The Big Book of Curry Recipes (63 page)

Chicken Dupiaza

Chicken Dupiaza is a traditional Indian recipe, based on the 1890s book,
THE INDIAN COOKERY BOOK
for a classic curry of chicken pieces cooked in a spiced onion base.

This is a traditional Indian recipe redacted from the 1890s volume
THE INDIAN COOKERY BOOK
, published by THACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA.

Original Recipe

23.—Chicken Doopiaja

The literal translation of doopiaja is “two onions,” and the term probably is correctly applicable, as it will be noticed, in the recipes for preparing the doopiaja curries, that besides the full quantity of ground onions, it is necessary to put in about an equal quantity of fried onions, thereby doubling the quantity of onions.

Doopiajas are more piquant curries; they are cooked with more ghee and less water. The following condiments, &c., are considered ample for a really good doopiaja of chicken or of any meat:—

One chittack and a half or three ounces of ghee, one breakfast-cupful of water, one teaspoonful and a half of salt, four teaspoonfuls of ground onions, one teaspoonful each of ground turmeric and chilies, half a teaspoonful of ground ginger, a quarter of a teaspoonful of ground garlic, twelve onions cut lengthways, each into six or eight slices, and half a teaspoonful of ground coriander-seed if it be liked.

Take a full-sized curry chicken and divide it into sixteen or eighteen pieces. Melt the ghee in a warm or heated pot, fry brown the sliced onions and set aside; then fry the ground condiments, stirring the whole; when brown, add the cut-up chicken with the salt, and fry to a rich brown. Chop the fried onions and put into the pot with one cup of water, and allow to simmer over a slow fire for about one hour, when the chicken will be perfectly tender, and the liquid reduced to a thick consistency, and to half its original quantity.

Modern Redaction

Ingredients:

1 oven-ready chicken, divided into 16 serving pieces

90g (3 oz) ghee

250ml (1 cup) water

1 1/2 tsp salt

4 tsp onions, ground or pounded to a paste

1 tsp ground turmeric

1 tsp ground chillies

1/2 tsp ground ginger

1/4 tsp garlic, ground or pounded to a paste

6 onions, cut lengthways into 6 or 8 slices each

1/2 tsp ground coriander seeds

Method:

Heat the ghee in a large pan, add the sliced onions and fry for about 6 minutes, or until golden brown all over. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add the ground ingredients to the pan and fry for a few minutes, or until brown and aromatic. Add the chicken pieces along with the salt and continue frying until nicely browned all over.

Chop up the fried onions and add to the pan with the 250ml (1 cup) water. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook gently over low heat for about 60 minutes, or until the chicken pieces are cooked through and very tender (the gravy should be very thick).

Serve hot, accompanied with rice.

Chicken Curry

Chicken Curry is a traditional Indian recipe, based on the 1890s book,
THE INDIAN COOKERY BOOK
for a classic curry of chicken pieces cooked in a spiced gravy base.

This is a traditional Indian recipe redacted from the 1890s volume
THE INDIAN COOKERY BOOK
, published by THACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA.

Original Recipe

16.–Chicken Curry

Take one chittack or two ounces of ghee, two breakfast-cupfuls of water, one teaspoonful and a half of salt, four teaspoonfuls of ground onions, one teaspoonful each of ground turmeric and chilies, half a teaspoonful of ground ginger, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of ground garlic.

To suit the taste of those who like it, half a teaspoonful of ground coriander-seed may be added, which should be roasted before being ground. Observe the following directions for cooking:—

Take the usual full-sized curry chicken, the price of which has latterly ranged from three to four annas, and divide it into sixteen or eighteen pieces. Warm the pot, melt in it the ghee, and immediately it begins to bubble throw in all the ground condiments, stirring until quite brown; then put in the cut-up chicken and the salt, and stir up to a good light-brown colour; then add the water, and allow the whole to simmer over a slow fire until the chicken is quite tender, and the liquid reduced to about half its original quantity. The operation of cooking or simmering will take from a half to three-quarters of an hour.

Modern Redaction

This is a classic gravy-curry (ie a wet curry that has a thick gravy base). It can be adapted for just about any kind of meat by simple substitution.

Ingredients:

1 large, oven-ready chicken, cut into 16 serving pieces

60g (2 oz) ghee

500ml (2 cups) water

1 tsp salt

4 tsp onions, ground or pounded to a paste

1 tsp ground turmeric

1 tsp ground chillies

1/2 tsp ground ginger

1/4 tsp garlic, ground or pounded to a paste

Method:

Heat the ghee in a pan, and as soon as it begins to foam add the ground spices. Stir-fry these for a few minutes, until browned then add the chicken pieces and the salt. Fry the chicken until golden brown all over then add the water.

Bring the mixture to a simmer, cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook gently for about 45 minutes, or until the chicken is tender and the liquid has reduced to half its original volume.

Serve hot.

Bhuna Kedgeree

Bhuna Kedgeree is a traditional Indian recipe, based on the 1890s book,
THE INDIAN COOKERY BOOK
for a classic dish of rice and lentils cooked in a spiced onion base.

This is a traditional Indian recipe redacted from the 1890s volume
THE INDIAN COOKERY BOOK
, published by THACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA.

Original Recipe

5.–Bhoonee Kitcheeree

Take rather more than three-quarters of a coonkee of bassmuttee or cheeneesuckur and half a coonkee of dal; or, if preferred, take the rice and dal in equal parts.

Take twelve large curry onions and cut them up lengthways into fine slices. Warm up two chittacks or four ounces of ghee (but before doing so be careful to warm the pot), and, while bubbling, throw in the sliced onions, removing them immediately they become of a bright brown colour. Set the fried onions aside, and throw in the dal and rice (having previously allowed all the water in which they were washed to drain through a colander). Fry until the dal and rice have absorbed all the ghee; then add a few slices of green ginger, some peppercorns, salt to taste (say one dessertspoonful), a few cloves, three or four cardamoms, half a dozen bay-leaves, and as many small sticks of cinnamon. Mix well together; add as much water only as will entirely cover over the whole of the rice and dal, put a good-fitting cover on, and set over a slow fire, reducing the same from time to time as the water is being absorbed. Care must be taken not to allow the kitcheeree to burn, which may be prevented by occasionally shaking the pot, or stirring its contents with a wooden spoon.

Serve up quite hot, strewing over it the fried onions, which serve both as a relish and garnish of the dish.

Modern Redaction

The coonkee referred to in this recipe was a scoop for measuring rice. There were two types, large and small. Elsewhere in the book it’s noted that it’s the ‘small’ coonkee that is referred to here. A small coonkee of rice weighed 225g (1/2 lb)

Ingredients:

12 large onions, finely sliced lengthways

120g (1/4 lb) ghee

170g (5 1/2 oz) basmati rice, washed and drained

115g (1/4 lb) lentils (dhal), washed and drained

4 slices of fresh ginger

1/2 tsp black peppercorns

salt, to taste

4 cloves

4 cardamom pods, crushed

6 bayleaves

1 cinnamon stick, broken in half

Method:

Heat the ghee in a pan and when frothing, add the sliced onions. Fry, stirring occasionally, for about 8 minutes, or until the onions are nicely browned then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add the rice and dhal to the pan and stir to coat the grains in the ghee. Add the spices and bayleaves then pour over just enough water to cover the ingredients of the pan. Cover with a tight-fitting lid then place over low heat and cook, shaking the pan from time to time, to prevent burning, for about 30 minutes, or until the rice and lentils are tender and all the liquid has been absorbed.

Serve hot.

Dumpode Goose (Indian Way)

Dumpode Goose (Indian Way) is a traditional Anglo-Indian recipe, based on the 1890s book,
THE INDIAN COOKERY BOOK
for a classic dish of meat-stuffed boned goose cooked in a spiced goose stock base.

This is a traditional Indian recipe redacted from the 1890s volume
THE INDIAN COOKERY BOOK
, published by THACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA.

Original Recipe

147.—Dumpode Goose (Indian Way)

Take a good fat tender goose; feather, clean, and bone it carefully without destroying the skin; when every bone has been removed, pour into the goose a mixture composed of a dessertspoonful each of mustard, sweet oil, and mixed sauce.

Take all the bones and the giblet, the liver excepted, and make a good gravy seasoned with pepper, salt, soup herbs, and bay-leaves. Mince very fine three pounds of beef, a quarter of a pound of beef suet, a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, and the liver of the goose. Take of chopped garden herbs a tablespoonful, powdered black pepper a dessertspoonful, mixed hot spices finely powdered a dessertspoonful, finely-grated bread-crumbs two tablespoonfuls, salt a dessertspoonful, and essence of anchovies, if liked, one teaspoonful. Mix the above well together, and stuff the goose.

Melt two chittacks and a half or five ounces of ghee; put in the goose, and pour over it the soup made of the bones and giblet, and allow it to stew until quite tender; then glaze the goose, as also some boiled turnips, carrots, onions, and potatoes, and serve up hot, surrounded with the vegetables and some English pickles.

Modern Redaction

Ingredients:

1 oven-ready goose, boned

1 dessertspoon prepared mustard

1 dessertspoon groundnut oil

1 dessertspoon curry sauce

1kg (2 lb, 3 oz) beef, finely minced

115g (1/4 lb) shredded beef suet

liver from the goose, finely chopped

1 tbsp mixed herbs, finely chopped

1 dessertspoon freshly-ground black pepper

2 tsp chilli powder

1/2 tsp ground ginger

1/2 tsp ground cardamom seeds

2 tbsp finely-grated breadcrumbs

2 tsp salt (or to taste)

1 tsp anchovy essence

150g (1 1/2 cups) ghee

For the Stock:

giblets and neck from the goose

bones from the goose

salt and freshly-ground black pepper, to taste

1 bunch of mixed herbs

Method:

Take the bones, the neck and the giblets of the goose (except the liver) and place in a pan with the mixed herbs. Season to taste with salt and black pepper, pour over 2l (4 cups) water, bring to a simmer and cook for about 80 minutes, or until you have a good stock.

In the meantime, mix together the mustard, groundnut oil and curry sauce. Use this to brush the inside of the goose. In a bow, mix together the minced beef, shredded beef suet, chopped goose liver, chopped herbs and ground spices with the breadcrumbs. Season to taste then work in the anchovy essence. Use this mixture to stuff the goose.

Melt the ghee and pour into the goose then sew the openings closed. When the stock has cooked sufficiently, place the goose in a roasting tin, strain the goose bone stock, pour over the goose, cover the pan and transfer to an oven pre-heated to 180ºC (360ºF) and bake for about 90 minutes, or until the goose is thoroughly cooked through.

Serve hot accompanied by pickles and boiled vegetables.

Fish Mooloo

Fish Mooloo is a traditional Indian recipe, based on the 1890s book,
THE INDIAN COOKERY BOOK
for a classic dish of fried fish served with a spiced coconut milk gravy.

This is a traditional Indian recipe redacted from the 1890s volume
THE INDIAN COOKERY BOOK
, published by THACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA.

Original Recipe

114.—Fish Mooloo

Fry the fish and let it cool. Scrape a cocoanut, put a teacupful of hot water into it, rub it well, strain it and put aside; then put two spoonfuls more of water; strain this also; cut up three or four green chilies, and as many onions as you like, with half a garlic. Fry them with a little ghee, and whilst frying put the last straining of the cocoanut water in with the ingredients till it is dry; then add the first water of the nut, and pour the whole over the fish, with some vinegar, ginger, whole pepper, and salt to your taste.

Modern Redaction

Ingredients:

500g (1 lb) fish fillets

finely-grated flesh from 1 coconut

300ml (1 1/4 cup) hot water

2 tbsp hot water

4 green chillies, finely chopped

3 onions, finely sliced

1 garlic clove, finely sliced

60ml (1/4 cup) ghee

60ml (1/4 cup) vinegar

1/2 tsp ground ginger

1/2 tsp black peppercorns

salt, to taste

Method:

Heat oil in a pan, add the fish fillets and fry for about 6 minutes per side, or until cooked through and golden brown all over. Remove from the pan and set aside to keep warm.

In the meantime, place the grated coconut flesh in a bowl and pour over the cup of hot water. Rub and squeeze well with your hands then turn into a sieve and allow to drain. Squeeze the pulp with your hands to extract more of the milk. Set this milk aside.

Turn the pulp back into a bowl and add the 2 tbsp hot water. Mix well with your hands then turn the pulp back into the sieve and allow to drain into another bowl. Squeeze well with you hands to extract as much liquid (coconut cream) as possible. Set this aside as well.

Melt the ghee in the pan used to fry the fish. When the ghee is hot, add the chillies, onions and garlic and fry for about 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Now add the coconut cream and continue frying until almost dry. Pour in the first coconut milk and bring to a simmer. Take off the heat and add the ginger, black peppercorns and salt.