The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (176 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Most roast beef tenderloins have one of two problems—either the meat is evenly cooked but it lacks a dark, caramelized crust, or the beef has optimal flavor and an appealing crust, but is marred by a thick, gray band of overdone meat. We wanted a technique that would produce perfectly cooked and deeply flavored meat—ideally without too much fuss. We decided to use a Châteaubriand; this center-cut roast has an even shape and smaller size, making it easier to cook evenly. We reversed the usual cooking process for tenderloin, roasting first and then searing, to eliminate the ring of overdone meat just below the crust and give the roast a ruby coloring from edge to edge. Salting the meat and rubbing it with softened butter helped it hold on to its juices and gave it richness.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Ask your butcher to prepare a trimmed center-cut Châteaubriand from the whole tenderloin, as this cut is not usually available without special ordering. If you are cooking for a crowd, this recipe can be doubled to make two roasts. Sear the roasts one after the other, wiping out the pan and adding new oil after searing the first roast. Both pieces of meat can be roasted on the same rack.
1 | (2-pound) beef tenderloin center-cut Châteaubriand, trimmed |
2 | teaspoons kosher salt |
1 | teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper |
2 | tablespoons unsalted butter, softened |
1 | tablespoon vegetable oil |
1 | recipe flavored butter (recipes follow) |
1.
Using 12-inch lengths of kitchen twine, tie roast crosswise at 1¹⁄
2
-inch intervals. Sprinkle roast evenly with salt, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees.
2.
Pat roast dry with paper towels. Sprinkle roast evenly with pepper and spread unsalted butter evenly over surface. Transfer roast to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Roast until meat registers
125 degrees (for medium-rare), 40 to 55 minutes, or 135 degrees (for medium), 55 to 70 minutes, flipping roast halfway through cooking.
3.
Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Place roast in skillet and sear until well browned on all sides, 4 to 8 minutes. Transfer roast to carving board and spread 2 tablespoons flavored butter evenly over top of roast; let rest 15 minutes. Remove twine and cut meat crosswise into ¹⁄
2
-inch-thick slices. Serve, passing remaining flavored butter separately.
MAKES ABOUT
¹⁄
2
CUP,
ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
ROAST BEEF TENDERLOIN
4 | tablespoons unsalted butter, softened |
¹⁄ | shallot, minced |
1 | tablespoon minced fresh parsley |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
Combine all ingredients in bowl.
MAKES ABOUT
¹⁄
2
CUP,
ENOUGH FOR 1 RECIPE
ROAST BEEF TENDERLOIN
5 | tablespoons unsalted butter, softened |
1 | tablespoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce, with 1 teaspoon adobo sauce |
1 | tablespoon minced fresh cilantro |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
1 | teaspoon honey |
1 | teaspoon grated lime zest |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
Combine all ingredients in bowl.
THE IMPORTANCE OF RESTING MEAT
You’ll never see anyone in the test kitchen cut into a roast, or any meat, straight from the oven. We always let it rest before slicing. Exposed to heat during cooking, proteins, which resemble coiled springs, undergo a radical transformation in which they uncoil and then reconnect to each other in haphazard structures. This process, called coagulation, is the reason that proteins become firm and lose moisture during the cooking process. The longer that proteins are exposed to heat, the tighter they coagulate and the more liquid they drive toward both the surface and the center of the meat, much like wringing a wet kitchen towel.
If you were to cut the meat immediately after removing it from the heat source, the liquid suspended between the interior proteins is driven toward the surface and would simply pool (or what many chefs call bleed) on the carving board or plate because the proteins have not had time to relax. The best way to prevent this pooling of juices and a dry hunk of meat is to rest the roast. Although the process of coagulation is not reversible, allowing the protein molecules to relax after cooking slows the rate which they continue to squeeze the liquid between their tight coils and increases their capacity to retain moisture. A short rest on the carving board will decrease the amount of liquid lost during carving by about 40 percent. There’s another good reason to have some patience and let your meat rest—it allows you some time to finish the other components of dinner, which is especially useful around the holidays when there are typically loads of sides to get to the table too.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Stuffed beef tenderloin could be the ultimate main course, if only it weren’t so hard to get right. A tenderloin’s thick, tapered shape makes it difficult to cook evenly, while a stuffing that’s too bulky or absorbent makes an unappealing mess. For stuffed beef tenderloin with a deeply charred crust, a tender, rosy-pink interior, and an intensely flavored stuffing that stayed neatly rolled in the meat, we chose the almost perfectly cylindrical Châteaubriand and used a “double-butterfly” procedure—making two cuts so the roast opened up into three parts. In this way, the roast accommodated 50 percent more filling than a conventionally butterflied roast. We tried a “deluxe” filing of lobster and chanterelles, but the mix was so chunky that the stuffing fell out of the meat once sliced. Instead we turned to earthy cremini and caramelized onions. The caramelized onions contributed sweetness and bound the mushrooms into a thick, slightly sticky, jamlike stuffing that stayed in place during carving. Garlic, a splash of Madeira, and a layer of baby spinach rounded out the flavors. We created a suitable crust for our tenderloin in a shortened cooking time by coating the exterior of the roast with kosher salt an hour before searing, which allowed the salt to begin to break down the protein fibers in the outermost layer of meat, so that it browned quickly.
See “BUTTERFLYING, STUFFING, AND TYING A TENDERLOIN” illustrations that follow recipe.
SERVES 6 TO 8
This recipe can be doubled to make two roasts. Sear the roasts one after the other, wiping out the pan and adding new oil after searing the first roast. Both pieces of meat can be roasted on the same rack.
STUFFING
8 | ounces cremini mushrooms, trimmed and broken into rough pieces |
¹⁄ | tablespoon unsalted butter |
1¹⁄ | teaspoons olive oil |
1 | onion, halved and sliced ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
¹⁄ | cup Madeira or sweet Marsala wine |
BEEF ROAST
1 | (2- to 3-pound) beef tenderloin center-cut Châteaubriand, trimmed |
Kosher salt and pepper | |
¹⁄ | cup baby spinach |
3 | tablespoons olive oil |
HERB BUTTER
4 | tablespoons unsalted butter, softened |
1 | tablespoon whole grain mustard |
1 | tablespoon chopped fresh parsley |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
³⁄ | teaspoon chopped fresh thyme |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
1. FOR THE STUFFING:
Process mushrooms in food processor until coarsely chopped, about 6 pulses. Heat butter and oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion, salt, and pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until onion begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until all moisture has evaporated, 5 to 7 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables are deeply browned and sticky, about 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Slowly stir in Madeira and cook, scraping bottom of skillet with wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits, until liquid has evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer mushroom mixture to plate and cool to room temperature.
2. FOR THE ROAST:
To butterfly roast, insert chef’s knife about 1 inch from bottom of roast and cut horizontally, stopping just before edge. Open meat like a book. Make another cut diagonally into thicker portion of roast. Open up this flap, smoothing out butterflied rectangle of meat. Season cut side of roast with kosher salt and pepper. Spread cooled stuffing mixture over interior of roast, leaving ¹⁄
2
-inch border on all sides; lay spinach on top of stuffing. Roll roast lengthwise and tie with 8 pieces kitchen twine evenly spaced.
3.
Stir 1 tablespoon oil, 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons kosher salt, and 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons pepper together in small bowl. Rub roast with oil mixture and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
4.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add beef and cook until well browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes total. Transfer beef to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and place in oven. Roast until thickest part of roast registers 120 degrees (for rare), 16 to 18 minutes, or 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 20 to 22 minutes.
5. FOR THE HERB BUTTER:
While meat roasts, combine butter ingredients in bowl. Transfer tenderloin to carving board; spread half of butter evenly over top of roast. Loosely tent roast with aluminum foil; let rest for 15 minutes. Cut roast between pieces of twine into thick slices. Remove twine and serve with remaining butter.
SERVES 6 TO 8
This recipe can be doubled to make two roasts. Sear the roasts one after the other, wiping out the pan and adding new oil after searing the first roast. Both pieces of meat can be roasted on the same rack.
STUFFING
2 | teaspoons olive oil |
1 | shallot, minced |
²⁄ | cup ruby port |
¹⁄ | cup chopped prunes |
¹⁄ | cup dried chopped apricots |
¹⁄ | teaspoon minced fresh thyme |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
2 | tablespoons balsamic vinegar |
BEEF ROAST
1 | (2- to 3-pound) beef tenderloin center-cut Châteaubriand, trimmed |
Kosher salt and pepper | |
2 | tablespoons toasted pecans, chopped |
3 | tablespoons olive oil |
STILTON BUTTER
1 | ounce Stilton cheese, crumbled |
3 | tablespoons unsalted butter, softened |
1 | tablespoon chopped fresh parsley |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
1. FOR THE STUFFING:
Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Meanwhile, combine port, prunes, and apricots in bowl; cover and microwave until simmering, about 2 minutes.
2.
When shallot is softened, add fruit mixture, thyme, salt, and pepper; continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture is thick, 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in balsamic vinegar. Transfer fruit mixture to plate. Set aside and cool to room temperature.
3. FOR THE ROAST:
To butterfly roast, insert chef’s knife about 1 inch from bottom of roast and cut horizontally, stopping just before edge. Open meat like a book. Make another cut diagonally into thicker portion of roast. Open up this flap, smoothing out butterflied rectangle of meat.
Season cut side of roast with kosher salt and pepper. Spread cooled stuffing mixture over interior of roast, leaving ¹⁄
2
-inch border on all sides; distribute pecans on top of stuffing. Roll roast lengthwise and tie with 8 pieces kitchen twine evenly spaced.
4.
Stir 1 tablespoon oil, 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons kosher salt, and 1¹⁄
2
teaspoons pepper together in small bowl. Rub roast with oil mixture and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
5.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add beef and cook until well browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes total. Transfer beef to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and place in oven. Roast until thickest part of roast registers 120 degrees (for rare), 16 to 18 minutes, or 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 20 to 22 minutes.
6. FOR THE STILTON BUTTER:
While meat roasts, combine butter ingredients in bowl. Transfer tenderloin to carving board; spread half of butter evenly over top of roast. Loosely tent roast with aluminum foil; let rest for 15 minutes. Cut roast between pieces of twine into thick slices. Remove twine and serve with remaining butter.