The Lost Explorer (28 page)

Millikan, Clare Mallory (daughter), 12-15, 52, 65, 68, 90-91, 177, 179

Millikan, George, 14

Millikan, Glenn, 13

Millikan, Rick, 12-15, 68-69

Millikan, Robert, 13

Miner’s Track, 53

monsoons, 24, 27, 75, 76, 77, 80, 81, 84, 89, 127, 169

Morning Post
(Calcutta), 75, 177

Morshead, H. T., 80, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89

“Mountaineer as Artist, The” (Mallory), 49-50

mountaineering:

British conservativism in, 83

Eastern Europe and, 105

empathy and, 103

media portrayal of, 61-62

old vs. modern gear and clothing for, 21, 47-48, 72, 84-85, 123, 164-65

specialization in, 98

varied responses to emergencies in, 95

mountain peaks, world’s highest, 40

MountainZone, 29, 55, 57, 58, 60, 70, 95, 106, 162

Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance, 1921
, 65, 76, 82

Mummery, Alfred, 80

Mungo Park
, 59

Munter hitch, 104

MÜrren, 113

Nanga Parbat, 40, 80

National Geographic Adventure
, 15

NATO, 66

natural catchment basins, 32-33

Nature Conservancy, 103

Nepal, 17, 30, 70, 77, 84, 102

Nesthorn, 47-48, 119, 165, 168, 172

New Hampshire, 12

Newsweek
, 62, 162

New York State, 12

nieves penitentes
, 77

Nobel Prize, 13

Noel, John, 23, 109, 110, 111, 130, 134, 176

North Face equipment company, 96, 98, 102

North Pole, 28

Norton, E. F. “Teddy”:

on 1922 Everest expedition, 83, 87, 88, 89

on 1924 Everest expedition, 24, 36, 39, 50, 65, 71-72, 108-9, 112, 116, 118, 119, 120, 121, 123-28, 134, 150, 168, 176, 178

Norton, Jake, 20, 22, 30, 34, 35, 37, 56, 58, 60, 61, 65, 71, 95-96, 104, 135, 140, 141-42, 143, 145, 147, 148, 158, 159, 160, 163

NOVA
, 29, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 63, 64, 135, 146

nude bathing, 44

Observer
(London), 64

Odell, Noel, 23, 25-26, 36, 39-40, 50, 65-66, 72, 109, 112, 113, 117, 118, 119-20, 122, 123, 127, 128, 129, 130-33, 138, 144, 150, 166, 167, 170, 171, 176, 178

“old English dead” body, 26-27, 28, 29, 38, 72, 151, 173

On High Hills
(Young), 47

“Oriental inertia,” 117

Oxford University, 11, 24, 43, 112, 114

oxygen, bottled, 27, 36, 94, 110, 121, 122, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 135, 138, 146, 174-75

Anker’s avoidance of, 31, 143, 148, 156, 158

benefits of use of, 24, 88, 89, 93

discarded canisters for, 31, 56, 143, 156

flow rates of, 144-45, 157, 159

Irvine’s mechanical adjustments made on apparatus for, 24-25, 26, 113, 114-15, 170

Mallory’s initial skepticism toward, 24, 84

Messner’s ascents without, 33, 126

modern improvements in, 166

oxygen deprivation, 20, 31, 32, 85, 86, 125, 156, 157, 158, 170-71

Pakistan, 98

Paterno, Joe, 99

Pawlowski, Ryszard, 162

PBS, 55, 56

Pemba (Sherpa), 161

Penn State University, 99

pitons, 165

Plato, 43

Poland, 105

Politz, Andy, 22, 30, 31, 33, 34, 37, 56, 60, 62, 95-96, 104, 135-40

Pollard, Thom, 54-55, 105, 135, 136, 138-40, 172

porters, 23, 80, 81, 84, 110, 116, 124, 127, 129, 132, 176

1924 expedition’s problems involving, 116-18, 119-21, 122

“Tigers,” 121, 123

Western climbers’ attitudes toward, 70-71, 77, 78-79
see also
Sherpas

Potterfield, Peter, 57

Presidential Range, 12

Primus stoves, 124

Prometheus Unbound
(Shelley), 112

Psalm 103, 37, 140

puja
ceremonies, 70-71, 100, 111, 117, 156

Pumori, 140

Pye, David, 43, 48, 51, 52, 53, 82

Queen Victoria
(Strachey), 75-76

Raeburn, Harold, 74, 75, 79

Rainier, Mount, 29, 57, 100, 142

Revelation Mountains, 14

Rheinberger, Michael, 146-47, 155, 157

Richards, Tap, 22, 30, 34, 35, 37, 58, 60, 61, 65, 71, 95-96, 104, 135, 140, 141-42, 143, 145, 147, 148, 158, 159, 160, 163

RMI (Rainier Mountaineering, Incorporated), 57, 58

Roberts, David:

on Ethiopian expedition, 59

and plan of book, 16

Robertson, David, 41, 49, 53, 62-69, 177

Robson, Mount, 97

Rocky Mountains, 97

Rongbuk Glacier, 20, 28, 76-77, 78, 116, 152, 169

Rongbuk Monastery, 69, 70, 71, 73, 111, 117, 156

rope, 139

old vs. modern, 21, 47-48, 72, 165
see also
fixed ropes

Rosa, Monte, 41

Rowell, Galen, 98-99

rowing, 112, 114

Royal Geographical Society, 78, 178

Russia, 105

St. Paul’s Cathedral, 70, 178

Salkeld, Audrey, 27, 29, 42, 64, 87

Salt Lake City, Utah, 98, 99

Sanders, Cottie (Ann Bridge), 42, 45-46, 48

Santa Rosa, Calif., 65

Scott, Robert Falcon, 67, 177

Scott, Shellene, 67

Seattle, Wash., 29, 55, 60, 61

separation, as climbing error, 94-95

Seven Summits, 99

Shaw, George Bernard, 75

Shaw, Seth, 100-101

Shawangunk Mountains, 12

Shekar Dzong, 108

Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 112

Sherpas, 58, 71, 72, 84, 90, 95, 103, 105, 118, 119, 124, 128, 129, 130, 132, 140, 141, 142, 143, 147-48, 161, 162, 167

deaths of, in 1922 avalanche, 90, 110-11, 178
see also
porters

Shisha Pangma, 57

Shrewsbury public school, 112

Simonenko, Valentyn, 93

Simonson, Eric “Simo,” 31, 54, 55, 56, 57, 60, 64-65, 66, 68, 69, 74, 78, 86, 95, 105, 135, 138, 142, 143, 153, 154, 155, 158, 159, 163

background of, 57-58

as guide, 29, 57

leadership style of, 58

1999 Everest expedition team assembled by, 29

previous Everest expeditions of, 29, 30, 58, 96, 138, 143, 146

sirdars, 79, 140

skiing, 113

Slovenia, 105

Smythe, Frank, 72

snow blindness, 36, 118, 125, 127-28, 147

Snowdon, Mount, 52

Sobek, 59

Somervell, Howard, 178

on 1922 Everest expedition, 83, 87, 89, 90

on 1924 Everest expedition, 24, 108-9, 112, 116, 118, 120, 121, 123-27, 133-34, 164, 176

South Pole, 67, 177

Spirit of Man, The
(Bridges), 112

Spitsbergen, 24, 109

“Stella” letter, 67-69

Stern
, 63, 162

Stiletto Needle, 12

Stoppers, 150

Story of Everest, The
(Noel), 176

Strachey, James, 44, 45

Strachey, Lytton, 44-45, 75-76

Strang-Watkins Challenge Cup, 113

Strutt, Edward, 83

Stump, Terrance “Mugs,” 99-100, 103

Switzerland, 84, 113

Symposium
(Plato), 43

Tacoma, Wash., 163

Taos, N. Mex., 142

Tasker, Joe, 39

Telluride, Colo., 97

Tennessee, 13

Tenzing Norgay, 12, 72, 77, 175

Terzeul, Vladislav “Slava,” 54, 93-95

“Third Pole,” 74, 174

Tibet, 17, 26, 30, 58, 62, 66, 77, 103, 108, 111, 114, 150, 174

Tibetan language, 78, 79, 111, 120, 127

Tigers, 121, 123

Time
, 62

Times
(London), 64, 75

Torre Egger, 98

trekkers, 58, 67

Trisul, 83

Tyndale, Harry, 46

Ukraine, 93, 105, 106

United States, Mallory’s lecture tour in, 92, 108

Unna cookers, 124, 129, 167

Unsworth, Walt, 45, 113

Utah, University of, 97-98

Venice, 52

Victoria, Queen of England, 177

Vinson, Mount, 57, 146

Waddington, Mount, 12

Wales, 41-42, 44, 45, 50, 52, 53, 153, 168, 180

Wang Hongbao, 26-27, 28, 29, 32, 38, 72, 151, 173

War Office, British, 112-13

Washington State Historical

Museum, 68, 163

Western Cwm, 77

Wheeler, Edward, 81-82

Whetu, Mark, 147, 155, 157

White Island, 29

Whittaker, Lou, 57

Wickersham Wall, Mount McKinley, 13

Wilcox party, 14

Winchester public school, 40-41

wind, climbers’ strength drained by, 94

World War I, 45, 49, 51-52

“yellow brick road,” 156

Yosemite National Park, 98, 99, 153

Young, Geoffrey Winthrop, 46-47, 48, 49, 50, 52, 53, 82, 90, 91, 119, 165, 168, 172, 178-79, 180

Young Climber’s Grant, 97

Younghusband, Sir Francis, 176, 178

Zangrilli, Fabrizio, 60