music. Again, trail etiquette mandates that permission be requested and granted unless you are using headphones. Not everyone enjoys heavy metal or rhapsody in blue.

  Each electronic device can be kept dry by placing it in a quality zip-loc bag and then a silnylon ditty bag. Place your trail name, real name, and address on each item, in case you lose it.

  Some people will pack knee braces, just in case of an injury. My set weighed 16 ounces. If you feel you need to bring them, try bringing only one, and alternate which knee receives the benefit.

  Reading material and books can be very relaxing on easy hiking days. Some hikers bring magazines or newspapers to share, leaving them behind in shelters or hiker boxes when they finish. But, books and magazines are heavy. Paperback books can be cut apart, and the sections mailed ahead to post office drops. When a section is finished, it is left at a shelter, and hikers following behind read the same novel. Opinions vary whether this is good. The shelter maintainers may decide to carry reading material out as trash if the publication is offensive to a segment of the population.

  I never could remember the Mace in my fanny pack when it was most needed, so I quit carrying it. Some people think it would come in handy against mean dogs, wild animals or human intruders. If one chooses to bring it, a test fire and safe carrying place would be wise.

  Pets are a luxury and a headache on any long trail. They will have health issues just as you will, perhaps even requiring medical attention. They need a lot of food, and water. Sometimes they become weary and cannot carry their own supplies, which means you will have to do it. Dogs chase small animals, as well as bears, and they can get lost. Dogs have chased goats right off a cliff. Cats have been known to wander off completely, or needed to be carried on top of the pack.

   Pets are illegal in National Parks, and you will be required to board your pet, skip that section, or try to hike through and risk fines and expulsion. Not everyone likes animals, however well behaved. Before bringing your pet, research the terrain, services available, and back-up plans in case they are injured. Pets make great companions, but they require energy, money and wisdom to keep them safe, happy and inoffensive to others.

  Perhaps I shouldn’t list rope as a luxury. It can be used to guy-out non-freestanding shelters on wooden platforms. It is useful for hanging items, like food bags, packs, and dirty or wet laundry. Not much is needed, but if you decide to carry some, a test weight of about 40 pounds would be adequate. I never carried more than a couple feet of cordage, as listed above, and then got rid of that on my AT thru hike. I just never used it.

  In this final chapter, we will apply all ultralight tips discussed in Chapter 7 by beginning with 12 patterns for gear you can make your self.

   An important benefit to making your own gear is that you can have it the exact dimensions you need, and use the lightest fabric available. Clothing and raingear that fits well is not too large, packs easily and keeps you warmer. Tarps can be pared down and shaped for your preferred configurations. You can choose how many cubic inches your pack will be, adding custom shoulder straps and a hip belt, if you want. A pack cover can be made to fit that pack specifically. Stoves, windscreens, pot supports and cups can be made to nest within your pot, which is much more efficient concerning both space and weight.

  Special features can be added in the process. Ditty bags sewn on to rain jackets and ponchos serve as gear pockets when hiking, and as self-stuffing bags when the item is not being used. A stuff sack sewn to the inside of a sleeping bag serves as vapor barrier on cold nights. Tarps can have ditty bags sewn in for gear pockets, which then serve as self-stuff sacks. No-see-um netting can be added to tarps, making them nearly bug proof. Loops and ultralight hooks can be sewn onto just about any gear item and are useful for hanging it when drying, clipping on various items, or securing it to your pack. The list of potential features is limited only by your imagination.

  If you simplify designs and eliminate extra zippers, closures, seams and other breaches in the fabric, it will make the piece lighter, cleaner, and less likely to tear or leak. By using tucks and folds, and cutting the fabric correctly, the weight of seam sealing material can be reduced.

   Among the many shelters I designed and used extensively are the Cherokee and the Tacoma Solo. Reading my comparison of these two ultralight solo tents should be helpful before you design your own. Both had seamless canopies, reinforced silnylon-staking loops, and were designed to use hiking poles as the frame.

  The Cherokee weighed only 19 ounces, and needed a minimum of 4 stakes for pitching. It was shaped like a long tapering pup tent, was aerodynamic, and had reinforced stitching and side pulls. While testing it on the first 1,089 miles of the PCT, I noticed that the Cherokee held up very well in high winds. None of my staking loops ever tore lose, even when rocks were required to keep the stakes from pulling out. However, the back pole, a café curtain rod, bent from the wind. This tent required both hiking poles for the front, so a third pole had to be brought along to support the back. The Tacoma design solved this problem.  Only one hiking pole is required to set up this spacious tent, which is pitched like a 5x9 tarp with a floor and beak. Some backpackers use only one hiking pole, some don't use any hiking poles. A tent that required 3 poles seemed excessive.

  The Cherokee could be set up with only 4 stakes. However, being long and narrow to save weight, the sides tended to slope inward. So, I found myself using the side pull-out loops often. Then, with the high winds encountered in the desert, and in the Sierra, I would also stake each loop by the front poles. This brought the total stakes needed to 8. The Tacoma is exceptionally stable, being a steep angled design. My Tacoma held up to storm and wind with only 6 stakes. I didn’t bring any stakes for the side lifts, and they were less important than those for the Cherokee.  When I was hiking the AT, I usually found something to tie those lifts to.

  The tapering foot end of the Cherokee was only 20 inches tall which resulted in the bottom half of the tent being used basically just for sleeping. The Tacoma design made the entire floor space accessible; with one entire side being used for the door, which in this trapezoidal configuration, measured 5 feet. When packing up in rain, or confined in the evenings due to high mosquito activity, that spacious feeling was very welcome.

  The Cherokee had the mesh door opening to one side and attached on the other. A long Velcro strip held the screen bottom, side of the screen and vestibule door closed, and this represented a total of about 10 feet of Velcro. When taking down the shelter, all Velcro had to be matched carefully, to prevent damage to the mesh. With my Tacoma, the drop-down, draping mesh door had no Velcro, and simply tucked under the bathtubbed floor. The storm door was sewn in on one side, and clipped tightly to the other side, nestling under the beak. This simple design saved weight, prevented damage to the screen, and facilitated a quick take-down and stuffing in the mornings.

  They both were gray, single walled, silnylon tents, and worked well as stealth shelters, being nearly undetectable when pitched off trail.

  It is difficult to compare condensation, because the climates are so different. In the PCT desert and High Sierra where the Cherokee was tested, it was either dry, or the elevations were over 9,000 feet. When we were in high elevations, the condensation was due to the coolness of the night. On the AT thru-hike, where the Tacoma was tested, it is very damp and rainy. Condensation was wiped down with a bandana on several occasions. On nights that I could leave the door open, very little condensation occurred.

  The weights of each tent are similar. The Cherokee weighed 19 ounces. It had an inferior seam sealant. The Tacoma, with its high quality seam sealant, weighed 17 ounces. It is reported as 16 ounces, but after we applied the sealant, it increased to17. With the two additional stakes and back pole needed for the Cherokee, the difference between the weights went up to 4 ounces.

Hopefully this dissertation will aid you in your shelter designs.       

  You will need to decide which fabric will work for you. One great resource for purchasing all types and weights of fabric and hardware is Quest Outfitters at 4919 Hubner Rd., Sarasota, Florida. Their toll free number is 800-359-6931. They are very helpful and send out a free catalogue upon request, with a lot of useful information. Another supplier is Outdoor Wilderness, at 16415 Midland Blvd., in Nampa, Idaho. Their toll free number is 800-693-7467. Ask for their free, informative catalogue as well. Comparison shop, and ask questions in order to avoid purchasing the wrong materials.

  Once you get your fabric, do only minimal cutting to eliminate seams. Practice with a paper or plastic model to get the right angles. Think about doubling fabric over the top of a pocket in order to add a flap, instead of sewing on a flap. The whole piece of gear is stronger when uncut, and will require less reinforcement and seam sealing. This is especially important in shelters, canopy seams, packs and raingear. Eliminate something whose only purpose is decoration. If it’s not functional, then it is wasted weight.

  To estimate the weight of any new project, determine the following factors: weight per square foot, or per square yard of any fabrics you intend to use, weight per linear inch of any web straps, Velcro or cordage, and the weights of any hardware or clips which will be needed.

  For instance, I had a large piece of egg-carton type foam padding to use for car camping. It weighed 2 pounds, 14 ounces and measured 48 inches wide by 69 inches long. First, I found out how many square inches of foam I had by multiplying 48 by 69, which equaled 3,312 square inches. There are 144 square inches in a square foot (12 x12), so I divided 3312 by 144 and found that this piece of foam is 23 square feet exactly. Two pounds and 14 ounces are 46 ounces. 46 ounces divided by 23 square feet shows me that each square foot will weigh 2 ounces. A sleeping pad, which measures 20 inches wide by 40 inches long, would weigh 11.1 ounces. Twenty inches times forty inches equals 800 square inches. 800 divided by 144 (inches per square foot) is 5.5 square feet. Multiply square feet by its weight and you get the total, which, in this instance, is 11.1 ounces.

   Perhaps the weight is given per square yard. This is different than linear yard. A square yard is 36 inches by 36 inches. Some fabrics are 64-66 inches wide. A linear yard of 64-inch fabric actually is 1.7 square yards. Silicone impregnated rip-stop nylon is 1.3 ounces per square yard, no-see-um netting is 1.1 ounces per square yard, and tyvek is 1.85 ounces per square yard. Pack cloth varies in weight, and the weight will usually be listed in the catalogue. 420 denier is quite heavy, weighing 8 ounces per square yard. An oxford 200 denier is only 4 ounces per square yard.

  If you are making a project that requires a 120 inch piece of silnylon by its full width, generally 65 inches, we will need to find out how many square yards that is in order to get a weight, because that is the value we know. We are starting with inches and dividing down until we get to square yards. A quick estimate would be 120 inches equals 10 feet, 65 inches are 5.41 feet. Ten feet times 5.41 feet is 54.1 square feet. There are 9 square feet in a yard. So, divide 54.1 square feet by 9 square feet and you get 6.018 square yards of fabric. If the fabric weighs 1.3 ounces per square yard, you have a total of 7.82 ounces. If the fabric is pack cloth, and weighs 8 ounces you have 48.14 ounces. If it’s no-see- um netting, the weight is 6.61 ounces.

   A 30-inch lightweight nylon zipper will add about an ounce (28.5 grams), 6 feet of 1 inch wide web strapping will add about 34 grams. Light, plastic buckles weigh 3 grams each, cord locks are 1 gram each, 5/8-inch Velcro is about 10 grams per yard, which includes both hook and loop sides.

  Seam sealing of 25 feet of shelter fabric will add between one and two ounces, if used directly on the seam, for a width of no more than ½ inch.

  These weights only represent estimates. Fabric weights may vary by 10 % from those listed in the catalogues.

Equipment
A
good sewing machine
is the first thing you will want for making your own gear.
You don't need decorative stitching, so an older machine is fine. It just needs straight stitching, with reverse. If you plan to sew any knit fabrics, using a zigzag stitch will help keep stitches from breaking when the fabric is stretched.  Some of the older models have variable needle positions, which is useful when applying zippers. Get to know your machine before embarking on a large or difficult project. Improper threading is the biggest culprit in broken threads and poor tension. If stitches are uneven, or tension is wrong, the seams will be weak. A good cleaning and oiling, and installing sharp, new needles can solve problems, too. I have two older Singer models, made with metal parts, and I love them both.
Sharp shears should
be used for the initial cutting of any fabrics. If your scissors are dull, they will not cut precisely, and may even tear the edges. Using your shears on paper will dull them, so keep them separate from other household tools.
Small craft scissors should
be used for fine trimming, snipping around corners and cutting lose threads. You don't want to use the big scissors then, because one small clip can ruin gear. These need to be sharp, and pointed.
Thread
should be the best you can find
in either a 100% nylon or polyester. Do not use a cotton-coated brand. Serger thread, sometimes labeled "for overlock machines", is high quality, comes on a large cone, can be set alongside the machine on the work surface and threaded directly onto your sewing machine.
Sewing Needles
of the proper size and make are crucial to good stitches. If you insert the needle backwards, or bend the needle, you will have no stitches.

A ballpoint needle
is used for any knit fabrics, including fleece.
Standard points
are used for any woven fabric, including rip-stop. If the fabric stretches, or gets runs, it needs a ballpoint needle. If it frays, or the treads come off in rows, it is woven and needs a standard needle. The size of the needle is also important. Use a smaller size (11 for Singer machines) for silnylon and no-see-um netting. A 14 or 16 can be used when sewing Velcro strips to this fabric. Pack cloth will also require a heavier, size 16-needle. Be sure you buy the brand that fits your machine. Periodically change needles to maintain a sharp point.

A Cord threader
that can be made from a plastic margarine lid is useful for threading cords through the casings of hoods, ditty bags and stuff sacks. At one time, I used a safety pin, but that caused some scoring of the silnylon casing, which would rip later. To make a threader, cut a piece of durable plastic the size of a whole almond. In the center of this shape, cut a small hole. To use your threader, pull the first 6 inches of cord through the hole and fold the cord over, as you would thread a needle. This will keep the cord from coming out of the threader and getting lost inside the casing. When drawing elastic cord through pack covers, tie a double knot to prevent trouble. The perimeter of a pack cover can be nearly 15 feet long, and if you lose your elastic half way through, it's quite aggravating.

Safety pins
are useful for holding silnylon together.
Some people use straight pins when sewing, but they will slide out of this slippery fabric. Straight pins will work fine in fleece and taffeta. Place pins in the seam allowances to prevent small holes, which could cause leaking, if not seam sealed. Lay heavy objects like books on top of silnylon when cutting on a flat surface.  This will help hold the fabric in place without marring it.
Chalk and black marking pens
are used to mark the positions for staking loops, cutting lines, placement of Velcro tabs, zippers, and pockets. Chalk works well on silnylon. Marking pens can also be used, but may rub off before drying.  They may also permanently discolor the main area. Try to mark in seam allowances, or where a loop will cover this mark. You may not be able to remove any marks later.
Measuring devices
such as a metal carpenter's square, plastic tape measurer 120 inches long, and a heavy-duty yardstick are all great tools. A 25-foot retractable metal tape measure is wonderful, too. When cutting large projects you will want a long straight edge, such as an 8-foot long 2x2 or "quarter-round" for marking long, straight lines.