Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli (34 page)

Ravage, Marcus,
30
,
33

RC Cola Company,
79

Real Kosher,
95

Reconstructionist Movement,
81

Reich, Benjamin,
34

Reichert, Tom,
122

Reilly, Paul,
159

Reiner, Estelle,
151

Reiner, Rob,
150–151

relish,
85

Remach Kosher Meat Products,
39

Reuben, Arnold,
58
,
60–62

Reuben sandwich,
144
,
172

Reuben’s Delicatessen (New York),
1
,
10
,
56
,
57
,
58
,
60
,
61
,
62

Rialto,
64
,
65

Richardson, Bobby,
101

Richman, Alan,
69

Ridgewood, Queens,
87

Rischin, Moses,
32

rise of ethnic food,
129–138

Rivers, Joan,
151

Riviana Foods,
130

RKO Movie Theatre (Queens),
87

roast beef,
xii
,
89
,
106
,
110
,
153

Robbins, Jerome,
116

Robins, L. H.,
26
,
72
,
76

Robinson, Bill “Bojangles,”
68

Rockefeller, Nelson,
10

Rogov, Daniel,
19
,
78
,
136

rolled beef,
11
,
85
,
116
,
184

Rooney, Pat,
68

Roosevelt, Franklin Delano,
92

Roosevelt, Theodore,
42

Rosen’s Delirama (Memphis, TN),
104

Rosenbaum, Aharon,
23

Rosenbaum, Ron,
164

Rosenberg, Herb,
80

Rosenblatt, Gary,
187

Rosenblum’s Delicatessen (New York),
80

Rosenfeld, Isaac,
148

Roth, Philip,
132

Rothstein, Al,
56

Rothstein, Arnold,
60

Rotkovitz, Miryam,
132

Roxbury, Boston,
100
,
101

Royal Farms,
121

Rubin, Benny,
67

Rubin, Rabbi Schulem,
159

Rubin’s Delicatessen (Boston),
101

Rubin-Dorsky, Jeffrey,
152

Rudnick, Paul,
168

“Rumenye, Rumenye” (song),
22

Runyon, Damon,
63

Russ and Daughters (New York),
184

Rustin, Bayard,
10

Ryan, Meg,
150–152
,
151

Sacks, Karen Brodkin,
115

Saint Aubin, Charles Germain de,
19

salami,
2
,
32
,
37
,
47
,
78
,
85
,
99
,
101
,
104
,
105
,
110
,
111
,
114
,
115
,
116
,
118
,
122
,
123
,
124
,
139
,
143
,
144
; in pop culture,
146–147
,
178
,
185
; chicken salami,
85
,
87
,
88
,
89
; sending salami overseas,
91–92

Sales, Soupy,
4

Salupsky, Isidore P.,
82

Sammy’s Rumanian Restaurant (New York),
167

“Samurai Deli” skit,
141

San Antonio,
98

sandwich, invention of,
5–6
; overstuffed,
1
,
6
,
9
,
20
,
55
,
112
,
141
,
145
,
168
,
175
,
179
,
183

sandwich shops,
56

Santa Monica, California,
104

Sardi’s Restaurant (New York),
6

Sarna, Jonathan,
127

sauerkraut,
85
,
108

Saul’s Delicatessen (Berkeley, CA),
174

sausages,
xvi
,
2
, in European Jewish diet,
20–22
; on Lower East Side,
25–29
,
32
,
34
; factories,
38–40
,
45
,
49
,
79
,
94
,
99
; in the South,
104
; sexual associations,
122
,
192n27
; in literature,136

Sax, David,
13
,
58
,
173

scams involving non-kosher (
treyf
) meat,
49–50

Scarsdale, New York,
171

Schirra, Wally,
111

Schlachter’s Kosher Delicatessen (New York),
117

Schlesinger, Arthur,
12

Schmulka Bernstein’s Delicatessen (New York),
39
,
89
,
133

Schneier’s Delicatessen (Brooklyn),
114

Schnipper’s Delicatessen (Brooklyn),
114

Scholem, Richard Jay,
157

Schrafft’s Soda Fountains,
36

Schwartz, Arthur,
9
,
13
185

Schwartz, Louis,
91

Schweller, Louis,
95

Sculle, Keith A.,
36

Seabury, Florence Guy,
74

Second Avenue Deli (New York),
3
,
13
,
68
,
139
,
157
,
162–164
,
175
,
181
,
184
,
185

second generation Jews,
xiv
,
7
,
10
,
20
,
51
,
55–56
,
71
,
77
,
79
,
81
,
86
,
130
,
155
,
187

Second World War and non-Jewish foods,
91
,
97

Sedaka, Neil,
110

Seelos, Annette,
62

Segal’s Delicatessen (Memphis, TN),
104

Seinfeld
,
145
,
165

“Send a Salami to Your Boy . . . ,”
91–92

Sephardic food,
35
,
87
,
156
,
157
,
173

settlement houses,
36–37

sex and the delicatessen,
3
,
9
,
14
,
17
,
45–46
; in advertising,
122
; in film,
148–152

Shandler, Jeffrey,
169

Shapiro, Edward,
115

shelamim sacrifice,
5

Sheraton, Mimi,
108
,
137
,
141
,
171

Sherman, Allan,
55
,
145–148

Sherman, John D.,
72

Sherman, Rose,
146

Shipley, George,
111

Shipman, Sammy,
61

shopping malls,
115

show business and the delicatessen,
59–64

Shtreyt, Shlomo,
24

Silver, Laura,
13

Simon, Kate,
88

Sinai Kosher,
38

Sinclair, Jo,
75
. See also
Wasteland

Singer’s (Liberty, New York),
108

Sixteen Tons
(song),
116

Sixth Avenue Delicatessen (New York),
91

Skyscraper
(musical),
149

Smith, Joe,
56

Smokler, Daniel,
87

So Jewtastic
(video),
186

soda fountain,
9
,
36

Solomon, Barbara,
95

Solomon, King,
72

Somers, Ethel,
71

soul food,
172
,
178

South Gate (California),
104

Soyer, Daniel,
9

Spinoza, Baruch,
149

Squire’s Delicatessen,
90

Stage Delicatessen (New York),
56
,
60
,
61
,
70
,
114
,
167

Stage Stop Delicatessen (Los Angeles),
104

Stamberg, Susan,
89

state university campus at Binghamton (New York),
110

state university campus at Cortland (New York),
110

Stern, Daniel,
3

Stiller, Jerry,
145

Stillman, Dr. Irwin,
143

Stouffer’s,
130

Strange Interlude
(play),
63

stuffed cabbage,
105

Sumter (South Carolina),
101

Sunday as delicatessen night,
88
,
106

Sunday closing (“blue”) laws,
41–44

Sunshine Provision Company (NY),
49

supermarket deli counter,
117–119

Sussman, Adeena,
179

Sussman, Jacob,
98

Sussman and Lev’s Delicatessen (Baltimore),
98
,
100

sustainability,
174–176

Takada, Hidehiko,
156

Tarlow, Leo,
39
,
95

Tavern on the Green (New York),
6

Taylor, Philip,
136

Taylor, Sybil,
8

technologies and the delicatessen,
74

Temple in Jerusalem,
4–5

Ten Commandments
(film),
127

terroir
,
173–174

Thaler, Susan,
117

third place/third space concept,
7–9
,
186–187

Tiberias Restaurant (New York),
168

Times Square,
59

tongue (beef),
xiii
,
2
,
11
,
35
,
47
,
58
,
64
,
74
,
83
,
89
,
94
,
95
,
99
,
104
,
114
,
143
,
184

Toots Shor’s (New York),
106

Traif (Williamsburg, Brooklyn),
178

Trillin, Calvin,
139

Tuchman, Gaye,
131

Tucker, Sophie,
151

turkey, roast,
xii
,
11
,
55
,
58
,
62
,
143
,
145
,
149
,
150

Ukor Kosher Meat Company (New York),
40

Ullman, Hans,
22

Upper West Side, New York,
77
,
80
,
155
,
157
,
165

vaudeville routines,
48
,
53–54

Versace,
137

Vienna Beef,
38

Vienna Sausage Company (Chicago),
10

Vitmin (Lithuanian delicatessen),
24

Voice of the Delicatessen Industry
,
82

Volk, Patricia,
29

Volk, Sussman,
29

Vongerichten, Jean-Georges,
179

Waldbaum, Ira,
120

Waldbaum’s,
120

Walsh, George ,
27

Ward, David,
77

wartime shortages,
92

Washington, D.C.,
74
,
123
,
171
,
172

Wasteland
(novel),
75

Webster, H. T. ,
26

Weingarten, Joseph A.,
114

Weiss, Sam,
146

Weiss, Steve,
167

Weiss’s Delicatessen (Baltimore),
98

Welles, Orson,
102

Wepner, Morris,
78

Wexler’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles),
172

When Harry Met Sally
(film),
150–152
,
151
,
183

White, Barry,
165

whitefish,
108

Whiteman, Paul,
61

Willensky, Elliot,
81
,
170

Williams, Jeanne,
122

Williamsburg, Brooklyn,
xi
,
44
,
87
,
178

Wilson, Bee,
6

Wilson, S. J.,
76

Winter Garden Theater,
60

Wise Sons Delicatessen (San Francisco) 172

Wolfie’s Delicatessen (Cocoa Beach),
110

Wolfie’s Delicatessen (Miami Beach),
106
,
107

Wolfman, Ira,
11

Wolitz, Seth,
2

Woloshin’s (Los Angeles),
102

Woolworth’s.
See
F. W. Woolworth Company

Works Progress Administration,
80

Wurzburger, Rabbi Walter S.,
154

Yezierska, Anzia,
32

Yizkor
(Memorial) Books,
23–24

Yom Kippur (Day of Atonement),
85

Young, Brigham,
72

Young, John,
111

Youngerman’s Delicatessen (Williamsburg, Brooklyn),
44

Your Show of Shows
(TV show),
107

Zabar’s (New York),
165
,
184

Zanger, Mark,
120

Zarkower’s Delicatessen (White Plains, New York),
116

Zentner, Si,
146

Zieff, Howard,
125

Ziegelman, Jane,
13

Ziegfeld Follies,
62

Zion Kosher,
39–40
,
78
,
95
,
118
,
119
,
124
,
185