The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (350 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Fragrant, sweet-tart raspberries dressed up with bread crumbs, and baked, make a perfect gratin. The topping browns and the fruit is warmed just enough to release a bit of juice. We wanted to find the quickest, easiest route to this pleasing simple summer dessert. We started with perfect raspberries: ripe, dry, and unbruised. Tossing the berries with just a bit of sugar and kirsch (a clear cherry brandy) provided enough additional flavor and sweetness. For the topping, we combined soft white bread, brown sugar, cinnamon, and butter in the food processor and topped the berries with the fluffy crumbs. As for baking the gratin, we found that a moderately hot oven gave the berries more time to soften and browned the crust more evenly.
SERVES 4 TO 6
If you prefer, you can substitute blueberries, blackberries, or strawberries for part or all of the raspberries. If using strawberries, hull them and slice them in half lengthwise if small or into quarters if large. Later in the summer season, ripe, peeled peaches or nectarines, sliced, can be used in combination with the blueberries or raspberries. If using frozen raspberries, do not thaw them before baking.
20 | ounces (4 cups) fresh or frozen raspberries |
1 | tablespoon granulated sugar |
1 | tablespoon kirsch or vanilla extract (optional) |
Pinch salt | |
3 | slices hearty white sandwich bread, torn into quarters |
¹⁄ | cup packed (1³⁄ |
2 | tablespoons unsalted butter, softened |
Pinch ground cinnamon |
1.
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Gently toss raspberries, granulated sugar, kirsch, if using, and salt in medium bowl. Transfer mixture to 9-inch pie plate.
2.
Pulse bread, brown sugar, butter, and cinnamon in food processor until mixture resembles coarse crumbs, about 10 pulses. Sprinkle crumbs evenly over fruit and bake until crumbs are deep golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer plate to wire rack, let cool for 5 minutes, and serve warm.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Gratins can be very humble, as in our
EASY RASPBERRY GRATIN
, where the topping is simply sweetened bread crumbs. Or they can be a bit more sophisticated, as when they are topped with the foamy Italian custard called zabaglione. Zabaglione is made with just three ingredients—egg yolks, sugar, and alcohol—but it requires constant watching so that the mixture doesn’t overcook. It also needs to be whisked until it’s the ideal thick, creamy texture. We were after a foolproof method for this topping for a gratin that could serve as an elegant finale to a summer meal. We chose to make individual gratins—perfect for entertaining—and settled on a mix of berries, which we tossed with sugar and salt to draw out their juices. To prevent a custard with scrambled eggs, we kept the heat low; for the right texture, we whisked until the custard was somewhat thick. As for flavor, traditional Marsala wine gave us an overly sweet zabaglione; crisp, dry Sauvignon Blanc provided a clean flavor that worked better with the berries. Whipped cream worked well as a thickening agent. We spooned our zabaglione over the berries and sprinkled a mixture of brown and white sugars on top before broiling for a crackly, caramelized crust.
SERVES 4
When making the zabaglione, make sure to cook the egg mixture in a glass bowl over water that is barely simmering; glass conducts heat more evenly and gently than metal. If the heat is too high, the yolks around the edges of the bowl will start to scramble. Constant whisking is required. Do not use frozen berries for this recipe. You will need four shallow 6-inch gratin dishes, but a broiler-safe pie plate or gratin dish can be used instead. To prevent scorching, pay close attention to the gratins when broiling.
BERRY MIXTURE
15 | ounces mixed berries (raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, and strawberries; strawberries hulled and halved lengthwise if small, quartered if large) (3 cups) |
2 | teaspoons granulated sugar |
Pinch salt |
ZABAGLIONE
3 | large egg yolks |
3 | tablespoons granulated sugar |
3 | tablespoons dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc |
2 | teaspoons light brown sugar |
3 | tablespoons heavy cream, chilled |
1. FOR THE BERRY MIXTURE:
Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Toss berries, sugar, and salt together in bowl. Divide berry mixture evenly among 4 shallow 6-ounce gratin dishes set on prepared baking sheet; set aside.
2. FOR THE ZABAGLIONE:
Whisk egg yolks, 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar, and wine together in medium bowl until sugar is dissolved, about 1 minute. Set bowl over saucepan of barely simmering water and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is frothy. Continue to cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is slightly thickened, creamy, and glossy, 5 to 10 minutes (mixture will form loose mounds when dripped from whisk). Remove bowl from saucepan and whisk constantly for 30 seconds to cool slightly. Transfer bowl to refrigerator and chill until egg mixture is completely cool, about 10 minutes.
3.
Meanwhile, adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Combine brown sugar and remaining 2 teaspoons granulated sugar in bowl.
4.
Whisk heavy cream in large bowl until it holds soft peaks, 30 to 90 seconds. Using rubber spatula, gently fold whipped cream into cooled egg mixture. Spoon zabaglione over berries and sprinkle sugar mixture evenly on top; let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes, until sugar dissolves.
5.
Broil gratins until sugar is bubbly and caramelized, 1 to 4 minutes. Serve immediately.
Heat 2 teaspoons dried lavender and ¹⁄
4
cup dry white wine in small saucepan over medium heat until barely simmering; remove from heat and let stand 10 minutes. Strain wine through fine-mesh strainer and discard lavender (you should have 3 tablespoons wine). Substitute lavender-infused wine for white wine and 2 teaspoons honey for 1 teaspoon granulated sugar in step 2.
Replace 1 tablespoon wine with equal amount lemon juice and add 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest to egg yolk mixture in step 2.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
A crêpe is nothing but a thin pancake cooked quickly on each side and wrapped around a sweet or savory filling, but it has a reputation for being difficult. We wanted an easy method for crêpes that were thin and delicate yet rich and flavorfully browned in spots. Finding the perfect ratio of milk to flour and sugar gave us rich-tasting, lightly sweet pancakes. We were surprised to find that neither the type of flour nor the mixing method seemed to matter, and a plain old 12-inch nonstick skillet worked as well as a specialty crêpe pan. What does matter is heating the pan properly (over low heat for at least 10 minutes), using the right amount of batter (we settled on ¹⁄
4
cup), and flipping the crêpe precisely at the right moment, when the edges appear dry, matte, and lacy. Fillings such as lemon and sugar, bananas and Nutella, honey and almonds, chocolate and orange, and dulce de leche and pecans turned our thin crêpes into a sweet treat.
SERVES 4
Crêpes will give off steam as they cook, but if at any point the skillet begins to smoke, remove it from the heat immediately and turn down the heat. Stacking the crêpes on a wire rack allows excess steam to escape so they won’t stick together. To allow for practice, the recipe yields 10 crêpes; only eight are needed for the filling.
¹⁄ | teaspoon vegetable oil |
1 | cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour |
3 | tablespoons sugar |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
1¹⁄ | cups whole milk |
3 | large eggs |
2 | tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled |
Lemon wedges |
1.
Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over low heat for at least 10 minutes.
2.
While skillet is heating, whisk flour, 1 teaspoon sugar, and salt together in medium bowl. In separate bowl, whisk together milk and eggs. Add half of milk mixture to dry ingredients and whisk until smooth. Add butter and whisk until incorporated. Whisk in remaining milk mixture until smooth.
3.
Wipe out skillet with paper towel, leaving thin film of oil on bottom and sides of pan. Increase heat to medium and let skillet heat for 1 minute. After 1 minute, test heat of skillet by placing 1 teaspoon batter in center and cook for 20 seconds. If mini crêpe is golden brown on bottom, skillet is properly heated; if it is too light or too dark, adjust heat accordingly and retest.
4.
Pour ¹⁄
4
cup batter into far side of pan and tilt and shake gently until batter evenly covers bottom of pan. Cook crêpe without moving until top surface is dry and edges are starting to brown, loosening crêpe from side of pan with rubber spatula, about 25 seconds. Gently slide spatula underneath edge of crêpe, grasp edge with fingertips, and flip crêpe. Cook until second side is lightly spotted, about 20 seconds. Transfer cooked crêpe to wire rack, inverting so spotted side is facing up. Return pan to heat and heat for 10 seconds before repeating with remaining batter. As crêpes are done, stack on wire rack.
5.
Transfer stack of crêpes to large plate and invert second plate over crêpes. Microwave until crêpes are warm, 30 to 45 seconds (45 to 60 seconds if crêpes have cooled completely). Remove top plate and wipe dry with paper towel. Sprinkle half of top crêpe with 1 teaspoon sugar. Fold unsugared bottom half over sugared half, then fold into quarters. Transfer sugared crêpe to second plate. Continue with remaining crêpes. Serve immediately, passing lemon wedges separately.
Omit 8 teaspoons sprinkling sugar and lemon wedges. Spread 2 teaspoons Nutella over half of each crêpe followed by eight to ten ¹⁄
4
-inch-thick banana slices. Fold crêpes into quarters. Serve immediately.
Omit 8 teaspoons sprinkling sugar and lemon wedges. Drizzle 1 teaspoon honey over half of each crêpe and sprinkle with 2 teaspoons finely chopped toasted sliced almonds and pinch salt. Fold crêpes into quarters. Serve immediately.
Omit 8 teaspoons sprinkling sugar and lemon wedges. Using fingertips, rub 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest into ¹⁄
4
cup sugar. Stir in 2 ounces finely grated bittersweet chocolate. Sprinkle 1¹⁄
2
tablespoons chocolate-orange mixture over half of each crêpe. Fold crêpes into quarters. Serve immediately.
Dulce de leche is a milk-based caramel sauce and spread. Look for it in the international foods aisle of supermarkets or in Latin markets.
Omit 8 teaspoons sprinkling sugar and lemon wedges. Drizzle 1 teaspoon dulce de leche over half of each crêpe and sprinkle with 2 teaspoons finely chopped toasted pecans and small pinch salt. Fold crêpe into quarters. Serve immediately.