Ugly Beauty (32 page)

11. Ibid., pp. 84–85.

12. Péan,
Vies et morts de Jean Moulin
, p. 176.

13. Interview with Pierre Péan, in Péan,
Vies et morts de Jean Moulin
, pp. 470–71.

14. Ibid.

15. Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

16. Bromberger,
Comment ils ont fait fortune
, p. 92.

17. Péan,
Une jeunesse française
, p. 520.

18. 
Votre Beauté
, January 1946.

19. Ibid.

20. Rubinstein,
My Life for Beauty
, p. 78.

21. Lewis and Wordsworth,
Miss Elizabeth Arden
, 86.

22. 
New York Times
, February 2, 1944.

23. HR to Rosa Hollay, October 1, 1915, and late summer 1916, Bulmer papers.

24. 
New York Times
, February 2, 1944.

25. O’Higgins,
Madame
, pp. 247–50.

Chapter 5: A Takeover and Three Scandals

 1. O’Higgins,
Madame
, pp. 271–75.

 2. Ibid., pp. 280–83.

 3. Ibid., p. 45.

 4. 
New York Times
, April 3, 1965.

 5. Dalle,
L’Aventure L’Oréal
, p. 231.

 6. 
New York Times
, May 19, 1968.

 7. O’Higgins,
Madame
, p. 45.

 8. 
New York Times
, September 29, 1980.

 9. Ibid., October 15, 1988.

10. 
Le Monde
, June 4, 1988.

11. Ibid., December 21, 1991.

12. Bar-Zohar,
Bitter Scent
, p. 8.

13. 
Le Monde
, June 6, 1991.

14. 
Wall Street Journal
, June 7, 1991.

15. 
Le Monde,
June 6, 1991.

16. Bar-Zohar,
Bitter Scent
, p. 37.

17. 
Le Cri du Peuple
, October 14, 1948.

18. Ibid.

19. Corrèze papers at Le Centre de Documentation Juive Contemporaine, Paris.

20. Abellio,
Sol invictus,
282.

21. 
New York Times
, June 20, 1991.

22. 
Lettre à un cousin
, July 27, 1954, quoted in Péan,
Une Jeunesse française
, p. 13.

23. Assouline, quoting Gide’s secretary, Lucien Combelle, in
L’Épuration des intellectuels
, p. 74.

24. Dalle, quoted in
Le Monde
, June 6, 1991.

25. Bar-Zohar,
Bitter Scent
, p. 119.

26. 
Le Monde
, June 6, 1991.

27. Conversation with the author, June 2008.

28. 
New York Times
, June 27, 1991.

29. 
Wall Street Journal
, June 7, 1991.

30. 
L’Élan
, December 13, 1941.

31. 
La
Terre Française
, October 11, 1941.

32. Ibid., December 20, 1941.

33. Ibid., April 12, 1941.

34. Bar-Zohar,
Bitter Scent
, p. 203.

35. This is set out in two letters from “Grainville” (Bettencourt) to “Morland” (Mitterrand), dated August 9 and 11, 1944, published in
Le Monde
, March 9, 1995.

36. Frydman,
L’Affaire Bettencourt
, p. 23, quoting Alain Guérin,
Chronique de la Résistance
, p. 1585.

37. “Grainville” to “Morland,” August 9, 1944, published in
Le Monde
, March 9, 1995.

38. Péan,
Une Jeunesse française
, pp. 439–40.

39. Trano,
Mitterrand, les amis d’abord,
80.

40. Ibid.

41. Ibid.

42. 
Le Monde
, February 12, 2005.

43. Ibid., March 9, 1995.

44. Ibid., February 12, 1995.

45. Ibid., March 9, 1995.

46. Letter, André Bettencourt to Congressman Engel, January 25, 1995, in Frydman,
L’Affaire Bettencourt
, p. 31–32.

47. J.-J. Roy, “Les Deux Justices,”
Les Temps Modernes
33 (June 1948), quoted in Judt,
Past Imperfect
, p. 47. Judt’s discussion of the
épuration
is particularly perceptive.

48. Bromberger,
Comment ils ont fait fortune
, p. 93.

49. Benamou,
Jeune homme, vous ne savez pas de quoi vous parlez
, pp. 62–63.

50. Bar-Zohar,
Bitter Scent
, 173–74.

51. Abescat,
La Saga des Bettencourt
, p. 172.

52. Jouve and Magoudi,
Mitterrand. Portrait total
, p. 163, quoted in Péan,
Une Jeunesse française
, p. 288.

53. Bar-Zohar,
Bitter Scent
, p. 211.

54. Péan,
Une Jeunesse française
, pp. 12–13.

55. 
New York Times
, June 20, 1991, p. D5.

56. Fabius, speaking in 1994, quoted in Benamou,
Jeune homme . . . ,
p. 166.

57. Ibid.

58. Benamou,
Jeune homme . . . ,
p. 195.

59. “The Revolution We Need,”
L’Élan-Jeune Aquitaine
, December 13, 1941.

60. 
Le Monde
, February 12, 1995.

61. Quoted in Trano,
Mitterrand, les amis d’abord
.

62. Testimony at the Cagoule trial,
Le Cri du Peuple
, October 14, 1948.

63. 
Le Monde
, June 20, 1991,

64. 
New York Times
, June 20, 1991.

65. Bar-Zohar,
Bitter Scent
, p. 145.

66. Dalle, testimony to examining magistrate Jean-Pierre Getti, June 19, 1991; quoted in Bar-Zohar,
Bitter Scent
, p. 158.

67. Bar-Zohar,
Bitter Scent
, p. 109.

68. Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

69. Dalle,
L’Aventure L’Oréal
, p. 208.

70. Waitzfelder,
L’Oréal Took My Home
, pp. 180–81.

71. Ibid., pp. 182–83.

72. Ibid., p. 55.

73. Ibid., pp. 204–5.

74. Ibid., pp. 192–93.

75. Ibid., pp. 184–85.

76. Ibid., p. 91.

77. Ibid., pp. 194–97 and 200–3.

78. Abescat,
Le Saga des Bettencourt
, pp. 90–91.

Chapter 6: Consumers or Consumed?

 1. Two editions of
Who Owns Britain?
by Gordon Schaffer and Kevin Cahill, published in 1944 and 2001 respectively; and
Who Owns England?
by Peter Grant, published in 1991.

 2. By Herbert Agar and Allen Tate, first published 1936; by Walter J. Hickel, published 1971; by Edmund Blair Bolles, published 1984; by Harvey M. Jacobs, published 1998.

 3. “Madame Rubinstein, the Little Lady from Krakow,”
Life
, July 21, 1941, pp. 37–45.

 4. 
Times
(London), August 22, 1868, p. 6.

 5. Quoted in Miller, “Shrewd Woman of Business.”

 6. 1 Corinthians 11: 4–16.

 7. Quoted in Woodhead,
War Paint
, p. 153.

 8. 
Daily Mail
, “Half of Women Will Have Cosmetic Surgery,” July 13, 2005.

 9. 
Skin Deep
correspondence, Rutgers University.

10. Christa D’Souza, “My Name Is Christa. I’m an Age-orexic,”
The Observer
, May 13, 2007.

11. 
Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery
, June 2008.

12. Orbach,
Bodies
, p. 85.

13. Gillies and Millard,
The Principles and Art of Plastic Surgery
(London, 1957), p. 395.

14. Nessia Pope, “The Get: Body and Soul; Beauty Map / Rio de Janeiro,”
New York Times
, October 22, 2006.

15. Conversation with the author, October 13, 2009.

16. Diana Appley and Cadie Nicholas, “We’re Addicted to Botox,”
Daily Mail
, September 18, 2006.

17. Laura Potter, “English Patience,”
Observer Magazine
, October 21, 2007.

18. Appley and Nicholas, “We’re Addicted to Botox.”

19. Phillips,
Skin Deep
, pp. 78–79.

20. 
Skin Deep
correspondence, Rutgers University.

21. Paul Harris, “Plastic Surgery in Decline as America Tires of Excess,”
The Observer
, March 21, 2010.

22. The Harley Medical Group, report in
Sky News
, April 11, 2008.

23. John Dunne, “Redundant City Boys Opt for Facelifts,”
The London Paper
, January 26, 2009.

24. D’Souza, “My Name Is Christa.”

25. Warren Sanderson and Sergei Scherbov, “Average Remaining Lifetimes Can Increase as Human Populations Age,”
Nature
435 (June 2005): 811–13.

26. BBC,
Woman’s Hour
, December 8, 2006.

27. Research by Alan Slater and colleagues at the University of Exeter, 2004, reported in
New Scientist
, September 6, 2004.

28. Davis,
Reshaping the Female Body
, p. 147.

29. bell hooks, “Straightening Our Hair,”
Z Magazine
September 1988.

30. Alva Johnston, “Testimonials, C.O.D.,”
Outlook and Independent
March 18, 1931.

31. Ibid.

32. His then wife recounted this to Lindy Woodhead; see Woodhead,
War Paint
, p. 200.

33. The discussion relating to Pascal Dangin derives from Lauren Collins, “Pixel Perfect,”
The New Yorker
, May 12, 2008.

34. Collins, “Pixel Perfect.”

35. Ibid.

36. 
Daily Mail
, September 18, 2006.

37. Http://yeeeah.com/2008/11/04/kate-winslet-massively-photoshopped-in-vanity-fair/.

38. 
Daily Telegraph
, August 3, 2009.

39. Friedan,
The Feminine Mystique
, 1982 edition, pp. 181–83.

40. O’Higgins,
Madame
, p. 29.

41. Ipsos Mori poll, cited in “Absence of Women from Top Boards Is Unacceptable, Says Gordon Brown,”
Guardian
, March 8, 2010.

42. “No Fake Tan to This Story of Success,”
The Independent
, February 19, 2005.

43. 
Guardian
, May 14, 2009.

44. Ibid., February 2, 2010.

Coda : Two Old Ladies

 1. Joshua Levine, “Une Affaire de Famille,”
Forbes
, March 30, 2009.

 2. 
Egoïste
no. 10, 1987. All of Liliane Bettencourt’s remarks on her upbringing and opinions are taken from this interview, the only one she ever gave until the Banier scandal erupted in 2007.

 3. Abescat,
La Saga des Bettencourt
, p. 185.

 4. O’Higgins,
Madame
, p. 65.

 5. “The Bitter Family Battle for the L’Oréal Billion,”
London Evening Standard
, July 20, 2009.

 6. Abescat,
La Saga des Bettencourt
, p. 10.

 7. 
Egoïste
no. 10, 1987.

 8. Liliane Bettencourt, “ ‘Je n’ai plus envie de voir ma fille,’ ”
Journal du Dimanche
, December 21, 2008.

 9. O’Higgins,
Madame
, pp. 26–28.

10. Ibid., p. 269.

11. Ibid., p. 250.

12. Ibid., p. 268.

13. Ibid., p. 290.

14. Liliane Bettencourt, “ ‘Je n’ai plus envie de voir ma fille,’ ”
Journal du Dimanche
, December 21, 2008.

15. Ibid.

16. Michel Guerrin, “Il y a toujours eu de vacarme derrière moi,”
Le Monde
, December 9, 2009.

17. Ibid.

18. Ibid.

19. Ibid.

20. Ibid.

21. Banier,
Le Passé composé
, p. 68.

22. Ibid., p. 66.

23. “La ‘fausse camaraderie’ du dandy-photographe,”
Le
Figaro
, February 13, 2009.

24. Banier on Castaing: www.fmbanier.com/madeleine_castaing_0.

25. Ibid.

26. “La ‘fausse-camaraderie’ du dandy-photographe.”

27. Guerrin, “Il y a toujours eu de vacarme derrière moi.”

28. Ibid.

29. Sworn statement, quoted in “Une Affaire de Famille,”
Forbes
, March 30, 2009.

30. Levine, “Une Affaire de Famille.”

31. Abescat,
La Saga des Bettencourt
, p. 250.

32. “Le sort de L’Oréal suspendu au procès pipole Banier-Bettencourt,”
Canard Enchaîné
, February 24, 2010.

33. Liliane Bettencourt, “ ‘Je n’ai plus envie de voir ma fille.’ ”

34. “La ‘fausse camaraderie’ du dandy-photographe.”

35. “Le sort de L’Oréal suspendu au procès pipole Banier-Bettencourt,”
Canard Enchaîné
, February 24, 2010.

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———.
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———.
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———.
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———.
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Articles

Helena Rubinstein

Sunday Telegraph
February 1962, serialization of HR’s memoir
Just For Luck
:

Feb. 4, pp. 12–13: “The Demons That Still Drive Me.”

Feb. 11, p. 15: “M. Poiret Takes Offence—and Tears My Dress in Strips.”

Feb. 18, p. 14: “Timing, Luck—and £2m. Profit.”

Vogue
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Vogue
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Johnson, Alva. “Testimonials, COD—Some Light on Big Names in Advertising” and “Testimonials, Wholesale,”
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Keiffer, Elaine Brown. “Madame Rubinstein, the Little Lady from Krakow,”
Life
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Victorian Literature and Culture
34 (2006), pp. 311–32.

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Schueller

Egoïste
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Le Monde
, February 1995 interview with Serge Klarsfeld.

Le Matin
, August 27, 1941, interview with Eugène Deloncle.

La Gerbe
, September 25, 1941, interview with Deloncle.

Coiffure de Paris
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Noiville, Florence. “L’Oréal, une histoire au parfum de soufre,”
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Thomas, Martin. “Giraud,”
French History
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Votre Beauté
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Archives

Archives Nationales de France (CARAN): Dossier instruit par la cour de justice du département de la Seine contre Eugène Schueller (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

Fonds Majestic (cote AJ40).

Archives de Paris: Fonds du comité régional interprofessionel d’épuration. Affaire Schueller (cote 901/64/1–282).

Centre de Documentation Juive Contemporaine, Paris.

Curie Archives, Paris: BnF Mss. Archives Joliot-Curie (déposées à l’Institut Curie) NAF 28161

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Skin Deep
correspondence, Consumers’ Research Collection, Special Collections, Rutgers University.