Read What the Traveller Saw Online
Authors: Eric Newby
What the Traveller Saw (23 page)
Old houses in Rouseau, Dominica, 1972.
Dominica, so named because Columbus discovered it on a Sunday, is the largest of the Windward Islands, and famous for its very British cricket matches, hot springs, boiling lakes and dense forests. In spite of its olde worlde charm, the capital Rouseau gave shelter to a small but vocal group which threatened to make it an impossible stopping place, to the horror of the local taxi drivers (‘Go home, whites!’ we were told three times in fifteen minutes), and so, after speaking to the Governor of Dominica who said he couldn’t do anything about it, we complied.
The Grand Hotel Oloffson, Port au Prince, Haiti.
At around 6. 30 every evening, César the barman began circulating the rum punches to those members of the literary and theater (sic) sets who described the place as ‘darling’; and to exquisite members of the local smart set, whose patrician countenances ranged in pigmentation from the jet black of Africa to the palest of sangmelees. And there was M. Aubelin Joliecoeur – the ‘Petit Pierre’ of Greene’s
Comedians
, much of which was set in the Oloffson – a tiny. posturing, white-silk-suited, chocolate-coloured journalist and PR man to the regime; here, there and everywhere, waving a little cane. calling people he had never met, including us, ‘darling’, and from time to time popping out to bully his chauffeur.
The Great Wall beyond the Nankhou Pass where it shoots up the mountainside to the east and west, in some places at an angle of forty-five degrees.
Great fountain in Palermo in Piazza Pretoria, designed by two Florentines down there on a visit, Michaelangelo Naccherino ( 1573) and Francesco Camilliani (1574–5). Its statuary is a popular target for vandals.
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Abd ul-Hamid II, Sultan, 77, 88
Abd ul-Medjid I, Sultan, 90
Achill Island, County Mayo, 42
Addis Ababa, 181
Admiral Karpfanger
, 16
Afghanis (currency), 34
Afghanistan, 33–4
Ajuda Palace, Belem, 110
Albert, Prince, 111
Alcântara Valley, 106
Alentejo, 109
Alès, 71
Alfama, 108–9
Alfonso XIII, King, 81
Algarve, 109
Alice Springs, 153–4, 158–9
All Hallows, Kent, 62
Allahabad, 59
Allenby, General, 77
Amman, 97
Angkor Wat, 115
Aqueducto das Águas Livres, 106
Aralsk, 37
Aranda tribe, 160
Arandora Star
, 27
Arcadie, 175
Arctic Circle, 126
Asturias, 81
Atatürk, 88
Aveiro, 113
Avignon, 71
Ayer’s Rock, 166–7
Bagheria, 196
Bairro Alto, 108
Baixa, 106
Baker, Revd Thomas, 150
Bali, 115–9
Bandjar
, village government, 118
Barcelos, 107
‘Baron Samedi’, 173, 176
Barra, 113
Barrymore, John, 66
Batum, 87
Beaverbrook, Lord, 66
Bébé Doc
see
Duvalier, Jean Paul
Beckford, William, 111
Beira Litoral, 109
Belem, 110
Bela Vista Hotel, Macau, 139
Bengal, Bay of, 55
Bergler, Ettore de Maria, 192
Berlin, Isaiah, (Sir), 37
Betapak-Dala Steppe, 36
Bhagirathi river, 57, 60
Bihar, 58
Binbirdirek, ‘The Thousand One Columns’, 89
Boggy Hole, 160, 162
Bon-Dieu-Bon, Le Grand Maître, 173–4
Boreal Forest, The Taiga, 121
Borobodur, 115
Bosphorus river, 85, 87
Bossu Comblamin, 174
Brahmaputra river, 58
Bremen
, 65
Briançon, 73–4
Brideshead Revisited
, (Evelyn Waugh), 65
Brueghel the elder, 62
Burgon, John, 98
Burckhardt, John Ludwig, 97, 102
Byrnes, Diane, 153
Byzantium, 86
Cain, 83
Candide
, 105
Cannibal Isles (Fiji), 149
Cantinho de S. Pedro, 111
Canton, 139, 181
Cap-Haïtien, 174, 177
Capella Palatina, 195
Cape Verde Islands, 108
Cares river, 83
Catania, 23, 193
Cathay Hotel
see
Peace Hotel
Causse Méjean, 73
Cefalu, 195
Chac, god of water, 145
Chac-Mools, stone monoliths, 145
Chaine de Belance, 177
Changning, 182
Chartered Bank, 183
Chechoo, Richard Angus, 126
Chichén Itzá, 145
Chingan, 182
Chou-En-Lai, Premier, 189
Christophe (Henri I of Haiti), 178
Coal Hill, 187
Cochrane, 121–2
Col de Finiels, 75
The Comedians
, (Graham Greene), 170–1, 175
Compagnie Générale Atlantique, 68
Constantine the Great, 90
Constantine, King of Greece, 191
Convento de Capuchos, near Sintra, 111
Cordier, Raymond, 70
Coromandel, 115
Costa Nova do Prado, 113
Cree Indians, 122
Croaghaun, Achill Island, 42
Cunard ships, 65
Curtin Springs, 166
Dagenham, 62
Dali, Salvador, 68
David, King, 77
tomb of, 79
Denpasar, 116
Dolmabahçe Palace, Istanbul, 88, 90
Dominica, 172
Douglass, Sir William, 46
Dumont, Margaret, 66
Dürrenmatt, Friedrich, 63
Duvalier, François ‘Papa Doc’, 169–70
Duvalier, Jean-Paul ‘Bébé Doc’, 173, 176
Duvalierville, 175
Dzhusaly, 36
Dzichibaltun, 145
Edirne, Thrace, 86
Eighty Mile Beach, 155
Erikson, Gustav, 15–16, 18
Fabre, 75
La Favorita, 196
Ferdinand of Saxe Coburg, 111
Fiji, 147–52
Fijians, 148
Finke river, 161
Florac, 72
Florio, Ignazio, 191
Fong Cheng, 184
Fontanellato, 23–5
Forbidden City, Peking, 186
Fort Dimanche, 170–1
Fort Portal, 93
France
, 65–6, 68
Franz Josef II, Austrian Emperor, 39
Fuento-Dé, 83
Gama, Vasco da, 110
Gandhi, Indira, 55
Ganesh, elephant god, 116
Ganges river, 55–60
Gangotri glacier, 57
Garbo, Greta, 66
Gardon d’Alès, 71
Gardon de Mialet, 72
Garhwal Himalayas, 57
Gate of Heavenly Peace, 186
Gate of Zion, 78–9
Gaur, 115
George Gill Range, 164–5
Gibson Desert, 155
Giles, Ernest, 162
Goa, 105
Goethe, Johann Wolfgang von, 197
Golden Gate, Jerusalem, 79
Golden Horn, 86–7
Gomukh, the Cow’s Mouth, 57
Gosse, William, 167
grain trade, ships engaged in, 16–17
Grand Hotel Oloffson, Port-au-Prince, 171
Grand Hotel Villa Igiea, 191
Gravina, Ferdinando Francesco, 197
Great Hall of the People, 189
Great Nore Tower, 61
Great Sandy Desert, 155
Great Victoria Desert, 155
Great Wall of China, 187–8
Grimes, Captain, 42
Haghia Eirene (the Divine Peace), 90
Haghia Sophia, 90
Haile Selassie, 181
Hakka tribe, 137
Hall of Friendship, Peking, 183
Hanchow (Hnag Zhou), 184, 190
Handbook for Travellers, 1878
, 86
Hans
, 19
Hardwar, 55, 57
Hayter, Sir William, 37
Henri I, of Haiti, 178
Hermannsburg Mission, 154, 161
Hints to Travellers, 1937
, 93
Hofburg, The, Vienna, 39
Hollingshead, Claire, 189
Honan, 188
Hong Kong, 133
and Shanghai Banking Corporation, 135
Club, 135
cricket club, 134
Hooghly river, 60
Ibrahim, Sultan, 86
Imperial Vaults, Vienna, 39
Indus river, 57
Inquisition, the, 105
Iron Market, Port-au-Prince, 172
Isle of Grain, Kent, 62
Istanbul, 85, 87–8
James Range, 154, 158
Jardine Matheson, 135, 183
Java, 115
Jebusites, 77
Jerusalem, 77
Jesuit missionaries to Peking, 186
John V, King of Portugal, 112
José I, King of Portugal, 106
Justinian I, Byzantine Emperor, 89
Kabul, 37
Kaisergruft (Imperial Vaults), Vienna, 39
Kapali Çarsisi, 89
Karaca Ahmet, 89
Karagalar Tasligi, quarters of the Black Eunuchs, 90
Kariye Camii, St Saviour in Chora, 90
Kenscoff Mountains, 171
kerekere
, Fijian custom, 148
Kiangsi, 181
Kikuyu tribe, 94
Konorak, 115
Kowloon, 133, 134
Kublai Khan, 186
Kumbh Mela, bathing ceremony, 57
Kunming, 181
Kurt
, 19
Kyoto, 128–30
L’Isle des Seins Nus
(Bali), 117
Lafond, 176
Land of the Yuca, 141
Laurana, Francesco, 195
Lawhill
, 19
Lawrence, T. E., 47
Le Caye Zombi, 174
Le Grand Disparu
see
Duvalier, François
Leibnitz, Gottfried Wilhelm, 105
Leon, 81
Le Pont de Montvert, 75
Limonade, 178
Lisbon, 105–10
Liulichang, shops of, 187
Lok Ma Chau, 137
Lombardo, Rosalia, 195
Long Peace Street, Peking, 184
Lower Hope, Isolation Hospital, 63
Macau, 138
Macaulay, Rose, 145
Macdonnell Ranges, 154, 157–8
McKay, Donald, 19
Mafia, 193
Mafra, 111
Magnasco, 111
Malmont, Forêt de, 71
Mandarin Hotel, Hong Kong, 135–6
Mandragoa, 107
Manila, 133
Mao Tse-tung, 181
Marcel Torrens Palm Court Orchestra, 66
Maria II, Queen of Portugal, 111
Mariehamn, 15–16
Marmara, Sea of, 85–6
Marx Brothers, 66
Mau Mau, 94
Mayans, 141–2
Mayerling
see
Rudolph
Mehmet III, 91
Meng Thien, 188
Mercato Ortofrutticolo, 193
Merida, 141
Messina, Antonello da, 195
Mestizos, 142
Mexico City, 141
Mille, Cecil B. de, 143
Ming emperor, hanged himself on Coal Hill, 187
Ming tombs, 188
Mirals river, 73
Missionaries to Fiji, 150
Monfalcone, 33
Monreale Cathedral, 195
Monte Pellegrino, 191
Mont Lozère, 74–5
Montefiore, Sir Moses, 78
Montejo, Don Francesco de, 141
Moose Factory Island, 121, 126
Moose river, 121, 126
Moosonee, 126
Moscow, 37–8
Moses, 167
Moshulu
, 15–16, 18–20
Mottram, Lady Julia, 65
Mount Ayers, 167
Mount Corner, 166
Mount of Olives, 79
Mount Zion, 78
Mountains of the Moon Hotel, Uganda, 93
Murad III, 91
Nairobi, 94
Namatjira, Albert, 161
Nankhou Pass, 187
Nationalities Cultural Palace, Peking, 186
Nazaré, 112
Nehru, Jawarhalal, 55, 115
New Jerusalem, 77
New Territories, 133
Nicholson, Ben, 129
Nightingale, Florence, 88
North British Hotel, Edinburgh, 66
Northern Territory, 154
North French river, 125
Nyeri, 94
Obidos, Portugal, 112
Obin, Philomée, 178
Observatory, Peking, 186
Ogoun Feraile, God of War, 174
Oleynik, Mr, 34
Orlando, Leoluca, 193