The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (286 page)

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Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen

Tags: #Cooking

BOOK: The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook
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ASSEMBLING CALZONES

1.
With floured rolling pin, roll outward from center in all directions until dough forms 9-inch circle. If dough sticks, dust work surface underneath with flour.

2.
Place scant ¹⁄
2
cup of filling in center of bottom half of dough round. Using small spatula, spread or press filling in even layer across bottom half of dough round, leaving 1-inch border uncovered.

3.
Fold top half of dough over cheese-covered bottom half, leaving ¹⁄
2
-inch border of bottom layer uncovered.

4.
With your fingertips, lightly press around silhouette of filling and out to edge to lightly seal dough shut.

5.
Beginning at 1 end of seam, place index finger diagonally across edge and gently pull bottom layer of dough over tip of index finger; press into dough to seal. Repeat process until calzone is fully sealed.

6.
With sharp knife, cut 6 slits, about 1¹⁄
2
inches long, diagonally across top of calzone, making sure to cut through only top layer of dough and not completely through calzone.

PIZZA BIANCA

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

The Roman version of pizza has a crust like no other we’ve ever tasted: crisp but extraordinarily chewy. It’s so good on its own that it’s usually topped with just olive oil, rosemary, and kosher salt. We wanted to figure out how we could enjoy this marvel without taking a trip to Italy. This pizza dough contains significantly more water than other styles, which is the secret to its chewy texture. But extra-wet doughs require more kneading, and we wanted to make this dish at home in a reasonable amount of time. Instead of a long knead, we let the dough rest for 20 minutes, which let us get away with just 10 minutes of kneading. After an initial rise, the dough was still sticky; we couldn’t roll it out, but it was easy to pour out then press onto a baking sheet. After letting the dough rest briefly, we baked the crust, adding just kosher salt, oil, and rosemary to remain true to the authentic version.

PIZZA BIANCA

SERVES 6 TO 8

If you don’t have a stand mixer, you can mix the dough by hand following the instructions in
“TEST KITCHEN TIP NO. 119 HAND-MIXING METHOD FOR DOUGH”
. If you don’t have a baking stone, bake the pizza on an overturned and preheated rimmed baking sheet set on the lowest oven rack. This recipe was developed using an 18 by 13-inch baking sheet. Smaller baking sheets can be used, but because the pizza will be thicker, baking times will be longer. Place a damp kitchen towel under the mixer and watch it at all times during kneading to prevent it from wobbling off the counter. Handle the dough with lightly oiled hands to prevent sticking. Resist flouring your fingers or the dough might stick further. Serve the pizza by itself as a snack, or with soup or salad as a light entrée.

3

cups (15 ounces) all-purpose flour

1²⁄
3

cups water, room temperature

1¹⁄
4

teaspoons salt

1¹⁄
2

teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast

1¹⁄
4

teaspoons sugar

5

tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1

teaspoon kosher salt

2

tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves

1.
Using stand mixer fitted with dough hook, mix flour, water, and salt together on low speed until no areas of dry flour remain, 3 to 4 minutes, scraping down bowl as needed. Turn off mixer and let dough rest for 20 minutes.

2.
Sprinkle yeast and sugar over dough. Knead on low speed until fully combined, 1 to 2 minutes. Increase mixer speed to high and knead until dough is glossy and smooth and pulls away from sides of bowl, 6 to 10 minutes. (Dough will pull away from sides only while mixer is on. When mixer is off, dough will fall back to sides.)

3.
Using fingers, coat large bowl with 1 tablespoon oil, rubbing excess oil from fingers onto blade of rubber spatula. Using oiled spatula, transfer dough to prepared bowl and pour 1 tablespoon oil over top. Flip dough over once so that it is well coated with oil; cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let dough rise at room temperature until nearly tripled in volume and large bubbles have formed, 2 to 2¹⁄
2
hours. (Dough can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Bring dough to room temperature, 2 to 2¹⁄
2
hours, before proceeding with step 4.)

4.
One hour before baking, adjust oven rack to middle position, place baking stone on rack, and heat oven to 450 degrees. Coat rimmed baking sheet with 2 tablespoons oil. Using rubber spatula, turn dough out onto prepared baking sheet along with any oil in bowl. Using fingertips, press dough out toward edges of baking sheet, taking care not to tear it. (Dough will not fit snugly into corners. If dough resists stretching, let it relax for 5 to 10 minutes before trying to stretch it again.) Let dough rest until slightly bubbly, 5 to 10 minutes. Using dinner fork, poke surface of dough 30 to 40 times and sprinkle with kosher salt.

5.
Bake until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes, sprinkling rosemary over top and rotating baking sheet halfway through baking. Using metal spatula, transfer pizza to cutting board. Brush dough lightly with remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Slice and serve immediately.

PIZZA BIANCA WITH TOMATOES AND MOZZARELLA

Place one 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes in fine-mesh strainer set over medium bowl. Let sit for 30 minutes, stirring 3 times to allow juices to drain. Combine ³⁄
4
cup tomato solids, 1 tablespoon olive oil, and ¹⁄
8
teaspoon salt. (Save remaining solids and juice for another use). Omit kosher salt and rosemary. In step 5, bake pizza until spotty brown, 15 to 17 minutes. Remove pizza from oven, spread tomato mixture evenly over surface, and sprinkle with 1¹⁄
2
cups shredded mozzarella (do not brush pizza with remaining 1 tablespoon oil). Return pizza to oven and continue to bake until cheese begins to brown in spots, 5 to 10 minutes longer.

PIZZA BIANCA WITH CARAMELIZED ONIONS AND GRUYÈRE

Heat 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until butter is melted. Stir in 1 teaspoon light brown sugar and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt, then add 2 pounds onions, halved and sliced ¹⁄
4
inch thick, and stir to coat; cook, stirring occasionally, until onions begin to soften and release some moisture, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until onions are deeply browned and slightly sticky, about 40 minutes longer. (If onions are sizzling or scorching, reduce heat. If onions are not browning after 15 to 20 minutes, raise heat.) Off heat, stir in 1 tablespoon water; season with pepper to taste. Transfer to large plate and let cool to room temperature. In step 5, bake pizza until spotty brown, 15 to 17 minutes. Remove pizza from oven, spread onions evenly over surface, and sprinkle with 2 cups shredded Gruyère and 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme (do not brush pizza with remaining 1 tablespoon oil). Return pizza to oven and continue to bake until cheese begins to brown in spots, 5 to 10 minutes longer.

PIZZA BIANCA WITH TOMATOES, SAUSAGE, AND FONTINA

Cook ³⁄
4
pound sweet Italian sausage, casings removed, in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, breaking it into small pieces with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Remove sausage with slotted spoon and transfer to paper towel–lined plate. Place one 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes in fine-mesh strainer set over medium bowl. Let sit for 30 minutes, stirring 3 times to allow juices to drain. Combine ³⁄
4
cup tomato solids, 1 tablespoon olive oil, and ¹⁄
8
teaspoon salt. (Save remaining solids and juice for another use). Omit kosher salt and rosemary. In step 5, bake pizza until spotty brown, 15 to 17 minutes. Remove pizza from oven, spread tomato mixture evenly over surface, and sprinkle with 2 cups shredded fontina cheese and sausage (do not brush pizza with remaining 1 tablespoon oil). Return pizza to oven and continue to bake until cheese begins to brown in spots, 5 to 10 minutes longer.

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