Pie and Pastry Bible (79 page)

Sprinkle the apple slices with the lemon juice to keep them from browning. Arrange the apple slices, cored sides facing toward the center, overlapping in concentric circles, starting from the outer edge of the pan. If you run out of room, push a few slices of the fruit closer together and insert the remaining slices evenly in between. Fold the overhanging border of dough over the outer edge of the apples, helping it to pleat softly at even intervals, and brush this dough rim with a little milk or water. Sprinkle the apples and the dough rim with the sugar. (This will give the border a crunchy texture.)

Dot the apples with the pieces of butter and bake for 40 minutes or until the apples are tender when pierced with a skewer and the dough is crisp. Toward the end of baking, with a metal spatula, carefully lift up the crust and check to make sure it is not burning. If it is very dark, lower the heat to 375°F. or remove the tart (without the stone) to a higher rack to finish cooking.

Cool the tart on the pan on a rack until warm, then glaze if desired.

MAKE THE GLAZE (OPTIONAL)

In a saucepan over medium-low heat, heat the apricot preserves until boiling and strain them. Stir in the liqueur and brush the glaze onto the apples. (This creates a shiny finish and piquant taste.)

VARIATION

PEAR GALETTE
Replace the apples with 2 large firm but ripe Bartlett pears (about 12 to 14 ounces total); they should have a pronounced pear aroma. Peel, halve lengthwise, and core the pears. Slice lengthwise into
-inch slices. Arrange the slices, pointed ends toward the center, in overlapping circles on the pastry. To form a center pear-shaped decoration, trim 2 slices to make them shorter but maintain the pear shape and place them, slightly overlapping, curved sides out.

Cut a small piece of stem or vanilla bean and place it on the pointed end. Use only 2 tablespoons of sugar to sprinkle on top.

STORE

Room temperature, up to 2 days.

NOTE

A half-size galette can be made using a 9-inch pan. Roll the dough less than
inch thick and large enough to cut an 11-inch circle.

UNDERSTANDING

The flaky cream cheese pie crust is ideal for this tart because of its mellow, buttery flavor and its texture, which is slightly softer than the Basic Flaky Pie Crust (page 22), but the flaky pie crust or one of its variations can be substituted. For the crispiest, flakiest effect of all, puff pastry (page 417) is your dough!

THREE TATINS

(Caramelized Upside-down Tarts)

>T
he Tatin sisters, in their hotel in the Loire Valley of France, made apple tarte Tatin famous at the beginning of the century. Since that time, it has become synonymous with a method of tart baking in which the fruit is caramelized and baked beneath the crust, then inverted before serving. But there are many ways to slice an apple, and I have joined my baking colleagues in trying to achieve a perfect tarte Tatin. I like the apples to be in thick, substantial slices, but not quartered, and the caramel to penetrate them.

When I made my first Tatin, thirty years ago, the prescribed method was to place a layer of sugar and butter in the bottom of a pan, slice in the apples, cover it with the pastry, and bake it, leaving the sugar to caramelize on its own. Then a French chef from Limousin told me making it on top of the stove was the preferred method. He was right. For one thing, caramelizing the sugar before adding the apples enables you to control the degree of caramelization. In addition, basting the apples as they cook in a skillet with the caramel syrup means the caramel will penetrate the fruit, as opposed to merely coating the bottom of it.

I prefer a flaky pie crust to the traditional puff pastry because the steam of the apples destroys the texture of the puff pastry, and puff pastry is not in keeping with the rustic texture of the fruit in this version.

The meltingly tender apples are enough on their own, yet the traditional dollop of cræme fraîche brings just the right tang to the buttery richness of the tart. But here’s the surprise: Pears make a still more delicious version (see page 282). And wait until you try the peach version (page 426)!

APPLE TATIN

EQUIPMENT

A 9½-inch copper Tatin pan or 10-inch ovenproof skillet, preferably nonstick, with a domed cover, and a poultry baster

Make the dough (page 22).

In a large bowl, combine the apples, lemon juice, and sugar and toss to mix. Allow to sit for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Transfer the apples to a colander suspended over a bowl to capture the liquid. The mixture will exude about ½ cup of liquid. Place this liquid and the butter in the pan or skillet and heat over medium heat, stirring often, until bubbling. Continue cooking, stirring often, until the liquid caramelizes and turns a deep amber, about 5 minutes; immediately remove the pan from the heat. (If using a cast-iron pan, remove it from the heat when the liquid turns a light amber, as it will retain the heat and continue cooking.
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Taking care not to touch the caramel, as it is very hot, arrange the apples in slightly overlapping circles over the caramel, heaping them in the middle. They may be slightly higher than the sides of the pan, but they will sink during cooking. Cook, covered, over medium heat for 10 minutes. Uncover and continue cooking, adjusting the heat to as high as possible to evaporate the juices without letting them spatter out of the pan. Cook, basting constantly with the juices, for 10 minutes or until the apples are almost tender when pierced with a skewer and the juices bubble thickly. (Use a pot holder to hold the baster, as even the rubber bulb becomes very hot.) Use a pancake turner to press down the apples gently to close up large gaps.

Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool for 20 to 30 minutes so that the sides of the pan are not too hot when you place on the crust.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. at least 20 minutes before baking. Set an oven rack in the middle position before preheating.

Using a pastry cloth and sleeve rubbed with flour, or two sheets of lightly floured plastic wrap, roll the crust to a circle 1¼ inches larger than the diameter of the pan (about 10¾ inches). Fold it in half or fourths and position it evenly over the apples. Tuck the edges down into the apples, using a small metal spatula if necessary. Work quickly before the pastry warms and softens. Cut about 6 steam vents near the center of the crust.

Place the tart in the oven and bake for 30 minutes or until the pastry is golden brown. Allow it to cool 10 minutes before unmolding. The tart will stay warm for about 1 hour after unmolding. If you find it more convenient to bake the tart ahead, it can stay in the pan for several hours and then be reheated and unmolded shortly before serving. To reheat, place it either directly on the stovetop over medium heat for about 3 minutes or in a preheated 350½F. oven for about 10 minutes or until the juices are bubbling around the sides of the tart.

UNMOLD THE TART

Have ready a serving plate with a slight lip to catch any hot juices. Run a small metal spatula around the sides of the pan. Place the serving plate on top and hold the bottom of the tart pan with a pot holder in your strongest hand. With one decisive motion, invert the tart. Allow the pan to rest in place for a few minutes. Then remove the pan; if using a Tatin pan without handles, slip a small metal spatula under one edge and lift off the pan. If a few apple slices have stuck to the bottom of the pan, lift them off with the spatula and place them on the tart.

Serve the tart warm or at room temperature, accompanied by the cræme fraîche, if desired.

VARIATIONS

PEAR TATIN
Replace the apples with an equal weight of firm but ripe Bartlett pears; they should have a pronounced pear aroma. Peel the pears, halve lengthwise, core, and slice lengthwise into eighths. Use 1 less tablespoon sugar (total 3 ounces/87.5 grams).

PEACH TATIN
See page 426.

STORE

Room temperature, up to 2 days.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

Constant basting causes the caramel syrup to permeate the apples. The juices must reduce to the point where they are bubbling thickly to maintain a crisp pastry crust and to coat the apples thickly.

If desired, after the apples have caramelized, allow them and the pan to cool completely before topping with the crust. When the crust is in place, cover the Tatin tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate up to 8 hours before baking.