What Einstein Kept Under His Hat: Secrets of Science in the Kitchen (54 page)

Mytilus galloprovincialis,
253

Mytilus troesselus,
253

nacre,
of clamshells, 256

natural, meaning of term, 422–25

neoprene, 406–8

Newton’s Law of Cooling, 19, 412

Newton’s Third Law, 257

nigari,
136

nigiri
sushi, 242

nitric oxide (NO), 285

nitric oxide myoglobin, 283, 285

nitrites

     curing of meat by, 285

     meats cured with, 282–84

     toxicity of, 283

nitrogen fixation, 143

nitrosamines, 283

nitrosylhemochromogen, 285

NO (nitric oxide), 285

no-fat milk, 55

nonclimacteric fruits, 151

nonfat milk, 55

nordihydrocapsaicin, 338

Not-Very-Indian Pudding, 134–35

nucleation sites, 33

odor(s)

     adsorption by activated charcoal, 370–71

     of ammonia, in fish, 347

     essential oils and, 331

     of ground beef, 276

     of hydrogen sulfide, 28

     in oils, removal of, 162

     in refrigerator, 368–71

     of shrimp, 265

oil(s)

     edible and inedible, comparison of, 159–63

     essential.
see
essential oils

     vegetable.
see
olive oil; vegetable oils

     
see also
fat(s);
specific oils

oil in water suspensions, 381

“old-age” browning, of ground meat, 278

oleic acid, in olive oil, 177–78

oleuropein, in olives, 186

oligosaccharides, 204, 206

     
see also
cellulose; starches

olive(s)

     color of, 184–86

     harvesting of, 185

     ripening of, 185

olive oil, 163, 176–80

     acidity of, 177–78

     deterioration of, 180

     extra-light, 179

     extra-virgin, 178–79

     flavor of, 177

     light, 176, 179–80

     pure (100%), 179

     substituting for butter in baking, 184

     virgin, 179

Olorosos, 30

1 percent milk, 55

onions

     browning of, 341

     flavor of, 340–42

     frying, 342

     goldenizing, 341–42

     mild, 128–30

     preventing tears with, 125–28

     red onion-parsley relish, 416

     sweating, 341

oolong tea, 10–11

oranges, fresh orange sponge cake, 88–89

orzo, 222

osiamyl acetate, 425

osmosis, 186–89

osmotic pressure, 189

Osso Buco, 300–301

ovalbumin, in eggs, 100

ovens

     cooking methods of, 403–5

     emissivities of, 396–97, 399

     microwave, empty, danger of operating, 35

     microwave, timing cooking in, 393–95

oven temperature

     additional factors in oven cooking and, 403–5

     determining setting for, 399–402

overrun, in ice cream, 68

oxalic acid

     in rhubarb, 119–20

     in spinach, 123

Oxi Clean, to remove red wine stains, 49–50

oxidation

     meaning of, 49

     of tea leaves, 11

oxidative rancidity, 172, 173–74

OXO potato masher, 207

oxygen, color of ground beef and, 277

oxymyoglobin

     color of ground beef and, 276, 277, 278

     color of tuna and, 243

Pacific Coast razor clams, 256

Pacific Farms, 358

Paella, Oven, Ultimate, 258–60

PAH’s (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons), 323–24

panko,
267–68

paprika, 354–55

parboiled rice, 216

Parrish, Marlene, xvi, xvii, 101, 103, 344, 357, 429

parsley, red onion–parsley relish, 416

parsley family, 327

partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, 167

partial vacuum, 292

pasta, shapes of, 220–22

pasteurization

     of apple juice, 195

     of egg whites, 104–5

     of milk used to produce cheese, 77–78

pasteurized process cheese, 80–81

pasteurized process cheese food, 81

pasteurized process cheese product, 81

pasteurized process cheese spread, 81

Paula Wolfert’s Slow-RoastedLeg of Lamb with Pomegranate Glaze and Red Onion–Parsley Relish, 415–16

PCA’s (polycyclic aromatics), 356

PCB’s (polychlorinated biphenyls), 240

peas

     types of, 209

     in Ultimate Oven Paella, 258–60

pea soup, solidification with refrigeration of, 209–11

pectins, 59, 223

Pedro Ximénez grape, 30

penicillin, 75–76

Penicillium,
75, 76–77

Penicillium camemberti,
76

Penicillium candidum,
77

Penicillium chrysogenum,
76

Penicillium glaucum,
76

Penicillium notatum,
75, 76

Penicillium roqueforti,
77

peppercorns, color of, 333

pericarp, 148, 225

Perna canaliculus,
253–54

Perna veridisis,
253

petroleum, 160

phenol(s), in fruit, 155

phenolase, 375

phenylethylamine, in chocolate, 433

pheophytins, 112

Philadelphia cream cheese, 70

Philadelphia Scrapple, 280

phospholipids, 380

photons, 302

phytochemicals, 109

picual
oil, 180

Pillowcase Sweets, 58–59

pimentón,
354

     in Smoky Garlic Mayonnaise, 384

pimientos,
334

piperene, 333

Piper nigrum,
333

piquancy, 332

pizza stones, 395–97

Placopecten magellanicus,
262

plant(s), nutrients needed by, 124

plantains, 157

Poached Italian Prune Plums, 154

polenta, 227

     with Gorgonzola, 229

     leftover, 229

     slices, broiled, 229

Polenta Two Ways, 228–29

polychlorinated biphenyls (PCB’s), 240

polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH’s), 323–24

polycyclic aromatics (PCA’s), 356

polyglycerol esters, 381

polymerization, of deep-frying oil, 174

polymorphs, 436

polyols, 233–34

polyphenol(s), 8, 433

polyphenol oxidase

     in fruit, 155

     in tea, 11

polysaccharides, 204–5

pomace oil, 179

pomes, 149

ponhaus,
280

pork

     color of, 269–70

     scrapple, 280

     souse, 280–81

porphyrins, 112

portmanteau words, 421

potash, 232

potassium bromate, bleaching of flour with, 217, 218

potassium hydroxide, in dishwasher detergent, 377

potassium nitrate, meats cured with, 282

potassium nitrite, meats cured with, 282–84

potatoes, mashed, 207–9

     Spanish Mashed Potatoes, 118–19

potato mashers, 207, 208

prawns, 265

precipitation, of tannins in tea, 7

precursors, 340

preservatives, 374–75

preserves, strawberry, 190–91

Priestley, Joseph, 406–8

prions, 274

process cheese, 80–81

produce

     washing, 113–16

     
see also
fruit(s); vegetable(s);
specific fruits and vegetables

propane, for gas grills, 319

propionates, as preservatives, 374

propylene glycol esters, 381

propyl gallate, 375

protein(s)

     coagulation of, 271

     cross-bridging of, 271

     cross-linkage of, 135, 136

     denaturation of.
see
protein dena-turation

     marinating meat and, 288–89

     meat as source of, 271

     in milk, bacterial action on, 62

     in muscle tissue, 271

     in soy milk, cross-linkage of, 135, 136

protein denaturation, 104n

     by acids in marinades, 288–89

     by heat, 249, 271

     by lime juice, 249–51

     starting stocks with cold water to avoid, 304–5

Prune Plums, Italian, Poached, 154

prussic acid, 423

Pudding, Not-Very-Indian, 134–35

pungency, 332

pure (100%) olive oil, 179

purge, in meat packages, 277

pyrolysis, 356

quahogs, 256

quantum theory, 302

quick rice, 216

quivering, of liquids before simmering, 310

radiation, oven cooking by, 405

raffinose, 204

Ramirez, Natalie, 48

rancid butter, 173–74, 369

rancidity, of oils, 172–75

     after deep-fat frying, 174

     hydrolytic, 172, 173–74

     oxidative, 172, 173–74

raw cashews, 200–201

razor clams, 256–57

red cabbage, color of, 13–14

Red Onion–Parsley Relish, 416

red radishes, 336

redskin potatoes, 208

reduced-fat sour cream, 55

reduced iron, 124

reducing agents, 285

reduction reactions, 285

red wine, removing stains caused by, 47–50

refrigeration, to retard spoilage, 374

refrigerator

     butter keeper of, 372

     odors in, 368–71

     temperature of items placed in, 308

Relish, Red Onion–Parsley, 416

rennet, curdling of milk by, 135–36

respiration, in fruit, 152

restaurateur,
419

retrogradation, 210, 211

Rhizobium,
143

rhubarb

     oxalic acid in, 119–20

Rhubarb Coulis, 121

rice

     converted, 216

     eating with chopsticks, 213–15

     leftover, hardening of, 211–12

     parboiled, 216

     quick (instant), 216

     types of, 212–13

     in Ultimate Oven Paella, 258–60

rigatoni, 221, 222

ripening

     of fruits, 149–53, 156–57

     of olives, 185

roasts, shape of, cooking time and, 409–10

Roquefort, 77

rotini, 222

rotten eggs, 100–101

rubber, 405

     natural, 405

     silicone, 406–8

     synthetic, 405

rubbing alcohol, 22

russet potatoes, 208

safety

     of “cooking” fish in lime juice, 251

safety (
continued
)

     of disinfecting sprays/wipes, 116

     of garlic-infused oil, 346

     killing bacterial spores for, 311–12

     of liquid smoke, 355–56

     of raw fish, 244

     of smoke, 356

     of smoking foods, 323–24

Saint John’s bread, 441

S-alk(en)yl cysteine sulfoxides, in onions, 126

salmon

     color of, 239–41

     wild, blistered, 241

Salmonella enteritidis,
104

salt, 74

     meats cured with, 282

     sea, 362

     in vegetable cooking water, 112–13

     in water for boiling eggs, 94, 95

saltpeter, meats cured with, 282

salt pigs, 362–63

sandwich, chocolate, grilled, 444

saponins, in soybeans, 132–33

sarcolemmas,
270

saturated fatty acids, 169, 171

sauces

     finishing with butter, 82–83

     instant vanilla custard sauce (crème anglaise), 92–93

     Jack Daniel’s Rib-Ticklin’ Barbecue Sauce, 38

sausages, 354

sayraisin,
219–20

scallops

     color of, 263

     “dry,” 263

     FDA regulation of water content of, 263–64

     raw, 261–62

     skate sold as, 345–46

     spoilage of, 261

     types of, 262

     “wet” or processed, 263

Scampi Scampi, 267

schmaltz,
359

sciences bearing on cooking, xvi

Scoville, Wilbur, 335

Scoville Organoleptic Test, 335

Scoville units, 335, 338

scrapple, 280, 281

searing meat, 296–97

sea salt

     storing, 362

     water in, 74

sea scallops, 262

sec-butyl isothiocyanate, 336

Second Law of Thermodynamics, 390

seizing of chocolate, 435–39

self-rising flour, making, 219

self-tanning lotions, 8

semolina flour, 217

sequestrants, as preservatives, 375

seviche, 248–51

shape, of roasts, cooking time and, 409–10

Sherry, 28–31

Sherry-Browned Chicken with Garlic, 32

shiitake mushrooms, 419

short-grain rice, 212

Shout Oxy Power, to remove red wine stains, 49–50

shrimp

     color of, 264–65

     odor of, 265

     Scampi Scampi, 267–68

     terms for, 265–66

     in Ultimate Oven Paella, 258–60

silicon, 407

silicone kitchen equipment, 406–8

Siliqua patula,
256

silken tofu, 136–37

Silpat liners, 406–7

simmering, 309–10

     of stocks, 305–6

simple fruits, 148

sinigrin, 358

skate, 345–47

     sold as scallops, 345–46

skimmers, for stock, 306–7

skim milk, 52, 55

skimming stocks, 306–7

Skirt Steak Fajitas, Marinated, 294–95

slaked lime, 232

Slow Mediterranean Kitchen: Recipes for the
Passionate Cook, The
(Wolfert), 410–11

Smith, D. P., 291

smoke

     liquid, 353–56

     as preservative, 322