Spackled and Spooked (41 page)

1. Plan the sink placement.
   Decide where you want the sink to be placed on the dresser top. Remove the drawers and any drawer supports that would interfere with the plumbing. Most sinks come with a positioning template; if yours does not, trace the sink outline onto paper to create one. Cut out the template and tape it in the desired place on the dresser top; trace around it. If the faucet sits on the countertop, mark its placement, too.
   
2. Cut the openings.
   Determine the location of the water supply and drain lines. Mark them on the back of the dresser (or do what Derek did, and remove the back panel for easy access). Using a jigsaw, cut the sink, faucet, and water supply or drain line openings.
   
3. Rework the drawers.
   Use a jigsaw to cut off the backs of the drawers that surround the sink and/or plumbing so that the drawer fronts fit perfectly in place.
   
4. Connect the water.
   Move the dresser into place and hook up the hot and cold water lines and the drainpipe. For added sturdiness, secure the back of the dresser to the wall with screws drilled into the wall studs. Reinsert the drawers.
   
5. Waterproof the top.
   To make a wood top more resistant to water, apply two or three coats of polyurethane, allowing the sealant to dry thoroughly between each coat. To keep the finish pristine, wipe off water after each use. Or—alternatively—tile the top of the dresser.
   

Installing a Vessel Sink—or as the Case May Be, a Fiesta Dinnerware Bowl

A few words before we get started:

A vessel can be installed sitting on the countertop (above counter mounting), or it can be sunk into the counter a third or even half of its height. Some store-bought vessels are actually a sort of hybrid of a drop-in style sink and a vessel.

For an above-counter installation, you will need a hole that is large enough for the drain assembly. (That’s the plumbing hardware that allows the sink to drain the water.) If the bottom of your vessel is flat—as is the case with a Fiesta dinnerware bowl—then the installation is straightforward. A bead of silicone under the sink and around the edge to prevent water from working its way underneath the vessel is a good idea. If you use a vessel with a rounded shape—as is the case with most store-bought glass vessel sinks—you have two options: You can either use something called a vessel mounting ring, or make a mounting hole directly in the countertop.

Mounting rings for vessel sinks can be found at most home centers or online. They usually come in several finishes that you can match to your faucet and drain. A vessel mounting ring elevates the sink from the countertop and helps with the stability and seal of the sink.

If you’d prefer to mount the vessel directly into the countertop, you will need a hole at least three inches in diameter, with a beveled edge. For stability, you may want the hole to be more in the range of five to six inches. The bigger the hole, the more stability you get; however, keep in mind that the bigger the hole, the more of the vessel will be invisible below the counter, too.

Whichever mounting method you use, remember that it’s usually easier to install the drain in the vessel before fastening the vessel to the counter. Drains for vessel sinks come in two basic types: standard and vessel style.

If your vessel has an overflow, you will need a standard drain, like you would use on a standard sink. Many vessel sinks don’t have overflows, though. A salad bowl obviously won’t, and it will need a special vessel-style drain. Vessel drains don’t have a “pop up” assembly like a standard drain. They’re sometimes called grid drains because of the grid design that allows water to flow through but which stops larger items from going down the drain.

If you are converting a salad bowl to a sink, you’re going to want to drill a hole in the bottom of the bowl to accommodate the drain before you get started. It’s best to choose a bowl with a level or preferably even sloping bottom to allow for optimum drainage. If the water doesn’t drain properly, and is trapped inside, it can cause discoloration, staining, and/or rust over time. Take care when you install the drain not to install it higher than the bottom of the bowl, too, to avoid the same problem.

Now on to the business of installation . . .

NOTE: For the purposes of this outline, we’re going to assume you’ve got a counter installed. Maybe you’re planning to put the vessel on top of the dresser you’ve already converted to a vanity? If not, you’ll have to figure out how to add a new countertop to your existing sink base. It’s not part of these instructions. This is for how to install the vessel sink, period.

DIRECTIONS:

1. Set your new vessel sink on top of the counter. Mark the position of the sink and also where the drain hole is going to be. Also mark where your faucet will be. Make sure to give enough clearance between your faucet and vessel sink. If you’re using something unusual—like a salad bowl—instead of a proper vessel sink, also make sure that the height of the bowl is a good match for the height of the faucet. If the bowl is too tall, you’ll have to sink it into the surface enough to make the faucet work.
   
2. Drill a hole for your drain. If you’re using a below-counter mount, you’ll also have to drill the depression for the sink to rest in. Remember to bevel the edges.
   
3. Drill holes for the water feed tubes that will come down from the faucet to connect underneath the sink to the water lines.
   
4. Install the faucet prior to putting the vessel sink into its final position. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions that came with your vessel faucets.
   
5. Make sure to connect cold and hot water tubing to the correct source on the water line. Use a ring of plumber’s putty around the hoses as you screw them together. Make sure that all the connections are tight by turning the water on and checking for leaks.
   
6. Place a bead of silicone caulk at the base of the sink where it will touch the countertop, or follow directions for the mounting ring, if you’re using one.
   
7. Put the sink gently in place and wipe off excess caulk.
   
8. You should have already attached the drain assembly, but if you haven’t, do it now, following the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific drain.
   
9. Screw on or tighten the nut firmly to hold the sink in place to the counter.
   
10. Connect the drain to the p-trap underneath, then connect the p-trap to the drainpipe on the wall. You may need an extension because the location and height of the drain has changed.
    
11. When everything is in place, check for leaks by turning on the faucet. Check around the drain, the drain itself, and underneath the sink. If there are leaks, take appropriate measure to get rid of them.
    

How to Make a Peek-a-boo Shower Curtain

MATERIALS

• Pieces of cotton fabric
  
• Fabric shower curtain liner
  
• Paper
  
• Pencil
  
• Scissors
  
• Iron
  
• Fusible web (sold in fabric stores)
  
• Clear vinyl
  
• Waxed paper
  
• Craft adhesive
  
• Clear vinyl shower curtain (to hang behind peek-a-boo curtain)
  

DIRECTIONS

1. Wash and dry the cotton fabrics and the cloth liner so they won’t shrink later and pucker or pull away.
   
2. Draw your design on paper, actual size, and cut out the pieces to use as templates. Brown craft paper is great for this.
   
3. For each paper template, cut out a slightly larger piece of fabric. Iron a piece of fusible web to the back of it.
   
4. Set each template on top of the fused layers and trace around it. Cut out the tracing, but leave the peek-a-boo holes intact. Then peel off the fusible web’s paper backing.
   
5. Position the fabric cutouts web side down where you want them to sit on the fabric shower curtain, and then iron them in place. When the ironed area is cool, flip the curtain over and iron the back. If your design has more than one layer, add the rest of the fabric pieces using the same method.
   
6. Cut out the peek-a-boo holes by cutting through all the layers of fabric, including the shower curtain itself. Trace the peek-a-boo holes onto the clear vinyl; make sure to leave a half-inch margin all around (for the glue). Then cut out the “windowpanes.”
   
7. Place the shower curtain face down and tuck a piece of waxed paper under each opening. Apply a thin line of craft adhesive along the edge of the pane, in the half-inch margin. Make sure to do this in a well-ventilated area, as the fumes can be bad.
   
8. Position the pane over the opening, glue side down.
   
9. Cover the window with another piece of waxed paper before pressing down on the glued edges. If you get excess glue on the vinyl, peel it off after it dries. Allow the glue to dry completely before hanging the curtain in front of the clear vinyl liner.
   
10. Enjoy spying on your beloved as he/she is in the shower! Or enjoy being able to look out into the bathroom while you’re in the shower yourself, just in case someone’s sneaking up on you!