The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (12 page)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Fresh spring rolls should offer a textural symphony (soft wrapper, firm noodles, and crunchy vegetables) as well as appealing contrasts in flavor (mint, basil, cilantro, chiles, peanuts, and fish sauce). But too often, spring rolls are disappointing combinations of gummy noodles, bland vegetables, and mushy rice paper. We set out to develop a recipe for easy-to-make spring rolls packed with fresh, bright flavors and accompanied by a spicy, not-too-sweet peanut sauce for dipping. First, we soaked the spring roll wrappers in water for just 10 seconds, just long enough to make them pliable. Second, marinating the noodle-vegetable filling ingredients ensured superior flavor. Third, we eliminated the typical glut of sugar from the dipping sauce to put the peanut flavor at the forefront.

See “ASSEMBLING SPRING ROLLS” illustrations that follow recipe.

MAKES 8 SPRING ROLLS

If you can’t find Thai basil, do not substitute regular basil; its flavor is too gentle to stand up to the other, more assertive flavors in the filling. Mint makes a better substitute. Be sure to only make one spring roll at a time to keep the wrappers moist and pliable.

1.
Combine lime juice, fish sauce, and sugar in small bowl.

2.
Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Remove from heat, stir in rice vermicelli and salt and let sit, stirring occasionally, until noodles are tender but not mushy, about 10 minutes. Drain noodles, transfer to medium bowl, and toss with 2 tablespoons fish sauce mixture.

3.
Combine carrot, peanuts, and jalapeño in small bowl. Add 1 tablespoon fish sauce mixture; toss to combine. Toss cucumber in remaining 1 tablespoon fish sauce mixture.

4.
Place lettuce on platter. Spread clean, damp kitchen towel on counter. Fill 9-inch pie plate with 1 inch room-temperature water. Immerse each wrapper in water until just pliable, about 2 minutes; lay softened wrapper on towel. Scatter about 6 Thai basil leaves and 6 cilantro leaves over wrapper. Following illustrations, arrange 5 cucumber sticks horizontally on wrapper, top with 1 tablespoon carrot mixture, then arrange about 2¹⁄
₂
tablespoons noodles on top of carrot mixture. Wrap spring roll and set on 1 lettuce piece on platter. Cover with second damp kitchen towel. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling. Serve with peanut dipping sauce, wrapping lettuce around exterior of each roll. (Spring rolls are best eaten immediately, but they can be held for up to 4 hours in the refrigerator, covered with a clean, damp kitchen towel.)

MAKES ABOUT
³⁄
₄
CUP

Whisk peanut butter, hoisin sauce, water, tomato paste, and chili-garlic sauce, if using, in small bowl. Heat oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in small saucepan over medium heat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in peanut butter mixture; bring to simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until flavors blend, about 3 minutes. (Sauce should have ketchuplike consistency; if too thick, add water, 1 teaspoon at a time, until proper consistency is reached.) Transfer to bowl; cool to room temperature. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

Peel and remove tails from 8 ounces medium shrimp (41 to 50 per pound). Add shrimp to boiling water along with salt in step 2; cook until shrimp are opaque, about 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer shrimp to small bowl; use water to cook rice vermicelli as in step 2. When cool enough to handle, coarsely chop shrimp. When assembling spring rolls, place about 2 tablespoons chopped shrimp on top of noodles.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Scallion pancakes should boast multiple paper-thin layers laced with scallions and just a hint of sesame flavor. The exterior should be brown and crisp while the interior retains a soft chew. We found 2 tablespoons of scallions per pancake was just right for bold allium flavor. Cilantro lent a great herbal flavor. Brushing a thin layer of sesame oil onto the pancakes before sprinkling on the scallions and cilantro added the right sesame flavor. As for forming the pancakes, we got the best results from rolling the dough into a pancake, sprinkling the flavorings over, rolling it into a log, then coiling it around itself like a snake and rolling it out into a pancake again. This was easier to do than expected and the result was a pancake with tender layers and evenly incorporated scallions.

See “ROLLING AND FORMING SCALLION PANCAKES” illustrations that follow recipe.

SERVES 4 TO 6

We like these pancakes with the dipping sauce, but if preferred, you can omit the sauce and simply sprinkle with salt to taste before serving.

1.
Whisk flour and salt together in medium bowl. Add water and mix with dinner fork until combined. (If there are any floury bits left in bottom of bowl, add additional water, 1 teaspoon at a time, until dough comes together.) Turn dough out onto lightly floured counter and knead until smooth and satiny, about 5 minutes, adding extra flour to counter or your hands as needed to prevent sticking. Transfer dough to clean bowl, brush with thin layer of vegetable oil, and let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2.
Divide dough into 4 equal pieces and cover to keep dough from drying out. Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, roll into 7-inch circle about ¹⁄
₈
inch thick on lightly floured counter. Brush dough round lightly with sesame oil, then sprinkle with 2 tablespoons scallions and 1¹⁄
₂
teaspoons cilantro.

3.
Following illustrations, roll dough into cylinder, then coil cylinder into round, tucking tail end underneath. Roll into 5-inch pancake about ¹⁄
₄
inch thick. Set aside and cover while repeating with remaining dough pieces.

4.
Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Swirl oil to coat skillet, then add 1 dough round and cook until golden brown on both sides, 1¹⁄
₂
to 2 minutes per side. Transfer pancake to cutting board, tent with aluminum foil, and repeat 3 more times with remaining 3 tablespoons oil and remaining 3 dough rounds. Slice cooked pancakes into wedges and serve with Scallion Dipping Sauce.