The Queen's Bed: An Intimate History of Elizabeth's Court (59 page)

12
Platt,
Delight for Ladies
; G. Hartmann,
The True Preserver
(London, 1682).

13
Williams,
Powder and Paint
, pp. 27–8.

14
The Queen’s Closet Opened
(London, 1696), p. 239.

15
In 1578 Lady Mary Sidney gave ‘a pair of perfumed gloves with twenty four small buttons of gold in every of them a small diamond’. New Year Gift roll, 1578. Society of Antiquaries MS 537 printed in Nichols,
Progresses of Queen Elizabeth
, II, p. 72.

16
For the dressing routine of an aristocratic woman of the time see Thomas Tomkis,
Lingua, or The Combat of the Tongues
(London, 1607).

17
It might be that Elizabeth had something akin to drawers later in the reign – there are references to ‘six pairs of double linen hose of fine holland cloth’ made for her in 1587 but it is not clear if they are drawers or linen hose with a seam up the back of the leg. See Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies,
The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing 16th-century dress
(London, 2006), p. 24 and C. Willett and Phillis Cunnington,
The History of Underclothes
(London, 1951), p. 48.

18
BL Egerton MS 2806, fol. 210.

19
See Nichols (ed.),
Progresses of Queen Elizabeth
, II, p. xlii.

20
TNA LC 5/33 fol. 15; Janet Arnold, ‘Sweet England’s Jewels’, in Anna Somers Cocks (ed.),
Princely Magnificence: Court Jewels of the Renaissance 1500–1630
(London, 1980), pp. 31–40.

21
TNA LC 5/33 fol. 194. Warrant dated 10 February 1566/7 for three ‘Burnished’ shoe horns.

22
TNA LC 5/33 fol. 144; TNA LC 5/34 fols 81, 169, 308.

23
TNA LC 5/37 fol. 73.

24
John Clapham,
Elizabeth of England
, eds Evelyn Plummer Read and Conyers Read (Philadelphia, 1951), p. 89.

25
Paul Hentzner’s Travels in England during the Reign of Queen Elizabeth
, trans. Richard Bentley, ed. Horace Walpole (London, 1797), pp. 36–7;
Thomas Platter’s Travels in England, 1599
, pp. 193–5.

26
John Clapham,
Elizabeth of England
, p. 89.

27
See Janet Arnold,
Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d
(Leeds, 1988), pp. 139–40.

28
See for example BL Stowe inventory, fols 31/15 and Folger Inventory fol. 6 [21] printed in Arnold,
Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d
, pp. 263, 340.

29
W. Bailey,
A Briefe Treatise Touching the Preservation of the Eie-sight
(London, 1626), p. 9. See also L. G. H. Horton Smith,
Dr Walter Bailey 1529–1592: Physician to Queen Elizabeth
(St Albans, 1952); William Bullein,
Bulwarke of defence againste all Sicknes, Sornes and Woundes
(London, 1562) and
A newe boke of phisicke
(London, 1599). Andrew Boorde,
A Compendious Regiment or a Dyetary of healthe made in Mountpyllier
(London, 1542) and advises similar. See K. H. Dannenfeldt, ‘Sleep: Theory and Practice in the Late Renaissance’,
The Journal of the History of Medicine and Allied Sciences
, 41, (1986), pp. 415–41.

30
See, for example, Cogan,
The Haven of Health,
pp. 231–9. See also A. R. Ekirch, ‘Sleep We Have Lost: Pre-industrial Slumber in the British Isles’ in
The American Historical Review
(2001), pp. 343–86 at p. 352.

31
Andrew Boorde,
A
Compendious Regiment
, fol. ci, v.

32
BL Harleian MS 6850 fol. 91.

Chapter 5: Womanish Infirmity

  
1
CSP Span
, 1558–67, pp. 18, 38.

  
2
R. A. Vertot and C. Villaret,
Ambassades de Messieurs de Noailles en Angleterre
, 5 vols (Leyden, 1763), III, pp. 86–7.

  
3
See BL Harleian MS 6986, Art. 12 and F. Chamberlin,
The Private Character of Queen Elizabeth
(London, 1922), pp. 41–9.

  
4
22 June 1554, Dr Owen to Bedingfeld papers cited in Chamberlin,
Private Character of Queen Elizabeth
, p. 47.

  
5
See P. Crawford, ‘Attitudes to Menstruation in Seventeenth-Century England’,
Past and
Present
, 91 (1981), pp. 47–73.

  
6
See Sara Mendleson and Patricia Crawford,
Women in Early Modern England 1550–1720
(Oxford, 1998), pp. 20–5.

  
7
William Camden,
Annales: The True and Royall History of the famous Empresse Elizabeth 
… (London, 1625), p. 9.

  
8
Cited in Elizabeth Jenkins,
Elizabeth the Great
(London, 1958), p. 77.

  
9
CSP Span
, 1558–67, p. 63.

10
CSP Ven
, 1558–80, p. 105; R. Bakan, ‘Queen Elizabeth I: a case of testicular feminisation?’,
Medical Hypotheses
, July 17.3 (1985), pp. 277–84.

11
Chamberlin,
Private Character of Queen Elizabeth
, p. 67.

12
J. M. B. C. Kervyn de Lettenhove,
Relations Politiques des Pays-Bas et de L’Angleterre sous le Regne de Philippe II
(Brussels, 1882–90), I, p. 295, trans. in
CSP Span
, 1558–67, p. 3.

13
Victor Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth and Some Foreigners
(London, 1928), p. 94.

14
William Camden,
Annales
, p. 26.

15
T. E. Hartley (ed.),
Proceedings in the Parliaments of the Reign of Elizabeth
I
, 3 vols (Leicester, 1981), I, pp. 44–5.

16
Lettenhove,
Relations Politiques
, I, pp. 398–401, translated in
CSP Span
, 1558–67, pp. 22–3.

17
Quoted in C. Martin and G. Parker,
The Spanish Armada
(London, 1988), p. 281.

18
CSP Span,
1558–67, pp. 35, 40.

19
BL Add. MS 48047, fols 97–135 printed in J. Strype,
The Life of the Learned Sir Thomas Smith
, Appendix (Oxford, 1820), pp. 184–259.

20
See Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth
, pp. 52, 53–4, 57, 88, 113.

21
CSP Span
, 1558–67, pp. 64–78.

22
S. Adams and M. J. Rodriguez-Salgado, ‘The Count of Feria’s Dispatch to Philip II of 14 November 1558’,
Camden Miscellany
, 28, Camden Society, 4th series, vol. 29 (London, 1984), p. 331. For Arundel see BL Royal MS 17 A 19 printed as ‘The Life of Henrye Fitzallen’, ed. J. G. Nichols,
Gentleman’s Magazine
, 103 (1833), pp. 11, 118, 210, 490. This is an anonymous biography written shortly after Arundel’s death in 1580.

23
CSP Span
, 1558–67, p. 19.

24
AGS E 8340/233 fol. 20v. Lettenhove,
Relations Politiques
, I, pp. 273, 279, 566.

Chapter 6: Disreputable Rumours

  
1
The position was third in rank of major Household officers after Lord Steward and Lord Chamberlain. See M. M. Reese,
The Royal Office of the Master of the Horse
(London, 1976).

  
2
Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Fonds Fran
Ç
ais MS 15970, fol. 14.

  
3
W. K. Jordan (ed.),
Chronicle of Edward VI
(London, 1966), pp. 32–3.

  
4
BL Cotton Caligula MS E V, fol. 56r; TNA SP 12/1/5.

  
5
John Bruce,
Correspondence of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leycester: during his Government of the Low Countries, in the years 1585 and 1586
(London, 1844), p. 176.

  
6
CSP Span
, 1558–67, pp. 57–8.

  
7
CSP Ven
, 1558–80, p. 85.

  
8
Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth
, pp. 67–71;
CSP Span,
1558–67, pp. 70–1. See S. Doran, ‘Religion and Politics at the Court of Elizabeth I: The Habsburg Marriage Negotiations of 1559–1567’,
The English Historical Review
104 (1989), pp. 908–26.

  
9
Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth
, p. 78.

10
Ibid., p. 99.

11
‘Inquiries to be made by Mundt’, 2 June 1559,
CSP Foreign,
1558–9, pp. 298, 299–300.

12
CSP Span
, 1558–67, pp. 95–6.

13
Colecciόn de Documentos Inéditos para la Historia de España
, ed. M. F. Navarete (Madrid, 1842–95), xcviii, p. 89.

14
Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth
, p. 115.

15
Ibid., pp. 113–15.

16
Haynes,
Burghley State Papers
, p. 95.

17
Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth
, pp. 113–15.

18
Ibid., p. 120.

19
Ibid., pp. 120–1.

20
Ibid.

21
TNA SP 31/3/24 fol. 111r.

22
TNA SP 12/6/23 fol. 39r.

23
CSP Span
, 1558–67, p. 77.

24
See Michael G. Brennan, Noel J. Kinnamon and Margaret P. Hannay, ‘Robert Sidney, the Dudleys and Queen Elizabeth’, in Carole Levin, Jo Eldridge Carney and Debra Barrett-Graves, eds,
Elizabeth I: Always Her Own Free Woman
(Aldershot, 2003), pp. 20–42.

25
For Mary Sidney’s appointment to the Privy Chamber see TNA LC 2/3/4 fol. 53r; TNA LC 2/4/3/104.

26
CSP Span
, 1558–67, pp. 95–6; BL Add. MS 48023, fol. 352; TNA SP 12/1/1 fol. 5.

27
CSP Span
, 1558–67, pp. 95–6.

28
Ibid., p. 96.

29
Lettenhove,
Relations Politiques
, II, pp. 9–10, 13, 19–22, 28–9; AGS E 812 fol. 105;
CSP Span
, 1558–67, pp. 95–6; Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth
, pp. 123–6.

30
Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth
, p. 125.

31
CSP Span
, 1558–67, p. 104.

32
Ibid.

33
Ibid
.
, pp. 101–2.

34
Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth
, p. 151.

35
CSP Span
, 1558–67, p. 111.

36
Ibid., pp. 104, 115.

37
Ibid., p. 114; Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth
, p. 161.

38
Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth
, p. 161.

39
There is no other identification of Lady Cobham as Mistress of the Robes.
CSP Span
, 1558–67, p. 475.

40
CSP Span
, 1558–67, p. 115.

41
Household Accounts and Disbursement Books of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, 1558–1561, 1584–1586
, ed. S. Adams, Camden Society, 5th series, vol. 6 (Cambridge, 1995), p. 151.

42
Von Klarwill,
Queen Elizabeth
, p. 157.

43
CSP Span,
1558–67, p. 119.

44
An anonymous mid-Tudor chronicle
, BL Add. MS 48023, fol. 352. Lettenhove,
Relations Politiques
, II, pp. 123–4.

Chapter 7: Ruin of the Realm

  
1
P. Forbes (ed.),
A Full View of the Public Transactions in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth
(London, 1740), p. 152.

  
2
CP 152/94 printed in Haynes,
Burghley State Papers
, p. 233; see Malcolm R. Thorp, ‘Catholic Conspiracy in Early Elizabethan Foreign Policy’,
The Sixteenth-Century Journal
, vol. 15, no. 4 (1984), pp. 431–48.

  
3
BL Cotton MS Caligula B X fols 89r–92 as cited in P. Forbes (ed.),
Public Transactions
, p. 391.

  
4
CSP Foreign
, 1559–60, pp. 581–2.

  
5
Haynes,
Burghley State Papers
, I, p. 368.

  
6
C. C. Jones,
Court Fragments
, 2 vols (London, 1828), vol. II, p. 43.

  
7
CSP Span
, 1558–67, pp. 75–6, 83. See Stephen Alford,
The Early Elizabethan Polity: William Cecil and the British Succession Crisis, 1558–1569
(Cambridge, 1998), pp. 53–5; Jane E. A. Dawson, ‘William Cecil and the British Dimension of Early Elizabethan Foreign Policy’,
History
, 74 (1989), pp. 196–216.

  
8
BL Cotton MS Titus B II, fol. 419r;
CSP Span
, 1558–67, p. 133.

  
9
CP 152/127 printed in
HMC Salisbury
, I, p. 257.

10
TNA SP 12/13 fol. 21.

11
TNA SP 12/12/51 fol. 107.

12
CSP Span
, 1558–67, p. 174.

13
L. Howard (ed.),
A Collection of Letters: from the original manuscripts of many princes, great personages and statesmen
(London, 1753), pp. 210–11; S. Adams (ed.),
Household Accounts of Robert Dudley
, pp. 141–2; TNA SP 70/19 fol. 360.

14
The Registers of Christenings, Marriages and Burials in the parish of Allhallows, London Wall, Within the City of London, from the year of our Lord 1559 to 1675
, eds Basil Jupp and Robert Hovenden (London, 1878), p. 5.

15
See D. H. Craig,
Sir John Harington
(Boston, 1985); Jason Scott Warren,
Sir John Harington and the Book As Gift
(Oxford, 2001); Ian Grimble,
The Harington Family
(London, 1957), pp. 116–17.

16
For reference to ‘boyjacke’ see Henry Harington,
Nugae Autiquae: being a miscellaneous collection of papers, written during the reign of Henry VIII, Edward VI, Queen Mary, Elizabeth and King James by Sir John Harington
, 2 vols (London, 1804), II, p. 178.