The Naked Pint (44 page)

 

Add the mussels to the chorizo mixture and warm through on medium-high heat for 1 to 3 minutes. Stir in the parsley leaves, and allow to wilt slightly. Divide the vegetable-mussel mixture among four large bowls. Froth the reserved broth with an immersion blender and spoon several tablespoons of the liquid over the vegetables. Finally, place the fish atop the broth and vegetables in the bowls and serve.

Serves 4

B
efore Evan Funke was a James Beard semifinalist in 2009 for Ris- ing Star Chef of the Year, he was mastering his technique in one of L.A.’s toughest kitchens, Spago Beverly Hills. Evan has worked with some of the world’s greatest chefs, including Alain Ducasse, Thomas Keller, Eric Ripert, Mario Batali, Charlie Trotter, Nobu Matsuhisa, and Wolfgang Puck. Evan left Spago in 2006 to teach at Le Cordon Bleu in Pasadena, and in 2007 he took a life-changing three-month apprenticeship under master pasta maker Alessandra Spisni in Bologna, Italy. At La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese, Evan mastered the techniques of pasta
fatto a mano
(handmade pasta), and upon returning from Italy, he started as executive chef at the market-fresh Santa Monica restaurant Rustic Canyon Wine Bar and Seasonal Kitchen.

It was at Rustic Canyon that we met Evan and were happy to learn that one of his many talents was his taste for great beer! We quickly planned several beer dinners, pairing Evan’s wonderfully thoughtful food with delicious beers from around the world. When we introduced Evan to the Reissdorf Kölsch, he was hooked. Not only did his family have roots in Cologne, Germany (where the beer style originated), but he was inspired to make an amazing and delicate
fatto a mano
rabbit dish. Enjoy.

Clean the mushrooms with a damp towel, wiping any dirt off of the cap. With a paring knife, carefully scrape the shaft of the mushrooms to clean them of any dirt or blemishes. Cut in half and set aside.

Open the beer (no one will mind if you take a swig).

 

Season the rabbit with salt and pepper and dredge lightly in flour on all sides.

 

In a large heavy-bottom pot, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Once the butter is lightly browned, add the rabbit and cook on each side for 2 to 3 minutes, until golden-brown delicious. Remove the rabbit and set aside. Discard the fat.

 

Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in the same pot. Add the leeks, carrots, shallots, onion, fennel, and celery, and allow to caramelize lightly over medium heat, 5 to 7 minutes. When the vegetables have some color, add the beer (saving one last splash) and the chicken stock. Add the marjoram, and adjust the seasoning of the broth with salt and pepper to taste. Return the rabbit to the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to very low, and cook for about 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender to the touch.

 

When the rabbit is tender, remove the meat and set aside on a serving platter; cover with foil to keep warm. Add the mushrooms and ramps to the pot along with the last splash of fresh beer. Simmer for 15 minutes, until the liquid is reduced and ramps are tender. Then spoon over rabbit and serve.

Serves 4

T
he farmers’ market rocks!” is Samir Mohajer’s credo. The tattooed, Iranian-born chef grew up in Santa Monica around some of the best farmers’ markets in the country. At an early age, he gained an appreciation for fresh, locally grown, seasonal food from shopping with his grandfather, and the cooking bug bit. In 1999, Samir graduated from Le Cordon Bleu and started pursuing his dream with a stint at the salad station at the locally renowned Axe restaurant in Venice, California. There he quickly worked his way up to chef de cuisine before heading on to the Little Door in Holly wood, making a name for himself as sous chef. In 2007, he became the executive chef at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica, opening the restaurant to stellar reviews.

Samir is now the chef/owner of the Cabbage Patch in Beverly Hills. He concentrates on natural beef, wild-caught fish, sustainable methods, and locally grown organic produce—purchased straight from the farmers’ market, of course. One of the first beer dinners we hosted featured this amazing recipe for beer-braised short ribs with mushrooms and polenta. It’s a fantastic recipe that will stir your taste buds and melt in your mouth.

THE SHORT RIBS

 

Preheat oven to 350°F. Season the short ribs liberally with salt and pepper. In a large braising pan, bring olive oil to the smoking point on high heat, and sear the short ribs on all sides until browned. Remove the ribs, and add the carrots, celery, onions, and garlic with the sachet of herbs. Sweat over medium heat until slightly caramelized. Add the tomato paste, and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the beer, and return the ribs to the pan. Allow the beer to reduce by half over medium-high heat (15 to 20 minutes). Cover the ribs with chicken stock, and bring to a boil. Cover the pan, and place in the oven to braise for about 3 hours, until the meat begins to fall off the bone and the broth is reduced.

 

 

THE POLENTA

 

In a small stock pot, bring the milk, water, and butter to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to a simmer, and rain in the polenta while whisking rapidly for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn down heat to avoid burning, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the grit is cooked out and the polenta is creamy.

 

THE MUSHROOMS

 

In a sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt equal parts butter and olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Add the shallots and garlic, and sweat until translucent. Add the mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper. Sauté until slightly caramelized.

 

Add the parsley, and remove from heat.

 

To serve, divide the polenta among four plates, then place the short ribs on top, cover with the broth, and top with the mushrooms. Garnish with a sprig of thyme and a bit of shaved parmesan, if you like.

Serves 4

Now the executive chef and owner of Table 8 and 8 oz. Burger Bar, with restaurants in Los Angeles, Miami, and New York City, Govind Armstrong knew what he wanted to do from an early age. Govind was raised in Costa Rica and in Los Angeles, and at age 13 he was already earning his chops working for the famed Wolfgang Puck at the original Spago. He has trained under the likes of Nancy Silverton at Campanile, Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger (of Ciudad and Border Grill fame) at City Restaurant, and Joachim Splichal at Patina and Pinot Hollywood before finally opening up his own highly successful restaurants.

Influenced by his travels around the world, Govind has developed a unique style, becoming one of the country’s brightest culinary stars and a purist in California cuisine. Featured as one of
People
magazine’s 50 Most Beautiful People in 2004, Govind’s widespread media credits include
Bon Appetit
,
Food and Wine
,
Gourmet
,
Wine Spectator
,
O: The Oprah Magazine
,
Iron Chef America
,
The Today Show
,
Top Chef
, and
Fine Living
. Govind’s first cookbook was titled
Small Bites, Big Nights
, which Tyler Florence called “everything you’re looking for in a cookbook.”

We saw Govind’s commitment to quality as well as his sense of good simple understated food when Christina helped develop the beer list for the new 8 oz. Burger Bar on Melrose Avenue in Holly wood. One of the things that we love about Govind is his relaxed spirit and his willingness to bring some fun into the dining experience. He turns classics on their heads and seems to have a reverence for things old school, serving beers like Schlitz and Olympia in the can at his gastropub 8 oz. He and his chef de cuisine, Jacob Wildman, came up with this down-to-earth in style but lofty in flavor beer-can chili.