The Decadent Cookbook (29 page)

When the
Meringues
are dried, and quit the paper easily, place three of them on the dome with the small hole, laying the first on the white part nearest the border; the second a quarter of an inch above the first; the third the same distance from the second; range them on the five other spaces in the same manner. Replace them in the oven, and when equally coloured withdraw them; thus forming one single
Meringue
.

Range on the second dome six
Meringues
on the spaces between the pistachios, a quarter of an inch from the edge, and the other six the same distance above them; set them in the oven to colour.

Boil six ounces of sugar to a caramel, pour three-fourths of it onto a stewpan-cover lightly buttered, mask the fire in the stove with some ashes to deaden it, but yet to leave sufficient heat to keep the sugar in a syrup. Lay the largest board on a double sheet of paper, upon the back of a baking-sheet, put the washed side of the next in size downwards on the larger one. Dip a
Gaufre
at one end into the sugar, and stick it immediately on the smaller sheet, one-sixth of an inch from the edge; dip another, and stick close to the last, and so proceed all round, setting them upright, and at the same distance from the edge. Dip six of the supports at one end into the sugar, and place them upright on the edge of the baking-sheet on which the board is lying, that the caramel on them may spread out.

Warm the sugar remaining in the pan, and when melted, dip the other ends of the supports into it, and place them immediately in the centre of the board, two inches from each other. Whilst the sugar is hot, put a little on the ends of the supports arranged for that purpose, by the sugar already there; turn this stand over quickly on the centre of the larger sheet, pressing on it gently that the supports may adhere to it.

Form the other two steps in the same manner, with the
petits pains
, with coffee icing, and form a neat border of small white pastries round the edges of each stand. Garnish round the lower stand with small
nougats
*; the second with
petits choux
*, with chocolate icings, and filled with apricot jam. Stick them on slightly with a little caramel.

Then place the
Meringue
, with the largest opening, on the third sheet, giving it the appearance of a cup, and fixing eight macaroons, or
croquignoles
*, round the bottom within it, partly to the sheet, and partly to the cup, to prevent it falling; as also eight more just within the upper edge of the cup, but rising above it sufficiently to prevent the upper dome from shaking off.

Lift (with one finger through the small hole) the second dome on the first, and on the hole fix the largest of the lesser
Meringues
. When serving, take off the upper dome, and fill the lower
Meringue
with the
Crème Chantilly
, seasoned with vanille, and lay on the cream (which should form a paramid) some strawberries; then fill with cream the small
Meringue
for the centre of the top of the large one, (as the design represents). The person whose office it is to serve the dish should raise the upper dome, and breaking it in pieces, should give a spoonful of cream, and on one side of it a fragment of the
Meringue
.

Sift one pound and a half of flour, make a hollow in it, and put in two eggs and three yolks, one pound of pounded sugar, and a little salt; stir these for two minutes, that the sugar may be somewhat melted, then work in the flour, and if necessary, another yolk, so as to render it as firm as if for building a pie.
Fraisez
it five or six times by rubbing the mixture between the hands and the dresser until a sort of crumb, like bread-crumbs, is produced, which gradually moisten, mixing and rubbing it lightly till it becomes a mass; then work it by passing it in small pieces between the pressure of the hands and the dresser to mingle the soft and the hard parts together, forming it into one equally smooth and firm body… The paste should be firm, and yet soft enough to mould easily; otherwise add another yolk or white of egg.

Afterwards cut the paste in pieces, mould and roll it of the thickness of one-sixth of an inch, to serve for the bottoms (or boards) of a
pièce montée
. Put the paste on a baking-sheet lightly buttered, and with the fingers press out the air between the paste and the sheet (without this precaution the heat would deform it, and from the heat not acting equally throughout, it would possess less solidity). When thus arranged, cut it with the point of a knife, as may be wished, and prick it to assist the escape of air. Wash the surface lightly, but not the sides, put it into a moderate oven, and if it blisters, pass the blade of a large knife under it, and (if done enough) turn it over to obtain a light brown colour on both sides.

When taken from the oven lay it on the most even part of the dresser, and place the baking-sheet upon it to remain until cold, when the paste will be perfectly level on both sides.

All boards of Pâte d’Office are thus made: the preparation will succeed perfectly by using twelve ounces instead of one pound of sugar.

Skin and cut in fillets, as thin as possible, half a pound of sweet almonds, mix them with four ounces of pounded sugar, half a table-spoonful of flour, the rind of an orange grated, two whole eggs, and one yolk, and a pinch of salt; stir them gently, so as not to break the almonds; when well mixed, rub wax on a baking-sheet, eighteen inches long by twelve inches wide, on which spread the preparation very even, arranging the almonds with a fork; then strew two ounces of pistachios cut in fillets upon them, and put them into an oven of a moderate heat, until of a fine clear light brown colour, and the same underneath; cover them with paper, if they are not coloured at the bottom, to keep them light at top; watch for the exact moment when they are done, as a moment too much renders them too brittle to give them any correct form, and if a moment too little, they will not preserve their shape, and instead of being crisp, will be very disagreeable eating; when perfectly baked, cut them in pieces two inches square (or in lengths one inch and a half wide, and two inches and a half long), and keep the baking-sheet at the mouth of the oven, whilst you fold these squares over a round stick one inch and a half in diameter, and four or five feet long; as this operation must be performed whilst they are hot, it would be a better method to lay them on two baking-sheets, putting the second to bake four or five minutes after the first, thus obtaining time to perform it with more success and certainty. The preparation for these wafers may be made with five yolks, or five whites, without any detriment to the operation, and they may be served without folding them, by cutting them three inches in length, and one inch in width only; and dip the edges of them neatly into caramel sugar, and then into some chopped pistachios, so that the wafers are green all round; spread apple or white currant jelly on the bottom of one, and lay another on it; in this manner,
gaufres au gros sucre
are made; or the sugar may be mingled with two ounces of chopped pistachios, producing a fine effect, and easily accomplished.

Put into a stewpan a pint of water, with two ounces of fresh butter; when boiling, remove it from the fire, and mix with it six ounces of sifted flour; work it smooth, and dry it for a few minutes as usual; change the stewpan, and add two eggs and two ounces of pounded sugar; the whole well mixed, add two eggs and the rind of a lemon chopped fine; then again add an egg or two, as the paste may require; it should be less rich in butter, eggs, or flour than any of the former described, as making more effect in the oven, it become hollow within, and is filled with creams or sweetmeats, as the following articles direct; sprinkle the dresser with flour, roll out the
choux
of the ordinary thickness, very equally, and three inches in length (use the least flour possible, that they may appear more clear when baked); place them on a baking-sheet, two inches apart, egg them slightly, and put them in an oven somewhat hotter than for the
choux
usually; when they are well dried, which is known by their being firm to the touch, glaze them with sugar through a sieve, and the salamander; take them from the baking-sheet immediately; when they are cold, open that at the side, and fill them with apricot, or peach jam, or currant jelly, close them and dish; the
choux glaces
are thus formed, but made less, and round.

Put into a stewpan a pint of milk and two ounces of fresh butter, make it into a soft paste with flour, dry it for a few minutes, and add two ounces of butter, and a gill of milk; dry it again; change the stewpan, and add two eggs and two ounces of pounded sugar; when well blended, add two more eggs, two spoonsful of whipt cream, and a grain of salt (the paste must not be softer than usual); arrange these
choux
with a spoon, in lengths of three inches; when they are egged, mask them with sugar in grains, and bake them in a moderate oven; serve them of a fine colour: they may be flavoured with citron, orange, or lemon, by rasping the half of the skin of either on sugar, and weighing it as part of the two ounces used in the preparation.