Sausage Making (20 page)

Onion powder

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 3
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.22
  

Cure No. 1
(see page 15)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.11
  

Crushed ice

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 cup
  
• GRAMS: 230
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 16.88
  

Sheep casings, rinsed

When I think of all-beef hot dogs, I think of the small, snappy links served at Gray's Papaya in New York City. They're rich and juicy, griddled until crispy on the outside: the perfect all-beef dog. If you can't find neck, plate, or shank meat, substitute chuck for all of the meat and fat called for in the recipe.

1.   
   1.
   Place the meat and fat on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
   (see page 23)
   .
   
2.   
   2.
   In a small bowl, add the salt, paprika, granulated garlic, black pepper, onion powder, and Cure No. 1 and stir to combine.
   
3.   
   3.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the meat and fat through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   .
   
4.   
   4.
   Add the spice mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
   (see page 25)
   .
   
5.   
   5.
   Transfer the meat to the bowl of a food processor, add half the crushed ice and process until all of the ice has dissolved, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the remaining crushed ice and continue processing until the mixture is completely smooth, 4 to 5 minutes more. Note: The temperature of your meat during this mixing step is critically important. Its temperature should never rise about 40°F/4°C; work efficiently during this step of the process.
   
6.   
   6.
   Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
   
7.   
   7.
   Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
8.   
   8.
   Stuff the sausage into the sheep casings
   (see page 31)
   and twist into links
   (see page 36)
   .
   
9.   
   9.
   Smoke the links
   (see page 43)
   at 170°F/77°C, until the internal temperature of the sausage reaches 145°F/63°C, 45 to 60 minutes. Remove the sausages from the smoker, let cool slightly, then transfer to the refrigerator and let stand, uncovered, overnight. The hot dogs are then fully cooked, and can be finished on a grill
   (see page 38)
   or steamed
   (see page 42)
   .
   

YIELD: ONE 3-LB/1.4-KG LOG

Pork back fat, cut into
¹
/
₂
-in/12-mm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 139
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 10.24
  

Boneless lean beef, such as round, sirloin, neck, plate, or shank (about 95% lean, 5% fat) cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1.40 lb
  
• GRAMS: 614
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 45.09
  

Boneless pork shoulder (or a combination of cuts, about 75% lean, 25% fat)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 0.60 lb
  
• GRAMS: 266
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 19.52
  

Diced bacon

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 111
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 8.20
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp
  
• GRAMS: 24
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 1.79
  

Mustard powder

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 6
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.46
  

Coarsely ground black pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 4
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.30
  

Fresh thyme leaves

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 2
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.15
  

Coarsely ground coriander

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.09
  

Cure No. 1
(see page 15)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 3
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.22
  

Pale ale

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ²
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 190
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 13.94
  

Beef bung, rinsed

This is my version of the bologna I grew up eating. It's a three-day process. When it's done, slice it thinly, pile it on a crusty roll, and top with mustard and kraut for a killer sandwich.

1.   
   1.
   Place the pork back fat in a medium saucepan and cover with water by
   ¹
   /
   ₂
   in/12 mm. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil for 10 minutes. Drain and transfer the fat cubes to a plate and refrigerate until cold.
   
2.   
   2.
   Place the beef, pork shoulder, and bacon on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
   (see page 23)
   .
   
3.   
   3.
   In a small bowl, add the salt, mustard powder, black pepper, thyme, coriander, and Cure No. 1 and stir to combine.
   
4.   
   4.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the beef, pork shoulder, and bacon through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   .
   
5.   
   5.
   Add the spice mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
   (see page 25)
   .
   
6.   
   6.
   Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
7.   
   7.
   Pour the ale into a shallow baking dish, transfer to the freezer, and chill until the ale is semi-frozen, about 40 minutes.
   
8.   
   8.
   Transfer the meat to the bowl of a food processor, add half of the semi-frozen ale and process for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the remaining ale and continue processing until smooth, 4 to 5 minutes longer. Note: The temperature of your meat during this mixing step is critically important. Its temperature should never rise about 40°F/4°C; work efficiently during this step of the process. Depending on the size of your food processor, you may need to do this step in batches. Fold in the chilled backfat.
   
9.   
   9.
   Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
   
10. 10.
    Stuff the meat into the beef bung
    (see page 31)
    ; the bierwurst should be about 5 in/12 cm in diameter and 10 in/25 cm long. Let hang, refrigerated, overnight.
    
11. 11.
    Smoke the bung
    (see page 43)
    at 170°F/77°C, until the internal temperature reaches 145°F/63°C, 45 to 60 minutes. Remove from the smoker, let cool slightly, then transfer to a refrigerator and let stand, uncovered, overnight. When you're ready to eat the sausages, slice thinly with a sharp knife.
    

YIELD: ONE 3-LB/1.4-KG LOG

Boneless pork shoulder (or a combination of cuts, about 75% lean, 25% fat), cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1.90 lb
  
• GRAMS: 844
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 54.00
  

Diced bacon

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 95
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 6.10
  

Nonfat dry milk powder

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₃
  cup
  
• GRAMS: 68
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 4.35
  

Fine sea salt

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1 tbsp +
  ³
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 31
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 2.00
  

Mustard powder

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 2
  ¹
  /
  ₄
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 5
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.34
  

Coarsely ground black pepper

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 3
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.17
  

Ground coriander

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 1
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.09
  

Cure No. 1
(see page 15)

• U.S. MEASUREMENT:
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  tsp
  
• GRAMS: 3
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 0.22
  

Pig's blood

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 1
  ¹
  /
  ₂
  cups
  
• GRAMS: 313
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 20.00
  

Coppa di Testa, diced

• U.S. MEASUREMENT: 8 oz
  
• GRAMS: 173
  
• % OF TOTAL (100%): 12.73
  

Beef middles or bung, rinsed

This is an unsmoked variation on bologna that uses pork blood in place of water. You can order pig's blood from any good butcher shop. Often it will come frozen, which is fine; in that case, rather than freezing it as indicated in step 5 of the recipe, you'll want to let it thaw until it has a slush-like consistency.

1.   
   1.
   Place the pork shoulder and bacon on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid
   (see page 23)
   .
   
2.   
   2.
   In a small bowl, add the milk powder, salt, mustard powder, black pepper, coriander, and Cure No. 1 and stir to combine.
   
3.   
   3.
   Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the meat through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice
   (see page 24)
   .
   
4.   
   4.
   Add the spice mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl
   (see page 25)
   .
   
5.   
   5.
   Press a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap directly on the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Alternatively, you can vacuum-seal the farce.
   
6.   
   6.
   Pour the blood into a shallow baking dish, transfer to the freezer, and chill until semi-frozen, about 40 minutes.
   
7.   
   7.
   Transfer the meat to the bowl of a food processor, add half of the semi-frozen blood and process until the liquid is incorporated into the meat and the mixture begins to look sticky, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the remaining blood and continue processing until the mixture is smooth, 4 to 5 minutes longer. Note: The temperature of your meat during this mixing step is critically important. Its temperature should never rise above 40°F/4°C; work efficiently during this step of the process. Depending on the size of your food processor, you may need to do this step in batches. Do not overload your machine or it will not work efficiently. Once fully puréed, gently fold in the coppa di testa.
   
8.   
   8.
   Spoon 2 tbsp of the meat mixture into a nonstick frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook the test patty over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste the sausage for seasoning and adjust as necessary.
   
9.   
   9.
   Stuff the sausage into the beef middles or bung
   (see page 36)
   ; the bologna should be about 5 in/12 cm in diameter and 10 in/25 cm long. Poach the bologna
   (see page 41)
   until the internal temperature reaches 155°F/68°C. Let it hang at room temperature until cool, then wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. It will keep, tightly wrapped or vacuum-sealed and refrigerated, for 1 week.