Ready for Dessert (40 page)

VARIATION:
You can substitute toasted almonds or walnuts for the pecans.

MAKES ABOUT 35 COOKIES

These barely sweet crisp little cookies are the definitive Italian nibble. Not only do I serve them as perfect bites alongside a
ristretto
(a “tight” espresso), but I also crumble them up and use the bitter almond-scented crumbs in desserts. They make a perfect topping for
Lemon Semifreddo
and give a decidedly Italian touch to
Peach-Amaretti Crisp
.

True amaretti are made with sweet apricot kernels rather than almonds, but since apricot kernels can be difficult to find and not everyone’s keen on eating them (they contain cyanide), I call for almonds in this recipe.

1 cup (125 g) almonds, toasted

1 teaspoon all-purpose flour

½ cup (70 g) powdered sugar

2 large egg whites, at room temperature

Pinch of salt

6 tablespoons (75 g) granulated sugar

1 teaspoon almond extract

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, pulverize the almonds with the flour and powdered sugar until the almonds are very finely ground.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk the egg whites on low speed until frothy. Add the salt, increase the speed to high, and continue whisking until the egg whites begin to hold their shape. Add the granulated sugar 1 tablespoon at a time and continue whisking until the whites form shiny, stiff peaks.

Sprinkle one-third of the almond mixture over the whipped egg whites and fold using a rubber spatula. Fold in the remaining almond mixture in two additions, adding the almond extract with the last addition.

Using a pastry bag fitted with a plain ½-inch (1.5-cm) tip, pipe mounds of batter that are 1½ inches (4 cm) in diameter on the prepared baking sheets, spacing them about ¾ inch (2 cm) apart.

Bake, rotating the baking sheets midway through baking, until the cookies are lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Turn off the oven and let the cookies dry in the oven for 20 minutes.

Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets until firm enough to handle, then use a spatula to transfer them to a wire rack. Let cool completely.

STORAGE:
Amaretti can be stored in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks.

MAKES ABOUT 60 COOKIES

I got a perplexing message from someone who made these biscotti: “They were good, but full of big chunks of chocolate.” I’m not sure if that was meant as a compliment or a criticism, but I do know for sure that it wasn’t a mistake—that’s exactly what I had in mind when I came up with these superchunky chocolate biscotti. They’re perfect for dipping in a large cup of dark coffee or alongside a glass of Cognac after dinner. They’re also great travel cookies—I’m always happy when I pull out a bag midway through a flight or train trip. I make sure to bring extras because when I see the longing looks of passengers around me, I feel pressured to share—and I do, reluctantly.

2½ cups
(350
g) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup (200 g) sugar

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1
¼
cups (155 g) almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped

7 ounces (200 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped into
½
-inch (1.5-cm) chunks

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and the baking powder.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whisk the eggs, sugar, and vanilla on medium speed until the mixture thickens and holds its shape, about 5 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, stir the flour mixture into the egg mixture, then mix in the almonds and chocolate.

On a lightly floured work surface, divide the dough in half. Using dampened hands, shape each half into a log 3 inches (8 cm) in diameter. Set the logs lengthwise on the prepared baking sheet, evenly spacing them apart. Dampen your hands and smooth the surface of the logs.

Bake, rotating the baking sheet midway through baking, until the logs are lightly browned, about 20 minutes. (They will flatten out during baking.) Remove the baking sheet from the oven and decrease the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C). Let the logs cool on the baking sheet for 10 to 15 minutes.

Transfer the logs to a cutting board. With a serrated bread knife, cut each log diagonally into slices ½ inch (1.5 cm) thick. Place the cookies, cut sides up, in a single layer on the baking sheet. (If necessary, use an additional baking sheet.) Bake until the biscotti are firm, about 20 minutes, flipping them midway through baking. Let cool completely; they’ll continue to firm up as they cool.

STORAGE:
The biscotti will keep in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

VARIATION:
You can substitute 1½ cups (240 g) chocolate chips for the chopped chocolate, if you like, although I prefer the irregularity of chocolate chunks in these cookies.

MAKES 50 TO 60 COOKIES

I love chocolate. But sometimes I want something that’s packed with intense chocolate flavor yet not outrageously rich. These biscotti certainly fit the bill. Italians often add a dash of black pepper to desserts and give them the designation
pepato.
I share their affection for a hit of peppery flavor in desserts, but feel free to omit the pepper if you’d like.

¾ cup (90 g) dried sour cherries, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons (30 ml) kirsch, grappa, or rum

2 cups (280 g) all-purpose flour

¾ cups (75 g) unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 large eggs, plus 1 large egg for glazing

1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar

½ teaspoon almond extract

1 cup (125 g) almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped

¾ cup (120 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate chips

2 tablespoons (30 g) coarse-crystal sugar, for sprinkling (see Tip)

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

In a small saucepan, combine the dried cherries and kirsch, grappa, or rum. Bring to a boil, then remove from the heat, cover, and let cool to room temperature.

Into a medium bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, salt, and pepper.

In a large bowl, whisk together the 3 eggs, granulated sugar, and almond extract. Gradually stir in the flour mixture, then add the cherries and their soaking liquid, the almonds, and the chocolate chips and mix just until the dough comes together.

On a lightly floured work surface, divide the dough in half. Using dampened hands, shape each half into a log 3 inches (8 cm) in diameter. Set the logs lengthwise on the prepared baking sheet, evenly spacing them apart. Dampen your hands and gently flatten the tops of the logs.

In a small bowl, whisk the remaining egg. Generously brush the logs with the egg wash, then give the logs a second coat. Sprinkle each log with 1 tablespoon coarse-crystal sugar.

Bake, rotating the baking sheet midway through baking, until the logs feel firm to the touch, about 25 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and decrease the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C). Let the logs cool on the baking sheet for 10 to 15 minutes.

Transfer the logs to a cutting board. With a serrated bread knife, cut each log diagonally into slices ½ inch (1.5 cm) thick. Place the cookies, cut sides up, in a single layer on the baking sheet. (If necessary, use an additional baking sheet.) Bake until firm, 20 to 30 minutes, flipping them midway through baking. Let cool completely; they’ll continue to firm up as they cool.

STORAGE:
The biscotti will keep in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

VARIATION:
Add ⅓ cup (55 g) of cocoa nibs to the dough along with the almonds and chocolate chips.

MAKES ABOUT 50 COOKIES

These cookies are like supersized biscotti, but, unlike biscotti, they’ve never gained wide acceptance outside their native Italy, probably because their name is a bit more of a challenge to pronounce. Thankfully, they’re just as easy to make, and every bit as good.

1¾ cups (245 g) all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

2 large eggs, plus 1 large egg for glazing

1⅓ cups (265 g) sugar

¾ teaspoon vanilla extract

Grated zest of 2 lemons, preferably organic

1½ tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 cups (250 g) almonds, toasted

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt. In a medium bowl, whisk together the 2 eggs, sugar, vanilla, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Add the flour mixture and stir until well blended, then mix in the almonds.

Divide the dough in half and place each half on a prepared baking sheet. Using dampened hands, shape each half into a 13 by 2½-inch (33 by 6-cm) log.

In a small bowl, whisk the remaining egg. Generously brush the logs with the egg wash, then give the logs a second coat.

Bake, rotating the baking sheets midway during baking, until the logs are firm and golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. (They will flatten out during baking.) Remove the baking sheets from the oven and decrease the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C). Let the logs cool on the baking sheets for 10 to 15 minutes.

Transfer the logs to a cutting board. With a serrated bread knife, slice each log crosswise into 1-inch (3-cm) bars. Place the cookies, cut sides up, in a single layer on the baking sheets and bake for 20 minutes. Let cool completely.

STORAGE:
The cooled cookies will keep for up to 1 week stored in an airtight container.

VARIATION:
Substitute toasted hazelnuts for the almonds.

MAKES 25 TO 30 TRUFFLES

I thought I knew all about chocolate truffles until I enrolled in an advanced course in chocolate making at a school for professionals next to the Valrhona factory in France’s Rhône Valley. I spent three very intense days there learning how to combine three simple ingredients—chocolate, cream, and butter—into silky smooth ganache. In the class were eight of the top chocolatiers in the world, plus a ninth person, who quickly realized that he had a lot more to learn about chocolate than he thought he did.