The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (125 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Sweet red bell peppers take on a whole new layer of complex, smoky flavor when roasted. We wanted a method for roasting them that was more efficient than the common technique of roasting each pepper over a gas burner, letting it steam in a covered bowl, then laboriously removing the skin bit by bit. We discovered the broiler offered an easy, consistent, and more hands-off option than the burner (roasting in either a hot or low oven yielded soggy, overcooked peppers). To get around the issue of whole peppers hitting the broiler element, we cut the peppers into pieces that lay flat on a sheet pan. After 10 minutes, the peppers were done and we could easily peel off the blistered skin.
See “PREPARING BELL PEPPERS FOR ROASTING” illustrations that follow recipe.
MAKES 4 ROASTED PEPPERS
Cooking times vary, depending on the broiler, so watch the peppers carefully as they roast. You can substitute yellow or orange peppers here, but note that they roast faster than red ones, so decrease their cooking time by 2 to 4 minutes.
4 | red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, ribs removed, and cut to lie flat |
1.
Adjust oven rack 2¹⁄
2
to 3¹⁄
2
inches from broiler element and heat broiler. If necessary, set upside down rimmed baking sheet on oven rack to elevate pan (see illustration 4
HERE
). Line baking sheet with aluminum foil.
2.
Spread peppers out over prepared baking sheet and broil until skin is charred and puffed but flesh is still firm, 8 to 10 minutes, rotating baking sheet halfway through cooking.
3.
Transfer peppers to medium bowl, cover with foil, and let steam until skin peels off easily, 10 to 15 minutes. Peel and discard skin.
1.
Slice ¹⁄
4
inch from top and bottom of bell pepper, then gently remove stem from top slice. Pull core out of pepper.
2.
Make slit down 1 side of pepper, then lay it flat, skin side down, in 1 long strip. Slide sharp knife along inside of pepper and remove all ribs and seeds.
3.
Arrange strips of peppers and tops and bottoms skin side up on foil-lined baking sheet. Flatten the strips with palm of your hand.
4.
Adjust oven rack to top position. If rack is more than 3 inches from heating element, set rimmed baking sheet, bottom up, on rack under baking sheet.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
We wanted to determine a cooking method that would highlight the crisp texture and sweet flavor of sugar snap peas. We found that salt was a must. Blanching them in salted water produced peas with excellent flavor and texture. The only problem was that blanched peas tend to shrivel or pucker a bit as they cool. We solved this problem by plunging the cooked peas in ice water as soon as they were drained. This also helped to set their bright color and prevent further softening from residual heat.
SERVES 6
See following recipes for seasoning ideas.
1 | teaspoon salt |
1 | pound sugar snap peas, strings removed |
1.
Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside. Bring 6 cups water to boil in large saucepan. Add salt and peas and cook until peas are crisp-tender, 1¹⁄
2
to 2 minutes.
2.
Drain peas, transfer to bowl with ice water, drain again, and pat dry. (Peas can be set aside for up to 1 hour.)
SERVES 6
Keep a close eye on the garlic, as it can go from soft to brown quickly during cooking.
2 | tablespoons olive oil |
1¹⁄ | teaspoons grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
1 | recipe |
2 | tablespoons chopped fresh basil |
Salt and pepper |
Heat oil over medium heat in 10-inch skillet until shimmering. Add zest and garlic and cook until garlic is soft but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add peas, lemon juice, and basil and toss to combine. Cook until just heated through, 1 to 1¹⁄
2
minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
SERVES 6
Do not use sliced deli ham for this recipe.
1 | tablespoon unsalted butter |
3 | ounces country ham or smoked ham, cut into ¹⁄ |
1 | recipe |
2 | tablespoons chopped fresh mint |
Salt and pepper |
Melt butter over medium heat in 10-inch skillet. Add ham and cook 1 minute. Add peas and mint and toss to combine. Cook until just heated through, 1 to 1¹⁄
2
minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
SERVES 6
To mingle the flavors, you can let the peas and dressing stand for up to 10 minutes; longer than that and the peas start to lose their bright green color.
2 | tablespoons orange juice |
2 | tablespoons rice vinegar |
1 | teaspoon honey |
¹⁄ | teaspoon soy sauce |
1 | scallion, sliced thin |
¹⁄ | teaspoon grated fresh ginger |
2 | tablespoons peanut oil |
1 | teaspoon toasted sesame oil |
2 | teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | recipe |
Combine orange juice, vinegar, honey, soy sauce, scallion, and ginger in small bowl. Whisk in peanut oil and sesame oil. Stir in sesame seeds and season with salt and pepper to taste. (Dressing can be set aside for several hours.) Toss dressing with peas and serve.
SERVES 6
Because you must judge the color of the butter as it cooks, avoid dark-colored pans like nonstick.
2 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
1 | recipe |
2 | tablespoons chopped fresh sage |
2 | tablespoons toasted, skinned, and chopped hazelnuts |
Salt and pepper |
Melt butter over medium heat in 10-inch skillet and continue to cook until it browns to color of brown sugar and smells nutty, about 5 minutes. Add peas, sage, and nuts and toss to combine. Cook until just heated through, 1 to 1¹⁄
2
minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Frozen peas have already been blanched, so the keys to making a good and easy-to-prepare side dish from them are to avoid overcooking and to pair the peas with ingredients that don’t require much preparation. We found that five minutes of simmering was all that was needed to produce bright, tender green peas. Switching from a saucepan to a skillet allowed the peas to heat more quickly and evenly over the larger surface. Butter stirred in after the peas finished simmering contributed body without drowning them in fat, while a generous dose of chopped fresh mint provided a nice aromatic complement. A healthy squirt of lemon juice stirred into the peas just before serving rounded out the flavors, and a smidge of sugar added to the broth brought everything into balance. From there, it was easy to come up with several flavorful variations.