Sausage Making (12 page)

YIELD: 3 LB/1.4 KG

Boneless lamb neck or boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm pieces

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2.40 lb
  
• GRAMS: 1,101
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 80.82
  

Ice water

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 122
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 8.99
  

Harissa spice mix
(store-bought or homemade, see page 184)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 cup
  
• GRAMS: 62
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 4.55
  

Finely diced red onion

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 20
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.44
  

Thinly sliced green onions, white and light green parts only

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 16
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.21
  

Tomato paste

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 13
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.99
  

Finely chopped fresh cilantro

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 12
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.90
  

Finely chopped pickled jalapeños
(store-bought or homemade, see page 190)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 9
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.67
  

Minced garlic

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 4
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.26
  

Finely chopped fresh oregano

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tsp
  
• GRAMS: 2
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.17
  

Sheep casings, rinsed

This flavorful North African–style lamb sausage is probably one of my favorites. I like to make it with lamb neck, which comprises a few small muscles surrounded by hard fat. The fat is incredibly flavorful and absorbs the seasonings in the sausage instead of melting the way pork fat does. If you can't find lamb neck at your local butcher shop, boneless lamb shoulder can be substituted.

You can use my recipe for harissa or substitute a store-bought harissa dry spice blend. If all you're able to find is harissa paste, you should use the same amount but omit the tomato paste in this recipe.

1.   
   1.
   Place the lamb on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
   (see page 23)
   .
   
2.   
   2.
   In a medium bowl, add the ice water, harissa, red onion, green onions, tomato paste, cilantro, pickled jalapeños, garlic, and oregano and stir to combine.
   
3.   
   3.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the meat through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   .
   
4.   
   4.
   Add the spice mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
   (see page 25)
   .
   
5.   
   5.
   Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
   
6.   
   6.
   Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
7.   
   7.
   Stuff the sausage into the sheep casings
   (see page 31)
   and twist into links
   (see page 36)
   .
   
8.   
   8.
   Cook the sausages right away or freeze them for longer storage
   (see page 46)
   . Merguez are best cooked in a sauté pan or griddle over medium-high heat to an internal temperature of 145°F/63°C
   (see page 45)
   . They can also be grilled over indirect heat
   (see page 38)
   , but beware of the dripping fat, which can produce flare-ups and cause the sausage to become dry. If you want, after the sausages have been cooked and removed from the pan, you can cook vegetables in the accumulated fat to serve alongside.
   

YIELD: 3 LB/1.4 KG

Boneless pork shoulder (or a combination of cuts, about 75% lean, 25% fat), cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2.80 lb
  
• GRAMS: 1,286
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 94.40
  

Ice water

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 20
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.50
  

White wine

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 20
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.50
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 16
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.20
  

Fennel seeds

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 15
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.10
  

Red pepper flakes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 4
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.30
  

Hog casings, rinsed (optional)

This is a straightforward recipe for a classic sausage, with some heat from the red pepper flakes and a good amount of fennel seeds, which are left whole. My idea of sausage heaven is an Italian on a soft bun, piled high with cooked peppers and onions. If you want, you can leave this sausage uncased, rolling it into meatballs or using it as a pizza topping.

1.   
   1.
   Place the pork on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
   (see page 23)
   .
   
2.   
   2.
   In a medium bowl, add the ice water, wine, salt, fennel seeds, and red pepper flakes and stir to combine.
   
3.   
   3.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the pork shoulder through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   .
   
4.   
   4.
   Add the spice mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
   (see page 25)
   .
   
5.   
   5.
   Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
   
6.   
   6.
   Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
7.   
   7.
   You can leave this sausage uncased, or stuff into hog casings
   (see page 31)
   and twist into links
   (see page 36)
   . Cook right away or freeze for longer storage
   (see page 46)
   . The cased sausages can be grilled
   (see page 38)
   to an internal temperature of 145°F/63°C; uncased sausage can be crumbled and browned in a sauté pan over medium heat, or added raw to a pizza before it's baked.
   

YIELD: 3 LB/1.4 KG

Boneless pork shoulder (or a combination of cuts, about 75% lean, 25% fat), cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2.00 lb
  
• GRAMS: 1,083
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 79.50
  

Water

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 19
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.42
  

Sauternes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 19
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.42
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 14
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.04
  

Fines herbes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 28
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 2.09
  

Coarsely ground black pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tsp
  
• GRAMS: 5
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.35
  

Taleggio cheese, cut into slices

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 cup
  
• GRAMS: 193
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 14.18
  

Caul fat, soaked
(see page 13)

This is a simple pork sausage with the special addition of Taleggio cheese. Taleggio is a pungent, washed-rind cow's milk cheese from Italy. It's creamy and rich, with a funky flavor. To make the cheese easier to slice, freeze it briefly and lightly oil the blade of your knife before cutting.

1.   
   1.
   Place the pork on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
   (see page 23)
   .
   
2.   
   2.
   In a medium bowl, add the water, Sauternes, salt, fines herbes, and black pepper and stir to combine.
   
3.   
   3.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the meat through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   .
   
4.   
   4.
   Add the herb mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
   (see page 25)
   .
   
5.   
   5.
   Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
   
6.   
   6.
   Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
7.   
   7.
   Form the meat mixture into 4-oz/115-g patties, about
   ¹
   /
   ₂
   in/12 mm thick, and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Position the caul fat on your work surface and, with a sharp knife, cut the caul into 12-in-/30.5-cm-diameter circles. Place the taleggio in the center of the farce. Wrap each patty in caul fat. The crepinettes are best grilled over indirect heat
   (see page 38)
   or cooked in an oiled pan over medium heat
   (see page 45)
   ; start the crepinettes seam-side down, turning once midway through cooking, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 145°F/63°C.
   

YIELD: 3 LB/1.4 KG

Boneless rabbit, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes