Shopgirls (42 page)

Hicks, Margaretta 149

Hitler, Adolf 194, 197

Hoffman, Philip 39–40, 108, 109, 116, 117, 145, 152, 157–8, 159–60

Holborn Silk Market, London 39–40

Holyoake, George 104;
Self-Help by the People
105

Home & Colonial 169

Home Office 144

Honey
215

House of Commons 123, 182

House of Eliott
,
The
, xiii, xiv

House of Fraser 22, 228

House of Lords 112

House of Worth 78

housewives 155, 168–9, 184–5, 186, 187, 189

Hove, Sussex 333

Howell, James 25, 41

Howells department store, Cardiff 25, 40–41

Hulanicki, Barbara 206–8, 217, 225, 227

Hunter, Beatrice 162, 163–4

Huntley & Palmers 134

Hynde, Chrissie 227

Ideal Labour Saving Home, The
169

Industrial Relations Bill, 1971 224

Industrial Relations Journal
217

Industrial Revolution 10, 14, 133

Isherwood, Christopher:
Goodbye to Berlin
174

Isle of Wight 182, 187–8

J. Lyons & Co 176, 181

J. Sainsbury 143, 149–50, 176, 185–6, 187, 193, 197

Jack the Ripper 59

Jagger, Mick 210

Jenner, Charles 26, 65, 66, 70, 137

Jenners of Edinburgh xiii, 22, 26, 65–6, 70, 137, 209

Jersey 183, 194, 199

Jeune, Lady 8–9, 28–9

Jobs, Steve 237–8

John Lewis 140, 144–7, 156, 158–60, 162, 180, 186, 190, 199, 230

Jones, Stevenson 78

Jong, Erica 222

Jordan (punk icon) 227

Jupp, Ethel May 176–7, 189

Kaufhaus N. Israel department store, Berlin 174

Kendal, Milne and Faulkner, Messrs, Manchester 16, 17, 36, 196, 205, 209, 211

Kenney, Annie 120

Kenney, Nell 120

Kittner, Annie 171

Kramer, Billy J. 211

Kramer, Elaine 211

labour movement 98–9, 217–18

Labour Party 113, 117, 167–8

Ladies National Association 57

Ladies of Langham Place 13, 28, 29

Lancaster, Osbert 67

Land Army 186, 193, 198

Langtry, Lily 79

late-night shopping 41

LCC Theatres and Music Hall Committee 88

Lemere, Henry Bedford 65–6

Lend-Lease agreement 193

Lennon, John 210

Let It Rock, Kings Road 227

Lewis Separates 213–14

Lewis, Bernard 214

Lewis, Edmund 35, 39, 110

Lewis, Henry 35, 39, 110

Lewis, John 144–5, 146, 147, 158–9, 161, 162

Lewis, Oswald 146, 159–60

Lewis, Russell 35, 39, 110

Lewis, Samuel 39–40

Lewis, Spedan (John) 145, 146–7, 148, 149, 160–2, 163–4, 190

Lewis, Tom 35, 39, 110

Lewis’s, Liverpool 186, 191

Liberal Party 111–12, 114, 123

Liberty, Arthur Lasenby 70

Liberty’s, London 67, 70

Lilley and Skinner, London 119, 122

Lilley, Kate 122

Lilley, Louise 122

Link, The
98

Linton, Eliza 72–4, 75; ‘The Girl of the Period’ 72–3; ‘The Philosophy of Shopping’ 73–4

Littlewoods 169, 170, 173

Liverpool 4, 10, 69, 78, 79, 110, 127, 127, 128, 142, 143, 167, 168–9, 186, 191

Liverpool Mercury
78

living-in 24–5, 27, 38–41, 83, 99–100, 108–9, 116, 117, 130–31, 138, 147, 148, 152, 160, 208

living wage 51, 113, 114, 115, 116, 156

Lloyd George, David 81, 112, 114, 122, 127, 128, 149, 160, 232

Lloyd, Mary 88

Loftie, Jeannie 88

London; Bayswater 17–18, 21–2, 71, 177; Carnaby Street 206, 207, 211; Hyde Park 2, 17, 24, 43, 69, 146; Kensington 160, 165, 177, 189, 207, 211, 227, 228; Kensington High Street 160, 165, 177, 189, 227; King’s Road 147, 203–4, 205, 206, 207, 211, 224, 227; Knightsbridge 22–3, 212; Lewisham High Street 197–8; Oxford Street 8, 35, 39, 108, 111, 119, 133, 137, 144, 159, 162, 190, 199, 228; Regent Street 23, 53, 57–9, 213; Piccadilly 53, 78, 80, 223 (
see also
East End
and
West End)

London Can Take It!
189

London Co-operatives, Romford 195

London Magazine
19, 139–40

Lord & Taylor 129

Lord, Sarah 3

Lorimer, Florence 163

Lubbock, Sir John 43–4, 46, 47, 49

Lucile (Lucy Christiana Sutherland) 79–81

Luftwaffe 179, 183, 188

Lulu 210

Lydon, John 227

Lyons Corner Houses 176

Macarthur, Mary 102, 103

MacDonald, Ramsay 167

Macmillan, Harold 215–16

Macy’s, New York 129, 173

Madam Burton’s, Newport, Isle of Wight 182, 188

magazines 19, 42, 68, 69, 76, 79, 80, 82–3, 85, 86–7, 89, 95, 119, 123, 132, 139, 176, 177, 193, 204, 205, 208, 215, 223

Malvery, Olive Christian 140–41

management 127–52, 173–7

Manchester 10, 11, 16, 17, 26, 36, 69, 107, 120, 128, 142, 166, 175, 205, 211, 213, 229

mannequins 78, 79, 80, 136, 137

market towns 4, 5, 17, 22, 68, 135, 231

Markham, London 210

Marks & Spencer 166, 167, 168, 169, 172, 173–6, 180, 191, 197–8, 230, 231

Marks, Michael 166

Marks, Simon 166, 167, 168, 173–4, 175

Marmaysee, Monsieur Germain 53–4

marriage 40, 64–5, 83–4, 214, 222

married women 13, 51, 155, 196, 198, 216

Marquis, Lord Woolton, Frederick 186

Marshall and Snelgrove, Oxford Street 213, 228

Marshall, Jeanette 66–7, 68

Martindale, Hilda 94

Martindale, Louisa 94

Martineau, Harriet 11, 12, 15, 27, 55, 57, 72; ‘Female Industry’ article 11, 12

Mary, Queen 159

Matlock, Glen 227

Mawer & Collingham, Lincoln 142, 144, 172

Mayhew, Henry 41, 68;
London Labour and the London Poor
68

McIlroy’s of Hanley 116–17

McLaren, Malcolm 227

McNeil, Susannah 7

McVitie’s 134

medieval shops 5, 26

Melly, Diana (Dawson) 204–5

Mendleson, Anna 227

Methodists 25, 35, 41

middle class 14, 15, 17, 26, 28, 43, 66, 69, 89, 90, 95, 98, 118, 119, 131, 162, 169, 170, 192, 203, 215

migration 228

milliners 3, 4, 8, 18, 24, 29, 45, 51, 52, 54–5, 56, 59, 69, 84, 203

Mills & Boon 84–5

minimum wage 114–18, 156, 158–9

Ministry of Food 185, 186, 196, 198

Ministry of Information 180, 184

Ministry of Labour 155, 196

Miss Selfridge 213

Miss World 222, 223, 224

Morgan, Elizabeth 128

Morning Post, The
56, 67, 82

Moss, Martin 212

motherhood 15, 49, 220

Mr Selfridge
xiii

Mrs Jupp’s Pantry, Bayswater 176–7, 189

‘multiple’ stores 15, 29, 133–4
see also
chain stores

Munby, Arthur 2–3, 24, 27, 28, 69

music hall 52, 76, 87–8, 159

musical comedy 64–5, 87–9, 163

National Amalgamated Union of Shop Assistants, Warehouseman & Clerks (NAUSAW&C) 99, 102, 112, 116, 120, 145, 152

National Anti-Sweating League 113

National Early Closing League 43

National Health Society 45

National Institute of Industrial Psychology (NIIP) 173–4

National Insurance Act, 1911 112

National Union of Shop Assistants 93, 99

National Union of Women’s Suffrage Societies (NUWSS) 118, 120

National Women’s Liberation Conference, Ruskin College, Oxford, 1970 219–22

Nazi Party 174, 179–80, 182, 183, 184, 194

New Look 203

New York 129, 130, 167, 173

Newby, Eric 192

Newcastle 25, 26, 27, 36, 110, 142, 166, 172, 220

Newton, Robert 58

Non-Conformism 14, 26, 81

Norwich 6

Nottingham 211

novels 16, 72, 84–5, 89, 171, 174

Osborne, Doris 188

Owanabae, Dorothy 229, 238

Owen Snr, Owen 127–8

Owen, Ellen 129

Owen, Owen 110, 127–30, 131, 132, 133, 142

Oxford 35, 39, 110, 119, 133, 137, 162, 219, 220, 230

Pall Mall Gazette, The
38

Pankhurst, Christabel 120

Pankhurst, Emmeline 118, 120, 123

Pankhurst, Sylvia 120, 121

Paquins 140

Paradise, The
xiii

Paris 52, 69–70, 72, 77, 78, 79, 80, 111, 129, 198, 223

part-time work 196, 216–18, 235

‘Passing of the Grocer’ debate 133

paternalism 24–5, 26–7, 97, 130

Pennyhapenny Boutique, The 210

People’s Budget, 1909 112

People’s Store 107

Peter Jones, London 147, 148, 149, 160–4, 190

Peter Robinson’s, London 119, 149

Pettigrew, Agnes 102, 103

Piggly Wiggly 195

Pink Floyd 211, 227

Pioneer, The
117

Pollock, Alice 205

Pollyanna, Barnsley 211–12

Pontings, Kensington 160, 207, 228

pop music 205, 210, 211

Portas, Mary 233, 235

Prejudiced Guide
137–8, 156

The Pretty Things 210

productivity 130, 173, 174

profit sharing 103, 105, 147, 148, 149, 160–1

profiteering 193

prostitution 12, 52–60, 65, 67, 68, 71, 97, 162

public parks 68–9

Punch
68

Pygmalia, Manchester 211

Quant, Mary 203–4, 205, 206, 207, 208, 210, 212, 213, 214, 217

Queen
204

Quorum, Kings Road 205, 210–11

R.S. McColl’s 173

RAF 188, 189, 198

rationing 181, 185–7, 191–2, 203, 214

Rave
205, 210

Rawlinson, General Sir Peter 224

Rayner, Horace 90–91

ready-to-wear 169

Red Cross 194

Reform Acts: 1832 11, 98; 1884 121; 1928 172

Reform Movement 11

Regal Corset 122

Regency arcades 52

Reginbal, Margaret 53–4

Representation of the People Act, 1918 124

Restoration of Pre-War Practices Act, 1919 155–6

Reynold’s Newspaper
55

Reynolds, Quentin 189

Rhodes, Zandra 209

Richardson, Mary 124

Rochdale Equitable Pioneers Society 103

‘Rochdale Principles’ 103–4

Rockhey 144

Roger Edwards and Co. 117

Rowbotham, Sheila 220

Royal College of Art, London 212

Ruskin College, Oxford 220, 221, 222

Ruskin, John 219

Salaman, Ralph 180

Salford Art School 205

Saturday girls 216

Saunders-Roe 188

Savile Row, London 206

Seats for Shop Workers Act, 1899 46

Second World War, 1939–45 181–200

self-help 104–5, 112

self-service 195

Selfridge, Harry Gordon xiii, 111, 119, 123, 133, 136, 137, 138–40, 141, 171

Selfridges, Oxford Street 111, 119, 122–3, 124, 133, 136, 137, 138–40, 141, 144, 148, 171, 190, 213, 235

servants 2, 12, 14–15, 24, 28, 34, 36, 39, 44, 48, 53–4, 76, 81, 82, 90, 96, 119, 142, 165, 207–8, 212, 217

Sex, Kings Road 227

Sex Pistols 227

sex work 52–6

sexualisation and sexuality 12, 40, 41, 52–60, 65, 67, 68, 71, 72, 73, 79, 81, 83, 85, 86–7, 89, 94, 97, 162, 176, 204, 208, 214, 222

Shaw, George Bernard 171

Shaw, Sandie 210

Shipley, Christine 211

‘shop-and-house’ layout 5

Shop Assistant, The
95

shop assistants: clothing 27, 50, 149; duties 36, 51, 132, 136–7, 139, 163, 190, 231–2; entertainments 27, 51–2, 82–8, 110–11; health 23, 29, 44–50; hours 2, 3, 18, 25, 27, 28, 34, 41–50, 55, 83, 88, 96, 97, 99–100, 107, 109, 110, 139, 147, 152, 158, 176, 217; part-time 196, 216, 217, 218; rules and penalties 24, 35, 37–9, 41, 45, 46, 50, 58, 93, 97, 99, 108, 139, 196; social clubs 27, 36, 110, 164–5; training 29, 111, 139, 150, 152, 175–6, 190, 211; wages 23–4, 38, 39, 47, 49, 50–1, 53, 55, 56, 57, 65, 81, 98, 101–2, 104, 108, 112–18, 139, 145–6, 147, 148, 152, 156, 157, 158– 61, 168–9, 172–3, 176, 184, 204, 216, 217, 218–19, 222, 225, 232; working conditions 2, 3, 18, 20, 34, 38–41, 42, 44–8, 50, 83, 85, 93–100, 106–10, 114, 115, 147, 152, 157–8, 162, 167, 168, 175
see also
‘living-in’

The Shop Girl
(musical comedy) 89

Shop Girls
(Applin) 84–5

Shop Hours Act, 1886 49, 50

Shop Hours League 46

Shop Hours Regulation Bill, 1873 43–4, 46

shop-lifting 74–5, 175

‘shop locally’ 230

shopocracy 23, 24, 81, 97, 117, 170

shop owners, female 177

shopping: co-operative movement and
see
co-operative movement; democratisation of 169–70; elevation of female customer 65–7; formality of experience 170, 172, 204; late-night 42; link between sex and 56; nineteenth-century experience of 4–5; overseas influence on British 15, 69–71, 72, 80, 127, 129–33, 134, 138–9, 141, 144, 167, 173, 176, 189, 195, 204, 206, 209, 229; philosophy of 73–4; shopping centres and 229–32; suffragism and
see
suffragism; unpleasant experience of 8–9; war and
see
First World War
and
Second World War, 229
see also individual store names

shopping malls 229

Shops Bill, 1904 109

shopwalkers and floorwalkers 35, 38, 83, 100, 132, 136, 137–8, 159, 174

Sketch
79

Skippon, John 7

Smiles, Samuel 104–5

Smith, Madeline 209

Smith, Paul 211

Smith, Samuel 5

Snowden, Philip 113

Social Notes
51–2

Social Twitters
51

Society for Promoting the Employment of Women 12–14, 43–4, 48

Solomon, Flora 165–6, 167–8, 172, 173, 174–5, 176

Spanish Civil War, 1936–9 179–80

Sparks
176

Spectator, The
44

Spencer, Tom 166

spending, post-war 215

Spurling, Hall 198

St Helens Traders’ Defence Association 105

St Helier, Jersey 183–4, 194–5, 199–200

Steer, George 179–80

Stephen, John 206

Stirling, Bobbie 159