The Green Beauty Guide: Your Essential Resource to Organic and Natural Skin Care, Hair Care, Makeup, and Fragrances (13 page)

Your olfactory response is another good tool in choosing the most suitable product. If the cosmetic product smells bad to you for no obvious reason, then there’s a chance you will develop an irritation to this product.

Some people swear they can train their bodies to accept chemicals they are allergic to. They diligently use the substance for a week or two, no matter how much rash they develop, and slowly the reaction goes away. In the same way, pollen allergy sufferers eat small amounts of local honey in order to prevent spring allergies. I cannot recommend this way of clearing your allergies, because instead of accepting the substance, you may end up with a severe allergic reaction that may require medical assistance.

Don’t be afraid or too lazy to return the cosmetic product that gave you an irritation. This way, you will unclutter your beauty routine as well as indicate to the cosmetic company (in a very remote way) that there is something wrong with their product. If a store refuses to refund, ask for the address of the company’s headquarters or a local rep and mail them the product with an explanation. Most often, you will receive a check and apologies.

Accept a store exchange if a refund isn’t working or you don’t want to bother with returns. Take a substitute for a bothersome product if the store has it in stock, or take any sensitive skin product you can use to calm down the irritation.

Many good stores will accept a return and refund your money with no questions asked. Sometimes you will have to demonstrate visible signs of irritation—pimples, redness—to prove your point. Smaller health food stores are less likely to accept returns, so make sure you ask before you buy a new product. Better online stores accept returns and issue prompt refunds. They usually provide you with a voucher for free shipping. If you buy from eBay, you can only return a product if it is faulty (broken, leaked, contaminated, or past expiration date). Not all sellers are happy to issue refunds, so you may need to open a PayPal dispute or file a Visa chargeback in order to get your money back.

Lesson 8: Choose Sustainable Packaging

Do you really store your cosmetics in the cardboard boxes they came in from the store? Most likely, you don’t. So what happens to all that elegant, pretty packaging: sturdy boxes, tissue paper, leaflets, paper bags, satin ribbons, foam inserts? When we get home, we discard the paper bag (hoping each time that we’ll find a better use for it than shoving it in a recycled paper bin). We open the box and take out the bottle. We ram that pretty box into the little bathroom waste bin that always looks too small to handle all our boxes and empty bottles. We just wasted about four dollars on making a status statement that didn’t impress anyone.

You will probably say, so what can I do? My favorite lotion comes packaged in a neat cardboard box with plastic inserts and tons of leaflets stuffed inside. Maybe they did it for safety, to protect the precious extracts. However, let me ask you this: Do you really think that all these boxes and protective plastic sleeves serve a vital purpose? Do you really believe that without all that protection your newly purchased shampoo/ conditioner duo will smash into goo-soaked plastic pieces while you walk or drive home? Or that a cute little glass jar with a half-ounce of cream is so fragile that it has to be wrapped in layers of stiff paper? Many cosmetic brands do not pack their products in boxes, and their products look just fine and work just as well. Did you know, by the way, that full-size samples of Chanel makeup products come packed in plain kraft paper, stuffed in brown cardboard boxes, and these products still look perfect? The same products are sold in department stores bearing eight times their weight in plastic and bleached cardboard.

I admire Canadian a makeup brand Cargo for creating a lipstick range packed in tubes made of corn and sold in boxes that contain real plant seeds. Take out the product, soak the box in water, and plant it to see a new green living creature emerging in a few days.

Overuse of packaging is something that organic and synthetic skin care brands are equally guilty of. Some better brands, like UK-based REN, are ditching cardboard packaging altogether. Their lotions come in airtight pump recyclable plastic bottles shrink-wrapped in recyclable plastic. I also admire Canadian makeup brand Cargo for creating a lipstick range packed in tubes made of corn and sold in boxes that contain real plant seeds. Take out the product, soak the box in water, and plant it to see a new green living creature emerging in a few days. Very smart and very green. Pangea Organics also infuses their cardboard boxes with flower seeds. Joshua Scott Onysko says that the idea came to him during a “psychedelic journey” in Joshua Tree National Park in California.

While wrapping is basically a matter of vanity that adds weight and importance to an otherwise humble jar or tube, packaging is important to keep cosmetics fresh and stable. Sophisticated, technologically advanced airtight pump-style bottles can eliminate the need for preservatives and stabilizers. Granted, excessive packaging and tons of tissue paper may help make a sale, especially during the holidays, but you will always pay dearly for this moment of consumer glory.

When the time comes to buy a new shampoo, conditioner, or cleanser, ask yourself, would you be proud of yourself if this particular bottle was buried with tons of other plastic bottles somewhere between the Bahamas and the Bermudas? Most likely, you won’t be. That’s why choosing cosmetic packaging made of better plastics, ideally of soya and corn, or at least that’s degradable (that decomposes faster than ordinary plastic) or biodegradable (that can be decomposed even sooner), is important.

“Glass packaging ensures not only a sophisticated, sensual experience, but a healthier planet,” says Suki Kramer of Suki Naturals. “Our packing uses recycled stock, printed with vegetable ink. For shipping, we buy only organic cornstarch peanuts. We receive hundreds of shipments that contain bubble and Styrofoam. Throwing these materials away or ‘recycling’ them, which is a very toxic process, would be wasteful, so we reuse them.”

An average plastic shampoo bottle needs 450 years to degrade in the landfill. It can swim across oceans to be swallowed by an albatross that would die from hunger since this plastic bottle occupies his stomach and doesn’t allow any nutrients to penetrate his body. On the other hand, a bottle made of corn and soya needs thirty to forty days to biodegrade. Even if a beauty-obsessed albatross eats it, all he’d have to digest is some sturdy fiber. After all, fiber is good for digestion.

Lesson 9: Buy Less, Waste Less

The money you spend on skin care is well worth it when you achieve the results you expect. Many wonderful skin care products cost only pennies to make, while others require hefty investments that may or may not pay off. The truth is, you don’t need to spend hundreds of dollars to look good.

“My first advice would be to simplify. There are way too many products available, and the beauty industry encourages you to use way too many products and to spend thousands of dollars on cosmetics,” says green lifestyle expert Debra Lynn Dadd, whose beauty routine consists of two products: handmade soap and natural shampoo. “It’s not what you put on your skin; it’s what you put in your body. People have glowing skin not because they put something on it, but because they glow as human beings.”

As you probably figured out by now, I am not going to tell you which natural or organic brand to use. I wish it could be that simple. There are many factors involved in this decision: your budget, your skin type, your need for convenience, your lifestyle, and your personal opinions about your skin—everything matters. Everyone’s needs are unique, and it’s up to you to prioritize your wishes in order to make smart beauty buys.

So how much do you need to start a reasonable natural skin care regimen? This can range from $20 (a basic system of cleanser/toner/ moisturizer) up to $500, if you aim for more expensive organic brands such as Jurlique or CARE by Stella McCartney and include antiaging serums, exfoliating creams, sunscreens, purifying and soothing masks, eye cream, and body and hand cream. Expect your first natural products to last three months. On an ongoing basis, you can expect to pay anywhere from $10 to $100 per product.

Don’t let this scare you off using organic products. Do you really need a beauty product for every body part? Many salespeople and cosmetic “experts” insist that you should never use face creams around the eyes because, first of all, they are not formulated for use around the eyes; second, they are “not ophthalmologist-tested”; and third, skin around the eyes is very different from the skin on your face, so you absolutely must use a different cream, even if basic knowledge of human anatomy tells you otherwise.

Let’s address the ophthalmologist issue first. When a dermatologist, ophthalmologist, or podiatrist tests a product, this usually means that this particular medical professional reviewed the formulation to see if there’s anything in it that can cause problems for the body part he or she is most familiar with. No one will conduct human studies where participants rub the cream into their eyes. Just like face creams, eye creams contain fragrances (even fragrance-free versions contain fragrances that mask or neutralize natural odors of ingredients), preservatives, and potential irritants.

The only reason you may not like using your regular moisturizer under your eyes is because of the texture of your cream. Heavy moisturizers and face oils may creep into the eyes and cause blurred vision and even itchiness, but they won’t make you blind. Another myth is that you must use a separate hand cream. Body moisturizer works just as nicely, and it doesn’t have to be tested by a “handologist” to be used on hands. Today’s organic skin care products all offer similar ingredients at all price levels. The key is not to buy less but more of a good thing. Invest in a few basic pieces: a moisturizer, a good soap, a sunscreen, a natural deodorant, and a shampoo that doubles as a shower gel. You can blend masks yourself from ingredients in your fridge or kitchen cupboard, and you can treat yourself to a luxurious natural fragrance later, as a reward for being extra good and green.

You can blend masks yourself from ingredients in your fridge or kitchen cupboard, and you can treat yourself to a luxurious natural fragrance later, as a reward for being extra good and green.

Unfortunately, not all of the products I will recommend in this book are readily available in your local drugstore or supermarket. While big natural food chain stores, such as Whole Foods Markets, offer a nice selection of organic and natural beauty brands, local health food stores prefer to rely on time-tested Burt’s Bees, JASON, and Weleda. In a busy world, convenience can be a significant factor, which is why many of us ditch the idea of green beauty simply because there are not many products available. Luckily, there are many ways to take existing green products and tailor them to our needs. In Chapter 5, you learn new ways of transforming basic cleansers and dull lotions into exciting potions that wipe the floor with their synthetic counterparts.

Since green skin care products contain close to zero preservatives, it’s important to use them up quickly. You should expect to purchase at least one cleanser, toner, sunscreen, or moisturizer every month or two. If you don’t have time to hit the local Whole Foods Market or there’s no good health food store in your neighborhood, buy your basic beauty products online once a month. If you happen to grab a bargain, keep your beauty possessions in a cool, dark place, ideally in the fridge, but not in the freezer.

For convenience and selection, nothing beats the Internet. Many reputable online stores, such as Sephora and Saffron Rouge, post complete lists of ingredients and allow you to choose your free samples. By ordering samples, you don’t have to invest in products that may not work.

Lesson 10: Develop a Routine and Stick to It

No matter how you mix and match your cleansers, toners, sunscreens, and antiaging serums, stick to a routine. Cleanse your face every morning and evening, boost the effectiveness of your moisturizers by spraying or padding on some toner, and always put on a moisturizer with sunscreen when you leave home. At night, double-cleanse your skin and dab a little lightweight oil or serum to nourish, not suffocate, your skin when it needs oxygen more than ever.

Be consistent in your quest for green beauty. This means that each product should be natural and contain no synthetic dyes, fragrances, preservatives, or detergents. Not ready for a big green leap? Take one step at a time. One natural product won’t mean much of a difference, but it’s a nice start. Switch from a foaming cleanser containing several sulfate-based cleanser detergents to a mild olive oil soap. Replace your alcohol-based toner with witch hazel or rose water and dot a few drops of jojoba oil instead of night cream. As you progress with this book, you’ll become more knowledgeable and informed in the green beauty trade. You’ll be able to compile an easily personalized beauty routine that will perfectly suit your needs. Just keep in mind that several natural products used consistently will produce noticeable results within a few weeks. One product is not a cure-all. Regular use of green beauty products will make a real difference.

Lesson 11: Clear Up Your Act

Before we discuss green beauty products, let’s edit your beauty routine and reevaluate your beauty habits. Take a close look at products you already own. Read the labels. Spot unwanted chemicals. Check expiration dates and get rid of everything that contains one or more toxic ingredients that are listed in the previous chapter.

You don’t have to throw out everything right away. Some “holy grail” beauty products are almost impossible to let go of. Can’t part with that caviar-based moisturizer that is loaded with paraben preservatives? Don’t use it as a hand cream. Your brand-new designer leather bag or butter-soft leather boots can use some fancy massage with posh moisturizer. Just make sure not to treat your suede or soft lambskin bags to oily face creams. You may keep a miracle hair balm if it does wonders for your hair and doesn’t cause back or neck irritation. However, I strongly suggest that you double-check all questionable products that sit on your skin for longer periods, such as toners, moisturizers, and serums. Replace them with nontoxic versions as soon as possible. Synthetic cleansers can be the last to get the boot.