Pie and Pastry Bible (112 page)

EQUIPMENT

A 36- to 48-inch-wide table, preferably round, covered with a clean sheet or tablecloth rubbed with a little flour; a 17- by 12-inch cookie sheet or half-size sheet pan; heavy-duty aluminum foil; and 2 narrow bread pans (for support)

Make the dough, page 387.

MAKE THE CHERRY FILLING

In a small saucepan, stir together the sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Stir in the cherries, along with any reserve juices. Allow the mixture to sit for at least 10 minutes for the cherries to start exuding some of their juices.

Over low heat, bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly. The juice will thicken and become translucent. Allow it to simmer for 1 minute. Empty it into a bowl and very gently stir in the almond extract. Allow it to cool completely.

MAKE THE CHEESE FILLING

In a large mixer bowl, preferably with a whisk beater, beat the cream cheese and sugar until very smooth, about 3 minutes. Add the egg yolks, beating until smooth and scraping down the sides once or twice. Add the salt, lemon zest, lemon juice, and vanilla and beat until incorporated. Beat in the sour cream and cornstarch just until blended. Refrigerate while stretching the strudel dough.

Make a foil collar:
Tear off a 22-inch-long piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Brush some of the butter the entire length in a 12-inch-wide strip down the middle. Lay it on the baking sheet.

Roll and stretch the dough (see page 389).

Preheat the oven to 350°F. at least 15 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack at the highest level and place a baking stone or cookie sheet on it before preheating.

FILL AND ROLL THE STRUDEL

Starting about 6 inches from the bottom edge of the dough, spread the cheese filling across the dough in a 3- by 14-inch rectangle (it will spread to about 16 inches during rolling). Gently spoon the cherry topping over it. Use the sheet or cloth or your fingers to lift the bottom edge of the dough and flip it over the filling. Use the sides of the cloth to flip the sides of the dough over the filling, leaving a 3- to 4-inch border on either side of the filling to tuck under at the end. The strudel dough will be about 20 inches wide at this point. Brush the top of the dough and the side borders with some of the butter and use the cloth to roll it, brushing it with butter every other roll. To allow for expansion, do not wrap the dough too tightly. If necessary, brush off any flour clinging to the dough before brushing it with butter. Use the cloth to flip the roll onto the foil band on the baking sheet, seam side down. Tuck under the ends of the dough. The strudel will be about 16 inches long. Brush the top with the remaining melted butter and use a sharp knife to cut a few horizontal steam vents in the dough.

Bring up the foil all around the strudel roll to support it, first folding over the long sides so that they are 3 inches high (the strudel will rise) and then turning up the short ends. Place a bread pan right up against each long side of the roll, in the center, for additional support. (It is best to bake this strudel shortly after making it.)

Bake the strudel for 40 to 50 minutes or until the pastry is golden and the filling is set. A thermometer inserted in the center will read 165°F. (It should be no higher than 185°F. in order to keep the filling smooth and creamy; the filling will jiggle slightly when the pan is moved.) Remove the pan to a wire rack and allow the strudel to cool for 30 minutes.

Sprinkle the strudel lightly with powdered sugar, if desired. Cut into 1¼- to 1½-inch pieces on the bias. Discard the end pieces or cut up and serve in pieces for those who enjoy extra pastry without the filling. Serve at once.

VARIATIONS

“FRUIT PERFECT”™ CHERRY/CHEESE STRUDEL
Place 1 jar of Fruit Perfect Cherries (see Sources, page 639; 13.5 ounces/400 grams) in a strainer suspended over a bowl and stir them gently to drain out all the slightly thickened juices. Place the juices in a small saucepan.

In a small bowl, stir together 2 tablespoons of sugar (omit this if you like very tart cherry filling), 1½ teaspoons of cornstarch, and 1½ teaspoons of water until the cornstarch is dissolved. Add this to the cherry juice. Over low heat, stirring constantly, bring to a boil. Simmer, stirring gently, for 1 minute or until very thick. Empty it into a small bowl, add the cherries, and allow to cool completely.

FLUFFY CREAMY CHEESE FILLING
Folding in a small amount of meringue produces an airier filling that is particularly compatible with the crisp delicate pastry, but it is a little trickier to roll the pastry because the filling is softer before baking. If you have a gentle touch, however, you should have no problem.

In a mixing bowl, beat 1 egg white until foamy. Add
teaspoon of cream of tartar and beat at medium speed, gradually adding 1½ teaspoons of sugar, until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised. Fold this meringue into the cream cheese mixture.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 3 days.

HUNGARIAN POPPY SEED STRUDEL

(Mákos Kalácz)

T
his strudel is dense with a ground black poppy seed filling through which the thinnest possible crust is spiraled. In Hungary, this poppy seed filling is used both in a strudel and in this easy-to-make pastry that is like a pie crust with yeast. I learned the strudel version from the pastry chefs at Gundel’s Restaurant in
Budapest. This recipe comes from my friend and former student Jan Kish, whose mother makes it every Christmas Eve. Jan remembers as a child sneaking downstairs in the middle of the night to taste some fresh from the oven. If you love poppy seeds, as do I, you will have to try this recipe.

OVEN TEMPERATURE: 375 F. • BAKING TIME: 30 TO 35 MINUTES
MAKES: A 16-INCH-LONG BY 4-INCH-WIDE BY 2-INCH-HIGH STRUDEL SERVES: 6 TO 8
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
Dough unsalted butter	2 tablespoons	(9.25 ounces) 1 ounce	(261 grams) 28 grams
bleached all-purpose flour	1 cup (dip and sweep method)	5 ounces	142 grams
warm water	scant ¼ liquid cup	•	•
sugar	½ teaspoon	•	•
compressed fresh yeast,* active dry yeast (not rapid-rise) or SAF-Instant yeast (page 654)	1½ tablespoons, packed 0.75 ounce 21 grams	2¼ teaspoons 0.25 ounce 7 grams	2 teaspoons 0.25 ounce 7 grams
salt	¼ teaspoon	•	•
½ large egg yolk	1½ teaspoons	0.3 ounce	9 grams
Poppy Seed Filling milk	½ liquid cup	4.25 ounces	121 grams
poppy seeds, ground†	approx. 2 cups‡	8 ounces	227 grams
sugar	cup	4.6 ounces	32 grams
finely grated lemon zest	½ teaspoon	•	•
freshly squeezed lemon juice	2½ tablespoons	1.3 ounces	39 grams
golden raisins, plumped in warm water**	½ cup	2.5 ounces	72 grams
Egg Glaze lightly beaten egg	1 tablespoon	•	•
*Fresh yeast causes dough to rise faster.
†Grind in a poppy seed grinder or a blender.
‡1 cups whole seeds.
**In a small bowl, place the raisins and ¼ cup of water, heated until hot. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to sit, stirring once, until softened, about 30 minutes. Drain, reserving the water to use as part of the water for the dough.

EQUIPMENT

A heavy cookie sheet, lightly buttered

MAKE THE DOUGH

Cut the butter into ½-inch cubes, wrap them in plastic wrap, and freeze them for at least 30 minutes. Place the flour in a reclosable gallon-size freezer bag (or covered bowl) and freeze it for at least 15 minutes.

Proof the yeast, if using active dry or fresh (do not use hot water, or the yeast will die): In a small bowl, combine the water (ideally a tepid 100°F. if using fresh yeast, a little warmer, 110°F., if using dry), 1 teaspoon of the sugar, and the yeast. If using fresh yeast, crumble it slightly as you add it. Set the mixture aside in a draft-free spot for 10 to 20 minutes. By this time, the mixture should be full of bubbles. (If not, the yeast is too old to be useful and you must start again with newer yeast.)

Place the flour and salt in a food processor with the metal blade
^*
and process for a few seconds to combine them. Add the frozen butter cubes and pulse until the butter is the size of peas. Add the egg yolk and pulse 6 times just to incorporate it. Remove the cover and add the yeast mixture. Pulse about 15 times or until most of the butter is the size of small peas. (Toss with a fork to assess the texture.) The mixture will be in particles and will not hold together.

Empty it out onto a large piece of plastic wrap and, using the wrap and your knuckles, knead and press the mixture until it holds together in one piece. Transfer the dough to a work surface and knead it for about 10 minutes or until satiny smooth, adding flour if necessary. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and allow it to rise until doubled in bulk, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

MAKE THE POPPY SEED FILLING

In a small saucepan, heat the milk. Add the poppy seeds, stirring until the milk is absorbed (a few seconds). Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the remaining ingredients, except the raisins, until incorporated. Cool the filling to room temperature.

On a lightly floured sheet of plastic wrap, roll the dough to a rectangle about 15 inches long by
11
inches wide and as thin as possible. Spread small dollops of the poppy seed filling evenly over the dough. Then gently spread it evenly over the dough, out to the edges. Strew the raisins evenly on top. Starting at a long side, roll up the dough jelly-roll fashion, gently tucking under the ends. The roll will be about 14 inches by 3 inches wide.