The Green Beauty Guide: Your Essential Resource to Organic and Natural Skin Care, Hair Care, Makeup, and Fragrances (21 page)

Pure green tea extract is available in many health food stores, and green tea is a key component in such upscale skin care brands as Teamine and RéVive, but you can prepare your own potent antioxidant green tea blends by adding pure green tea extract to your sunscreens and moisturizers. It blends well with most toners, moisturizers, and sunscreens, and has reportedly been effective for acne and rosacea. This is my skin active of choice that I usually add to my body sunscreens during the summer.

Honey

Whenever I have a sudden onset of skin rash or a dry patch on my lips, I reach for my tube of pure manuka honey from New Zealand. It makes a wonderful healing facial mask that you can apply as is or mix with your favorite cream to reduce the gluey factor. If you have any sores or chapped patches on your lips, leave on a layer of honey overnight and wake up to the softest, smoothest lips. Since ancient times, honey has been used successfully for treatment of infected wounds because of its antibacterial activity, but modern science has found numerous exciting uses for this golden gift of nature. Honey has proven effective against antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria and fungi. “Antibiotic-susceptible and -resistant isolates of
Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epi-dermidis,
Enterococcus faecium, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aerug-inosa,
Enterobacter cloacae,
and
Klebsiella oxytoca
were killed within 24 hours by honey,” say scientists from the University of Amsterdam, who used honey to treat skin infections (Kwakman et al. 2008). Honey is successfully used as a wound dressing in many hospitals, including neonatal units (Bell 2007), and even in patients with diabetes (Lotfy et al. 2006).

Honey heals thanks to its ability to stimulate cytokine production when inflammation is present, and kills bacteria due to the low presence of naturally occurring hydrogen peroxide. However, to work its magic (and to minimize the risk of bee pollen allergy), honey has to be medical grade, or produced under controlled conditions, without any added flavorings that local honeys are often praised for. Keep in mind that honey is a strong allergen, and before you use it in pure form or in your DIY preparations, perform a patch test first.

Idebenone

This synthetic analogue of coenzyme Q10 is currently the most potent antioxidant known to science. It has powerful antiaging effects, as well as anti-inflammatory and photoprotective properties. Idebenone can prevent damage to the skin’s immune system by ultraviolet radiation and assist in reversing many other effects of lifelong oxidation. It also boosts cellular activity by improving the functioning of mitochondria, which are like cellular electric batteries. Yet, both coenzyme Q10 analogues, ubiquinone and idebenone, are less effective in preventing UV-related skin damage than vitamins C and E (McDaniel et al. 2005; Tournas et al. 2006).

Idebenone can make a highly effective addition to your DIY mixes. It will push your skin into high gear even at the lowest of concentrations, although keep in mind this is not a natural substance, but is an analogue, and it has more irritation potential. So start with less concentrated solutions. Add 1.5 grams to 5 ounces of base product for 1 percent concentration or to 10 ounces for 0.5 percent concentration and mix thoroughly. Make sure your base product is not acidic in any way. Pure idebenone is bright orange in color, so keep the concentration low to avoid staining your clothes and your bed linens.

Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis)

Jojoba seeds contain liquid wax, commonly called jojoba oil, which is chemically closest to the skin’s sebum. Besides its emollient action, jojoba liquid wax has mild anti-inflammatory action, which can be very beneficial in treatment of acne and sunburns (Habashy et al. 2005). This odorless, colorless, and very stable substance is a great moisturizer and carrier oil for natural fragrances and massage oils. In beauty preparations, jojoba liquid wax also acts as a penetration enhancer. In natural hair care, jojoba wax makes a wonderful conditioner for straightened, dyed, or otherwise chemically damaged hair.

Kinetin

This plant hormone promotes cell division. Kinetin, whose chemical name is N(6)-furfuryladenine, exists naturally in the DNA of almost all organisms, including human cells. Vigorously tested since the 1990s, kinetin is a popular cosmetic ingredient that has powerful antiaging effects in human skin cells and other body systems. Recent studies indicate that kinetin may have antitumor activity in animals, and kinetin as 0.1 percent lotion helps restore skin barrier function, which is important in the treatment of rosacea.

Kojic Acid

This natural whitening substance is produced by the fermentation of malted rice with the Japanese fungus
Aspergillus oryzae
. Kojic acid is used in cosmetics to lighten skin since it inhibits melanin production. Kojic acid also has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Studies conducted in 2007 in Japan confirmed that kojic acid does not have tumorpromoting or genotoxic properties, as suspected earlier (Higa et al. 2007).
However, please note that kojic acid is still not recommended for longterm use. There are many other natural and botanical extracts, such as licorice, niacinamide, yeast derivatives, and polyphenols, that can effectively lighten skin tone without potential toxic effects.

Lavender (Lavandula angustifo)lia

This ubiquitous plant is used in green cosmetics as an essential oil and flower infusion. Essential oil of lavender has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. Lavender oil is traditionally used as an acne remedy, especially when diluted with rose water or witch hazel. An infusion of lavender is claimed to repel insects, as well as soothe and heal insect bites. In aromatherapy, lavender is used to calm and promote natural sleep. However,
these wonderful qualities come with a price: studies in vitro have shown that lavender oil mimics estrogens in the body and has antiandrogenic activities. There has been a report that three teenage boys developed gynecomastia (breast tissue growth), which coincided with the topical application of products that contained lavender and tea tree oils (Henley
et al. 2007). In another disturbing report from Japan, medical researchers from the School of Dentistry at Meikai University, Saitama, found that essential oils of lavender and rosemary enhanced free radical damage and
decreased the stress hormone, cortisol, which protects the body from oxidative stress (Atsumi, Tonosaki et al. 2007). Until science knows more, it may be advisable to avoid using sunscreen products heavily scented
with lavender and avoid aromatherapy with lavender oil during pregnancy and breast-feeding.

L-Carnitine

This amino acid, commonly contained in energy drinks and weightloss supplements, was recently found to promote hair growth. Scientists of the University of Hamburg have discovered that L-carnitine stimulates hair growth by increasing the energy supply to the hair matrix and can be used to treat alopecia and other forms of hair loss (Foitzik et al. 2007).

Lemon (Citrus limon)

Lemon juice and lemon essential oils have many uses in natural beauty. Lemon juice is a natural astringent and may lighten skin when applied topically. Lemon oil, rich in terpenes, is a well-known antibacterial and insectrepelling agent. It is frequently used in aluminum-free deodorants for its ability to inhibit the growth of odor-causing bacteria. Lemon juice can work as a mild hair bleach that yields very natural results: to lighten your hair with sun-bleached highlights, simply spread some lemon juice over your dry hair in streaks before you step outside during summertime. Lemon juice has a certain stickiness in it, so you can easily use it as a natural, nutritious hair gel. Don’t use the hair bleaching with lemon as an excuse for baking under the midday sun: a mineral sunscreen is still a must!

Licorice
(Glycyrrhiza glabra)

No, I am not advising you to rub your face with those yummy gummy sweets. Licorice has much more to offer than pleasing our taste buds. Licorice root has been used in Europe since the ancient Greek era, and modern science offers new uses for this delicious plant extract. A new flavonoid isolated from licorice root, licochalcone A, is known to have anti-inflammatory and potentially anticarcinogenic effects on animals, while glycyrrhizin, the main chemical found in licorice, may offer protection from the damage induced by UVB radiation. Licorice gel has been traditionally used in herbal medicine for dermatitis, eczema, pruritus, and cysts. In green beauty, licorice is used as a skin-whitening agent and shows promise in the treatment of hyperpigmentation.

Linoleic Acid

This omega-6 essential fatty acid influences skin physiology on a molecular level, improving eicosanoid production, membrane fluidity, and cell signaling. This polyunsaturated fatty acid is an excellent emollient and emulsifier that helps in the treatment of acne, psoriasis, and sun-damaged skin. Linoleic acid also speeds up wound healing. Recent studies demonstrated that this nonirritating acid is also a natural penetration enhancer and can be used in cosmetics instead of propylene glycol. Last, and certainly not least, linoleic acid can help you stay younger for longer. “Higher intakes of vitamin C and linoleic acid and lower intakes of fats and carbohydrates are associated with better skin-aging appearance,” concluded British scientists as they performed research for Unilever in 2007. According to them, higher intake of linoleic acid, naturally found in flaxseeds, evening primrose, pumpkin and mustard seeds, wheatgerm, spirulina, and green leafy vegetables, may reduce dryness and atrophy of aging skin (Cosgrove et al. 2007).

Lycopene

One of the most potent carotenoid antioxidants, bright red lycopene is found primarily in tomatoes, watermelon, papaya, and red bell peppers. Lycopene is the most powerful destroyer of singlet oxygen, which is produced during UV exposure and is the primary cause of skin aging. Lycopene offers 100 times better protection from singlet oxygen than vitamin E. Lycopene is sold in health food stores and online. You can add powdered lycopene to your skin care preparations, but beware: it can instantly turn any cream or lotion bright pink!

Milk

Cow and goat milk are rich in saturated fat, protein, and calcium, as well as a host of vitamins. The green cosmetic industry uses whole milk as an emollient due to its high fat and protein content, and milk acid, also known as lactic acid, for its mild exfoliating properties. Yogurt, kefir, and sour cream make excellent, quick, and nourishing skin exfoliating masks.

Myrrh
(Commiphora myrrha)

The sap of myrrh is used frequently as an antiseptic in natural mouthwashes, gargles, and toothpastes for the prevention and treatment of gum disease. Myrrh is currently used in healing balms to treat abrasions and minor skin irritations, and it has proven effective as an ingredient of healing balms for chronic wounds, alongside honey (Lofty et al. 2006).

N-Acetyl Glucosamine

A major component of hyaluronic acid, glucosamine is making news in natural cosmetics due to several beneficial effects on the skin. Glu-cosamine works as an anti-inflammatory substance that triggers synthesis of hyaluronic acid in skin, accelerates wound healing, improves skin hydration, and decreases wrinkles. It also safely lightens skin tone by inhibiting melanin production, which makes it a godsend for people with hyperpigmentation, age spots, and uneven melanin distribution.

Olive
(Olea europaea)

Olive leaf extract is rich in hydroxytyrosol, one of nature’s most powerful antioxidants, which strengthens the skin’s immune system and protects it from the oxidation effects of UV radiation and tobacco smoke. Plain olive oil is a traditional skin emollient, while squalene, which is derived from olive oil, is an excellent natural moisturizer that quickly penetrates the skin, does not leave a greasy film, and blends well with active ingredients.

Orange (Sweet)
(Citrus sinensis)

Petals of the orange blossom are used to prepare orange water, a natural skin refresher rich in vitamins and volatile oils that has mild antiseptic action. Orange essential oil is rich in flavonoids, rutin, beta-carotene, and aromatic terpene d-limonene, which is classified as toxic or very toxic in several countries. It’s inadvisable to use pure orange oil in cosmetic products.

Peppermint
(Mentha piperita)

This aromatic herb is rich in manganese, vitamin C, and vitamin A, and contains trace amounts of iron, calcium, folate, potassium, tryptophan, magnesium, omega-3 fatty acids, riboflavin, and copper. Recent studies discovered antioxidants and free radical scavenging activities in peppermint leaf extract, while peppermint essential oil has been proven effective against the herpes simplex virus, even against acyclovir-resistant strains. Peppermint oil can be irritating, but toxicity reports found peppermint oil and extracts safe for use in cosmetics.

Pomegranate
(Punica granatum)

Antioxidant-rich pomegranate fruit is one of the newest kids on the antiaging block. Pomegranate bursts with anthocyanin and hydrolyzable tannin, which explains its cancer-prevention abilities. Studies have shown that pomegranate extract, both taken internally and applied topically, can greatly reduce photoaging and prevent formation of UV-induced skin cancer. Pomegranate seed oil, when used in a 5 percent concentration, also significantly decreased skin tumor incidence in animals, which makes it a very promising, safe, and effective natural agent against skin cancer. Pomegranate seed and fruit extract are used in many green beauty lines, particularly in Juice Beauty organic moisturizers, and you can add this valuable ingredient to your own lotions and potions.

Propolis

Along with beeswax, bees use propolis to build their hives. In natural skin care, propolis is used to relieve skin inflammations, ulcers, superficial burns, and scalds. It has shown local antibiotic and antifungal properties, and there is some evidence that propolis may actively protect against caries and other forms of oral disease. Propolis is sold in most health food stores and can be applied topically or added to skin care preparations and mouthwashes. Propolis can also be used as a natural preservative in green beauty products.