The Language of Food: A Linguist Reads the Menu (50 page)

cheese:

macaroni and, 143

in pastries, 135–36

saying (when taking photos), 169

Cheetos, 107

Chekyns upon soppes, recipe for, 175

Cheung Hing, 92

chicken, red rice wine recipe for, 52

Child, Julia, 31

Chile, culinary contributions from, 35–36, 48, 62

chile sauces, 79–80

China:

ancient languages of, 50

cooking techniques in, 183

culinary contributions from, 1–2, 3–4, 35, 49–63, 77, 90, 116, 121, 130, 148, 157, 159, 177, 182, 185, 195–96

economic dominance by, 61–63

gunpowder developed in, 151

lack of dessert in, 179–80, 183

languages of, 54–55, 97–98, 195

toasting traditions of, 65, 74

in trade, 38, 40, 54, 56–57, 61–62, 135

Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival, 188

Chinese New Year Parade, 107, 116

Chinese pot still, 56

chocolate, 167, 169

as marketed to women, 103

in
mole poblano
, 81–83

Christians, Christianity, 132

culinary influence of, 42–43, 45–46, 48, 67, 82, 125, 135, 185

Christmas:

carolling at, 68

feasts, 35, 88, 177

Church of the Martorana,
132

cider, 68

linguistic roots of, 66, 74–76

cis-3-hexen 1-ol, 98

citric acid, 157, 182

citrus, 43–44, 57

Civil War, U.S., 60, 139

Clash!
(Markus and Conner), 116

Cliff House, 30

cocktails, 2, 57, 65, 77, 155

Cocoanut Cake, Dickinson’s recipe for, 139

coconuts, 139–41, 142, 143, 185

Cod
(Kurlansky), 188

coffee, 21

cola, as term, 157

cold packs, 151

cole slaw, 124

Colquhoun, Anna, 48

Columbian exchange, 81, 83

Columbus, Christopher, 83

comfits
, 171–72

comparison, language of, 112

Compleat Housewife, The: or, Accomplished Gentlewoman’s Companion
(E. Smith), 26,
27

Complete System of Cookery, A
(Verral), 26

computational linguistics, 93–106

computers, linguistic tools of, 4, 13–14

Confessions of an Advertising Man
(Ogilvy), 115

Conner, Alana, 116

Consider the Fork
(Wilson), 128

consonants, in sound symbolism, 167–68, 170

continuant sounds, 167

conventionalism, 159–60

cookbooks, 25, 26, 39, 40–41, 47, 59, 89, 120, 123, 125, 131, 132, 136, 137, 142, 146, 194

first American, 89, 147

first American Jewish, 140–41

first English language, 70, 174

world’s oldest, 40, 122,
122
, 173

see also specific titles

Coriolanus
(Shakespeare), 121

corned beef, 127

Cortes, Hernán, 79

cost:

drug metaphor and, 101–2

in real vs. fake substitutes, 18–20

as reflected in menu language, 5, 7–20, 21

sexual metaphor and, 100–101

and short vs. long words, 13–14

and vague vs. specific terms, 15–17

Costello, Elvis, 107

courses:

order of, 3–4, 5, 21–34,
27
, 171–80

see also specific courses

Cowen, Tyler, 10

crackers, sound symbolism in names of,
163
, 164, 167

craft authenticity, 111

Cratylus
(Plato), 160

Croatia:

culinary contributions from, 35

toasting traditions of, 65, 70

Ctesiphon, Persia, 36–38

cuisine:

culture and, 2, 4, 6, 184

food pairing variations in, 182–83

restaurant status and, 7–20

Cuisine and Empire
(Laudan), 143

Cuisinier François, Le (The French Cook)
(La Varenne), 25, 42, 137–38, 146

cultural blending, foods borrowed through, 2, 4, 5, 43–45, 47–48, 79, 81–83, 88–89, 91, 130–31, 142–43, 152, 184–85, 187–89

cultural omnivorousness, 33–34, 192

cupcakes, 102, 205

custard pies, 89–90

Dalby, Andrew, 172

Datini, Francesco, 134

David, Elizabeth, 145

Davidson, Alan, 22

Dawe, Philip,
142

Day of the Dead, 116

De Agricultura
(Cato), 124

Decameron
(Boccaccio), 136

Della Porta, Giambattista, 154

Democracy in America
(Tocqueville), 92

Desfontaines, Pierre, 141

de Sousa, Hilario, 98

dessert:

craving for, 102

etymology of term, 171, 176, 179

history of, 171–85

in music and songs, 103

pastries, 133–36, 140

sexual association of, 102–4

Thanksgiving, 88–90

dessert course, at end of meal, 3–4, 5, 21, 30, 171–78

Diana, Princess, death of, 99

Dianda’s Italian American Pastry, 130

Diccionario de la Lengua Castellana
, 44

Diccionario de la Lengua Española
, 36, 44

Dickens, Charles, 47

Dickinson, Emily, 139,
140

dietary restrictions:

Christian, 42, 135, 185

Jewish, 140

Muslim, 76

differentiation, language of, 112–13

dim sum
, 90, 92, 116

dinde
, 78, 86

dinner, as term, 70

distilling, of spirits, 56–57, 62, 65, 75–76,
75

Distinction
(Bourdieu), 113

dragées
, 171–72

Drake, Francis, 62

drink hael
, 71

drugs:

and guilt, 102

as metaphor for foods, 94, 101–2, 110, 112, 118

Dubner, Stephen, 16

Dunlop, Fuschia, 97

durum wheat, 134–35

Dutch culinary contributions, 123–24

Dutch East Indies Company, 62–63

Earle, Steve, 107

Easter, 130

East India Company, 57

East-West cultural sharing, 2, 4, 45, 76, 81, 83

EATymology, 4

Eckert, Penny, 165

economics:

linguistics and, 4–5, 11, 101

and trade, 61–63

Economist Gets Lunch, An
(Cowen), 10

Ecuador, 48

effervescence, 156–57, 167

egg tarts (
daan tat
), 90

Egypt, 40–41, 148, 149, 188

endosperm, 119, 121

endothermic reactions, 151, 154

England:

in Asian trade, 56–57, 59, 61–62

culinary contributions from, 25–26, 28, 48, 49, 60–61, 69, 75, 87–88, 89, 118–19, 122, 126, 136, 142, 147, 154, 156, 172, 174, 176, 182

imperialism of, 63

entrée course:

French vs. U.S. use of term, 21–25

linguistic history of, 21–34, 130, 143, 178

entrée de table
, 24

entremets
, 25

escabeche
, 3, 36, 43–45, 48, 49, 159

linguistic evolution of, 42, 43, 44

Escoffier, Auguste, 30–31, 115, 125, 176–77

Essay Concerning Human Understanding, An
(Locke), 160

Ethiopia, 79, 85

evil eye, 74

evolution:

negative differentiation in, 100

in origin of smiles, 169

of language, 170

exaggeration, 94–95

exogenous factors, 15

Fabrique de Macarons Blanchez bakery, 138

Falstaff, 66

fast food, 49

fat, 102, 176

chicken, 182, 184

feitoria
, 84

fermentation, 1–2, 50, 52, 55, 62, 73, 77

Fernald, Anne, 165

Fernet Branca, 65

fireworks, 144, 151

fish:

fried, 42, 43–48, 123

Jewish recipes for, 46–48

salted, 47, 127–28

in
sikb
j
, 40–42, 189

fish and chips, 2–3, 49, 185

culinary roots of, 36, 48

fish course, 25, 28

Fisher, MFK, 179, 184

fish sauce, fermented, 1–2, 50–54, 127, 185, 195