1
⁄
2
cup chopped green onions
1 cup fresh spinach, washed and roughly chopped
6 large hard-boiled eggs, chopped
- In a large stockpot over medium to medium-high heat, melt
1
⁄
2
cup of the butter. Add turtle meat and brown. Season to taste with kosher salt and pepper. Cook for 20 minutes or until liquid is nearly dry.
- Constantly stirring with a wooden spoon, add onions, celery, garlic, and bell peppers. Then add thyme and oregano, and sauté for around 20–25 minutes. Add beef stock, then bring soup to a boil. Let simmer for 25 minutes. Skim off any fat from the top.
- As stock simmers, make the roux: In a small saucepan, melt remaining 1 cup butter over medium-low heat. Still stirring with a wooden spoon, slowly add flour a few tablespoons at a time. Do not burn. Cook roux until it is pale in color and has a sand-like consistency, about 3–5 minutes. Set aside and let cool until soup is ready — roux should definitely be cool when added to soup.
- Using a whisk, vigorously whisk roux into stock, adding a little at a time to prevent lumping. Simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.
- Add sherry and bring soup to boil. Add hot sauce and Worcestershire sauce, then simmer for another 5 minutes. Skim off any fat or foam that comes to the top. Stir in lemon juice and tomato purée, then let simmer for another 5 minutes. Add green onions, spinach, and eggs, then allow to simmer for an additional 10 minutes and adjust seasoning to taste.
Times Gone By
in the mid to late 1700s, confectioner Samuel Birch was the first to serve turtle soup in London, serving it with lemons, cayenne, and other condiments, with French bread on the side. Turtle soup later became so esteemed — yet so expensive to serve — that dishes such as Mock Turtle Soup (see
Chapter 11
) became a popular option, where a calf’s head and plenty of Madeira was used in lieu of the turtle meat.
Mrs. Patmore’s London Particular
The thick fogs that engulfed London until the mid to late 1950s for which this soup is named would not be unknown to the Crawley family. Matthew, a London native, would especially enjoy this hearty ham and pea soup, as it would remind him of his childhood home.
YIELDS 4–6 SERVINGS
For Ham
1 smoked ham hock, soaked overnight in cold water
1 large onion, peeled and halved
2 celery sticks, chopped
4 peppercorns
1 bay leaf
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 handful parsley
For Soup
1 pound green split peas, soaked overnight
1
⁄
2
cup unsalted butter
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 medium carrot, chopped
6 cups ham stock from above ham
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Leftover boiled ham
- Rinse, then drain, soaked ham hock. Place ham hock, large onion, celery, peppercorns, bay leaf, and thyme in a large saucepan. Cover with water. Bring to a boil, then simmer, partially covered, for 2
1
⁄
2
hours or until tender. Cool.
- Strain ham stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a Tupperware or glass bowl with lid. Reserve the stock, and shred ham into bite-sized pieces. If stock is too spicy, distill with some water.
- Rinse soaked peas until water runs clear.
- In a large saucepan or pot over medium-low heat, melt butter. Sauté the onion until it is soft and translucent. Add carrot, peas, and the stock. Bring soup to a boil, then reduce to a simmer, and skim off any fat floating at the top.
- Simmer until the peas are very soft, about 45 minutes. Purée soup in small batches using an immersion or regular blender. If too thick, add more stock. Return soup to saucepan, add leftover ham, then heat through. Serve in warm bowls, perhaps with chopped celery sprinkled on top.
Etiquette Lessons
Each great house — Downton Abbey included — was expected to throw at least one great garden party a year, preferably in August or September. Invitations were sent by the hostess weeks in advance, with the promise of tennis, croquet, or other amusements. If there was to be dancing at night, it was either done in a tent or under the moonlight on the lawn, perhaps illuminated by Chinese lanterns.
Creamy Russet Leek Soup
This pretty and surprisingly light soup is perfect for the more dainty guests of Downton Abbey who didn’t want to fill up before the main course. It’s easy to imagine Lavinia sipping this soup ever-so-properly, while Mrs. Patmore and the rest of the staff wait eagerly for leftovers.
YIELDS 4–6 SERVINGS
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 large leeks, cut lengthwise, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup water
3 cups vegetable broth
2 pounds Russet potatoes, peeled, and diced into
1
⁄
2
-inch pieces
1 teaspoon marjoram
1
⁄
4
cup fresh parsley, chopped
2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
- In a large saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add leeks, salt, and pepper, mixing well, then cover and let cook over low heat for 15 minutes, checking often. Do not brown leeks.
- Add water, broth, and potatoes. Bring to a low simmer and let cook for 25 minutes. Stir in marjoram, parsley, and thyme, then let cook for another 10 minutes. Finally, add Tabasco sauce and more salt and pepper to taste.
Times Gone By
In Old English the word
spoon
means a chip of wood. In fact, spoons were once nothing more than flat spatulas.
Lady Sybil’s Poached Salmon with Creamy Hollandaise Sauce
The Earl of Grantham confronts Lady Sybil about her interest in feminism and politics one night over an uncomfortable dinner. Even this elegant fish dish cannot distract the rest of the family from the brewing storm of opinions. The spices used in this dish, while adding heat, are nothing compared to the hot tempers seething that night!
YIELDS 2 SERVINGS
4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 (6-ounce) skinless, boneless salmon fillets
2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided use
1
⁄
2
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon hot water
1 cup unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 pinch cayenne pepper
Fresh parsley or chives, chopped, for garnish
- Pour lemon juice and olive oil into a large pan that can easily fit both salmon fillets without much extra room. Add enough water to bring the water up to just below an inch. Season salmon fillets with salt and pepper, and add salmon to pan. Add enough water to cover salmon.
- Heat salmon over medium-high heat until water is hot but not simmering, about 165°F. Poach until salmon is opaque and firm to the touch. Salmon should reach an internal temperature of 140°F.
- In a small saucepan bring a few inches of water to a boil. Lower heat to medium-high, maintaining a gentle boil. In a metal bowl whisk together egg yolks and 1 tablespoon hot water, then place the bowl over, but not touching, the boiling water in the saucepan. Whisk constantly until yolks thicken and turn a light yellow, doubling in volume. Be careful not to scramble the yolks — it is okay to remove bowl from heat every now and then if necessary.
- Once the egg yolks have thickened and doubled in volume, whisk in butter, a piece at a time, until it melts and mixes into the hollandaise sauce. Be sure to wait for each piece of butter to melt before adding the next one. Once all of the butter has been added, remove sauce from heat and whisk in the lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and remaining teaspoon of salt.
- Drain poached salmon and place fillets on individual dinner plates. Cover with hollandaise sauce. Sprinkle with parsley or chives and serve.
Times Gone By