The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (83 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
SERVES 4 TO 6
Cavatappi is a short, tubular, corkscrew-shaped pasta. Penne is a fine substitute. The grated apple, added just before serving, balances the other flavors in this dish.
5 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
1 | pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths |
Salt | |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
1 | cup walnuts, chopped |
4 | ounces baby arugula (4 cups) |
1 | pound cavatappi |
6 | ounces strong blue cheese, such as Roquefort, crumbled (1¹⁄ |
2 | tablespoons cider vinegar |
1 | Granny Smith apple, peeled |
1.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add asparagus, ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt, and pepper and cook, without stirring, until asparagus begins to brown, about 1 minute. Add walnuts and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until asparagus is crisp-tender and nuts are toasted, about 4 minutes longer. Stir in arugula, 1 handful at a time, until wilted.
2.
Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ¹⁄
2
cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add asparagus mixture, blue cheese, vinegar, and remaining 3 tablespoons oil to pasta and toss to combine. Add reserved cooking water as needed to adjust consistency. Serve immediately, grating apple over individual portions.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Campanelle can be substituted for the farfalle.
2 | tablespoons vegetable oil |
1 | pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths |
2 | shallots, sliced into thin rings |
3 | large garlic cloves, sliced thin |
Salt | |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
6 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
1 | cup sliced almonds |
¹⁄ | cup sherry vinegar |
1 | teaspoon minced fresh thyme |
1 | pound farfalle |
2 | ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup) |
1.
Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add asparagus and cook, without stirring, until beginning to brown, about 1 minute. Stir in shallots, garlic, ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt, and pepper and continue to cook, stirring often, until asparagus is crisp-tender, about 4 minutes; transfer asparagus mixture to large plate.
2.
Melt butter in now-empty skillet over medium-high heat. Add almonds and cook, stirring constantly, until toasted and browned and butter is nutty and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in asparagus mixture, vinegar, and thyme.
3.
Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ¹⁄
2
cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add asparagus mixture and ¹⁄
2
cup Parmesan to pasta and toss to combine. Add reserved cooking water as needed to adjust consistency. Serve immediately, passing remaining ¹⁄
2
cup Parmesan separately.
The tough, woody part of the stem will break off in just the right place with this method, without cutting.
Bend spear about 1 inch up from bottom until it snaps.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
To create a bold, complex pasta alla norma without a lot of work, we came up with a few strategies. First, we microwaved cubes of salted eggplant to quickly draw the moisture from it. We then added a secret ingredient, anchovies, to our tomato sauce to give it a deep, savory flavor without any fishiness. We also found that the eggplant should be combined with the sauce at the last minute to prevent it from soaking up too much moisture and becoming soggy. Finally, before serving, we sprinkled
ricotta salata
, a salted, slightly aged ricotta that is traditional in pasta alla Norma, over the dish.
SERVES 4
Ricotta salata is traditional, but French feta, Pecorino Romano, and Cotija (a firm, crumbly Mexican cheese) are acceptable substitutes. We prefer kosher salt because it clings best to the eggplant. If using table salt, reduce salt amounts by half. Use the smaller amount of red pepper flakes for a milder sauce.
1¹⁄ | pounds eggplant, cut into ¹⁄ |
Kosher salt | |
¹⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil |
4 | garlic cloves, minced |
2 | anchovy fillets, rinsed and minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon red pepper flakes |
1 | (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes |
6 | tablespoons chopped fresh basil |
1 | pound ziti, rigatoni, or penne |
3 | ounces ricotta salata, shredded (1¹⁄ |
1.
Toss eggplant with 1 teaspoon salt in large bowl. Line surface of large plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Spread eggplant in even layer over coffee filters; wipe out and reserve bowl. Microwave eggplant, uncovered, until dry to touch and slightly shriveled, about 10 minutes, tossing halfway through cooking. Cool slightly.
2.
Transfer eggplant to now-empty bowl, drizzle with 1 tablespoon oil, and toss gently to coat; discard coffee filters and reserve plate. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant and cook, stirring every 1¹⁄
2
to 2 minutes (more frequent stirring may cause eggplant pieces to break apart), until well browned and fully tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer eggplant to now-empty plate and set aside. Cool skillet slightly, about 3 minutes.
3.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, anchovies, and pepper flakes in now-empty skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until garlic turns golden but not brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, bring to simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add eggplant and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until eggplant is heated through and flavors meld, 3 to 5 minutes longer. Stir in basil and remaining 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt to taste.
4.
Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 2 tablespoons salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ¹⁄
2
cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add sauce to pasta and toss to combine. Add reserved cooking water as needed to adjust consistency. Serve immediately, passing ricotta salata separately.
Substitute 6 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley for basil and add ¹⁄
2
cup pitted and sliced kalamata olives and 2 tablespoons rinsed capers with parsley.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
For a pasta and squash recipe that would marry the two ingredients in a light, flavorful way while avoiding blandness, we kept the skin on the squash to keep the pieces intact, then salted the squash to release excess liquid and concentrate the vegetable’s flavor. We finished the sauce with an acid, such as balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, or red wine vinegar, to give it a kick and paired the sauce with farfalle to best trap the bits of flavor-packed ingredients.
SERVES 4 TO 6
A combination of zucchini and summer squash makes for a nice mix of colors, but either may be used exclusively if desired. We prefer kosher salt because residual grains are easily wiped away from the squash. If using table salt, reduce salt amounts by half.
2 | pounds zucchini and/or summer squash, halved lengthwise and sliced ¹⁄ |
Kosher salt and pepper | |
5 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
3 | garlic cloves, minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon red pepper flakes |
1 | pound farfalle |
12 | ounces grape tomatoes, halved |
¹⁄ | cup chopped fresh basil |
¹⁄ | cup pine nuts, toasted |
2 | tablespoons balsamic vinegar |
Grated Parmesan cheese |
1.
Toss squash with 1 tablespoon salt, transfer to large colander set over bowl, and let stand 30 minutes. Spread squash evenly over double layer of paper towels. Pat squash dry with additional paper towels and wipe off residual salt.
2.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of squash and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and slightly charred, 5 to 7 minutes, reducing heat if skillet begins to scorch. Transfer squash to large plate. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining squash; transfer to plate.
3.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in squash and cook until heated through, about 30 seconds.
4.
Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 2 tablespoons salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ¹⁄
2
cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add squash mixture, tomatoes, basil, pine nuts, vinegar, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil to pasta and toss to combine. Add reserved cooking water as needed to adjust consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve, passing Parmesan separately.